2011 Sprinter won't shut off!!!

2011 Sprinter won't shut off!!! (Update…)

I just went out to start my 2011 sprinter… has approx… 60,000 miles.. 170" high roof.

When I started it, it sounded like the "starter"??? was stuck and the engine was running too!

Turned the key to shut the engine off, which it did, took the key completely out of the ignition and the "sound of something running was… still running"!

Put the key in and turned it one click clock wise and the engine starts up(which it shouldn't!) and the "sound" possibly the starter, kept running… with the freakin engine! :thumb down:

Every time I turned the engine off the "sound" of something running continued!

So I left the damn thing running engine and all... Arrrr!

Ran up here to the office to search this site and nothing… after 10 mins or so I went to see if it had stopped or the entire Mercedes had burst into flames… and the engine was still running but no "sound" besides the engine.

So I shut it off…and the world went quiet... As it should when you turn a freaking engine off! Now, thinking whatever was "stuck" had free'd itself and knowing I had to move it... I started it up and the entire process repeated…

Finally got everything shut down and I can smell "electrical smoke"… I have 3 messages and an "ESP"(I think?) error. I'm too afraid to even put the damn key near the ignition!!! :thumb down:

So I guess I will get her towed in the morning.. again! :thumb down:

Anyone know what the f is going on?

Thanks…

After some research on other diesel forums... Possibly the "fuel pump selenoid shut off"?

Slicebo
What i would look for is a bad crimp on the starter cable at the starter end, when these get really hot they can melt the insulation on the wire from the start key. so jf this has happened you can put some split sleaving over the wires until you can get a new wire, Eric.

something similar happened to me, where it wouldn't shut down. I had to pull the electrical disconnect next to the fuel pedal. When I reconnected it and restarted it, it did the same thing.

I researched, fretted, worried and then restarted it the following day and nothing bad has happened since that isolated event.

Wish I knew-cross your fingers and hope it doesn't happen again is all I can say. That and check for oil that may have dripped down onto the starter.

I would bet money that the starter solenoid/bendix unit was somehow locked on and would not disengage from the flywheel.

If correct, off the top of my pointy head at least two things could cause the fire. One would be that the solenoid overheated. The other is that the stuck and rotating at engine flywheel speed starter burned. It is not designed for continuous or high speed operation and will not last long under that service. Cables may have burned also.

I would have used the NCV3 driver area battery disconnect in hopes that it would isolate the battery from the faulty start circuit.

Again, if I'm correct, at the least you will likely need to replace the starter. You may also have burned heavy cables. Have someone check the flywheel ring gear because the teeth may have damaged.

vic

Thanks for your reply guys!!! She's on a flatbed heading across town to my mechanics right now…

Aqua Puttana said:

I would bet money that the starter solenoid/bendix unit was somehow locked on and would not disengage from the flywheel.

If correct, off the top of my pointy head at least two things could cause the fire. One would be that the solenoid overheated. The other is that the stuck and rotating at engine flywheel speed starter burned. It is not designed for continuous or high speed operation and will not last long under that service. Cables may have burned also.

I would have used the NCV3 driver area battery disconnect in hopes that it would isolate the battery from the faulty start circuit.

Again, if I'm correct, at the least you will likely need to replace the starter. You may also have burned heavy cables. Have someone check the flywheel ring gear because the teeth may have damaged.

vic

Click to expand...

Thanks Vic…

Iam already counting on a new starter and some cables…

I will ask my mechanic if can check the flywheel… thanks for the heads up! Speaking of up… at least it didn't go UP in SMOKE!!! :thumb down:

One last question… where is the "driver battery disconnect"? I can also search that local as well…

Cheers and Thanks again!!!

Right behind the accelerator pedal, a quick disconnect clip on the cable, on the fire wall, above your foot.

Icarus

icarus said:

Right behind the accelerator pedal, a quick disconnect clip on the cable, on the fire wall, above your foot.

Icarus

Click to expand...

Thanks for your help… Very much appreciated!

2011 might have a warantee claim? Especially if it is a dangerous situation, even if it is technically out of warrantee.

Icarus

icarus said:

2011 might have a warantee claim? Especially if it is a dangerous situation, even if it is technically out of warrantee.

Icarus

Click to expand...

Oh man… never thought of that and it went over to my mechanic this morning…

I guess I should of phoned up the service dept at the dealership???

Thanks again for the solid info!

Re: 2011 Sprinter won't shut off!!! Update...

Yep, the starter is shot and yep… they are quite expensive! My mechanic suggested remanufacturing mine.. (600.00).

Some wiring has burned up and perhaps that was the cause, I don't know.
So the wires are being rerouted a little and some additional protection/shrink wrap is being added.

She will be ready and back on the road mañana…

Thanks for the help guys!!!

I don't know where your mechanic gets his parts, or what his markup is, but Euro parts has new OEM starters for under $300! I would also consider what the fault was before I risk burning up a new starter! Wiring, relay, stuck solenoid, electronics etc. Simply replacing the starter and the burnt wire may fix the symptom, but may not fix the undying cause.

Icarus

icarus said:

I don't know where your mechanic gets his parts, or what his markup is, but Euro parts has new OEM starters for under $300! I would also consider what the fault was before I risk burning up a new starter! Wiring, relay, stuck solenoid, electronics etc. Simply replacing the starter and the burnt wire may fix the symptom, but may not fix the undying cause.

Icarus

Click to expand...

That's kinda why I posted the price… I did some research and thought I found starters cheaper…

I will ask him what he thinks caused it… he told me he checked this and that out… I will dig deeper..

Thanks for the $ heads up!

icarus said:

I don't know where your mechanic gets his parts, or what his markup is, but Euro parts has new OEM starters for under $300! I would also consider what the fault was before I risk burning up a new starter! Wiring, relay, stuck solenoid, electronics etc. Simply replacing the starter and the burnt wire may fix the symptom, but may not fix the undying cause.

Icarus

Click to expand...

Is the site just euro parts?

or...
euro parts San Diego? 229.88 for the Bosch!!! Nice price!!!

or...
Euro parts direct?… says something to the effect of… "sorry no matching part found"…

I'm guessing euro-parts sd… I'm gonna tell him about this!!!

Thanks again!

www.europarts-sd.com is a popular vendor among members of this forum.

-Jon

icarus said:

I don't know where your mechanic gets his parts, or what his markup is, but Euro parts has new OEM starters for under $300! I would also consider what the fault was before I risk burning up a new starter! Wiring, relay, stuck solenoid, electronics etc. Simply replacing the starter and the burnt wire may fix the symptom, but may not fix the undying cause.

Icarus

Click to expand...

+1

Burned wires. Always subject to failure analysis interpretation. Chicken or the egg...


Don't forget to have the gear ring inspected. The engine should be completely rotated at least once so every tooth is looked at.

Iu still may not be too late for warranty. Thank/pay him for his time and get it to the dealership.

vic

jdcaples said:

www.europarts-sd.com is a popular vendor among members of this forum.

-Jon

Click to expand...

Thanks!

Aqua Puttana said:

+1

Burned wires. Always subject to failure analysis interpretation. Chicken or the egg...


Don't forget to have the gear ring inspected. The engine should be completely rotated at least once so every tooth is looked at.

Iu still may not be too late for warranty. Thank/pay him for his time and get it to the dealership.

vic

Click to expand...

Thanks Vic! I will get it in this afternoon after I pick her up or tomorrow, if I can…

Hello everyone. I'm new to posting here, but I've been reading great advice here for the past year or so after I bought my 2011 170" High roof (used).

I've got about 53,000 miles on mine, and the EXACT same thing happened to me about an hour ago. The only diffence was in my reaction (probably more panicked) - mainly because I didn't have ANY tools at hand, which for me is a serious rarity! Anyhow, in less than 2 mins the cranking battery ran out of juice and everything went back to blessed silence.
Now the key isn't working, which I'm not surprised at. But I can't even turn it to put the gear selector in Neutral to push the beasty back a few feet.

Before trying to jump start it, I decided to come in here and check if there was a solution to this problem - or any info at all.
It is a bit interesting that this happened to the same year/make/model at around the same mileage.

I really do love my van, quirks and all. but I'm starting to feel like we need to see other people - or at least see a good mechanic/counselor !

Any help / advice would be appreciated ten-fold!

Regards,
- Kelly