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Terdchaser
08-29-2013, 11:31 PM
We have a 2007 Sprinter Diesel with 92K miles and today the turbo started to quit working after 5 minutes of pre and highway speeds.:crazy: Have already changed the resonator boot and o-ring and ran 2 screws into the boot. Found a missing bolt for the primary tube anchor and replaced it.:censored: A coating of oil was in both tubes and the resonator, cleaned that out. 5 more stop/start cycles yielded the same results of the turbo working for 5 or so minutes:thumbdown:Anyone have any ideas?:idunno:
Thanks, Paul

icarus
08-30-2013, 01:40 AM
Check thoroughly for charge air leaks, including resonator, hoses, fitting, intercooler. An intermittent might be a hose that only leaks under max pressure. Could also be an EGR issue?

Icarus

Stevec
08-30-2013, 03:18 AM
I'd go after the EGR valve, it only takes 20 min or so to get it out, then clean it well and re install. Seems to be a very common culprit. There are a few great post's on here that tell you how to do it.

Had the same issue on a 2007 with 95K, I cleaned it a few times with great results, eventually replaced it with a new one.

Good lucy!

Steve

Terdchaser
09-17-2013, 12:36 AM
As of this date, we've replaced all boots and O-rings on the charge side of the turbo, EGR valve has been scrubbed and re-installed with a new gasket, resonator has been checked, and according to the guys, it's running better, but not 100%. :bash: As if this isn't enough, my '07 Ryder beater with 199K got turbo kooties this MORNING!:yell: Will try to keep progress posted as time permits! Thanks to ALL whom have replied so far!
:cheers:
Paul

sailquik
09-17-2013, 12:52 AM
Paul,
What oil are you using?

Aqua Puttana
09-17-2013, 03:49 AM
Checking for DTC's with a Sprinter specific scan tool may give some direction. Poking around can work, but based upon the results in your posts it seems you would benefit from more detailed information. Modern vehicles can be complicated. vic

gottahavabenz
09-17-2013, 08:26 PM
Terdchaser

Do you have a way to monitor the boost Psi like an ultragauge or scangauge? I was sure I was experiencing turbo problems and so I started monitoring my boost psi and all was normal. So I am chasing something else that mimics a lack of turbo!!

I kind of like this stuff until it hits my wallet than I hate it.

Terdchaser
09-17-2013, 10:11 PM
Update! As today was slow at work, I seized the opportunity to play with my Ryder beater. Had turbo from the house out to the semi-main drag (.5 miles) and it cut out. Noticed before it's demise a whooshing sound that wasn't there before. Finally made it to the shop by feathering the throttle and manually shifting the trans. Kept the rpm's between 2000 and 2800and was able to keep up in traffic, never shifting past 4th gear:snore:
At the shop, had a helper do a power brake to try and spool up the turbo with sorry results. Noise came and went way too fast. Went ahead and pulled the EGR valve, found very light soot and went ahead and cleaned it, installed a new gasket and tested it again...still the same. Used a Brooklyn creeper to check out the bottom side of the engine, manifolds and turbo plumbing, found a sooty area at the rear of the passenger's side rear EGR valve manifold cooler, and made a mental note:crazy:. Could not venture further there as the owner of the strip warehouse also has an auto repair business and according to them it's a conflict of interest. :thinking: TBC!
:cheers: Paul

Terdchaser
09-17-2013, 11:05 PM
:yell: Got the Beater home, let it cool down for an hour while I perused the forum looking for more ideas.:shifty: Went out and noted with a real creeper, I could not roll beneath the Beater!:cry: This not only slowed my process, but also helped in providing an end to the means!:doh: Grabbed an old pair of ramps and placed them in the driveway. This would mimic at least a 20% incline and get the turbo to boost. Before pulling up, I sprayed a soapy water mixture all over every pressurized joint in the system, over the end caps of the intercooler and after cleaning the diesel jizz off the intercooler hoses, them too!:rad: Began up the ramps and just before the flat top, held the R's to 2K for about a minute. Pulled the pkg. brake, set it in park, shut it down and began to explore.....all known problem points on the upper end had no bubbles:thumbup: Got down on the creeper and checked the intercooler, it was o.k. ( Had my doubts as the beater has been wrecked at least twice!) Intercooler hoses; driver's side was bubble free, passenger's side, however looked like a Mr. Bubble orgasm!:lol: Both hoses have been ordered from the local Frightliner dealer, should be in on Thursday, Will update again with part numbers.
:cheers: Paul

Terdchaser
09-17-2013, 11:13 PM
@ sailquick, Castrol Syntec diesel,10-W-40. @ vic, what scan tool do YOU recommend? Boss asked me this morning, told him about $1500.00, damn near had a stroke:laughing: @ gottahaveabenz, no scan tool at this point. Would really like one that it Sprinter friendly, any suggestions?:idunno:
:cheers: Paul

sailquik
09-18-2013, 12:28 AM
Hi Paul,
The oil you are using is NOT on the MB Bevo List under spec 229.51.
The Castrol oil that is approved for your vehicle in the correct viscosity is
Castrol Edge Turbo Diesel 5W-40
Using a 10W-40 oil cuts your start up wear protection significantly!
Glad you found the bad turbo hose.
I had not tried that method, even though I've recommended it .
The ramps add a little more security and load....good idea!
Roger

Aqua Puttana
09-18-2013, 01:10 AM
Sounds like you found some leaks. :thumbup: It does seem that so often these turbo cutoff problems trace to fairly simple issues. (A scan can give direction for those too.)

... @ vic, what scan tool do YOU recommend? ...Would really like one that is Sprinter friendly, any suggestions?:idunno:
:cheers: Paul
I don't have any real recommendations for the 2007. I have a 2004 T1N. The 2007 was the first generation NAFTA NCV3 model. My recollection of JD Caples comments relative to the 2007 Sprinters is that being that they are Dodge/Freightliner badged (branded?) they fall into an area between T1N's and any later than 2007 model NAFTA NCV3 Sprinters.

Me being a DIY type with limited resources my inclination would be to try one of the Chinese, or other, MB Star clones. A Star clone should work for you, but I'm not certain for 2007. That said, I recommend doing an advanced search using JD Caples as member and maybe "scan tool" to see what information Jon has provided. He is very knowledgeable about the resources available to us for Sprinters. I am more of a generalist and parrot of the forum.

There have been other clone discussions here. Maybe try searching using "Star clone" to see what you get. Good luck. vic

Terdchaser
09-18-2013, 02:13 AM
Thanks, Roger! here in FL, I won't go below a 10 w oil EVER ( My personal preference) I don't really care whether the oil sucks up the galleries fast or slow, but when our lowest temps are barely in the low 30's, 10-W- whatever is the way to go. I do make sure the spec's meet M/B's most wanted lists! ( or close enough!)

Terdchaser
09-18-2013, 02:17 AM
Thanks vic. Will attempt to do the search with JD and see what happens!

sailquik
09-18-2013, 02:27 AM
Ummmm.....AFAIK, 0W-40...5W-40...10W-40....20W-40 is all the same viscosity when the engine gets up to normal
operating temperature (180-192 deg F for NAFTA Sprinters.....180+5 deg-0 deg. for T1N Sprinters.....191 deg. F +3 deg. -0 deg.
for the later NCV3 BlueTecs.
The 5W just lubes a little better and a little faster on startup where most engine wear occurs.
The ambient temperature simply does not matter as much as it used to.
5W-40 gives you the entire range of normal ambient temperatures.
10W-40 limits the low end some.
Roger

bcislander
09-18-2013, 03:58 PM
Thanks, Roger! here in FL, I won't go below a 10 w oil EVER ( My personal preference) I don't really care whether the oil sucks up the galleries fast or slow, but when our lowest temps are barely in the low 30's, 10-W- whatever is the way to go. I do make sure the spec's meet M/B's most wanted lists! ( or close enough!)

As sailquick already posted, the oil you used is not MB approved. The 2 oils readily available in Nth America are both 5w-40:

Mobil 1 ESP & Valvoline Synpower MST (VV966)

There are numerous threads on this Forum that indicate using other than the MB spec'd oil is highly likely to lead to premature 'clogging' of the DPF. If your boss 'choked' at $1500, price out what a replacement DPF would cost.

Also pointed out by sailquick earlier in this thread, it's the '40' number that counts when the engine is hot. The '5' provides better flow & lubrication than the '10' when the engine is cold, leading to lower engine wear. Price a MB Diesel engine recently?

Terdchaser
09-18-2013, 11:49 PM
Frightliner dealer red labeled the hose he didn't have ( the one that blew).

Driver's side hose, looks like a ? mark M/B 906 528 22 82 $123.42

Passenger side hose, looks like a j M/B 906 528 03 82 $66.39

Fright $29.75

Have got to get a M/B parts source book to avoid dealing with Frightliner. Still mulling over a subscription to startekinfo just because their NAFTA list does not include Sprinters, but I guess their Euro list does. My problem is that Euro vs. Nafta have different specs especially when emissions are concerned. Any Input?

:cheers: Paul

sailquik
09-19-2013, 02:13 PM
Paul,
I have a subscription to the epc.startekinfo.com site ($12.00/year) and I get all kinds of info on Sprinter parts.
You can look up any part by your particular VIN# very quickly.
Are you looking for something else beyond part numbers?
Your Freightliner VIN# will cross directly into the MBUSA epc.startekinfo system.
It's really a Mercedes Benz VIN# with a few Freightliner badges on the outside of the van, but I'm sure you knew that.
Roger