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breakinwind
12-03-2013, 03:49 AM
I have a 2006 2500 high top with 296K miles, just broken in. ;)

Recently I have been trouble-shooting all kinds of weirdness happening. It started with an intermittent increase in rumble strip, then it started to shift high, then an occasional flaring between gears and really hard shifts. I changed the wheel speed sensors and it improved, plus the cruise control started to work again.

I also had a bad abs wiring harness (Vehicle Dynamic Control) that was shorted out long ago, so I changed that.

Then it went it to limp home mode. I had it scanned and it came up as a whole slew of issues, which brought me searching here. Turned out to be a bad transmission conductor plate. While the pan was down, I decided to make the Dr. A Rumble strip repair as well.

I drained the Torque converter and put her all back together. However, I could not find any fluid locally. Carquest assured me Redline d6 would work. I contacted Redline directly to make sure, and they gave me the thumbs up.

All back together and it shifts super smooth. Never shifted better...

**HOWEVER, it is slipping now! I notice it mostly at higher speeds, 3rd and up. If i give a little extra throttle the rpms rev up. It acts like a worn clutch on a manual tranny.

I'm wondering, could it be the fluid?

Or is there some damage from running it with the bad wheel sensors and conductor plate?

Could the rsn fix be preventing full clutch engagement?

Anyone have a similar experience or idea?

BTW, I have 8 quarts of fuchs on its way from Europarts, just in case.

Thanks for your advice!

NelsonSprinter
12-04-2013, 03:42 AM
I also received Redline D6 from a parts supplier when asking for a Sprinter NAG1 ATF, have had no slipping or issues, but noticed after on the label it's for NAG2
I would re-check the fluid level, low levels could cause slipping.

bruceiam
12-04-2013, 03:55 AM
I don't think the fluid is the issue. I think the slip you feel is because the torque converter lock up characteristics have change due to the valve body mod for RSN. I did mine and drilled the max hole (if some is good, more is better ). No more RSN but 1.5 mpg lower and a perceived slip. Ran it this way for a couple months then pulled it apart and drilled the smallest hole ( .042" I think). Just got back from a 1000 mile road trip, mileage back to 20.05 average, slip feeling gone but a little RSN.

lindenengineering
12-04-2013, 05:08 AM
Have you done a stall test to check for developed line/applied pressure?
Dennis

breakinwind
12-05-2013, 04:51 AM
I don't think the fluid is the issue. I think the slip you feel is because the torque converter lock up characteristics have change due to the valve body mod for RSN. I did mine and drilled the max hole (if some is good, more is better ). No more RSN but 1.5 mpg lower and a perceived slip. Ran it this way for a couple months then pulled it apart and drilled the smallest hole ( .042" I think). Just got back from a 1000 mile road trip, mileage back to 20.05 average, slip feeling gone but a little RSN.


I drilled the smallest hole to begin. I may undo the RSN fix and see. How did you make a smaller hole after already drilling a large? Did you weld the hole closed then re-drill?

So you did have slipping with the large hole? I can deal with the Rumble, rather than slipping. I'm afraid to burn out the tranny.

Dennis, I have not, what is a "stall test to check for developed line/applied pressure?"

The fluid level is correct.

lindenengineering
12-06-2013, 02:35 AM
Doing a Stall Test.
This checks the basic applied pressure to the clutch pack(s) applied in 1st or D or Reverse It also will check the torque converter for a slipping stator which is located inside the unit.
Can be done on any auto transmission but NOT on a CV drive system.

Method.
Start the engine and run it for a short while until its getting warm and revs freely.
Apply the parking brake, apply the foot brake hard like an emergency stop.
Maintain the pressure.

Select 1st or D.
While holding the brake hard down with your left foot----Floor the accelerator (pedal to the metal) with your right.
Observe the rev counter the engine will not rev more than 22/2400 even when held flat out.
If it flares then you have slippage in the applied pack(s) or a torque converter fault.

ONLY do this for about five seconds as the transmission fluid tempo will soar and can do damage if prolonged.

Let it run for several minutes to cool then repeat the procedure in Reverse.

Again the engine revs should not go past the same stall speed as seen in 1st or D.
Go try that and see what transpires!
Cheers Dennis

bbirdxx2000
12-06-2013, 10:45 PM
http://www.lubegard.com/SearchByCategory.aspx?CategoryCode=112&title=LUBEGARD+Automatic+Transmission+Fluid+Protec tant#


this stuff is fantastic. Your problem will be solved:thumbup:

breakinwind
12-07-2013, 03:36 AM
Okay, so an update. I drained transmission and torque converter tonight. Welded the "RSN fix" hole closed. Put her back together with new Fuchs fluid from Europarts-sd.

Did the usual warm up and shifting r-d-r-p- etc...

First impression on road test was, F**K!!! The rumble strip was so severe, it seemed as though the van was going to self destruct, even after a long drive/warm up. BUT, no bad slipping like previously.
After thoroughly warm, I checked fluid levels, perfect.
I checked lindenengineering's method for slippage and it seemed decent, well I thought. The highest RPM reading I got with brakes on was, 2650. Hmm, a little high I think. And same in reverse gear.

Then I thought maybe the TCM needs to adjust to the new pressure without the RSN fix hole. So, i tried driving all different methods. Very low rpm up-shifting, down-shifting, constant throttle, varying throttle, taking off at wide open throttle. The longer I drove it the better the rumble strip got, until it was no longer there. This whole process was over a three hour drive.
Something just didn't seem right though. I could feel/hear an oscillation at around 1600, and at highway speed. It would kind of slip (50rmp flare), then engage;slip and engage, when held at very slight throttle.
Then, it seemed like the turbo shut off. I heard the turbo pop off slightly a few quick times in a row and then, I had very little engine power. I could only make it to 65 mph. Keep in mind I already have the aluminum resonator (eliminator) installed. The MAP would max out at 27psi, usually its at 33-35-ish at full throttle (but it felt like there was zero boost). I drove like this a little longer, then pulled over to restart her (kind of like my Microsoft products).
After restarting, the power was back. Scan-gauge shows no codes.

I drove a little longer and it felt decent, but something just didn't feel right. I kept looking down at my RPM. It didn't drive as it usually did.

After a several hour road test, I called it a night. When I backed into my driveway (Florida, completely flat!) It slipped in reverse (about 3000 rpm). Ugh, what do ya think? Tranny?

Thanks everyone for listening and advice, I LOVE THIS FORUM!!

(my eyes are on the 2014 4cyl Sprinter, if only I wasn't broke.) ;)

breakinwind
12-07-2013, 04:59 AM
I also just noticed this in the Sprinter manual. I wonder if this could be part of issue?

STANDARD PROCEDURE - TCM ADAPTATION
The adaptation procedure requires the use of the
DRBIIIt scan tool. This program allows the electronic
transmission system to re-calibrate itself. This
will provide the proper baseline transmission operation.
The adaptation procedure should be performed
if any of the following procedures are performed:
Transmission Assembly Replacement
Transmission Control Module Replacement
Clutch Plate and/or Seal Replacement
Electrohydraulic Unit Replacement or Recondition
(1) With the DRBIIIt, reset the Transmission
adaptives. Resetting the adaptives will set the adaptives
to factory settings.
NOTE: Perform the Coast Down Adaptations first.
The Transmission Temperature must be greater
than 60C (140F) and less than 70C (158F). Failure
to stay within these temperature ranges will
void the procedure.
(2) Drive the vehicle until the transmission temperature
is in the specified range.
(3) Perform 4 to 5 coast downs from 5th to 4th
gear and then 4th to 3rd gear.
NOTE: For Upshift adaptation, the Transmission
temperature must be greater than 60C (140F) and
less than 100C (212F). Failure to stay within these
temperature ranges will void this procedure.
(4) From a stop, moderately accelerate the vehicle
and obtain all forward gear ranges while keeping the
Engine RPM below 1800 RPM. Repeat this procedure
4 to 5 times.
(5) Obtaining 5th gear may be difficult at 1800
RPM. Allow the transmission to shift into 5th gear at
a higher RPM then lower the RPM to 1800 and perform
manual shifts between 4th and 5th gears using
the shift lever.
(6) The TCM will store the adaptives every 10
minutes. After completion of the adaptation procedure
make sure the vehicle stays running for at least
10 minutes.
(7) It is possible to manually store the adaptives
under the 10 minute time frame using the DRBIIIt
Store Adaptives procedure.