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View Full Version : 2012 Sprinter, loss of power and check engine light at 16K miles.


Investorguy
09-02-2013, 03:45 AM
I've seen a few horror stories on here w/ some older models about multiple trips and it ultimately turning out to be a gasket between the turbo and the engine.

Is there any other thing this might be? This is the only vehicle our family fits in so we are kinda screwed right now.

I know it's likely covered under warranty. I'm just wondering if there's anything I can rig to get it going for the trip to the repair place..

Aqua Puttana
09-02-2013, 12:59 PM
The CEL is on so the best thing to do is get a scan for codes. Absent any other information, even at only 16,000 miles, my shot in the dark, wild a$$ guess would be EGR issues. That said, I shouldn't even include that comment in this reply because there is nothing to support it.

Without at least a scanned DTC or 2 and being under warranty, I know of no little tricks to make your vehicle run better. (Even if it is the EGR.)

Depending upon the power loss problem sometimes going easy on the throttle will keep the computer from setting LHM, but that so much depends upon what is making the computer unhappy. Good luck. vic

Investorguy
09-02-2013, 06:57 PM
Thanks AP, yeah it does seem to me from reading that it would be EGR issues, possibly a gasket or O-ring that failed between the turbo and the engine (from my reading). A fair amount of horror stories too.

riskydnb
09-02-2013, 07:20 PM
The hose from the airbox to the front of the turbo probably came off. All you need is a flat head screw driver to access and tighten clamp of the hose.

Aqua Puttana
09-02-2013, 08:27 PM
Thanks AP, yeah it does seem to me from reading that it would be EGR issues, possibly a gasket or O-ring that failed between the turbo and the engine (from my reading).
Turbo system leaks can cause LHM so it is certainly worth checking for symptoms and looking around to see if there is anything that you can find. That said, with the MIL (aka CEL) on, and no scan you are really just poking around. A scan should provide a direction.

A fair amount of horror stories too.
Don't let the horror stories get to you. I bought my used Sprinter with 172,000 miles by looking on eBay. Lots of miles, but it's a diesel and a Mercedes to boot, right??? :rad: After the purchase I found the forums, read the stories, and wondered what the hell I had done.

I'm now about 6 years in and just shy of 260,000 miles. I've had a few problems, but overall the Sprinter has been very reliable. (knock/touch wood).

There's lots of good information on this forum, and some others.
vic

Investorguy
09-02-2013, 09:37 PM
The hose from the airbox to the front of the turbo probably came off. All you need is a flat head screw driver to access and tighten clamp of the hose.

Is there a schematic somewhere that can show this to me? I'll see if I can google.

Is that the really large hard plastic hose from that box in the middle/top of the engine? It's not really lose at all.

joeyrobby
09-02-2013, 10:30 PM
Is it blowing a lot of black smoke? If not then it is not a turbo gasket or air intake issue.
Does it run after sitting a little while under easy acceleration but shuts down under hard acceleration? If so it is a fuel filter. they should be changed every 15,000 max. You wont hurt anything nursing it home. My shop changes the filter for $85 installed

Investorguy
09-03-2013, 03:46 AM
Is it blowing a lot of black smoke? If not then it is not a turbo gasket or air intake issue.
Does it run after sitting a little while under easy acceleration but shuts down under hard acceleration? If so it is a fuel filter. they should be changed every 15,000 max. You wont hurt anything nursing it home. My shop changes the filter for $85 installed

Thanks. No black smoke, no smell, nothing seems amiss except the light and loss of power. It runs fine, revs fine... just has no power.

icarus
09-03-2013, 03:57 AM
EGR shutting down the turbo is my guess. Unless you have a hose off or leak as suggestd.

A simple scan by MB (Wilson in B'ham can do it, or Riardons Dodge should be able to do it in 30 seconds!) Warantee is going to cover it all anyway, so just gt it in.

Icarus

Investorguy
09-03-2013, 05:12 AM
EGR shutting down the turbo is my guess. Unless you have a hose off or leak as suggestd.

A simple scan by MB (Wilson in B'ham can do it, or Riardons Dodge should be able to do it in 30 seconds!) Warantee is going to cover it all anyway, so just gt it in.

Icarus

Thanks. Kind of irritating that the limp mode kicks in over something that is probably not emergent. Too bad you can't adjust the limp mode sensitivity like you can the wipers.

riskydnb
09-03-2013, 06:09 AM
Is it blowing a lot of black smoke? If not then it is not a turbo gasket or air intake issue.
Does it run after sitting a little while under easy acceleration but shuts down under hard acceleration? If so it is a fuel filter. they should be changed every 15,000 max. You wont hurt anything nursing it home. My shop changes the filter for $85 installed

15k for fuel filter change is excessive. More like 45k or more.

riskydnb
09-03-2013, 06:13 AM
Is there a schematic somewhere that can show this to me? I'll see if I can google.

Is that the really large hard plastic hose from that box in the middle/top of the engine? It's not really lose at all.

Yes the hose that runs to the big box which holds the air filter in the middle of the engine. It wont be off on the box side but the side that links to the turbo. You have too few of miles to have EGR, turbo issues, or even cracked hoses for that matter. A hose has probably blown off, check all turbo hoses to see if they are installed properly. There are 3, one on the bottom of the passenger side, one on the bottom on the driver side and the one on the air box which I previously told you about. Id start with the air box hose first cause this is the most common to blow off.

bkhi
09-03-2013, 11:47 AM
On mine when the hose came off it did not cause any CEL or LHM
Why do you say fuel filter should be at 45k not 15k ?
I have had 5 diesel trucks so far, on the Fuso and isuzu 20k or 1 year was pushing it. Filters were twice the size of my filter now. Filter would get gummed up especially when cold. Truck would start, but not leave 1st gear.

Aqua Puttana
09-03-2013, 12:14 PM
On mine when the hose came off it did not cause any CEL or LHM.
That would not be unusual. My observation based upon forum posts is that smaller hose leaks or other smaller charge air system leaks more often do not set the CEL. That said, it is very dependent upon the failure mode. I would think that a hose off the airbox would affect the MAF sensor or filter box pressure sensor.

I probably didn't mention this yet. :dripsarcasm::dripsarcasm:

With the MIL (aka CEL) lit the codes should be scanned.

Why do you say fuel filter should be at 45k not 15k ?
I have had 5 diesel trucks so far, on the Fuso and isuzu 20k or 1 year was pushing it. Filters were twice the size of my filter now. Filter would get gummed up especially when cold. Truck would start, but not leave 1st gear.
By all means apply your experience for your reliability.

The MB recommended fuel filter change interval was 10K. Per the operator manual it was changed up to 20K for newer Sprinters. (T1N and NCV3 fuel filters are of similar size. T1N MPG is generally better than the NCV3.) There is now a thread which indicates that the newest Operator Manual or Maintenance Book indicates 30K.

My schedule with my filter is to change it every other ASSYST oil change which works out to about 30K change interval. Because I can be somewhat lazy (and cheap) I have tipped past 40K without problems, but I felt that I was probably on borrowed time in doing that.

I carry a spare fuel filter and tools needed to change it.

:2cents: vic

icarus
09-03-2013, 01:13 PM
It may bee too early for an EGR, but the EGR controller has been known to fail early. Mine did. Once again, have it scanned.

Icarus

bkhi
09-03-2013, 01:21 PM
That would not be unusual. My observation based upon forum posts is that smaller hose leaks or other smaller charge air system leaks more often do not set the CEL. That said, it is very dependent upon the failure mode. I would think that a hose off the airbox would affect the MAF sensor or filter box pressure sensor.

I probably didn't mention this yet. :dripsarcasm::dripsarcasm:

With the MIL (aka CEL) lit the codes should be scanned.


By all means apply your experience for your reliability.

The MB recommended fuel filter change interval was 10K. Per the operator manual it was changed up to 20K for newer Sprinters. (T1N and NCV3 fuel filters are of similar size. T1N MPG is generally better than the NCV3.) There is now a thread which indicates that the newest Operator Manual or Maintenance Book indicates 30K.

My schedule with my filter is to change it every other ASSYST oil change which works out to about 30K change interval. Because I can be somewhat lazy (and cheap) I have tipped past 40K without problems, but I felt that I was probably on borrowed time in doing that.

I carry a spare fuel filter and tools needed to change it.

:2cents: vic
With those other trucks it was much harder to change the filters esp the Fuso, and priming them took forever. The sprinter is much easier that is probably why I do it at every oil change. The amount of garbage ( water, dirt, stones ) in the fuel is amazing. And I dont always get it at the same places.

Do the filters have a heating element in the center insert? or just water sensor?

Aqua Puttana
09-03-2013, 01:30 PM
...
Do the filters have a heating element in the center insert? or just water sensor?
I haven't ever seen any heating element mentioned. Just the WIF sensor.

If I lived in a colder climate I would consider adapting a battery heating blanket or other plug in heat 120 volt source for the filter. There seem to be quite a few stories about really cold fuel found in the filter being as thick as snot. A filter heater may help for really cold ambient starts. That said, it doesn't really help with the fuel in the lines. Maybe the condition is worse with larger volume like the filter? We don't get that cold around here. vic

sailquik
09-03-2013, 02:26 PM
bkhi,
Which Mitsubishi Fuso truck did you have.
I had the FG (4x4) 4 cylinder 1999 model and the fuel filter was easy to change and priming it (with the little priming
lever on the fuel pump) was really easy, if you "pre-filled" the filter with fuel before you put it back together.
Roger

riskydnb
09-03-2013, 02:35 PM
On mine when the hose came off it did not cause any CEL or LHM
Why do you say fuel filter should be at 45k not 15k ?
I have had 5 diesel trucks so far, on the Fuso and isuzu 20k or 1 year was pushing it. Filters were twice the size of my filter now. Filter would get gummed up especially when cold. Truck would start, but not leave 1st gear.

Just personal experience on my fleet of 14 sprinters.

bkhi
09-04-2013, 02:17 AM
I had a 2005 FE145 , filter was crammed between fuel tank and air filter under 16' box. In direct path of snow/salt from front tires. Extremely difficult to remove plastic filter housing from alum top, steel bleeders corroded to alum would not open. Had to crank engine with bleeder open for 10 min or more, then close bleeder. Could not do alone, used to remove entire assembly every October to carefully remove steel bleeders from alum top.

Finally used air from compressor onto fuel tank to force fuel into housing until it came out bleeder. On isuzu there was a pump on engine had to push 100 times to prime, stroke was 1 1/2-2" took forever.

Both of those trucks needed to be plugged in in the winter or no start.

bkhi
09-04-2013, 02:20 AM
Just personal experience on my fleet of 14 sprinters.

Thats good to know, in case I get lazy. Right now since it is easier than my old truck I do it more often:laughing:

riskydnb
09-04-2013, 03:25 AM
Thats good to know, in case I get lazy. Right now since it is easier than my old truck I do it more often:laughing:

Ya its purely a $ issue for me. 14 trucks which my drivers drive 10k every 3 mths times $75 adds up....

Investorguy
09-04-2013, 04:56 AM
Well my wife picked up the car today. I'm going to try to get back to him, but I think he said it was the DEF sensor. He definitely said it was some part that had been recalled so they performed the recall on it. My other two problems were that some light bulb is out intermittently and I can't tell which one and the other issue is that a few times over the Summer the front AC just stopped flowing. I could crank it up and hear it blowing like crazy; but all the air sounded like it was being blown into the center/inside of the dash; nothing came through the vents. It only happened a couple times and turning off the car seemed to fix it. He couldn't reproduce either of those problems. Oh well.

Alex
09-07-2013, 01:25 AM
Will try to ask here, today during the ride uphill engine lost the power. , after couple of miles engine light is "On" .On flat road running ok, no LIMP mode.
Tonight I've changed fuel filter, no any result, still no power. I have DAD connected and checked for fault codes. All looks OK
May be is the EGR problem?
Thank you for help

bkhi
09-07-2013, 01:32 AM
Ya its purely a $ issue for me. 14 trucks which my drivers drive 10k every 3 mths times $75 adds up....

Quickly:thumbup:

riskydnb
09-07-2013, 04:24 AM
Will try to ask here, today during the ride uphill engine lost the power. , after couple of miles engine light is "On" .On flat road running ok, no LIMP mode.
Tonight I've changed fuel filter, no any result, still no power. I have DAD connected and checked for fault codes. All looks OK
May be is the EGR problem?
Thank you for help

Most likely a crack in one of the turbo hoses...

icarus
09-07-2013, 11:29 AM
Will try to ask here, today during the ride uphill engine lost the power. , after couple of miles engine light is "On" .On flat road running ok, no LIMP mode.
Tonight I've changed fuel filter, no any result, still no power. I have DAD connected and checked for fault codes. All looks OK
May be is the EGR problem?
Thank you for help

Charge air leak, hose, clamp, resonator, intercooler etc. Possibly an EGR issue.

Icarus

Alex
09-09-2013, 12:50 AM
Well, resonator is changed, no air leak, still have the problem Remove EGR, and find what valves moving half way. screw out extra 2 bolts and find inside melted plastic debris .
So , I have to buy hew EGR. Good thing, engine running, and I can ride to place the order. ( Now in Oregon 3600 miles from home)

Alex
09-11-2013, 02:09 AM
I’ve bought new EGR, it took me 20 min to replace.
Thanks DAD, I’ve erased all codes, and checked status of engine
DAD showed “Engine good status”
Thank you for support !