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Chris Francis
09-22-2013, 09:27 PM
I bought a used 2004 T1N 140" SHC for $1,000.  Roll-em-down-yourself windows and lock-em-yourself doors.  It was not running.  Has ~250,000 miles.  Turn key, dash lights up, radiator fan comes on.  No noise from starter.  I put a brand new battery in it.  Someone has removed the muffler and catalytic converter (are there sensors there?  Can I use the extra muffler I already have that fits an F-250 gas V8?)  The TCM was wet; I assumed it was water, but now read that it is likely transmission fluid.  All fuses good except the one to blinkers/flashers, which do not work; and new fuse there blows instantly.  Top of engine covered in black crust - I believe this is what is referred to as Black Death.  AC only blows on high and only comes out of the defrost.  Stereo is missing (should only be relevant if something is shorting out there).  White.  Needs a paint job, but that can wait.  Will be white again.  Has windows in sliding door and rear doors.  Rest is solid.  I bought it right, so I can afford to pump some money into it, but don't really want to throw parts and money at it just to see if something sticks.  My next move was to send the ECU, SKREEM immobilizer, and key to SOS Diagnostics to get them to check it out and make me a few keys.  I would like to avoid the dealership now and in the future.  It is supposed to be a Freightliner, but is missing the badges, so I figured I would go ahead and make it a Mercedes, but I'm nowhere near that point yet.  Also, before putting it on the road, I plan to make some modifications, including:

- New tires (am I stuck with the stock size?)
- Toilet (possibly free-standing or squeezed in closet)
- Rear AC (window unit, portable, or roof top)
- Generator (where, oh where? Enclosure?  I was thinking a sealed compartment with large vent(s) for stealth or pull-out tray for campground.  Honda EU2000 or EU3000).  Can't afford the diesel one, though the Onan RV models may work better in the cabinet. 
- Mattress/Sleeping platform (nothing fancy).  Thinking up high.  
- Shelves and storage
- Exterior compartment for chemicals and sprayers (I don't want to breathe that stuff inside the van.  How to construct such a sealed area?  I was thinking of using a "door" from a utility/service truck, and making a sealed box.
- Rear view camera (for backing and normal driving)
- Hitch w/ 2" receiver and brake controller and 7-way RV lights.
- Inverter to run AC etc... when under way or provide power when genny craps out.  And yes, I know not to let it idle too long.    


I plan to have a small flip-up or -down desk for doing paperwork in AC.  It gets hot and humid here in south Alabama.  Toilet is a must.  I'm trying to load up the driver's side with storage and such, leaving the passenger side open to walk and/or carry big tools, fertilizer, etc...  Am I creating a weight balance issue if the right side is empty?  There is a plastic divider in place behind cab, long window, and no access; wondering if I will need to create an access door.  I will be storing tools in the van, as well as a step ladder and an extension ladder.  These should fit under the "bed".  I would like the option to put a longer extension ladder and God knows what else on the roof with some sort of rack or holder.        
How about an extra seat in the middle between the two front seats?

That's about all for now.

2004 SHC 2500

pfflyer
09-22-2013, 10:50 PM
Welcome to the forum. Only advise I have for you is to search this forum and consult with Doctor A. I took a chance on my first Sprinter as well and it turned out well and hope yours does too. Mine was a 02 with 387k on the clock. With the exception of the white mildew and water stains on the headliner from the windshield leaking the interior looked like it only had 20k. Exterior hadn't been washed in quite a while but body was straight and only a few minor dings. Key fob didn't lock and unlock the doors as it should( when I sold it it was locking better than when I bought it but still not right). The big ticket item was the rear end, it made such loud noise I had to wear ear plugs to drive it. After rebuilt rear end and all fluids changed and full service had a $7,000 investment and ended up selling it for $7k after 30k+ miles later. You might want to make sure the tranny is good because that could put a big dent in your rehab budget. Keep us informed on your progress.

ECU
09-22-2013, 11:21 PM
rollup Windows and manual locks, likely no key fob either. no reason to send out a key with ECU for anything.

Chris Francis
09-23-2013, 12:26 AM
rollup Windows and manual locks, likely no key fob either. no reason to send out a key with ECU for anything.


My key does have a chip. And I do have a SKREEM. I'm green, but all my reading tells me that all of these have the chip and immobilizer. SOS says to send the immobilizer, the key, and the ECU so they can sync everything. And they can replace everything for about what the dealer wants just to look at it. Wondering if the TCM has anything to do with it. Man I wish it would hook up to an OBD scanner. Plugs in, but says cannot communicate.

ECU
09-23-2013, 02:34 AM
Wow, I didn't think there were different versions of 'stripped down.' I have the windows and door locks manual and have a simple/dumb key.

MikeHowe
09-23-2013, 07:26 AM
I don't know much about the other issues you've mentioned but the black death (crust on top of the engine) needs to be dealt with immediately. My case of black death was discovered (due to total ignorance on my part) much too late and resulted in a corroded head, which in turn resulted in a hefty repair bill.

You need to clean off all the black crud (oven cleaner works very well) and then identify which injectors it's coming from. They then need to be removed, cleaned up, the wells need cleaning and recutting etc...search for threads on details of how to do all this, there are many.

You also need to ensure that the black crud hasn't damaged the fuel return line and all the other fittings on top of the injector valley, and also the camshaft position sensor is in there too (at least it is on mine) and that, with its associated wiring is probably caked in crud as well.

Hope that helps. Sounds like a great project as long as you're happy to take on all the jobs. Good luck, Mike

Chris Francis
09-23-2013, 10:56 AM
I don't know much about the other issues you've mentioned but the black death (crust on top of the engine) needs to be dealt with immediately. My case of black death was discovered (due to total ignorance on my part) much too late and resulted in a corroded head, which in turn resulted in a hefty repair bill.

You need to clean off all the black crud (oven cleaner works very well) and then identify which injectors it's coming from. They then need to be removed, cleaned up, the wells need cleaning and recutting etc...search for threads on details of how to do all this, there are many.

You also need to ensure that the black crud hasn't damaged the fuel return line and all the other fittings on top of the injector valley, and also the camshaft position sensor is in there too (at least it is on mine) and that, with its associated wiring is probably caked in crud as well.

Hope that helps. Sounds like a great project as long as you're happy to take on all the jobs. Good luck, Mike

I plan to clean that area while waiting in the computer to be sent back. But I don't want to put in too much time and energy until I know it will turn over. If it is locked up, I have to rethink this and possibly replace the engine.

Boater
09-23-2013, 11:48 AM
Depending on your intended timeline, I would probably tackle the black death first and see what condition the injectors/sensors/cylinder head are in so you can estimate the costs for that before pouring money into getting the immobiliser sorted out just in case it doesn't make financial sense to do it. Having said that, if you can do the work yourself, particularly the black death clean up it will lower the cost quite a bit.

Practically speaking a diesel should be fine without a cat but you will need to know about your local emissions and related laws. In Europe there is some odd requirement for using type approved cats when repairing exhaust systems on vehicles from 2001 onwards, even if the original cat wouldn't have been type approved, I don't know what state or federal requirements you would have - although this emissions stuff started in the US I think Europe takes it further than most states, although no-one takes it as far as CA. I'm sure the US T1N guys have mentioned lambda (oxygen) sensors in the past so there might be one of those at the cat?

A/C only blowing high (presumably whether using A/C or just fresh air?) is generally a blown fuse on the blower motor resistor, have a look for related threads, you can do a pretty easy fix for a couple of dollars rather than replacing the entire resistor pack as the manufacturer intended. Like all blown fuses investigating the reason is sensible, the blower motor is under the air scoop insde the hood (with the crossed out water hose sticker on it) and one cause which I have had myself is the motor carbon brushes wearing out (replacements are cheap, the flexible tail needs to be soldered but that's not difficult). Others have found that where water has entered over the years the motor bearings are rusty or not rotating as freely as possible - 12v (usually more like 12.6V) is enough to get it spinning, but any of the lower voltages from the settings that use the resistor pack can't get the motor moving and then the resisor pack overheats and blows it's fuse. Both conditions are fixable or you can replace the motor.

Tyres are a sore point in the US, there are only a few options and loads of discussions!

Sealed compartment for chemicals and sprayers is an interesting one. There is a bit of tumblehome to a sprinter side so getting a door to fit well may be tricky and require fabrication of a recessed frame? Would it be acceptable to build the compartment just inside one of the rear doors with it's own door to seal it from the interior - you would have to open the rear door to open the compartment door so would always have ventilation when putting stuff in and out, but I guess if it blows into the interior and lingers that won't be good. If you don't have windows in the rear doors you could arrange the rear similarly to my race van - have a part height vertical bulkhead somewhere in the rear, with the high level bed platform mounted on top over the chemical compartment, and then another bulkhead up to the roof just inside the door (maybe set a few inches forward to provide full height hanging space). This basically creates an entirely separate rear cargo/tool/chemical store only accessible via the rear doors, but also means the rear doors only access that space. By taking the bed over the top you don't waste the full height of the van. My lower bulkhead is about 2m/6' forward of the rear doors to fit a motorbike(s) (originally, I use it for a kite buggy), which also makes for a decent length double bed (there is a short extension panel to put in place at the forward end), I'm guessing you don't need a compartment that big, maybe put it immediately behind the wheel arches? You would then need a longer extension, but if you only want a single bed you could use the other side for office storage or something (only very short people can sleep transeversely in a sprinter, most of us will need to run the bed longitudinally). In fact a lot of the smarter commercially converted race vans only make the rear compartment half width under the bed and use the other side for the toilet - it means the other rear door opens almost directly to the bulkhead for the toilet compartment but again this can be used as a hanging space, or somewhere to mount a water heater or something. Have a look at http://www.scsporthomes.com/sporttourer.php - click on layout options and try to see how the half garage version works. Can't find any photos of the rear of a half garage version right now, all the ones on ebay UK (http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_odkw=race+van&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.Xsprinter+rac e+van&_nkw=sprinter+race+van&_sacat=0) seem to be full garage ones (a couple may be half garage but they haven't photographed them very well) - remember they are all UK so everything is on the opposite side to what you expect.

As for balancing the weight out, I have to admit the cabinets in mine are behind the drivers seat and I normally travel on my own, but I think if I had designed it rather than just bought it already converted I would try to even the transverse permanent weight distribution out a bit better (hmm, my drivers side spring is broken - coincidence?).

I realise this is getting long, but my final tip would be for rear view camera - Sony make a nice HD camera which is available with a couple of different lenses. I bought (in the UK) a twin camera which is basically 2 of the Sony's fitted to a double bracket, independantly adjustable, so I have the one with the narrower field if view pointing rearwards to use as rear view device, and the wider one pointing downwards showing the rear step along the bottom of the screen (to both corners) and the blind spot for several feet behind the van. The monitor has 3 inputs (only using 2) and can be made to switch to an input when it senses power on an auxiliary cable with that input - for the downward camera I have that aux cable hooked up to the reverse light circuit so the monitor switches to that camera when I engage reverse gear, the rest of the time it shows me a more general rear view. The combo works great!

d_bertko
09-23-2013, 12:52 PM
Interesting bargain. I'm guessing the truck has not seen much road salt. Cheap enough that a substantial repair budget would be justified. I also highly recommend Herr Dr Bittenbinder. He is 500 miles from me but I fit in a stop on any long distance travel in his direction. Worth considering towing to PA.

A single eu2000i is a maybe for starting some roof air conditioners. Lots of folks like paired eu2000's because they're so much lighter than a eu3000i. And you can always bring just one in cooler weather if you need the power. Definitely worth considering foaming the van if you ain't plugging in to shore power. My heat load is about half the btus of an uninsulated van.

I get by without air conditioning and find 4 house batteries and a 2000w inverter can be kept up off the 150a alternator alone. Total electric "inside" kitchen. Always nice to not have to run a gennie more than necessary. But too difficult to displace any air conditioning gennie use.

I have a plumber's propane locker installed in my 02 158". It has room for up to a 40lb cylinder but I use it with a 20 lb bbq tank and glad to have the lockable extra space. I had considered building my own locker since floor and side venting and a door gasket are not rocket science. But I also have a Contico "portable work box" that looks to latch airtight. And almost any kind of latching cooler should also be airtight if you needed to divide the weight. Too much work to think about the curved sides of the van.

We went with a Portapotti for several years. My wife now finds a "feminine funnel" quite acceptable and that allows for pee bottles for most occasions. We have a "wag-bag" style set up for the other and use that about once or twice a month on the road. No odor, no water use, no tanks and no cleaning works well for us.

I'd skip the re-badging since the MB logo will only attract miscreants who think you're a richer target than you are.

Good luck,

Dan

Chris Francis
09-23-2013, 01:27 PM
Interesting bargain. I'm guessing the truck has not seen much road salt. Cheap enough that a substantial repair budget would be justified. I also highly recommend Herr Dr Bittenbinder. He is 500 miles from me but I fit in a stop on any long distance travel in his direction. Worth considering towing to PA.

A single eu2000i is a maybe for starting some roof air conditioners. Lots of folks like paired eu2000's because they're so much lighter than a eu3000i. And you can always bring just one in cooler weather if you need the power. Definitely worth considering foaming the van if you ain't plugging in to shore power. My heat load is about half the btus of an uninsulated van.

I get by without air conditioning and find 4 house batteries and a 2000w inverter can be kept up off the 150a alternator alone. Total electric "inside" kitchen. Always nice to not have to run a gennie more than necessary. But too difficult to displace any air conditioning gennie use.

I have a plumber's propane locker installed in my 02 158". It has room for up to a 40lb cylinder but I use it with a 20 lb bbq tank and glad to have the lockable extra space. I had considered building my own locker since floor and side venting and a door gasket are not rocket science. But I also have a Contico "portable work box" that looks to latch airtight. And almost any kind of latching cooler should also be airtight if you needed to divide the weight. Too much work to think about the curved sides of the van.

We went with a Portapotti for several years. My wife now finds a "feminine funnel" quite acceptable and that allows for pee bottles for most occasions. We have a "wag-bag" style set up for the other and use that about once or twice a month on the road. No odor, no water use, no tanks and no cleaning works well for us.

I'd skip the re-badging since the MB logo will only attract miscreants who think you're a richer target than you are.

Good luck,

Dan

I would love to see some photos of that storage locker. Thanks.

Chris Francis
09-23-2013, 01:30 PM
Wow, I didn't think there were different versions of 'stripped down.' I have the windows and door locks manual and have a simple/dumb key.

I thought the same thing, but if you look on the side of that key, you will see a very small rectangle that is a slightly different color. As inserted into the key slot, it will be "facing" the ignition hole. At least that is where mine is.

ECU
09-23-2013, 02:23 PM
This is my key.
54669
I don't see what you describe.

MillionMileSprinter
09-23-2013, 04:32 PM
This is my key.
54669
I don't see what you describe.

That is a non-chipped key. If you take that black plastic off the key, you'll find...
key. No chip. :rolleyes:

You'll also find that the hole that the ring goes through is significantly larger than normal to make room for the plastic.
:hmmm: very interesting. I guess your ECM has the SKREEM function disabled. Do you have the sensor ring around the ignition where you insert the key? Is it wired up? Who owned your van before you?

Oilburner
09-23-2013, 04:47 PM
What is this on the left side of the key?

ECU
09-23-2013, 05:54 PM
I don't know what is under the plastic shroud. It is shaped the same as other sprinters. I don't think the previous owner modified anything. He had it for only sixteen months and did 300,000 miles. All the keys are the same, I found at least four. Most looked completely unused. I think it was used to transport pot up from Mexico, registered in Scottsdale, AZ. Did a lot of dirt driving.
I think that is a bed bug.

d_bertko
09-23-2013, 07:10 PM
I would love to see some photos of that storage locker. Thanks.

Here's a pic of the plumber's propane locker about to be installed. It came with a floor vent fitting and a sidewall vent---you want an upper and lower vent---pic is before I drilled the holes. There is a simple gasket around the door edge. Two door latches clamp it shut. A padlock fitting is useful for a little added security. The curved metal prevents a 20, 30 or 40lb propane tank from moving, There is also an optional two-position shelf for use above a 20 or 30lb cylinder.

Nice to have the fittings and a metal cabinet. I'd probably just fabricate one the next time. I only use 20lb bbq tanks on the road for the option to swap instead of having to refill.

Dan

GaryJ
09-23-2013, 07:14 PM
My 06 van has the same key ECU shows in his picture, but if you look at the key from the end that the blade projects from, there is a small rectangular opening with a plug in it. I've never seen a non-chipped key with anything like that before. I always assumed that all T1N's had the immobilizer, regardless of the other options. Anybody know for sure? I'd rather not test this theory with a key copy and get "start error". Edit: Also when the vehicle was bought new the buyer paid $75 for 2 spare keys. I think that's about what MB charged for chipped keys.

Gary

geoffs
09-23-2013, 09:15 PM
My van (2003) has the same style of key as shown. The chip is located as per the red arrow above.

My local locksmith was able to provide me with a clone copy a fair bit cheaper than a new key MB. As far as I know, MB don;t clone keys but program the new key to the ECU, even for simple passive transponder type as shown. Wish I could have gotten two keys for $75!

Chris Francis
09-24-2013, 12:54 AM
Agreed. I thought mine was a dumb key too. Here it is. But turn it to the side by the metal key part, and there it is, the brilliant chip. Brilliant for whom? The dealership, apparently!

Chris Francis
09-24-2013, 12:55 AM
Here's a pic of the plumber's propane locker about to be installed. It came with a floor vent fitting and a sidewall vent---you want an upper and lower vent---pic is before I drilled the holes. There is a simple gasket around the door edge. Two door latches clamp it shut. A padlock fitting is useful for a little added security. The curved metal prevents a 20, 30 or 40lb propane tank from moving, There is also an optional two-position shelf for use above a 20 or 30lb cylinder.

Nice to have the fittings and a metal cabinet. I'd probably just fabricate one the next time. I only use 20lb bbq tanks on the road for the option to swap instead of having to refill.

Dan

Is the access from the inside or outside? How about the vents?

Chris Francis
09-24-2013, 12:59 AM
That is a non-chipped key. If you take that black plastic off the key, you'll find...
key. No chip. :rolleyes:

You'll also find that the hole that the ring goes through is significantly larger than normal to make room for the plastic.
:hmmm: very interesting. I guess your ECM has the SKREEM function disabled. Do you have the sensor ring around the ignition where you insert the key? Is it wired up? Who owned your van before you?

If you figure out how to disable the SKREEM (without duct tape and zip ties of the chip on the steering column, which is not really disabling anything), you will sell more of your kits than Doktor A's RSN fix.

pfflyer
09-24-2013, 03:26 AM
I'd skip the re-badging since the MB logo will only attract miscreants who think you're a richer target than you are.

Good luck,

Dan

Miscreants and friends who see MB and say you make too much money. Won a bet with someone who drives a F250 King Ranch Diesel. He couldn't believe my van cost less than his truck. I have a lot more interest to see the MB van than I did with my Freightliner. I have to admit the MB is a lot nicer looking. It could be just the silver paint.

d_bertko
09-24-2013, 08:20 PM
Is the access from the inside or outside? How about the vents?
The propane locker is meant for portable tanks. It is accessed from inside only. (We have a split personality in that the van has a microwave and mag induction burner for road meals. In camp the bbq tank gets carried outside to the picnic table to power the double campstove, the grill and most of the camp hot water.)

You need to choose a reasonable location for the locker so that you can cut a hole in the van floor and a matching hole in the locker floor. A compression fitting creates a vapor-proof seal..

The wall vent also requires drilling through the van and locker walls and installing a similar vent fitting. The outside wall fitting is a fairly small bit of chrome with a downward opening to not bring rain in. Straightforward work with a hole saw. Works well.

Boats have a more serious problem with heavier-than-air propane so googling "marine propane locker" might yield more construction ideas.

I was not interested in plumbed propane inside the van since we have a diesel furnace for the majority of the btus. Much prefer keeping the cooking mess mostly outside. That said, the micro and induction burner are terrific for the road needs and as a camp supplement. (We eat well!)

Dan

Chris Francis
09-24-2013, 11:25 PM
My plan for the locker is leaning toward cutting up a box off an old service truck I have in my bone yard. The one in the photo is not it, but it is very similar.

http://www.agri-mobile.com/service%20truck.JPG

The van is not very flat, so this would protrude just a little from the side of the van (darn near flush at the widest point of the van, and might stick out a couple of inches at the narrowest part). This could work well for generator or chemicals or both. It would take a little more welding on the inside to complete the "box", but the access would be from the outside only. I can add vents as needed. I am considering using one box for the genny and another for chemicals. I like these because I can lock them. I read on another thread where someone was having trouble with generator exhaust seeping into the rooftop AC and into the van, so that concerns me, but I gotta get this thing running.

I talked with Doktor A today. He says:

1. Check fuses 16 & 18 (under steering column).
Did it. Both look good. Connections look good.

2. Check relays at bottom of fuse panel (under steering column, pointing down toward floor)
Did it. Relay on the left is there. Wipers! Other two are missing. Aha! One goes to turn signals - that could be part of my turn signal problem. The other goes to the ECU - and it is missing. Apparently ECU will not work without it. I have to get those relays, put them in there, and go from there. Anyone know what relays are supposed to go there?

He said some other stuff too, but I need to wade through what I have found, then proceed. I will keep you posted. Next step, if it still does not run, is to check voltages at the ECU (12V at pins 1, 3, & 5), check grounds, and check other wiring. Then, send everything to SOS for their diagnosis. He says no sensors at the muffler or Cat, so that's a relief, and aftermarket should work just fine.

Thanks, Doktor A! Super nice guy.

Chris Francis
09-25-2013, 07:20 PM
Okay. We put in the proper relays. Starter works! Engine turns over, and over, and over, and over. No fire (or whatever diesels are supposed to do). Does not crank. Turns over very rapidly. Is there a lack of compression? I have to put a compression gauge in the injector hole to figure that out. I don't have one, but I will be getting one. No start error on the dash. Glow plug light does come on and stay on for a few seconds before going off on its own. We were able to plug up the OBD2 to it and got 7 codes: various issues at numbered glow plugs, low fuel pressure, and more. I should have written them down. We do apparently have fuel getting to the filter, so guessing it is getting to the engine. Timing off? Back to the drawing board, but I feel like we are getting closer... who knows what will be at the end, a big cliff, probably.

pfflyer
09-25-2013, 08:18 PM
For ease of mind I would make sure fuel is getting to the cylinders not just the filter. Is the fuel good?

Chris Francis
09-25-2013, 09:08 PM
For ease of mind I would make sure fuel is getting to the cylinders not just the filter. Is the fuel good?

How do I check to see if fuel is getting to the cylinders? How do I check to see if the fuel is good?

pfflyer
09-25-2013, 09:41 PM
My mechanical experience is pre-computer gas engines but follow the lines from the filter to the top of the engine. My 02 had a fuel pump front top of the engine after the fuel filter. There were clear plastic lines to the pump and ridged tubing to the injectors. Could be injectors clogged as well. Not sure how to tell if fuel is bad but if it has not been running and sitting for a long time it can and will go bad.

Boater
09-25-2013, 09:46 PM
Normal quick check for fuel is to slacken the injector pipe unions a turn or 2 and see if fuel comes out whilst cranking, but this won't tell you if it is being delivered at the correct pressure. Common rail injection needs around 1800bar to work properly, tiny air leaks in the fuel lines kill the pressure!

One test you mechanic should be able to do, fill a clean jug with clean diesel and sit it somewhere steady above the engine. Disconnect fuel line from filter to pump at filter and place in the jug. Now see if you can get the engine running direct from the jug - if you can your problem is an air leak between the tank and filter, the filter connections are a favourite for this, also worth checking the lift pump which is tank side of the filter (might be in the tank).
If you can't run from a jug, you could have a problem with the pump or fuel rail - sometimes it can be a sensor failure which reports insufficient pressure so the ECU won't activate the injectors, sometimes the sensor itself has been disturbed and is the source of an air leak and sometimes there are other reasons for not getting enough pressure.

At least, that's the order I would approach things in if it will spin on the starter and I had some evidence of some fuel getting through.

Good luck!

Chris Francis
09-25-2013, 09:55 PM
Okay. I will be diving in for more diagnostics. Question: how fast does your 5-cylinder diesel spin over? Mine doesn't sound like it is giving much resistance... more like pulling on a yo-yo rather than a chainsaw. Sounds like a sewing machine spinning around. This is why I am thinking low compression. But, hey, that might be normal. For the ones that crank like they are suppose to, you probably don't even pay it attention; but for someone that has had start problems, you might have noticed.

pfflyer
09-25-2013, 10:56 PM
It is more like a sewing machine than a chain saw. Mechanical music, if you will, when running right.

pacman_34
09-25-2013, 11:30 PM
If you suspect compression I would do a leak down test. U can buy an adapter on ebay. I bought the injector one.

Chris Francis
09-26-2013, 07:53 PM
It is more like a sewing machine than a chain saw. Mechanical music, if you will, when running right.

That is good to hear. I'm getting excited!