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oregonjim
09-06-2013, 04:48 PM
what is this part? I am recent owner of 06 passenger model with 150,000 mi and replacing fluids and filters. This rig was stalling and dying but a new fuel filter and 3 tanks of Seafoam and it is running perfect. Just want to keep it that way. Really appreciate this forum with folks with knowledge and experience.
any way was under rig and noticed this oily part.
Is it the much discussed turbo resonator?
What does the oil leak mean?

jim

Bigdaddydaveh
09-06-2013, 04:53 PM
Any odd noises from the turbo? Check the impeller for excessive play in the bearings. Could be a worn shaft/bearing on the turbo). Mine looked like that before the turbo went.

oregonjim
09-06-2013, 05:38 PM
I haven't recognised any odd noises from turbo. no ture how to check the impeller shaft

Dingo
09-06-2013, 06:20 PM
Welcome to the forum , to help us help you can you please state exactly which engine you have i.e. diesel or gas 4 /5 / 6 cylinder .

Another picture taken from above the oily part will also help identify things .

Now then , it not uncommon for engines to breathe some oil from the crankcase vent into the inlet side of the turbo . The oil breather vents just upstream of the turbo inlet , so any oil vapour gets dragged in & spread aboubt . Oil then gets blown around the intercooler & piping before being burnt . When you stop driving , any airbourne oil drops out & pools , then it drips through any small gaps in the pipework .

NelsonSprinter
09-06-2013, 06:52 PM
I don't recognize the part. The clamp has a dent from something that also hit the hose, and that indent may have weakened the hose with a pinhole that may tear the hose in the future.
The hose is not fully on the part and clamp is slightly askew, this may be giving an incomplete seal, where blowby oil is inside the hose.

Aqua Puttana
09-06-2013, 08:12 PM
...
Is it the much discussed turbo resonator?
What does the oil leak mean?

jim
Yes. That is indeed the infamous Turbo Resonator TR. To the best of my knowledge the Euro and Aussie guys don't have that part. I believe it is a NAFTA OM647 diesel engine only feature.

The oil around it could be a loose hose clamp or a cracked seam in the TR. I would snug the clamp if it is loose, clean off the oil residue, and check in a while for evidence of oil returning. Entrained oil is normal in the charge air system. It comes out with the air flow when there is a leak.

54416

I haven't recognised any odd noises from turbo. no ture how to check the impeller shaft
My opinion.

The OEM Sprinter Garrett turbo is very reliable. On my list, it would be one of the last things to expect to fail. Spinning, wiggling, checking for movement, etc. will provide little data and may make you worry. If you remove the inlet hose to the turbo you can visually inspect the fan blades for signs of wear or other problems. Beyond that, there is little to check DIY other than watching the actuator for movement.

If all is running well leave the turbo alone.

vic

Edit: What Bruce said too. I type and think slowly.

bc339
09-06-2013, 08:14 PM
what is this part?
Is it the much discussed turbo resonator?
What does the oil leak mean?

jim

Yes, it is the turbo resonator.

The oil leak means that you still have oil in the engine. Diesel engines are "dirtier" than gassers. The oil is typically from the crank case vent - the tube from the vent is routed into the intake, so any vapors from the crank case vent will accumulate in the intake system.

Bruce

cahaak
09-06-2013, 09:59 PM
You have oil on the TR as indicated. You may need to tighten up the clamp shown in the picture there as you might have leakage there. There also might be a small leak in the seam of the TR itself. If that is the case, it is likely to fail over the long term, especially if the TR has never been replaced on your '06. On mine, it was oily, and it failed eventually when pulling my camper(at about 130K), but you will usually get some warning like a LHM that resets with engine shutdown before you get complete TR failure. You can by the Dorman model online for something like $30 and it is good insurance to keep an extra in the van under the passenger seat because if you lose the TR, then you will be very limited in your driving of the vehicle until you get it replaced. The seam on the Dorman TR seems to be very tight with a good weld and unlikely to fail IMHO.

Chris

oregonjim
09-06-2013, 10:56 PM
I checked the records from the shop that maintained this rig. Couldn't stop it from stalling and dying (owner sold in disgust) but they kept pretty good records. looks like they may have replaced TR around 100,000
upper turbo hose freightliner 082ma9015285382 $169.95
fuel filter and changed inline fuel filter
105,000 noise silencer freightliner #082m a647141086 mf $74.95
checked rubber hoses to turbo all ok

I will clean and tighten the clamps and watch. Maybe buy a TR to carry. I plan to travel from Oregon to Fl in early Oct.
where can I buy the dorman model?

Jb1rd73
09-07-2013, 12:00 AM
I'm in the Cocoa Beach area when you get down to Florida feel free to message me. I just picked up an 06 140 high top cargo model with 107k bought it with the high pressure pump leak that seems to be so prominent. Doc A is awesome!!

Aqua Puttana
09-07-2013, 12:05 AM
...
I will clean and tighten the clamps and watch. Maybe buy a TR to carry. I plan to travel from Oregon to Fl in early Oct. ...
If you plan to hit The Miami area or use Forida's Turnpike get a SunPass mini as soon as possible.

where can I buy the dorman model?

http://www.amazon.com/Dorman-904-303-Turbo-Vibration-Dampener/dp/B002E323DS

vic

oregonjim
09-07-2013, 12:28 AM
Hi I live west of Tampa. Will check with you. I need to know more. Doc A sounds great.

oregonjim
09-07-2013, 12:39 AM
just ordered the dorman TR. already have sunpass. Thanks to all.

dalemonroe
09-07-2013, 01:08 AM
I have a 118" WB '06 Spritnter which I bought new and have dealt with a few problems. We use it to pull a 17 foot Airstream. The pictures you posted show the turbo resonator. The turbo normally puts out a little oil so if you have a slight leak in the induction system, you will see oil as in your pictures. Check hose connections first.
When ever my resonator leaked, it also caused performance issues, namely limp home mode. It also made a pulsating whooshing noise as the halves of the resonator openned and closed with a cycle of about four seconds when under power. I relaced my resonator with a sraight through aluminum piece which is available after market. The turbo makes a strange squeaky noise under power which I asume is the waste gate openning and closing rapidly. You hear it when the resonator is eliminated. Someone told me an after market resonator by Dorman was available from NAPA and was more durable, so I put one on recently. The turbo boost can be higher than you might expect, over 100 psi under full power, so the slightest leak can cause limp home mode loss of power. The temporary cure is shut the engine off and restart. I'm also following the advice of a seasoned mechanic and fellow Sprinter owner to keep the RPM's under 3,000. Fuel economy is better now and there is no more soot on my trailer.

Aqua Puttana
09-07-2013, 01:24 PM
Max turbo boost pressure in a Sprinter is likely closer to 30 psig. Typically it is controlled to around 22 - 23 psig max under load. The 0 - 30 psi scaled mechanical pressure gauge on my T1N has never been pegged. The service manual cautions to not exceed about 20 psi if the charge air system is pressure tested.

There is no waste gate proper. The actuator controls a vane unit. vic

sailquik
09-07-2013, 02:29 PM
Thanks Vic,
I was going to correct the 2 "inaccuracies" in this post but you beat me to it.
Just to add a couple of things.
If you measure manifold pressure as Vic does, with a gauge reading in Pounds per square inch Gauge the reading will be zero (0) with the engine off and no pressure in the manifold.
As Vic suggests, pressures higher than 22-23 PSIG are never seen as this would be definite over boost (i.e. more boost than is needed and too much boost affects the air fuel ratio and can cause pistons to burn. Too much air also affects the emissions.).
If you chose the Scan Gauge II (or similar performance reporting devices) you may decide to read your manifold pressure in Pounds per square inch ABSOLUTE.
With the engine off, and no pressure in the manifold AT SEA LEVEL altitude the Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP for short) will the ~14.7 PSIAbsolute which is the ambient atmospheric pressure at this altitude, measured in this way.
When you are maxed out, the MAP pressure will rise to 36-37 PSI Absolute.
The math here is easy. 14.7 PSIA + 22-23 PSI (Developed by the output rotor of the turbocharger)= 36-37 PSI Absolute!
One reason to measure the boost or manifold pressure in absolute is that Sprinters are "altitude corrected" for air/fuel ratio, and
the MAP sensor actually reads in absolute pressure when reporting the manifold pressure to the engine management system (ECM) computer.
If you set your Scan Gauge II (or similar) to read straight Gauge pressure (PSIG) the SG II has an algorithm to convert the OBD-II mandated PSIA to PSIG for you.
As far as the "Waste Gate" Sprinters do not have (nor need) any waste gate.
The vacuum operated ('02-03' T1N OM-612 engine) or electronic operated (a small linear actuator) ('04-'06 T1N OM-647 and all NCV3's with the OM-642 V6) changes the angle of the turbocharger vanes to increase or decrease the boost pressure under the control of the ECM.
The vanes are attached to a vane ring that is gear driven by the bell crank you see sticking out of the front of the hot side of your turbocharger.
As the linear actuator extends and retracts, the bell crank moves up and down, rotating on a shaft that has a small gear on the other end (inside the turbocharger).
As that small gear turns, it engages gear teeth cut into the periphery of the vane ring.
As the vane ring turns, driven by the small gear, the vanes that direct the exhaust flow on the small turbine bucket wheel change their angle and divert more exhaust gas/pressure onto the turbine wheel to increase/decrease the manifold pressure.
This entire operation is completely under the control of the programming in the ECM.
Unless you get a "tune" and change the programming, the manifold pressure is....what it is!
When the switch on the accelerator pedal (TPS or Throttle Position Sensor) signals the ECM (Electronic Control Module/main engine management computer) for less fuel, the ECM signals the Turbo Electronic (vacuum too) actuator to turn the vane ring and decrease the boost.
When you are running along on flat terrain, the Cruise control (or the TPS in response to your right foot) signals the ECM to maintain your current speed.
The ECM will increase or decrease the fueling rate, and signal the turbo actuator to increase or decrease the manifold absolute pressure by small amounts to maintain an overall "balance" in optimum air fuel ratio for the current % of engine Load. (the primary controlling factor in engine management).
If you are cruising along, and come to an uphill grade, without any input from you (the driver) the % of engine Load can increase to it's maximum (99% on 2 digit displays like the SGII).
Since the % engine load has now increased, in order to maintain the correct air/fuel ratio for clean emissions, the ECM will increase the fueling rate to the maximum programmed in for that particular RPM.
At the same time, in order to maintain the fuel/air ratio, the ECM will signal the turbocharger actuator to increase the boost to the maximum programmed into the ECM for that particular RPM.
If the uphill gradient increases, the ECM will at some point signal the TCM (Transmission Control Module) to auto-downshift to the next lower gear.
With a Scan Gauge II (or similar) you can watch all of these changes in real time while driving down the road.
Without the benefit of a gauge package to see all these changes, you would only know that the engine sound had changed a little and that for some reason the darned thing decided to downshift.
Hope this helps,
Roger