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View Full Version : Glow Plug #2 Snapped


halexh
02-15-2014, 09:06 AM
I know there is a lot of GP threads but I couldn't find any information on driving with a broken plug. I pulled #3-5 a couple days ago and left the easiest :smirk: ones for today. #3-5 were so easy I wasn't expecting any problems. I set my torque wrench to 15 ft lbs and went at it. Engine was at 180F when I started working on them. #1 came out no problems but #2 didn't even budge at 15 ft lbs. Let it cool off a bit put the new plug in #1 and went for a drive. Came back and tried #2 again still didn't move at 15 lbs so I gave it a bit more :bash: it started coming creeek creek and was a pain all the way to the end. At the very end it started coming out really easy I guess too easy. When I pulled it out I was really surprised I only had the top part of the glow plug. I guess my question is can I drive the van with the top of the glow plug being broken off or is the bottom part going to come shooting out :hmmm: is it a bad idea to try to take the bottom part out myself. I don't know if it makes any difference in how easy it would be to remove the stuck piece but this was a working plug.

Also from my understanding the glow plug doesn't seal at the threads but all the way down closer to the tip is this correct. I put a red circle on the area.

Ohh yeah one more thing how much black soot is normal on the tip of the GP's ???

JAM
02-15-2014, 01:06 PM
That sucks man. #2 gave me problems too. Had to tighten then loosen a bunch of times only moving a quarter turn at a time with lots of wd40 and finally came out. Took about 45 minutes on that one. Sd euro parts.com sells or rents a glow plug removal tool for when they break I believe.

Dougflas
02-15-2014, 01:40 PM
I have read Euro-parts no longer rents these tools.

jdcaples
02-15-2014, 07:40 PM
I don't know how much soot is normal at the tip.

I don't know where in the bore it seals.

I do know that the the glow plug extraction too is about $300.00

http://wiseautotools.com/b900-0199-broken-glow-plug-removal-tool/

HKuniumG6LI

In the comments section of the video on youtube

57846


Are you talented enough to get it out yourself w/o a purpose-built tool?

-Jon

halexh
02-15-2014, 08:02 PM
I would like to think that I can get it out myself. But wouldn't feel comfortable trying to pull it out unless the engine was at operating temperature. I think that having everything WARM would make the difference between more problems and being able to pull it out. So again I know it sounds silly but is it alright to start/run the engine with the plug in that condition. Also I can take a better pic but to me it looks like a pull would be enough to get it out as in I don't have to turn it because of where the plug snapped.

Oilburner
02-15-2014, 08:34 PM
I run mine with similar situation, no problem so far..here is link to my thread:

http://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=29342

halexh
02-15-2014, 08:55 PM
Oops must of missed that one, there is literally hundreds of GP threads. Thank You for posting up the link Oilburner. I am going out to the garage and will see what I come up with as far as removal. Will post when the head is off :shifty:

halexh
02-16-2014, 01:56 AM
So I figured out a way to thread the inside of the left over piece. Got a m6 bolt on it and started working it out. At first it wouldn't budge drove the van a bit and then it started moving it went all the way up to the lip and now it won't budge. I don't wanna break the m6 bolt in there. This sucks should I start thinking about pulling the intake manifold :frown:

halexh
02-18-2014, 03:09 AM
Well I got a piece out this doesn't look like its going to come out unless I take the head off and take it to a machine shop. Take a look at the pics has anyone had this happen ?

I started with a M6 thread going in 20mm once the threads were stripped I stepped up to a M7 same depth and the plug snapped again. The piece came up with the M7 stud I used as a puller.

Would it be okay to thread deeper ? It looks like I have another 25mm before I hit the lip that narrows for the start of the tip.

:cry:

pacman_34
02-18-2014, 03:31 AM
I would spray wd40 or oven cleaner and drive it like that for a week. Then try what your doing again. Worse case, if it doesn't come out just drill it till u get to the narrow portion of the plug. Pulling the head won't help. You can't do much from the other side. Keep trying to tap it and rotate it. It will eventually come out.

halexh
02-18-2014, 04:39 AM
Thanks pacman_34

I've been working it with KROIL and ATF/ACETONE mix but only for 2-3 days. I'll give it a bit more time now that there is room for it to soak through. The plug was stuck on the threads before. Now its a bit lower.

halexh
02-18-2014, 11:21 PM
Finally the Sprinter is starting to help me out. I poured some diesel in the injector glow plug bore to soak it over night. This morning I sucked the diesel out and put some ATF/ACETONE and went to do some errands. On my way home 1 block away from home I heard a loud pop followed by bad idle :) Pulled in the driveway the rest of the plug is nowhere to be found. Cleaned out the M10 threads. Now I have to find a way to clean it all the way. Can't really find a reamer for these for less than $150 :censored:

jdcaples
02-19-2014, 12:37 AM
Finally the Sprinter is starting to help me out. I poured some diesel in the injector to soak it over night. This morning I sucked the diesel out and put some ATF/ACETONE and went to do some errands. On my way home 1 block away from home I heard a loud pop followed by bad idle :) Pulled in the driveway the rest of the plug is nowhere to be found. Cleaned out the M10 threads. Now I have to find a way to clean it all the way. Can't really find a reamer for these for less than $150 :censored:


Congrats!


Did you mean "poured in some ATF/ACETONE into the" glowplug bore, or the injector bore?

Why do I ask?

The injector hold down bolts are "use once and toss," parts.

They're called "Torque To Yield" or TTY bolts, aka "stretch bolts."

If you reused the injector hold down bolt, get a new one and install it.

-Jon

shortshort
02-19-2014, 04:01 AM
Congrats!

halexh
02-19-2014, 04:59 AM
Congrats!


Did you mean "poured in some ATF/ACETONE into the" glowplug bore, or the injector bore?

Why do I ask?

The injector hold down bolts are "use once and toss," parts.

They're called "Torque To Yield" or TTY bolts, aka "stretch bolts."

If you reused the injector hold down bolt, get a new one and install it.

-Jon


Glow plug bore prior to the left over piece coming out. I never did the injector removal/compressed air stream thing. I don't want to risk the threads on the hold down bolts. I used alot of grease when reaming for soot and then inserted a flex hose through the glow plug bore into the cylinder and used compressed air that way. I know that's not the best way to do it. Will see if I will be kicking myself down the line :thinking:

I just reread your post I see why you asked... I'll correct it to say glow plug. I don't know what I was thinking.




Also just thinking back I wanted to make sure I cleaned up the bore really well and the only way I could come up with checking as you cant really see in there is to count how many turns before the glow plug sits flush. In all the other bores I am getting 10 turns exactly while in #2 I can only get 9 1/2. Does that mean that M10 @1.00 x 1/2 turn 0.05mm soot/carbon on the seat ?

SprinterHelp
02-22-2014, 06:40 PM
Mine too, replaced all others, been two years. Would be nice to fix. Not sure one less makes a difference. Its my only error.

halexh
02-22-2014, 11:51 PM
Mine too, replaced all others, been two years. Would be nice to fix. Not sure one less makes a difference. Its my only error.

Yours too as in #2 ?

The reason I ask is that I've seen a few threads where people have snapped #2 is it possible that one is more prone to seizing for some reason :hmmm: