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View Full Version : DS window goes down but not up. Also won't stay up.


Coast2Coast
10-05-2013, 02:57 PM
I heard a big pop the other day inside the door card when using the window. I'm guessing I broke that white plastic piece. The window will sometimes work but about 90% of the time doesn't work. I have to push it up to the top, about a 30 seconds of driving and hitting bumps it lowers itself a good half inch to 2 inches. You can push it up or down. I hope I can fix it today! The weather is starting to get cold :hmmm:

By the looks of this thread it sounds like I may have same problem, let's hope so. Looks like a trip to Home Depot today :)

http://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=14821

jmoller99
10-07-2013, 08:04 PM
I made an aluminum part to resolve this (with lots of grease in the channel where this part moves back and forth. Sorry, No picture, however, I may make up a few more since I have the old broken part to get the sizes right. I suspect the part may break in my Sprinter, so I want to be prepared.

Coast2Coasts Sprinter windows are working fine now.

gflu
10-29-2014, 10:28 PM
Same thing happened on my 2006. The plastic slider that attaches the motor arm to the horizontal window channel is a common problem. They snap in half, making that popping sound, and then, the window goes down, but not up.

Unless you want to buy a whole new motor armature ($250) you'll have to figure out a DIY fix. This is what I did using some parts from Home Depot.

1. remove the riveted axle from the end of the armature
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-197qN_UVWXg/VFFmg6sRFxI/AAAAAAAAXQg/pkb2Tip9K6s/w346-h615/IMG_20141025_114532230_HDR.jpg



2. Replace the riveted axle with a 1/4" bolt. 3/8" long is perfect.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-gHVeS8NocLo/VFFoNf9sE0I/AAAAAAAAXRk/y5SHxjBGyKg/w346-h615/IMG_20141025_131420150_HDR.jpg


3. slide a T-nut into the channel and screw the 1/4" bolt into the t-nut. I also put some lock tight on the threads and used a lock washer between the arm and the t-nut.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-nwhTnMiK7ZE/VFFoSraeO7I/AAAAAAAAXR8/AeVvRg6bJA4/w346-h615/IMG_20141025_131357133_HDR.jpg


4. Test it to make sure it clears the upper metal interior frame.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-NtFoQHJiUyg/VFFoVyZhGBI/AAAAAAAAXSg/ir4lGX_OPaM/w346-h615/IMG_20141025_131345026_HDR.jpg

The bolt head is a little bit large and it scrapes the inside of the door panel at the bottom of its journey south. You could grind down the bolt head about 50% but that was too much surgery for me.

This cost about $4 bucks and an hour of labor. Maybe 2 hours if you have to go to Home Depot twice.

wendelltu
12-13-2014, 07:06 AM
Low budget no major tools field repair.

If you still want a nylon to metal glide for this part. In the screen door roller section the part is a 7/8" tub enclosure roller.

Home Depot Sku #049793060020. (comes with 2 wheels and screws) $2.78

You really don't want this to roll because of the way the mechanics of what it is doing are. Flattening the Wheel will do more of an OEM job and give more surface area to hold the window up when it is closed.

So grab a sheet of course sand paper and rub the wheel against it until the plastic is flat down to the metal washer. then rotate it and rub the opposite side. The metal washer is your size guide. Hold it at an angle so it thins out a bit while flattening.

The finished part looks like an oval with two flat sides. Thin it out a bit with the sandpaper until it fits nicely into the window track.

Hack saw the old metal part off of the arm if you leave about 1/8 inch on there it gives a natural spacer..

Drill a hole the same size as the shower roller screw right through the arm where the old metal tab was cut off.

Slide flattened shower roller in the track and bolt it to the arm.

Grease it up real good and it will last until the poor little screw in the middle wears out.

IDK my shower door probably has 10,000 cycles on it and gets wet every day and isn't broken so this little fix might last nearly forever.

Put the roller in the track and screw it to the arm.

Directions for removing door panel. Tools Torx #30 Screwdriver or a small torx socket that fits on a 1/4" ratchet with an extension. (the screw is set way down in the handle and a big one wont work)
1. Pull off the window trim above the door panel. Grab and pull straight toward the front of the vehicle.
2. Pull door handle trim off of the grab handle. Then gently pull up on the window switch trim. This exposes both of the screws that retain the door.
3. Loosen screws then lift up on the door panel. Comes right off.
4. Don't bother removing wiring or the panel just prop it up while working you will have to run the window motor up and down while doing the work.

If you want you can grease the regulator gear and spray some dry lube on the felt down in the door where it guides the window. The reduced friction makes the motor run faster.

If the other window isn't broken yet take the door panel off and grease up that plastic piece also so you don't have to fix it later. It doesn't break unless it binds up.