View Full Version : Any Consensus on Odds of Turbo Hose Failure?

11-03-2013, 02:58 PM
Somehow I only heard about the issue a few days ago for the first time. So now I've read the write-ups and have the info from Riordanco and have two questions.
How common has the end of hose crack been among users here?
How common is a blown hose not at an end?
I'm willing to gamble, but it sounds like only carrying a new hose with two alloy adapters as well as the new clamps for a total of $400 is a guarantee of salvaging a trip, and that only covers this one particular possibility of mechanical failure.
Then again a new hose alone would be a guarantee unless of course the end cracked before the return home, while just an adapter or two would not save a truly blown hose .
What are you guys doing ?

11-03-2013, 03:43 PM
As a broad consensus. A life of 100K is about right for items made of rubber/mould fabric.

Hence hoses, belts, tensioners, and suchlike are subject to failure after that mileage.
If you consult almost any manufacturers' service recommendations they are almost in sync with that maxim.

Most of the world's hoses, belts, tensionsers etc are made by just a few big players.

11-03-2013, 03:50 PM
I depends on the year model of your NCV3 as to whether you need the Riordanco turbo hose adapters or not.
Dodge/Freightliner '07-'09 models probably need to have the adapters.
Mercedes/Freightliner NCV3's 2010 and later do not need them as the hoses are longer, and the end of hose receptacle was redesigned to take care of this problem with the early NCV3 V6's AFAIK.
I've only ever had 2010 and later genuine Mercedes, and never had any sort of problem, but then I never had any issue with the TR in my 2006 dodge T1N. Probably because I drive them differently, using the Scan Gauge II (or similar) to keep the % of LOD/Boost/Fueling rate as low as possible.

11-03-2013, 04:13 PM
Mine's a 2008 so definitely one of those that have had the problem.
I'm just wondering how common it was before spending the $.
If I decided to preventively swap out the hose at say 100,000 miles I would put the adapters on both ends, so maybe I'll just buy the hose and adapters now and carry them, knowing I will eventually install them even without a failure. Still a big expense considering anything can happen to the vehicle (or myself!) before that time.

11-03-2013, 06:02 PM
Mine seemed to be in "like" new condition when I pulled them on my 2005 t1n this week.

I was amazed. Maybe someone already did them at the 100,000 mile mark?

Aqua Puttana
11-04-2013, 12:45 PM
I don't own a NCV3 and have no experience with them.

There were at one time some posts of hoses popping off. More recently should that happen now it is likely related to hose clamps not being secured properly.

The hose adapters add extra joints. I recall a comment that hose adapters are a "solution looking for a problem".

From my recollection the hose design has beed updated so if you purchase new hoses they should be fine. Spend your money as you wish though.


P.S. - Concensus is a rare thing on this, and most any other forum.

11-04-2013, 12:54 PM
If the new hoses for the older V6 have been updated/modified and no longer benefit from the adapter than it's simple......I'll just purchase a new hose to carry and at 100,000 put it on anyways.
I read that in the write-up about the alloy adapters being a solution looking for a problem, I thought it referred the original clamps for the adapters not being capable of tightening enough and that with the newer clamp that problem was solved.

Aqua Puttana
11-04-2013, 01:14 PM
... I thought it referred the original clamps for the adapters not being capable of tightening enough and that with the newer clamp that problem was solved.
That wasn't my interpretation, but I'm only a parrot. For my interpretation perhaps "a solution looking for a reason or design deficiency" would be more accurate. vic

11-09-2013, 02:54 PM
I've decided to purchase the replacement hose to carry, and after 100,000 miles I will swap it out anyways even if it hasn't failed.
Is this the correct hose?
Is there a difference between this one and one I would get from the Mercedes or Dodge dealership?

11-10-2013, 03:44 AM
There is a post regarding the shape of the old and new NCV3 hoses.
The newer hoses have a larger U curve.
Some of the 2008 models got the newer hose.
My 2008 has the newer hose as OEM.
You may have a newer hose as well.

Thanks to JDCaples!!

11-10-2013, 12:27 PM
I'll check it out today, with any luck maybe I'll already have the new one, never realized that any '08's did!

11-10-2013, 09:43 PM
Mine has the old one, so I'm going to order the new one I posted the link to. I'll just carry it for now, til I hit 100,000 mi. and swap it out. Of course now I'm guaranteed of never getting the crack on route, right?

11-10-2013, 09:46 PM
Change it out now and avoid the rush.:thumbup:

11-10-2013, 10:35 PM
Yeah, I've thought of that too.
So my newest question......I'm on the site ordering it along with some filters etc. and now I'm wondering if I need to order the charger hose ring seal as well: http://europarts-sd.com/item.asp?PID=2158
Is it included in the hose or is this an item I also need to order?

11-10-2013, 10:44 PM
Call Euro and discuss the options, pay for shipping once.

11-11-2013, 12:27 AM
I emailed 'em Mrdi, hope they respond.

11-11-2013, 02:24 AM
I emailed 'em Mrdi, hope they respond.

Oh they will, excellent to deal with. I have 180000 on my 08 pretty sure the crap house mechanics at Ryder never changed the hoses, have spares though. No adapters for awhile see no need initially. Also believe seals rings etc come with hoses but check with Steve of course first!

11-11-2013, 01:02 PM
Just realized you're local Trayscott. (I'm at Cass Lake)
How many miles were on yours when you bought it?
Have you used a good non-dealership Sprinter mechanic in SE MI for anything?

11-22-2013, 07:39 PM
I've read all the posts on this issue, but cannot come to a conclusion. My 2008 is suffering the 'no acceleration' issue, and I assume the Turbo hose connection is the issue (hoping it's this simple). It drives fine, and gets up to 65 / 70 miles on the freeway, but no quicker acceleration if passing someone or up a slight rise, even if going much slower. Seems to stay at 2,000 revs. If I shift out of drive to 4th or 3rd, I get the revs up and it picks up speed on the inclines. BUT, I have no malfunction, or check engine light showing? This also just happened out of the blue. Drove it one day fine, and now this. Is this normal?

I looked under the engine at this hose on the drivers side. I have the newer longer hose on there (with the question mark look referenced in other posts). No obvious cracks or splits, but if I feel it and move it around the top connection moves a bit back and forth. It has a spring clip of some type, so I can not tighten it, but I would assume that if a small crack and cause issues, then the attachment should be pretty tight? To give more detail, if I look up form the ground at the top connection, it looks like a metal compression section is rocking back and forth inside it's metal housing. Hope this makes sense.

So can folks confirm;

1. with the symptoms and no malfunction or engine light showing is it this issue?
2. Will it harm the vehicle to drive another 600 miles (I am away from home)
3. Should the connection have any movement?

11-23-2013, 09:25 PM
Europarts got right back with me and told me the ring was included. The hose and filters I also ordered came just a few days after ordering, so as usual I'm very pleased with their service as well as tech support. I'll take my FL trip in Dec with the old hose, and probably swap it out after that. I'm a gambler I guess, at least I'll have the new hose with me and it shouldn't take any special expertise to swap it out if the need arises. Why not just do it now prophylactically?
Maybe because it's 10 degrees F outside with the windchill and my garage doors are 7 footers?

Aqua Puttana
11-23-2013, 09:57 PM
Since nobody has answered yet...
So can folks confirm;

1. with the symptoms and no malfunction or engine light showing is it this issue?
Not necessarily. There is some history of poor operation, with no MIL lit, being traced to EGR issues. There can be many things.

2. Will it harm the vehicle to drive another 600 miles (I am away from home)
If there isn't any smoking and it's running smoothly, then it likely won't hurt anything.

I believe it has been mentioned that running in LHM can suppress DPF regenerations. If that happens (the MIL will trigger) then you may need to have a manual regen initiated by a dealership before the DTC and light will clear.

I'm just repeating what I recall.

3. Should the connection have any movement?
My T1N hose will move a bit. The rubber O-ring seals by interference fit to the polished inside diameter so a bit of in/out movement shouldn't affect the seal (side torque isn't good though).

:2cents: vic

01-06-2014, 01:44 AM
Looks like I won't be needing it, or the filters, wiper blades, etc.
Anyone local (Detroit area) who wants my stuff let me know.

01-09-2014, 09:54 PM
OK, no local takers. I'm picking up the rest of my stuff that's now stored in Marathon FL 2'nd half of Feb. Anybody wants the stuff can meet me there, or else I'll haul it home and ship to whomever wants to pay the shipping.
Anyone that wants to haul out my Sportsmobile Gaucho and or custom aluminum bunks from the junk yard along with the two fantastic fans and two Atwood screened awning windows can act as my agent during the next couple of days while its still at the yard and have the stuff.