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caspervan
12-02-2013, 07:10 PM
Has anyone experience in removing the head while the engine is still in the truck? Depending on the outcome of my compression test, I am planning to replace a piston/rings and hope to do this by dropping the oil pan and pulling the head while the engine remains in the truck.
Can it be done?

Dingo
12-02-2013, 07:34 PM
To give a bit more room , simply remove the flexible mounts & sit sump on cross member to give more clearance .

Lift engine & put mounts back once head is off & you can remove sump for other jobs you need to perform .

Then it's sump on , mounts out , head on , mounts back in & bolted , not forgetting the fiddly bits in between

Boater
12-03-2013, 12:53 AM
Also get some heavy angle or box section and make your own spreader beam to shackle directly to the end of the hoist and to the lifting eyes on the head to keep the jewellery as compact as possible. If you use chains or a fancy engine leveller you will run out of clearance above just taking up the slack!

Dougflas
12-03-2013, 01:57 AM
How about some pictures?

lindenengineering
12-03-2013, 04:56 AM
Has anyone experience in removing the head while the engine is still in the truck? Depending on the outcome of my compression test, I am planning to replace a piston/rings and hope to do this by dropping the oil pan and pulling the head while the engine remains in the truck.
Can it be done?

Sorry to be so negative--But what a lot of bloody hard work! Why make life difficult? :thinking:

First you have to raise the engine complete with the transmission attached to get the pan down and out. In short the oil pick up tube has to be detached to slide the pan out. A chore by itself with the power pack dangling on a chain and your arm in the gap between block and pan . Can be dangerous! Then you have to work around the suspension K frame to pull out the pistons etc etc.

Since you are going to have to remove the exhaust manifolds and unclip the harness etc in any case; much better to spend your time wisely by disconnecting the prop and drawing the engine forward so that it sits "half in half out" on a stand at the front and the transmission sat on the K frame. Then you have full access to the pan by lifting the front off the stand , lots of room on the head, and easy clean out of the block as you will most certainly have to glaze bust for a re-ring and wash out the bores with warm soapy water to remove grit etc and dry with compressed air.

For a total rework we remove the whole power pack, But doing an "in frame" is really a "half out frame" and my Mexican mechs can have the whole thing ready for me to lift the head and do "my thing" in 5 hours flat with the pan down. Andele pues!:thumbup:

Consider how its done in Mexico! These Latinos have been working on Sprinters far longer than Gringos and can spin wrenches I wager faster than most. They are the only mechs who can meet most factory flat rate repair times in my experience,
Good workers, but need more of them, real good 'uns are in short supply nowadays.

Seriously don't fart about in Casper Wy! Do it like in Jalisco/Guadalajara!:thumbup:
You will be better for it, 'cos I hate struggling, I bet you do too!

Now some music---Hmm how's about some Mariachi? Si :thumbup: O No!:thumbdown:


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kyv4C9bQkQM

Best of luck, but again seriously consider doing it the Mexican way.

Dennis
El Ingles.