EGR valve stuck... but not like you think

MillionMileSprinter

Millionmilesprinter.com
'05. Black smoke and low power under 2000 rpms. Looks like a dirty EGR. Simple, right? Well, it's stuck. Not the vanes, but the entire assembly! I can't get it out of the intake manifold. I pulled out all 5 screws and it wont come out. So far I have banged on it with a rubber mallet, used a slide hammer to yank it out and even tried a torch on it to heat up the manifold so the EGR assy would slide out. No dice. Any ideas or tips?
 
Is this on your Sprinter, or someone else's? I ask because I thought the recent tune was supposed to delete the EGR... Maybe with the EGR delete problems can still arise, I am just curious and do not want to change the course of this thread form your original intent.

-John
 

flman

Well-known member
It was tough to pull the NCV3 valve last week, but not that tough. Can you rotate the assembly? That is what I ended up doing to free it up, and I used more then a rubber mallet. I am thinking I slapped the flange into motion with a real hammer.
 

mendonsy

Member
It seems like that has to be similar to what happens with the glow plugs and injectors.
Have you tried soaking it for a while with some good penetrating oil like Kroil or PB Blaster to soften up the carbon??
 

MillionMileSprinter

Millionmilesprinter.com
...ok, so I got the valve to work fine and not throw any codes... until today. Black smoke and low power under 2000 rpms. Mind you, I never got it out of the manifold.
So I need to know- is it perfectly round? Will/should the EGR valve assembly spin inside the manifold? If so, I'm going to create some sort of lever for it that uses the existing threaded holes. That way I can start to spin it to loosen it. 'Cause the slide hammer ain't cuttin' it!
And yes, I've soaked it, but most of the fluid just runs down the outside of the manifold. It's in an awkward spot to accept any kind of fluid in the crack.
Any other thoughts?
Thanks!
 

b1xcra35

MacAlan
I'd be wary of using a steel hammer on an engine (if that's what you meant by a "real hammer" :smilewink:). Maybe get your hands on a bronze or copper or even aluminium mallet. They carry a lot more heft while far less likely than steel to cause collateral damage. Machinists, mechanics and Tool and Die shops use them and they come in various weights. Good luck!
 

pgr

Active member
I had the same problem with my '04. I thought it would never come out. The soot builds up around it and tends to lock it in place even with all the bolts removed. I used a plastic hammer and a lot of PB Blaster and after about an hour on tapping it all around and cursing it slowly came out. The problem is trying to find a place on it you can keep hitting with a hammer as there is next to no room to swing anything let alone a big hammer. Just take your time and expect to destroy the old one in the process and eventually you'll get it out:bash:
 

MillionMileSprinter

Millionmilesprinter.com
Ok, that makes me feel better. Sort of. Destroying it is not an option. I dont want to destroy it or the intake manifold, but i was worried that i was missing something like a bolt or release or something. Now i see all it takes is patience and determination.
 

flman

Well-known member
I guess it depends who is swinging the hammer common sense will prevail in whether you damage it or not. :rolleyes:
 

220629

Well-known member
I guess it depends who is swinging the hammer common sense will prevail in whether you damage it or not. :rolleyes:
Typically, I agree with your comment. Unfortunately too often I find myself crossing that fine line of "proper" BFH application in similar situations.

I would strongly suggest that a spare in hand is a requirement before I would feel comfortable using increasingly harder "taps" on the EGR. I know the replacement EGR is expensive, but sometimes you just shouldn't cheap out. The EGR is in a position to have accumulated a bunch of ugly exhaust gas residue.

vic
 

flman

Well-known member
Typically, I agree with your comment. Unfortunately too often I find myself crossing that fine line of "proper" BFH application in similar situations.

I would strongly suggest that a spare in hand is a requirement before I would feel comfortable using increasingly harder "taps" on the EGR. I know the replacement EGR is expensive, but sometimes you just shouldn't cheap out. The EGR is in a position to have accumulated a bunch of ugly exhaust gas residue.

vic
A light tap on the flange to get things rotating is not going to hurt a thing. Not enough space to do any real swinging with a hammer any ways.

Any ways, did T2T make any progress yet? :popcorn:
 

flman

Well-known member
Any way to put a pair of channel locks on it and make some rotation? Of course it will not be pretty.
 

fdhamlin

New member
First remove the coolant hose and try to catch as much of the liquid that you can. Otherwise it will spill down int the engine. Once the hose is out of the way tap lightly on the hose connection. It should jar the EGR free from the soot build up. I used a small plastic hammer.
 

pgr

Active member
Why are you conserved with not destroying it? If it's that badly soothed up chances are it's already junk anyhow. I think your odds of twisting it are even less than banging it up but a good 2' pipe wrench might do it:bash:
 

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