Rusted hard lines on power steering rack

The hard lines on my otherwise perfectly functioning power steering rack have died. The rack has been removed, and the fitting came out just fine, so rather than spending the $250-$400 for a rebuilt rack I was hoping to flare my own replacement lines.

The issue is that they use a seemingly unobtainable M11x1.25 line nut. I've been calling and searching around but just can't seem to locate any.. Even the 'metric specialist' at the local hydraulic couldn't seem to help out.

Has anyone else had this problem, and solved it with a new rack? I didn't see the hardlines available separately from the rack, which would be another solution.

TIA.

I didn't find an actual outlet, but first link on google produced this:
http://www.brakequip.com/tubenuts.html
and they seem to have a locate a dealer function.

It does look as though these lines are not available separately, probably the steering gear manufacturer provides it as a pre-built assembly.

In fact I just spotted a footnote for the lines - "May not be replaced for safety reasons, replace steering" (presume that should read "replace steering box assembly").

Boater said:

I didn't find an actual outlet, but first link on google produced this:
http://www.brakequip.com/tubenuts.html
and they seem to have a locate a dealer function.

It does look as though these lines are not available separately, probably the steering gear manufacturer provides it as a pre-built assembly.

Click to expand...

Thank you.

I called BrakeQuip and they only have them with a 3/16" opening, where the stock line is 6mm. I gave in a ordered a rebuilt rack, which will come out to be $240 after I return the core. I also threw in some aftermarket tie-rod ends for about $30 to make everything on it new. Should be back on the road this week.

No worries, see my edit - replacing the lines on the rack is not permitted anyway!

Simple repair , get hydraulics place to make up two core steel braid hoses with fitting to take banjo bolts , if you really want tot be swish get stainless overbraid as well

BQ8087 is the part number for the brakequip banjo you require , use dowty washers either side of the union . As long as you use wire cored hydraulic hose it will work as well as the steel rigids did .

Normally rigid pipes are used for space , ease of manufacture & cost .

Done this type of fix many times without problems everything from , large trucks / buses , car , vans , agricultural , even boats steering gear

have fun


http://spokanehose.com/product.php?id=7076 is the link to the page i found the banjo's on , sorry having bad day , broken a driveshaft on a customers S500 , not seeing funny side of that one

I have a major hole from rust in the the exterior hard lines on the rack and pinion. I thought I would revive this old thread. I like Dingo's suggestion of using the banjo bolts. I absolutely don't want to remove the rack on my 04. I have had no problems with with the steering until the hard line rusted through. I have never even had to add fluid after 165,000 miles.

Anyone ever do this? I have never used banjo bolts, but I am game and Dingo's link still works for the bolts.

Mine on the '02 take flare nuts. I don't get his repair at all.
My lines are in rough condition.

http://www.brakequipproducts.com/product/brakequip-bq8087-banjo-bolt-m11-x-1-25

bill in tomahawk

billintomahawk said:

Mine on the '02 take flare nuts. I don't get his repair at all.
My lines are in rough condition.

http://www.brakequipproducts.com/product/brakequip-bq8087-banjo-bolt-m11-x-1-25

bill in tomahawk

Click to expand...

I think the repair concept is to use Bango bolts and lines instead of the flare nuts and lines. The idea being just grab some off the shelf bolts and lines and swap them in. Sounds good to me, as swapping in good hard lines can be quite difficult (sometimes impossible) in situ. The fact that changing lines is “not permitted “ is excessive, hydraulic failure in the steering system is hardly catastrophic, just a little Armstrong Steering until fixed.

I'm not clear on how a banjo bolt replaces a flare fitting either.

Back to the original fittings.

Assuming that the flare seal is formed by/in the replacement line, not the fitting itself.

Chop the hard line close to the original flare fitting. Use a six point socket to remove the fitting. Drill out, or otherwise rescue the fitting for re-use.

The flex line repair does sound reasonable. Can anyone offer insight (pictures?) on how the banjo bolts are applied? Does the steering rack fitting area have a flat surface allow a crush seal washer to be used?

vic

Vic,
What would the banjo bolt thread into?


bill

Thanks for all the insight everyone the banjo bolts would thread right in to the rack and pinion I like the idea of trying to salvage the original I will definitely try to do that 1st cheapest for sure.

Also it's bull**** that it's a hazard I drove 30 miles home probably ruined my pump, but not much worse than a grain truck I drove as a kid without power steering.

One thing I find interesting, through all this is not an idiot lighte or an engine code has popped from this complete failure

The power steering is totally independent from the vehicle electronics. At cruising speed the PS doesn't provide much assist anyways. As long as the steering angle sensor matches the wheel angle, the electronics wont care. If you have no ESP, even a broken steering shaft won't set a code (though it may kill you!).

For safety reasons, even a complete failure of the power assist won't prevent you from steering, as the pinion is linked to the wheel with a shaft.

I hope to start to tackle this job this weekend. I will post my results. I don't know whether to be surprised or discouraged that no one has attempted to do this. My brake lines rusted through about 3 years ago, I guess I should have figured the same on the rack and pinion lines.

Update. I am back on the road. I had a small brake line rust through while I was working on the hard lines on the rack and pinion, so it sat. I didn't have enough room to work on it on my back. I took it to a local shop. He fabricated a new brake line first. He was able to reuse the original M11x 1.25 line nuts and then fabricate new lines. He made my day. Amazing my power steering pump was still fine after driving 30 miles dry.

Those gear pumps are really durable, even a small amount of oil will keep them happy for a long time (with no load).

Even happier now, just picked it up. A place that has been recommended to me, so first time. They didn't charge me a tow to the shop. To replace the hard lines on the rack $250. $150 to fabricate a new brake line.

I am a happy man!

Zymurgy said:

Even happier now, just picked it up. A place that has been recommended to me, so first time. They didn't charge me a tow to the shop. To replace the hard lines on the rack $250. $150 to fabricate a new brake line.

I am a happy man!

Click to expand...

Did they replace with similar hard lines or flex? Reuse old fittings or new all the way?

vic

Aqua Puttana said:

Did they replace with similar hard lines or flex? Reuse old fittings or new all the way?

vic

Click to expand...

He replaced with copper/nickel lines and was able to use the old fittings.

If anyone else needs this done and can't reuse the fittings I did find some on ebay that should work by Brake Hoses Unlimited.

Found the link https://www.ebay.com/itm/MALE-TUBE-...ine-/331842259414?vxp=mtr&hash=item4d435709d6

Zymurgy said:

He replaced with copper/nickel lines and was able to use the old fittings.

If anyone else needs this done and can't reuse the fittings I did find some on ebay that should work by Brake Hoses Unlimited.

Found the link https://www.ebay.com/itm/MALE-TUBE-...ine-/331842259414?vxp=mtr&hash=item4d435709d6

Click to expand...

Removed my lines in the rack in the hope to replace with some others in better shape from another rack. However I found a white nylon type seal inside the hole where the fitting goes. It appeared to be crushed inside so I pulled it but it came out into pieces.

Did you guys had the same inner seal too or it could have been added by previous owner to stop a leak? Cannot seem to find any mention of the seal/washer anywhere... Thanks for the help.