Thanks to all who helped answer my questions here:
http://www.sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=31278
I successfully changed oil, oil filter, air filters, and fuel filter in my 2008 NCV3 2500.
I bought the drip pan that jdcaples suggested in the thread above. I got it at NAPA for $15. It works like a charm. It is well-designed with a plastic grill to catch the plug and washer as they fall, and it can hold 15 quarts. And the lid stayed on snug when I transported the oil to a shop for disposal.
I also used a big flat tray (bought at Wal-Mart) to avoid any spilled oil on the ground.
Since I was going to remove electrical connections in the air filter housing as well as the fuel filter, I disconnected the chassis battery negative terminal above the accelerator pedal. (Thanks Bobojay)
I had driven a few miles before pulling in to change oil so the engine was at operating temp. But I changed air filters first to let the oil cool just a bit so as not to get burned.
Changing the cabin filter is the easiest thing ever...just lift the clips up gently and/or push down a bit on the old filter and pull out and then up to remove it...clean out the housing with a rag or in my case, paper towels. Insert new filter bottom first to fit into the rail made for it and then push the top down gently and then toward the cabin to insert.
Next, the air filter housing has torx screws which are really not screws that come out of the housing (Thank you German designers...this is good for a klutz like me). They just twist one turn and are undone but stay in the cover. Lift the cover, and insert new filter. Made the sides of the filter snug in the housing. Also cleaned out the housing first to remove dirt/debris.
Now the oil had cooled just enough...I bought the assenmacher oil filter cap tool from amazon to remove the Oil filter cover. Pic below with part # etc. I realized when I got to it that I didn't have a socket big enough to use my socket wrench on the new bought tool. I just used a crescent wrench instead on the assenmacher tool to unscrew the fuel filter housing. It was just a bit snug but not too bad at all. This is where some caution is needed because really dark oil will drip out of the oil filter. Going in with both hands and keeping a paper towel handy will help. I went for the oil filter first because we all may have read a recent horror story where one forum member couldn't get the filter cap to come off. I decided, if the oil filter is not coming off, I am keeping the oil change for another day.
Next, I went under the van with a socket wrench and slowly removed the drain plug. I thought oil would start trickling the moment I unscrewed even a couple of threads...not so. Which is a good thing. It allows you time to position the pan to catch the flow once it starts. I didn't let a single drop spill into the tray...all went directly into the drain pan. The flow took a few minutes and I finally inserted the drain plug WITH a new crush washer which came attached with the box of the new Oil filter. I had a torque wrench but I just used the socket wrench and made things snug and then some (highly technical metrics here..."and then some").
Next, I fed the motor some brand new oil. I used a funnel for the first quart but I realized that would be painfully slow. I removed the coolant hose from its clip and that made room to tip the oil bottles comfortably while keeping the spout right above the fill hole.
Based on bobojay's advice, I filled only 12 quarts at first instead of 13.25. After doing the rest of the service (fuel filter portion continued below...), I finally connected the negative terminal and started the engine and I didn't get a low oil light until the next day. I filled up oil next day and checked the dipstick for assurance.
Assyst, and fuel filter below.
http://www.sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=31278
I successfully changed oil, oil filter, air filters, and fuel filter in my 2008 NCV3 2500.
I bought the drip pan that jdcaples suggested in the thread above. I got it at NAPA for $15. It works like a charm. It is well-designed with a plastic grill to catch the plug and washer as they fall, and it can hold 15 quarts. And the lid stayed on snug when I transported the oil to a shop for disposal.
I also used a big flat tray (bought at Wal-Mart) to avoid any spilled oil on the ground.
Since I was going to remove electrical connections in the air filter housing as well as the fuel filter, I disconnected the chassis battery negative terminal above the accelerator pedal. (Thanks Bobojay)
I had driven a few miles before pulling in to change oil so the engine was at operating temp. But I changed air filters first to let the oil cool just a bit so as not to get burned.
Changing the cabin filter is the easiest thing ever...just lift the clips up gently and/or push down a bit on the old filter and pull out and then up to remove it...clean out the housing with a rag or in my case, paper towels. Insert new filter bottom first to fit into the rail made for it and then push the top down gently and then toward the cabin to insert.
Next, the air filter housing has torx screws which are really not screws that come out of the housing (Thank you German designers...this is good for a klutz like me). They just twist one turn and are undone but stay in the cover. Lift the cover, and insert new filter. Made the sides of the filter snug in the housing. Also cleaned out the housing first to remove dirt/debris.
Now the oil had cooled just enough...I bought the assenmacher oil filter cap tool from amazon to remove the Oil filter cover. Pic below with part # etc. I realized when I got to it that I didn't have a socket big enough to use my socket wrench on the new bought tool. I just used a crescent wrench instead on the assenmacher tool to unscrew the fuel filter housing. It was just a bit snug but not too bad at all. This is where some caution is needed because really dark oil will drip out of the oil filter. Going in with both hands and keeping a paper towel handy will help. I went for the oil filter first because we all may have read a recent horror story where one forum member couldn't get the filter cap to come off. I decided, if the oil filter is not coming off, I am keeping the oil change for another day.
Next, I went under the van with a socket wrench and slowly removed the drain plug. I thought oil would start trickling the moment I unscrewed even a couple of threads...not so. Which is a good thing. It allows you time to position the pan to catch the flow once it starts. I didn't let a single drop spill into the tray...all went directly into the drain pan. The flow took a few minutes and I finally inserted the drain plug WITH a new crush washer which came attached with the box of the new Oil filter. I had a torque wrench but I just used the socket wrench and made things snug and then some (highly technical metrics here..."and then some").
Next, I fed the motor some brand new oil. I used a funnel for the first quart but I realized that would be painfully slow. I removed the coolant hose from its clip and that made room to tip the oil bottles comfortably while keeping the spout right above the fill hole.
Based on bobojay's advice, I filled only 12 quarts at first instead of 13.25. After doing the rest of the service (fuel filter portion continued below...), I finally connected the negative terminal and started the engine and I didn't get a low oil light until the next day. I filled up oil next day and checked the dipstick for assurance.
Assyst, and fuel filter below.
