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Terdchaser
01-05-2014, 01:27 PM
Returned from vacation yesterday and went to prepare the van for work next week. Forgot to disconnect the GPS which in turn killed the battery. Thought, no problem, I'll unlock the driver's door and pop the hood and hook up the battery charger. Appears the bell crank rod from the lock cylinder to the lock mechanism has disconnected. :yell: Opened the rear door and confirmed the battery is dead due to the lack of cargo lights. This van is loaded with shelving and has the factory cargo partition. Going this way is NOT an option.
My thoughts at this point;
1. Is there a way to get to the hood latch assembly to pop it without damaging the grill?

2. Could I connect the battery charger to the main cable of the starter and back-feed the battery without frying the electrical system and use the key fob to unlock the driver's door?

3. Do I just get a brick and break out the vent window?

Any thoughts or insight will greatly be appreciated!
Cheers! :cheers: Paul 2007 2500 Tall Stretch Diesel

Aqua Puttana
01-05-2014, 01:39 PM
...
2. Could I connect the battery charger to the main cable of the starter and back-feed the battery without frying the electrical system and use the key fob to unlock the driver's door?

... Any thoughts or insight will greatly be appreciated!
Cheers! :cheers: Paul 2007 2500 Tall Stretch Diesel
I vote for #2. Nice thinking. :thumbup: The lock system should respond very shortly after the charger is connected.

Good luck. vic

sailquik
01-05-2014, 01:46 PM
Terdchaser,
Did you try your key in both front door locks? Maybe the RH door has less use and will open with the key!
Also, the cargo partition comes out pretty easily so maybe it would take 20 min to get it out giving you access to
the cockpit and hood release.
Might try to make a couple of small reseal able cuts in the rubber moulding that holds the vent window in place,
and work the window out in one piece.
Then when you get it running reinstall the window and seal up the cuts in the corners.
Someone here has done this and provided a dialogue on how to do it.
http://sprinter-source.com/forum/showpost.php?p=153196&postcount=16
Hope this helps,
Roger

Terdchaser
01-05-2014, 02:37 PM
Terdchaser,
Did you try your key in both front door locks? Maybe the RH door has less use and will open with the key!
Also, the cargo partition comes out pretty easily so maybe it would take 20 min to get it out giving you access to
the cockpit and hood release.
Might try to make a couple of small reseal able cuts in the rubber moulding that holds the vent window in place,
and work the window out in one piece.
Then when you get it running reinstall the window and seal up the cuts in the corners.
Someone here has done this and provided a dialogue on how to do it.
http://sprinter-source.com/forum/showpost.php?p=153196&postcount=16
Hope this helps,
Roger

Thanks for the input Roger!
This van has no lock cylinder on the passenger's door. :frown:
I also don't doubt the partition would come out in 20 minutes or less however there are two 5' x 5' shelving units packed with tools and parts that would have to be removed first... at best a 3-4 hour project. That is why this route is not an option. :cry:
I appreciate the link for the vent window and THAT is a viable option! :thumbup:

Cheers! :cheers: Paul

Dingo
01-05-2014, 02:41 PM
If you can get into the cargo area , simply attach a battery charger live to the live terminal of the interior light & the ground to a clean bolt head somewhere . Switch on the charger & leave for 30 minutes while you have your lunch / drink / kick the cat SWITCH OFF & REMOVE wires from charger before triggering remote fob

After that time there should be sufficient power to trigger the central locking system . I suggest the interior lights , as these are not wired via the ignition switch but feed directly from the battery . Oh and use a charger that puts out less than 8A or you could melt the wiring , filling up the van's battery

Cheyenne
01-05-2014, 02:50 PM
And another option...

Get a Winbag Link (http://www.winbag.eu/) from the local hardware store, slip through the door seal near the top rear corner, gently inflate to flex the door out until you can either get a wire though to hook the hood release or a cane to prod the unlock button.
It's the way breakdown crews work around here.

Keith.

autostaretx
01-05-2014, 03:41 PM
If you can get into the cargo area , simply attach a battery charger live to the live terminal of the interior light & the ground to a clean bolt head somewhere . Switch on the charger & leave for 30 minutes while you have your lunch / drink / kick the cat SWITCH OFF & REMOVE wires from charger before triggering remote fob
If you're going to try that, use a charger that *limits the charge* to a low (less than 10) amperage rate.
The wires between the interior lights and the battery were not "sized" to carry high currents for extended periods (or even short periods).

(i highly recommend the "starter" version)

--dick

NBB
01-05-2014, 03:46 PM
I would NOT connect a charger to the lighting. The + wires, I am fairly certain because of the dimming, are NOT connected directly to the battery. If you blew a FET (or more) in the controller, it would be very expensive. You might not even be able to push a charge through it at all, anyway.

I would go with the starter option myself.

lindenengineering
01-05-2014, 04:31 PM
If you can get into the cargo area , simply attach a battery charger live to the live terminal of the interior light & the ground to a clean bolt head somewhere . Switch on the charger & leave for 30 minutes while you have your lunch / drink / kick the cat SWITCH OFF & REMOVE wires from charger before triggering remote fob

After that time there should be sufficient power to trigger the central locking system . I suggest the interior lights , as these are not wired via the ignition switch but feed directly from the battery . Oh and use a charger that puts out less than 8A or you could melt the wiring , filling up the van's battery

Dino and me think the same way--Must be a Brit thing!
In fact simply slither under the van attach the charger + ve to the main positive red wire connection and then the other to a good ground or "erf " (earth) as we call it .
Charge away and since the red wire is connected directly to the battery a few minutes and you will have--POWER.

Now LANDROVER knows you will maybe face the same predicament one day so they have a convenient +ve boss platic blanked on the frame just for this contengency.
In fact on one model they even provide us service bods with the knowledge of a hidden wire clump to back power probe the Becm and open the tail gate.
Anyway I am digressing;-

In fact with a bit of deft manipulation you can get the engine hood/bonnet/cover released from the grill area AND on TINS that huge MB badge covers the hood release mechanism which is a breeze to poke a tool in there and release the lock.

Info from the world's car thieves (UK) . Fact from my nephew ex London Met detective White Collar crime unit.:laughing:
Dennis

Terdchaser
01-05-2014, 04:51 PM
O.K. gang, with breakfast over with now, I went out to the van armed with a shop light, my Schumaker 2-10-50 Battery Charger and a utility knife with a new blade.
I attached the positive clamp to the main positive post at the starter and clipped the negative clamp to one of the E-star motor mount bolts close by to complete the circuit. Wiggled my portly self from beneath the van, disconnected the shop light, set the charger to 10 amps and plugged it in. Waited 10 seconds and pushed the unlock button on the key fob.........Ka-plunk! I'm IN! :rad: :bounce:
Charger is currently connected to the proper charging posts and is breathing life back into the battery, GPS is un-plugged.

Thanks again to Vic and Roger :bow: Y'all are a great sounding board! :thumbup:

Cheers! :cheers: Paul

note to self: Don't leave a box of chicken wing bones in the van while on vacation. A steamy :turd: smells better!:lol:

lindenengineering
01-05-2014, 07:41 PM
BINGO!:thumbup:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3YmMNpbFjp0

Now have an easy Sunday, and have a beer (s) a few "tinneys" as they say Down Under!
Glad it worked for you
Dennis

Now here's a thought squencher:-
Having got power into a dead car and you have opened the door by fair means or foul, how would you start it and drive it away? Even you don't own it!!

Don't answer the question but think it through.
We service techs do it quite often on an Honest service basis BUT, that stated MB products believe it or not are very easy to "boost" if you have the RIGHT Chinese made "com' box o' tricks" and a lap top!
Best time was 2 minutes and 35 seconds to lock security overide & operational on a C class!
D

MillionMileSprinter
01-05-2014, 07:54 PM
[QUOTE=lindenengineering;275689]
We service techs do it quite often on an Honest service basis

When I worked at a VW shop in Chile, I learned how to "hotwire" pretty much any non-computer protected car. Mechanics can moonlight as crooks pretty easily because they know lots of the tricks. :hmmm:

lindenengineering
01-05-2014, 10:06 PM
[QUOTE=lindenengineering;275689]
We service techs do it quite often on an Honest service basis

When I worked at a VW shop in Chile, I learned how to "hotwire" pretty much any non-computer protected car.


Ooh
Where in Chile?
I have a friend who is/was the shop foreman at Williams & Balfour VW dealership in Santiago.
I used to spent a few months every year in the 90's doing mechanics tech instruction for that group and their big truck div (Daf trucks) in the Capital and up in Inquique & Antofagasta. In those days I was based in crazy Caracas. Made a nice change to visit the saner Euro flavor Chile.
Dennis

wmlog
01-05-2014, 11:04 PM
... My thoughts at this point;
1. Is there a way to get to the hood latch assembly to pop it without damaging the grill?

2. Could I connect the battery charger to the main cable of the starter and back-feed the battery without frying the electrical system and use the key fob to unlock the driver's door?

3. Do I just get a brick and break out the vent window? ...

I would definitely go with Option 2. The (+) terminal at the starter is the same electrical point as the (+) jump start point under the hood, or the (+) post of the starting battery.

:thumbup:

lindenengineering
01-06-2014, 01:52 AM
I would definitely go with Option 2. The (+) terminal at the starter is the same electrical point as the (+) jump start point under the hood, or the (+) post of the starting battery.

:thumbup:

You could also go onto the Alternator B+ve terminal, they are all connected on a gang main (primary) circuit.

Dennis

MillionMileSprinter
01-06-2014, 02:30 AM
Ooh
Where in Chile?
Dennis

Vina Del Mar. No, I never got to the Festival. I don't know why, but it never interested me.

lindenengineering
01-07-2014, 03:25 AM
Nice!
I tend to like rustic and grubby old Valparaiso--The San Francisco of the south.

When I was there during one trip I got invited to the Naval College for a dinner as the cousin of my host was graduating. I got wined & dined and allowed to sign the vistor's book as Brit and the honoring of the Chilean Navy's founder one Lord Cochran. (Said to be the inspiration of the main character in the book & film Master & Commander).
Nice place Chile, very industrious people.
Cheers Dennis

PS For those of you reading this here are some views. How's about driving your Sprinter down there? Wine is good!
D

https://www.google.com/#q=pictures+of+valparaiso+chile

Brian12345
01-07-2014, 11:36 PM
O.K. gang, with breakfast over with now, I went out to the van armed with a shop light, my Schumaker 2-10-50 Battery Charger and a utility knife with a new blade.
I attached the positive clamp to the main positive post at the starter and clipped the negative clamp to one of the E-star motor mount bolts close by to complete the circuit. Wiggled my portly self from beneath the van, disconnected the shop light, set the charger to 10 amps and plugged it in. Waited 10 seconds and pushed the unlock button on the key fob.........Ka-plunk! I'm IN! :rad: :bounce:
Charger is currently connected to the proper charging posts and is breathing life back into the battery, GPS is un-plugged.

Thanks again to Vic and Roger :bow: Y'all are a great sounding board! :thumbup:

Cheers! :cheers: Paul



note to self: Don't leave a box of chicken wing bones in the van while on vacation. A steamy :turd: smells better!:lol:

You could have just pushed the fob button right after you hooked up the + cable. (While you were under the sprinter) I don't think it would have taken much juice to work the door locks.