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tooldye
10-04-2013, 08:01 PM
Hi Folks,
I have a newish 2006 and the instrument panel lights (in the dash, behind the steering wheel) have not worked since I got it. All of the warning lights and everything else seems to be in working order, I just can't see them at night. I've searched the forum, but have yet to find an answer and I haven't figured out which fuse it is, either. Anybody have any suggestions?
Thanks!

autostaretx
10-04-2013, 08:46 PM
There are two fuses that feed the instrument cluster. (IC)
One is in Fuse Block 1 (steering column, mine is Fuse 10), and the other is somewhere on Fuse Block 2 (each Sprinter is different... mine is fuse 3)
Based upon my labels, the Fuse Block 1 fuse handles lighting.
But: the lighting is really handled by the computer chip on the IC circuit card, and that sub-circuit may be damaged/blown.
Also verify that the IC socket simply hasn't come a bit loose... perhaps pull and reseat it to clean the contacts.

You can get the service manual from http://aie-services-2.net/Sprinter/2006-VA-SM.pdf

good luck, please report results
--dick

bc339
10-04-2013, 10:40 PM
I hate to ask the obvious, but have you tried pushing the + on the instrument panel to increase the brightness?

Bruce

ECU
10-05-2013, 12:21 AM
Do your hi-beams works? How about twisting the turn signal handle counter-clockwise.
My guess is that you have daylight driving lights. On whenever the engine is on. But this only turns on the outside lights, not the dash.

tooldye
12-12-2013, 02:42 AM
Well, it has been a while and I didn't really start driving my van again until recently. The fuse in the steering column (block 1 fuse 10) was blown. Replaced that and found that that's the same circuit that runs to the license plate lights. Worked for a while and then blew again.
I do not have daytime running lights.
If it will warm up just a few degrees, I will attack it and start exploring again.
the lighting is really handled by the computer chip on the IC circuit card, and that sub-circuit may be damaged/blown.
Been reading the manual but can't find the location of the IC circuit card. Any idea where that is, dick?

Aqua Puttana
12-12-2013, 01:47 PM
You may find that the license plate light sockets have crumbled and a wire is shorting. The lamps are way hot in that confined space.

Not that you asked... some additional info.

Removing the license plate lamp assemblies without damage

IMHO this does qualify as a real Stoopid Thing. That said, it may be covered in the operators manual under lighting.

I needed to remove the 2 ea. license plate lamp assemblies on my NAFTA 2004 T1N to grind away the rust under the paint. Molded into each end of the black plastic assemblies is a nice little screw driver slot. It looks easy to just pop out the assembly to change a lamp.:clapping:

Except for this little problem.:thumbdown: On the left side (facing the unit) there is a spring loaded clip that will release when a small blade is pushed in which then allows the plastic assembly to pivot down. The problem is that if you start by prying on the right side, it has no clip and will not release. What is worse is that you may chip away the paint by trying that end first. Like I did. :bash: Fortunately(?) for me the paint was already bad..... I mean terrible on my vehicle. The slot on the "no clip" right side serves no real purpose I can see. Once the other correct side is released, the unit pivots down with no prying necessary on the right side.

There is no indication that I could see to direct you to the left side. (OK. Maybe they mention it in the owners manual?) Until the unit is removed the spring clip is well hidden. Hope this does some good. AP/vic

2010/06/14 edit - I discovered there are different wattage lamps in the style which fits the license plate socket. I found 5 watt, 10 watt, and 20 watt sizes. I believe you want to use the smallest wattage because there is no place for the heat go. I recommend a 6418LL style lamp. It is 13.5 volt/5W so it will have less heat.

those plate lights are just crap ive broken mine and it keeps falling out, on the same subject of those pesky lights if you remove the rear door cover you will see black marks just above were the heat from the bulbs rises so if your doing any insulation keep the heat those bulbs make in mind.
max...............:2cents:

Max,
I gotta agree. My left light had a spring contact that was partially melted.

19317

Here's the spring contact removed:

19318

I replaced it with a modified Ohmite wire wound power resistor spring type standoff I had hanging around. Mostly because it was easier than chasing down a light unit, not because it's a better solution.

19319


I don't generally feel the LED lamp replacements are worth the extra cost unless power consumption is a priority. In this case LED replacements might be a good investment to keep the loads on the clips and heating under control. Thanks for the additional info. AP/vic

2010/06/14 edit - I discovered there are different wattage lamps in the style which fits the license plate socket. I found 5 watt, 10 watt, and 20 watt sizes. I believe you want to use the smallest wattage because there is no place for the heat go. I recommend a 6418LL style lamp. It is 13.5 volt/5W so it will have less heat.

20181019 edit - I tried using LED's for the license plate lamps. I found that the lower current made them susceptible to making bad contact and being intermittent. To avoid being pulled over for a stupid license plate lamp I went back to the 5 watt incandescent lamps.

As always clicking the blue arrow icon within the quote box will take you to the original post/thread. In this case it will include pictures.

Another related post is here.

http://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?p=260995&highlight=license#post260995

vic

autostaretx
12-12-2013, 05:07 PM
Been reading the manual but can't find the location of the IC circuit card. Any idea where that is, dick?
The IC circuit card is the entire instrument panel.

--dick

856
10-19-2018, 01:57 AM
Thank you Aqua Puttana you put me on the trail of my license plate lights blowing out my instrument cluster fuse on my 2006 Dodge Sprinter Cargo. I was able to verify the plate lights were causing the problem by leaving my back door open, so they weren't connected, as soon as I closed my door, the fuse blew. In my case, it turns out that my plate light wiring had been installed backward by a body shop so that they positive side of the wiring at the plate lights grounded out against the body, I switched my door wiring at the plate that hooks to the main van body when the door is closed and all seems well.

mishak
11-10-2018, 10:10 PM
So I have a similar problem: no license plate lights and no instrument cluster lights, BUT, my fuses are NOT blown. I think the problem started when I was under the driver's seat, pulling a relay and I shorted something, but it was years ago and I don't remember anything else about it.

Any ideas?

Bobnoxious
11-11-2018, 12:45 AM
So I have a similar problem: no license plate lights and no instrument cluster lights, BUT, my fuses are NOT blown. I think the problem started when I was under the driver's seat, pulling a relay and I shorted something, but it was years ago and I don't remember anything else about it.

Any ideas?

What year, check grounding lugs? Particularly G203. Give it a tickle.

Aqua Puttana
11-11-2018, 12:29 PM
The instrument/dash area and the reverse lights have no commonality as to grounds.

There may be a common splice for the power feed to the various lights though.

Has the fuse been checked for continuity? Has the line and load side of the fuse while installed been tested for power?

:cheers: vic