PDA

View Full Version : How much oil should I b using per 500 miles


frathouse
03-13-2014, 10:34 PM
My 08 diesel with 525,000 miles runs great, smokes a little while warming up. I start her up and let her idle for 10 minutes before I get going. The first quarter mile theres a bit of blue smoke behind me and a little slow shifting. But after that it looks good behind me all day. I've only had my van about 1300 miles but oil consumption seems to be almost a quart every 150 miles. I could be a little off on my calculations but not much. Once I got her home I changed the oil and today I've just finished off my first 4 quart jug of Rotella. At this rate I'll never need to do a full oil change,, just a new oil filter every 10,000 miles.

6cyclone6
03-13-2014, 11:23 PM
That is excessive consumption. 1 quart every 1500 miles is excessive as well. Is it leaking as well, or just burning it?

frathouse
03-13-2014, 11:32 PM
There isn't a puddle under it, but then again I don't let it run in one spot for very long. The motor does have a fair amount of oil on it, I can't see where it is leaking from, maybe valve cover gaskets? looks like about an equal amount of leakage on both sides of the motor. Not really any puddle where it sits at night in my shed, so I'm guessing its only leaking while running. I thought maybe the last owner may have spilled a lot of oil while adding more but its starting to look like a leak somewhere. Any common leaky spots on this motor I need to scrutinize?

frathouse
03-13-2014, 11:36 PM
Now that I think about it I do remember seeing quite a few dark brown spots in the snow in my driveway where I would do a 3 point turn to get it backed into my shed. I just shrugged it off as dirty slushy snow falling off my van. Maybe it was oil, I should probably don my face shield and a light and lay under it for a bit while its running.

robbin
03-14-2014, 12:27 AM
I have a 2004 and don't add any oil between 10,000 mile changes.

frathouse
03-14-2014, 12:32 AM
Thanks robbin but that's not exactly useful info. Two different engines and we don't know your miles. Please help by addressing my questions. Thanks again.

dodger413
03-14-2014, 12:56 AM
my 2008 has 28000 miles. it burns no oil. never add any between oil changes.

i had to add 1 quart before 1st oil change when new. never added any between oil changes since.

you oil consumption IS excessive. by far.

icarus
03-14-2014, 01:08 AM
Warming it up by idling an '08 is a bad idea for a number of reasons. Consider, firing up, and driving gently for the first few miles.

Do an oil analasis, and do a exhaust gas test. Sounds like you are getting close to needing a rebuild.

Icarus

dnshaf
03-14-2014, 01:15 AM
You might check the oil cooler, its under the fuel filter and oil would leak off the back of the motor onto the tranny, there are weep holes it goes into. Does it run hot? or does it throw codes? I would be interested in what you find.
Dan

chads
03-14-2014, 01:18 AM
I had a old ford gas van that ate oil like that or worse about a qt. 30 to 35 miles.
It would smoke really heavy at stop signs.
I would have to add a quart every day after work and maybe two once a week.
After 3 weeks I started to put used oil in it as the oil was getting expensive.
I found that the holes going back to the oil pan thru the block from the heads were plugged with sludge.
I pulled the valve covers and ran a rod thru them and replaced the valve seals not sure if that is the correct name and the heavy smoke stopped.
After that I added a quart of oil about every 4 tanks of gas.
I drove it about a year after that and it always used about the same amount of oil till I got rid of it.

Someone said to run a qt of tranny fluid to clean engine out a bit. I guess the sludge let loose a little too fast and it plugged the oil return ports for me.
I later found changing the oil every couple weeks on a dirty engine is pretty good to get them cleaned up.

Some people say that the restore additive will help a worn engine but not sure if it does.
On these engines I would think the turbo oil seal is bad.
We had that problem on some tractors and they would go thru a couple gallons a day and smoke a lot till we could get them in to get fixed.

Chad

sailquik
03-14-2014, 01:41 AM
frathouse,
First, why are you using Rotella oil....which weight Rotella and which formula Rotella.
Is it full synthetic?
Yes, you have a major oil leak somewhere. I've had 4 OM-642's and never added even on drop of
Mobil 1 ESP 5w-40 Formula M full synthetic between the 10,000 mile oil change intervals.
Does the Rotella oil you are using list Mercedes Benz Approval # 229.51 (Low SPAsh engine oil for use on diesels with
particulate filters.
As suggested your are not doing you engine any favor by letting it idle to warm up.
Why....because it's a diesel and diesels really don't create any internal heat at idle.
This causes lots of sludgy deposits on the cold internal engine components.
They were designed (and so was your engine management system) for you to get in, turn the key to the 2nd
position (where all the dash lights come on) and wait for the glow plug light to extinguish (takes < 30 seconds, even
@ 0 deg. F and below) then turn the key to engage the starter.
The engine will idle @ about twice the normal hot idle RPM (somewhere ~ 1500 RPM) and it will quickly settle down to
near the hot idle RPM of 680.
Your engine is designed and your engine management is tuned so that you simply drive away at this point.
Don't hammer anything, but you don't have to drive it like there's an egg under your foot on throttle either.
Just drive normally and it will warm up very quickly.
The transmission will delay your upshifts to ~2800 RPM...it's designed to do this to get heat in the engine quickly to
reduce your cold start emissions profile.
Also as suggested, for it to leak that badly, one of the first places to look is the O'ring seal/gasket (it's a very funny looking
tandem O'ring from what I've seen) under the oil cooler on the LH side of your engine.
If it leaks, you get a lot of oil running off the outside of our engine.
As suggested, might be time to get your codes read, and have the engine's compression checked.
You may have damaged it significantly by leaving it idling when cold.
Hope this helps,
Roger

frathouse
03-14-2014, 02:11 AM
Hey dodger you do mean 280,000 miles, correct? 28k seems low for an 08. Thanks, I appreciate the input. I'm curious to see what other 3.0 engines are using.

frathouse
03-14-2014, 02:16 AM
dnshaf, it does have some codes and check engine light stays on as does the radiator light. It is full of antifreeze. What temp would hot be? There isn't a water temp gauge. I'll crawl under and check the oil cooler and write down the codes. Thanks.

dodger413
03-14-2014, 02:21 AM
28,000 miles.............did i stutter ?

frathouse
03-14-2014, 02:23 AM
Chad, not sure about putting additives/tranny fluid down the pipe, but at the rate its consuming what can it hurt? I've replaced the air seals on both sides of the turbo but didn't even thing about inspecting the oil seal. When I changed the orange air seal I noticed the little impeller fan on the turbo had a bunch of little nicks in the blades. Would the grit which caused the blades to become worn have damaged the turbo oil seal? Thanks

sailquik
03-14-2014, 02:33 AM
frathouse,
The oil cooler is up on the top of the LH bank of 3 cylinders.
Roger

frathouse
03-14-2014, 02:35 AM
dodger, n n n no, but most people wouldn't think anything with only 28k would use a drop of oil anyway so why do I need to know that since you've changed oil 3 times you haven't needed to add any? At 4700 miles a year that diesel premium will pay for itself in a blistering 40 years. Good choice. Thanks

dnshaf
03-14-2014, 02:37 AM
I would say hot is in the 230-250 range, and as Roger stated the orings on the oil cooler look like an 8 and there 2 of them, you cant see the oil cooler unless you strip the top down, as far as I know. If your tranny sides are wet with oil and the tranny pan, wipe them down and take it for a nice drive, if its the cooler it will be wet again where you wiped it off. There is a specific "drain area" that comes off the driver side of the tranny housing, so look at that left side especially. Don't know if someone has posted any photos of that but I would look into it. If the coolant light tells you your coolant is low and you can see that it is not, then I would check the float in the reservoir, sometimes they stick. if you get a Scan Gauge or something like it you could read codes and watch the temp.
Dan

chads
03-14-2014, 02:44 AM
Yeah I did the tranny fluid on advise from a mechanic. Not sure if it will generally work but if you try it I would think a 1/4 or 1/2 qt would be enough to start.
I have heard of guys using kerosene too but not sure how that would turn out.
If you have a leak it would be better to fix the leak before putting additives in there.
On the turbo seal I am not sure what causes failure I'm thinking heat, you may ask around to see if overheating caused the turbo damage.
Also If you use the wrong oil it can sludge up and the turbo does not get enough oil. I am thinking it will overheat and mess up stuff. I would check to see if the oil is up to spec.
Not sure here at all but if some of the emission stuff if clogged or broken could that effect oil consumption?
If you take the dipstick out when it's running and get a lot of blow by or oil coming out you may have ring or piston problem.
Chad

frathouse
03-14-2014, 02:48 AM
Roger thanks for the great input. I have only had the van a few weeks so I probably haven't damaged it much. I got it with 523,750 miles and have no history on it other than a one owner delivery van. I didn't know that about first A.M. driving and thought I was being hard on it revving it up to 2600 to get it to shift. No more idling in the morning, got it. Also the more I work on the van the more I learn about the previous owner. I took off the DPF cause I wanted to retune my motor and do away with it.. The DPF already had a large hole beat down through the middle of it. So I guess the previous owner, fleet type, has learned its just cheaper maybe when the DPF gets clogged to beat the guts out of it. Again I have no history on it so the DPF may have been gutted a few hundred thousand miles ago. I am using the regular Rotella triple T oil cause that's what was in a jug between the front seats when I bought it and since I discovered the gutted DPF I figured it no longer mattered. The o ring will be the first thing I look at, Thanks.

frathouse
03-14-2014, 02:53 AM
Roger, yes the drivers side was especially oily. So much so that I removed my windshield washer reservoir in order to scrub/ degrease it and everything behind it. I think we're getting warmer, thanks. Brian

sailquik
03-14-2014, 03:04 AM
Brian,
As suggested, you need to remove the plastic air boxes and stuff off the top of the engine, then you will see the oil cooler a little behind
the middle of the LH Valve cover behind/sort of underneath the OM-642 V6 Turbo Resonator.
Do some searches on NCV3 oil cooler....there are photos of where it is, descriptions of how to get too it, and a few photos of what the
figure 8 seal looks like.
I'd buy the seal at a MB dealer as it's been upgraded a few times and they will have all the bulletins as to what the latest and best
seal is.
Take you VIN # as they will need to use it to get you the correct part!
Hope this helps,
Roger

frathouse
03-14-2014, 03:04 AM
I appreciate all the useful input I've received so far, this is my first diesel. If it had been a gasser I would have immediately realized the consumption was excessive. I just thought at first when 'they' said oil burner, they meant it. But now it is making more sense and it must be a leaker. Thanks, Brian

icarus
03-14-2014, 03:09 AM
Just one persons opinion, but I think "flushing" an engine with ATF or Kerosene or whqt ever is a really bad idea. IMHO all you do is dislodge sludge that then travels through the oil galleys plugging them up, scoring bearings etc. I know of several people who flushed engines only to have them fail quite soon afterward.

To me, if I want to clean it up, I will remove the oil own and clean it, remove the valve covers and clean the heads, but I would never do a crankcase flush.

Of course my advice is worth EXACLTY what you pay for it. I also concur with Rodger that Rotella is the wrong oil to use, DPF or no DPF.

Icarus

frathouse
03-14-2014, 03:26 AM
I agree, I want to isolate all leaks before trying to cleanse the motors interior. I also want to stop the leaking before pouring liquid gold down the pipe. But yes one step at a time I will likely remove valve covers and clean and replace gaskets before flushing. I thought flushing with tranny fluid was more for use with an old motor which had sat for years anyway, but I will do it before tearing down my motor and putting in rings. Thanks, Brian

chads
03-14-2014, 01:22 PM
I don't want to steer you wrong, I included the info on the atf fluid to show you what happened to me. The motor in question was an old van that had sat for a while prior to my getting it.


I second the fix the leaks before doing anything else idea.
I also recommend not using the atf at all.
Pulling the valve covers is a much more effective way to clean it out.
There is no MAGIC in a bottle when it comes to cars and trucks.

Sounds like you have found at least one of the leaks so I would start there.
Good luck,
Chad

ECU
03-14-2014, 02:18 PM
Leakage out of the 'valve cover' would be diesel fuel out of the Injectors.

wmlog
03-14-2014, 04:04 PM
It certainly sounds like you are leaking oil somewhere -

I would power wash the engine and then look for oil leaks.

I've got 450,000 on my 2008 and recently needed to change the o-ring seals on my oil cooler.

I was consuming some oil but couldn't find any leaks, so I suspected that I was burning some oil, although I had no indication that I was. The oil cooler has double o-ring seals that harden and take a set after some time. The pressurized oil leaks out, and pools on the top of the engine. I suppose it then finds its' way off the top of the engine and into the passing air currents when the vehicle is being driven, but I had no oil accumulation on the underside of my vehicle. I discovered my leaks when I put my Sprinter up on ramps (front only) to change my oil. The pooled oil then ran to the back of the engine where there is a weep hole in the left rear corner. The oil ran down the back of the engine above and behind the starter.

Take it apart and replace the oil cooler o-ring seals and any other seals or gaskets you come across; i.e., the orange turbocharger gasket. New seals and gaskets are cheaper than break-downs. While you are there, check out the swirl valve actuator linkage looseness. When new, the linkage it tight. You will find wear, but that is another expensive repair to evaluate.

6cyclone6
03-14-2014, 10:20 PM
At that rate of oil loss I would also suspect the oil cooler. It can leak pressurized oil. The answer I received from MB engineering is "The oil consumption of the OM642 is approx. 0.04l to 0.1l/1000km or 0.04 qt to 0.1 qt for 625 miles." or in non German half to full quart ~ 6k miles or so.

Aqua Puttana
03-14-2014, 11:15 PM
Normally I would have comments on this subject, but I own a T1N. Based upon some previous replies my guess is that my input apparently wouln't be relevant or appreciated.

Have fun.

vic

smiller
03-15-2014, 12:17 AM
Reading the OP I'm amazed enough that the engine has 535,000 mikes on it and still runs well. Regarding the oil consumption, if you're only seeing a little smoke and only when cold then I'd expect some kind of external leak. An internal leak of that magnitude (quart per 150 miles) would generate a lot of exhaust smoke.

frathouse
03-19-2014, 07:34 PM
I got my oil cooler O rings in the mail and set out to replace them. I'm having a hard time identifying the oil cooler itself. One post says its on top of the LH cylinder bank. What is below the fuel filter? Can someone tell me what all I need to remove to replace the O rings? Thanks

6cyclone6
03-19-2014, 09:30 PM
It is a pretty involved repair. If I remember correctly you must remove the turbo to get it out. It is in the V between the cylinder heads.

Sprinter SS
03-19-2014, 10:01 PM
Dude, that oil cooler is in the belly of the beast. I saw when someone suggested it is on top of the LH head they were wrong, that is the egr cooler. If you pull the fuel filter out you will see it down in the valley between the heads. Dealer calls for 9.5hrs labor to do the job, it is involved and requires intake manifold removal as well.

That's funny about your DPF being "performance enhanced"..!

T.J.T
03-20-2014, 12:03 AM
My 2008 with 180,000 km uses no oil between changes.

frathouse
03-20-2014, 12:38 AM
yeah I was totally confused about it being 'on top', just from looking around I could tell it was on bottom of intake. I finally called the dealer after a 6 pack and they confirmed it. He said ' get a 30 pack and take off the turbo and the intake'. That 10 $ part is starting to look like a 500 $ repair. Oh well I got a lot off tonight, maybe finish on Friday. But I'm pretty sure its contributing to my oil usage as I can see a lot of oil down in the valley. Plus now it makes sense as to why when I replaced all the glowplugs the passenger side came out dry and the drivers side came out in a thick, black slick of oil.

frathouse
03-20-2014, 12:41 AM
My dpf is gutted and the ECM tuned to delete regens, should I block off the EGR as well somehow??

Sprinter SS
03-20-2014, 02:37 AM
Better keep that egr, it's volume of exhaust gas is needed for mass airflow calculations. Just clean it up.

Take some pics, you are going deep. Way more than a 500 repair, at the dealer it would be a two grand repair.

Make sure you use new gaskets...

frathouse
03-20-2014, 03:16 AM
I ordered new gaskets for the turbo and intake today. Saving 2 grand, time to celebrate! Can't b any more challenging than a 911 rebuild.

dnshaf
03-20-2014, 05:17 AM
I ordered new gaskets for the turbo and intake today. Saving 2 grand, time to celebrate! Can't b any more challenging than a 911 rebuild.

Be sure to check the arm linkage from the Inlet Actuator on the Intakes, if there is play it will result in the butterfly's not opening and closing properly, thus it will throw a code. With that many miles I would replace the intake manifolds and a new oil cooler. The cooler runs $160 and the intakes about $1300 for the pair and the comes with a new actuator. Europarts SD has all the parts you need. Also the intakes come off together, be careful to hold them carefully when you remove them. The crossover will hold them fairly well but can come loose. I have a set of Intake Manifolds that has about 1/8" of play on the arms and that was enough to throw a code. Be sure to replace the square clips that hold the actuator arms too. It's just not worth doing all that work all over again. I've heard of a kit to rebuild them but I have yet to see one. Anyone else know where to find a kit? Hope this helps, Dan[ATTACH]58565[/AT
TACH]

dnshaf
03-20-2014, 05:33 AM
Here's what the new ones look like.

icarus
03-20-2014, 06:08 AM
911s were not too hard to build! Just getting the cam chains timed was a pain on the old ones.

Icarus

72chevy4x4
03-20-2014, 12:07 PM
has anyone addressed the smoke upon pulling away for the first 1/4 mile? I thought "blue smoke" was attributed to rich gas in the supply-not applicable here. Does excess diesel cause the same thing? Is this smoke only on pulling away on cold mornings or also on warm days?

frathouse
03-20-2014, 12:40 PM
I have yet to own this van on anything close to a warm day. It seems like it only smokes on the first warmup of the day. Occasionally at a long stop light it will smoke when I pull away, but I'm starting to think that is due to oil building up on top of my motor then spilling over the back onto the exhaust when I pull away. The color is blueish/blackish. Also I'm getting diesel on top of the fuel filter. I replaced the filter and all three fuel lines attached to it but its still happening. Guess I need to also replace the O ring on that sensor which goes down into the filter.

Trayscott
03-20-2014, 02:01 PM
Just LOL. Sorry so many responded to help with the frathouse attitude.

Trayscott
03-20-2014, 02:03 PM
Oh and 187,900 on my 2008, NO oil consumption and a quart every 150 would be a really obvious problem!

frathouse
03-20-2014, 03:00 PM
That's fantastic trayscott. Glad to hear your numbers, hopefully this thread and what we learn on it will be useful to you as well when you reach 500k miles and start going through excessive oil. Thanks for the input

ECU
03-20-2014, 03:19 PM
My brother has a fleet. Over half of the sprinters are over 500,000 and still going strong. I posted a picture of a motor teardown at 520,000. There was still honing on the cylinder walls.
http://sprinter-source.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=49978&d=1359605517

frathouse
03-21-2014, 12:44 PM
Fun day yesterday. Got the turbo and intake off. Turbo came off a lot easier once I removed the rear crossmember and tilted the engine/trans up/down and disconnected the DPF. There is a ton of play in the butterfly linkage. One in particular opens at a rate of maybe 20 degrees less than the others because the round socket was so worn.

dnshaf
03-21-2014, 05:27 PM
Fun day yesterday. Got the turbo and intake off. Turbo came off a lot easier once I removed the rear crossmember and tilted the engine/trans up/down and disconnected the DPF. There is a ton of play in the butterfly linkage. One in particular opens at a rate of maybe 20 degrees less than the others because the round socket was so worn.

I would expect that, given the mileage. Still no word on a rebuild kit? Why MB made these in plastic??? How much buildup do you have inside the intakes?? Like I said, Europarts SD.
Dan

frathouse
03-22-2014, 01:20 AM
Still no option for a rebuild kit, got my intakes ordered today. I also pulled apart that oil separator thing. The rubber diaphragm was hard and had about a 3/4" slit in it so got one of those also. If some of those butterflies aren't opening all the way then what's happening to the extra air not being allowed into the chamber? Is it possible that some fumes are being forced back out through the intake system? When I drive with my windows down I get fumes in the cab so I thought maybe some fumes were floating around under the hood. I already fixed the seal for my cabin air filter and that stopped most of the fumes getting in with the heat on. Just now only when the window goes down I get fumes inside. The buildup wasn't too bad, more than I want to see but I expected more with 500k.

dnshaf
03-22-2014, 02:06 AM
I would think that the fumes would be exhaust side related (turbo area)

Sprinter SS
03-22-2014, 03:42 AM
Still no option for a rebuild kit, got my intakes ordered today. I also pulled apart that oil separator thing. The rubber diaphragm was hard and had about a 3/4" slit in it so got one of those also. If some of those butterflies aren't opening all the way then what's happening to the extra air not being allowed into the chamber? Is it possible that some fumes are being forced back out through the intake system? When I drive with my windows down I get fumes in the cab so I thought maybe some fumes were floating around under the hood. I already fixed the seal for my cabin air filter and that stopped most of the fumes getting in with the heat on. Just now only when the window goes down I get fumes inside. The buildup wasn't too bad, more than I want to see but I expected more with 500k.

Frat house, you are going to be in good shape when you are all done. The "separator " you mentioned was probably a large factor in your consumption. If the rubber is torn or hardened it will allow oil mist in large slugs to intake. Was the egr gummed up?

frathouse
03-22-2014, 12:40 PM
Yeah a lot of soot inside EGR. Also the big pipe which has a large butterfly at the bottom had a ton of soot from where it entered the intakes back down about 8". Still working on getting it all apart and clean. I think I'll poke my bore scope down into the glowplug holes and take some pics down in there. And also down the intake ports.

frathouse
03-22-2014, 11:45 PM
Got my apart today. The bottom where there is 3 blades which rotate to open looked as if they had not opened in a couple hundred thousand miles. There was so much soot on it that when I moved it with my screwdriver it scraped off a layer of soot on the housing under the blades. Also the cooler itself was almost completely blocked off. There was only a spot the size of a nickel in the middle that wasn't clogged. The van basically ran fine as far as I could tell before I took everything apart. Since I had my ECM tuned to delete regens and EGR is there any need to even replace those parts? They look as though they have been inoperable for some time anyway. Would not using a full synthetic oil for a few hundred thousand miles contribute to that much soot buildup? Thanks

Sprinter SS
03-23-2014, 03:46 AM
Frat house, I think the non synthetic could cause additional soot, but that leaky demister/separator probably was the culprit along with egr blockage. Was the oil cooler seals appear to be leaking? Are they notably smaller in diameter?

Are your new seals a purple color?

frathouse
03-23-2014, 02:55 PM
I could see a pool of oil down in the valley before I started taking off the turbo. The old seals are orange, the new ones purple. Not any difference in diameter but the old ones are thinner/flattened and hard.

dnshaf
04-05-2014, 01:06 AM
Any word on your current oil consumption? Did your repairs reduce it?

frathouse
04-12-2014, 02:38 AM
So I put on a new oil separator thing with the brittle bladder, blocked off my egr, ripped out my swirl valvles with pliers,... I wanted to try that before spendin 1300 replacing them,,... new oil cooler with O rings, and another tune to delete the swirl valves and stuff... Just took it out for about a 300 mile drive this week and I was very pleased with the performance until the oil light came back on. So instead of 1 quart per 200 miles I am now at 1 quart per 300 miles. Used Sprinter anyone? Cheap.. I have a little oil in my turbo tube between the turbo and resonator.. Is the turbo using all the oil, or the rings??? I don't see much smoke in my mirrors, but I did have someone follow me and they said I stunk. Am I down to putting in new rings? Whats that cost,, $500, for parts? My fuel economy is around 23, which I like until I figure in the oil consumption. It doesn't have a puddle under it in the garage, any ideas? I love the way this thing drives compared to driving the promaster, plenty of power and a much more comfy driving position, but im bout ready to drop some serious cash on a new ride.

frathouse
04-19-2014, 01:29 PM
So I finally drove my van at night. Took it on about a 500 mile trip. Now I never noticed much smoke behind me during the day, but at night I do now see smoke in my mirror from the headlights of the poor, choking people behind me. Not so much at cruising speed but more so upon acceleration. Is the turbo possibly the culprit? The rings, or something else? What would be a good test to perform next to pinpoint it? Thanks

Aqua Puttana
04-19-2014, 02:21 PM
With the proper MB scan tool there is a fairly easy, but somewhat coarse test routine for compression using cranking speed. That may give an idea if the compression on a cylinder(s) is low as compared to the others.

vic

hiteck
06-28-2014, 06:30 AM
Did you ever get that oil problem fixed ..

frathouse
08-26-2014, 10:45 PM
I sort of got the oil problem fixed, I just decided to quit worrying about it. Problem solved! I just go on down to Tractor Supply and purchase 5 gallon buckets of oil for $45 and keep filling the engine. My van is now super reliable, every time I hit the key she takes right off. I've made three, 2,000+ mile road trips this summer and its not given me one problem. I take a 5 gallon bucket and a 2.5 gallon jug, both full, and hit the road. Van gets 20 mpg if I drive 60 mph or 75 mph. It does burn through the oil faster at higher speeds I noticed. I've decided to drive it until it breaks or smokes so bad I can't see the car behind me. Then I'll Ebay whats left for $1 and buy a newer van. I just hit 540,000 miles on my last trip.

Sprinter SS
08-28-2014, 02:29 AM
This post had me cracking up...awesome on so many levels!

So, how long does it take to go thru a 5 gallon bucket of oil!!!
That's a whole new mindset of consumption!

frathouse
08-28-2014, 03:05 PM
2000 miles down the interstate uses between 6 and 7 gallons, around 75 miles/quart. Going easy on it back and forth to town/in town I get at least 150 miles/quart. What sucks on the interstate is when the oil low light comes on the cruise control quits working properly. I suppose the van is just trying to make me uncomfortable so I pull over and fill her up again. Usually pull over around half tank of fuel to fill up the oil, then with a couple fuel bars left I fill the fuel and oil again. Sometimes I just overfill by a couple quarts so I can drive longer. That causes a oil high light to come on which also messes up the cruise control, but only for about 75 miles.

Sprinter SS
08-28-2014, 03:22 PM
Well, truly you never need to change the oil with that much "turn-over".

It will probably run like that for a long time still. That is crazy consumption, wonder where it is all going? Out the tail pipe?

lindenengineering
08-29-2014, 03:36 AM
High oil consumption should be investigated!
Apart from the obvious like engine wear the crankcase breather on earlier models (found on the passengers side valve cover) has a habit of rupturing its diaphragm and blowing oil into the induction tract.
The other can be oil carry over across the turbo. K&N filters when neglected or poorly serviced create a high depression in the induction tract which doesn't help!

I have one in the shop that came from another shop who flung their hands up in surrender!
Even tore off the cat and hollowed it out! And with a no code condition!
Clouds of blue and white & MORE blue smoke! Even fogged out the missus in the back office! Got a cussing!:rolleyes:

Base lining the engine (which should have been done in the first place) I found the turbo impeller and shaft sheered off! Crankcase oil was pouring into the turbo snail housing and into the engine where it was being burnt--quite spectacular! Emptied the crankcase it did!

Retired the truck to a stall for repair with the missus still cussing about the stink in the office!:rolleyes:

She smells acrid diesel, I smell green money:thumbup:
Dennis

piper1
08-29-2014, 08:12 PM
Running a 2007 and up on any oil that isn't 229.51 approved is just adding to the problems. What do you think happens to the crankcase pressure inside the engine when the emission system fouls up from the excess additives in non 299.51 oil? Guess what excess crankcase pressure can cause?

Unless somethings has changed today...there is no Rotella (or anything at TSC) that is 229.51 approved. Just because it says it is emission friendly oil...means nothing to the MB emission system. It has much higher requirements for friendship.

I suspect you are loooooong past this being fixable without a re-build and suspect the previous owner neglected/destroyed this for you.

Studio718
09-30-2014, 02:35 AM
I have a 07 with 300k Miles that burns about 2 gallons every 800 miles.

Changed the turbo, changed the seals, changed the cooler, dpf, egr.....

I'm down $4800 from the mechanic + parts and still today.......after driving it all day from NY to MD and back.

" engine oil low, turn off engine!!!! ".

I'm at witts end with this van.

No codes nothing, runs like a new van and all but just burns oil.
No smoke also.

Sprinter SS
10-03-2014, 12:43 AM
Running a 2007 and up on any oil that isn't 229.51 approved is just adding to the problems. What do you think happens to the crankcase pressure inside the engine when the emission system fouls up from the excess additives in non 299.51 oil? Guess what excess crankcase pressure can cause?

Unless somethings has changed today...there is no Rotella (or anything at TSC) that is 229.51 approved. Just because it says it is emission friendly oil...means nothing to the MB emission system. It has much higher requirements for friendship.

I suspect you are loooooong past this being fixable without a re-build and suspect the previous owner neglected/destroyed this for you.
Something tells me when you are using "gallons" of oil the spec of the oil may not matter!

Rob S
10-03-2014, 03:48 AM
Wow! At that rate, no wonder the fuel consumption is low. I would begin to suspect the fuel pump is drawing half of it's supply from the oil sump :bounce:

Or the turbo is blowing engine oil into the intake manifold. I think I read earlier the dpf was already gutted, so clogging and back-pressure are no longer an issue.

I just wonder how sufficient sensors got disabled to allow it to run under these conditions.

ps Facetious reply - all puns intended

frathouse
10-05-2014, 09:06 PM
Studio, just noticed you mentioned driving 'all day' and don't see any smoke. Stupid question maybe but have you driven much at night yet? I owned my van a couple months before I was out in it at night. I too thought my van didn't smoke, the cars' headlights behind me at night illuminate a never ending cloud of smoke.

Studio718
10-10-2014, 06:42 AM
Studio, just noticed you mentioned driving 'all day' and don't see any smoke. Stupid question maybe but have you driven much at night yet? I owned my van a couple months before I was out in it at night. I too thought my van didn't smoke, the cars' headlights behind me at night illuminate a never ending cloud of smoke.

Going to take it back to the shop when I get back for the 4th time.
drove to Upstate, NY ( canadian border ) with no issue. used one gallon of oil.
drove to westminster, MD with no issues also.

van runs and boosts fine just the oil consumption issue that noone can make sense of.

frathouse
12-17-2014, 11:33 PM
My sweet day of release has arrived! My sprinter earned me enough $$ for a new van. As ugly as she is, my short, high, GAS Promaster is growing on me. No more freaky diesel issues to deal with. If your looking for a kinda-sorta decent van try Ebay. Search for the cheapest sprinter on there and get yourself a bargin! As my friend Neal Boortz would say, AMF, AMF to everything Sprinter for the rest of my life, lol.