View Full Version : Help. doesn't start.

03-10-2014, 10:42 PM
This is a 3rd time that we have gotten this problem recently.

Symptom: I can turn a key, but there's no sound at all, and doesn't start engine. no error sign.
However, first and second time when we got the problem,
after couple of try(about for 20minute) finally make engine to start.
And after that, we can start engine without any problem for a while.

And now, our driver got the same problem at 1 hour distance,
and it looks like trying turning key is not working..

Thank you for any help.

more info)
MB tech recommended to change drive belt.. is it matter??
No battery problem for sure. Recently replaced with new one. And It was happen.. after driving hours and parking for less than 20 minutes.

2007 sprinter Can n Chassis. I forgot the exact miles..about 110,000mile

03-10-2014, 10:45 PM
I'll call AAA to get help.
And I think it would be better if I can inform them about my problem and possible method to fix.
Because they may able to bring necessary tools or parts to fix that. (for example..may be starter fuse)

I'll be appreciated if you let me know necessary tools and parts too.


03-10-2014, 11:03 PM
I dont know the details but isnt one of the cables usually at fault for this kind of behavior. The main power that goes threw the firewall?

I would check by just moving the cables attached to the battery, physically move them with your hand and see if you get anything.

Someone may be able to chime in with a more detailed explanation.

03-10-2014, 11:23 PM
Thank you.

I let him know to move the cable, and finally it started!.

So..I think it is the time to change somethings..

Can you let me know what cable do I have to change?


03-11-2014, 12:14 AM
Check the engine to ground cable for corrosion and the starter connection .
Sometimes it's a worn out Brake switch at the top of the brake pedal assembly .
It could be any cable that has worn the insulation off and wire is touching something causing an electrical gremlin.

03-11-2014, 01:54 AM
Glad I could help. I may not be the most technical but I retain a lot of random info from people who know much much more then me. I am glad I could offer something that helped you guys.

03-11-2014, 04:21 PM
Thank you very much :)

03-12-2014, 07:11 PM
Check the engine to ground cable for corrosion and the starter connection .
Sometimes it's a worn out Brake switch at the top of the brake pedal assembly .
It could be any cable that has worn the insulation off and wire is touching something causing an electrical gremlin.

Hi, I opened the battery cage, and I checked every wires.. however it looks like fine..

I tink I should change every cables or parts step by step until it solve the problem..
Can you give me some advice which one should I have change first, second,..

And, by the way, where can I buy those cables?
It seems like Europarts doesn't have those things.


03-13-2014, 12:43 AM
Looks fine is not the preferred method because the wire on the outside is fine the inside crimps and connectors crimps wick water and that creates corrosion. Corrosion causes high resistance and voltage drops over that resistance and the components do not function with low voltage at the device. Any poor connection can cause voltage drop examples would be dirty or loose battery post connections, loose or dirty connection at the starter post or in some Sprinter case the crimps in the battery leads.

Testing is more economical and conclusive in finding the problem areas.

Voltage drop testing each wire section would be very helpful. ( Google voltage drop testing and you will find many videos and instructions on how it is done.). Simple explanation is in a simple light circuit with a switch.........if the battery voltage is 12 volts, measuring along the positive wire 12 volts would remain at the switch and after the switch (in the on position) 12 volts would be present in ( real values 11.8) cause .2 volt dropped over the wire and switch. If there was 8 volts after the switch that would indicate excessive drop due to resistance in the switch or wire. The light symptom would be dim. Some voltage drop is normal is every circuit. Measuring resistance of the starter or battery cables or connections in NOT a valid test. Voltage drop measures and evaluates the cable or circuit under load.

Voltage drop testing also should be done on the pos and neg side. Neg tests while confirm ground connections.

03-13-2014, 01:25 AM
Thank you for help.
Do I need to check beneath of the sprinter, or is it OK to just check near a battery?

And Is there any other possibility beside cable? maybe relay, fuse..

I saw that AutoZone has a general battery cable.
Can I use the cable for replacement or do I need to do special order?


03-13-2014, 01:57 PM
Modifying the battery wiring could have some very very serious consequences if not done to a very high standard might be best to stick with certified replacement parts. One could arque the stock parts are flawed but the routing, support, attaching points, gauge are correct.

The two consequences that come to mind fire and stopping on the highway.

03-13-2014, 08:17 PM
So where i can buy the oem cable?
I can't find it in europarts.

03-14-2014, 01:58 AM
OEM will come from the dealer ............Any dealer MB or Dodge or Freightliner Sprinter can get it prices will vary..........many dealers sell on the web

There is still a large question here ...........is the cable really the problem........starter, relay, fuses, ECU, ign switch and several other things could be the problem. Testing and troubleshooting vs parts replacing is really needed.

03-14-2014, 08:20 AM
Thank you for help :)

This is a last question.
I'll try the method, however if I can't find the spot, I think that I may have to go MB dealer.

Can MB dealer find the problematic spot by using the MB scanner?
If my understanding is correct, MB dealer can scan specifically for electric system to find electric problems.