PDA

View Full Version : Run Problems - I know it's electrical but what


acvr4
08-27-2013, 07:22 PM
Hey Guys,
Well I have had my 05 trip this P0336 code and not start. It usually will fire up after a little while but today is the 3rd time and it took a while to start. Since it's occasional could it be just the sensor going bad - since it runs fine ?
I have noticed a sound as a gas motor would make when timing is off a little - could this be a symptom of my problem ?
I'm thinking maybe the sensor is going bad. It starts fine in the morning but I think when it get hot the sensor faults.
It was fine today (Mon) when I left but now after a second stop it's not starting - guess I wait till it cools more and hopefully it will start.
Well my problems ends when it cools down - I'm thinking a faulty sensor - order one an I'll have it in the morning - Keeping my fingers crossed.
Well the Crank sensor has been replaced - original one looks OK little rust on the metal pickup shaft edge. Started up but then I noticed a power loss while driving forward and backwards - almost a cut out. Crawled under and went to check the sensor connection and the van shut down. Think the connector was locked in but not positive.
I separated the EGR motor from the spring connection - seems to be turning OK.
I checked the gas side and it wasn't bad but now I'm going to need a new gasket have a slow drip.
Now it's tripping a P0404 code and going into limp mode :idunno:
I might have to bit the bullet and take it to a garage.
Anyone have any ideas - It's got to be an electrical issue but finding it.

Thanks,
Andy

CJPJ
08-27-2013, 08:07 PM
for what it is worth... P0404 EGR Pos Sensor Rationality, P0336 Crank Pos Sensor Perf

http://www.obd-codes.com/p0404

acvr4
08-27-2013, 09:39 PM
I know :) thanks CJPJ.
I have replaced the fuel filter, Crank Pos sensor and cleaned the EGR. Now it seems the motor will start all the time but now it's going into limp mode 3k rpm max and trigger the P0404.
I'm stumped - I do have 164Kmiles on it now maybe my EGR valve is going bad .

Aqua Puttana
08-27-2013, 09:55 PM
...I separated the EGR motor from the spring connection - seems to be turning OK.
...Thanks,
Andy
Did you take apart the security fasteners on the EGR? I have yet to see anyone report separating those two parts and not need to replace the EGR. There must be some trick to getting the indexing back together properly. If you figure it out for certain please do a Write-up on the procedure for future reference.

You may have solved your original problem, but now the EGR indexing is holding you back. Good luck. vic

acvr4
08-28-2013, 12:04 AM
Humm well the two parts connect via two gears with that plastic squish fitting. The EGR motor seems to power in only one direction CCW. I was pretty sure they mesh together to allow the motor to fit flush to the valve.
But I'm thinking that this EGR is the problem ? - so now when you first start it, it will rev normal then trips the P0404 code and then limp mode - If I clear the code with the Scan Gauge II it will rev up for a few seconds then goes back into limp mode - no code indicated.

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f321/05bluer1/IMG_3137.jpg (http://s50.photobucket.com/user/05bluer1/media/IMG_3137.jpg.html)
http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f321/05bluer1/IMG_3136.jpg (http://s50.photobucket.com/user/05bluer1/media/IMG_3136.jpg.html)

Aqua Puttana
08-28-2013, 03:28 AM
Humm well the two parts connect via two gears with that plastic squish fitting. ...
I suspect that when the two parts are separated the parts move out of original position without even being noticed. When the valve is reassembled the indexing is lost and the improper EGR operation is noticed by the ECM (aka ECU).

I have a perfectly good used spare EGR because I replaced it during the Delphi O2 sensor partial failure LHM air mass code debacle. I'm not going to take it apart to explore because it works just fine now. Good luck. vic

CJPJ
08-28-2013, 04:33 AM
Thanks for the pictures! ..beside the crushed plastic interlock and indexing issue... I see more rust than I would like! The rust is likely attacking the clock spring, a sticking under preforming return spring may be what caused then initial EGR code.

surlyoldbill
08-28-2013, 05:01 AM
I would guess that a new EGR is needed. They ARE consumable items, needing replacement every so often.

Eric Experience
08-28-2013, 11:16 AM
Andy.
Your original problem was most likely the cam sensor not the crank sensor. The crank sensor is not as temperature sensitive as the cam sensor. Eric

skill3
08-28-2013, 07:14 PM
Even though you probably don't want to hear it, I think it's time for a new EGR. The green link in the EGR looks misshapen and partially collapsed. I also notice a lot of corrosion. Just my 2 cents.

acvr4
08-28-2013, 08:48 PM
Thanks guys - the green insert was good until I snapped it :( but I figured that with the corrosion on the surface that it also got into the electric motor.
I drove out to a dealer a bought a new one this morning :) Seem good to go. Did an oil change too - Walmart $25 for 5gal jug of Mobil 1 0-40 :)
I took it to a job ran great and when I left it started right up.
I'm thinking that the EGR was at fault for everything but either way new crank sensor is installed and a new EGR valve.
For anyone interested Freightliner of Hartford is a great place to get parts. There prices were cheaper than any other place and beat Ebay people. The Sales lot has 2 - 06 3500 old Solve-it vans $8950 racks and tubes - but are a bit rusty and I'm sure they have lots of miles on them(didn't check).

acvr4
05-19-2014, 04:57 PM
Andy.
Your original problem was most likely the cam sensor not the crank sensor. The crank sensor is not as temperature sensitive as the cam sensor. Eric

Well I have an occasional hesitation back when it gets hot after a few jobs. I'm going to go for the cam sensor now.
It runs great most of the time just later in the day after several stops and I think time for the heat to cause it. it will hesitate. The other day I pulled over and it was bad enough to stall out. No Codes but it started right up after a few seconds it cleared and I was able to return home.
Next day it was fine. :wtf:

MercedesGenIn
05-20-2014, 08:47 PM
Hi Andy,
If there were no stored codes relating to crank or cam signals I would doubt it is cam or crank sensor issues , problems here will normally both cause a 'synchronisation' error to be flagged and stored in the ECU to be later read. These will not clear from the fault list unless deleted manually. MIL lamp may not light on dash unless fault is hard and permanent, but will always store the error record.
All the best
Steve

acvr4
05-21-2014, 08:24 PM
Hey Steve,
There are no codes stored and it doesn't trigger any engine lights. If not heat problem with the Cam sensor any idea what it could be ? This is now becoming a daily problem - not bad enough to strand me but I get the hiccups it seems every day now. I know what ever it is it's doing to go and I'll have a problem.

Andy

MercedesGenIn
05-22-2014, 06:56 PM
Hi Andy,

I will plead total ignorance of US spec engines, but if you have a MAF on that model air mass metering can cause these issues. If you do have MAF unplug it and run the vehicle for a day and see if there is still problems. On disconnection the ECU will apply default air mass values, and if all runs well it should give you an indication if the fault is probably connected to this. If you don't have one fitted on your model I apologise.

Just to be 100 per cent that no air is being drawn with the fuel, make sure when you swapped out the fuel filter you replaced the water in fuel sensor and absolutely rotated it correctly under the bowl (if you have one fitted) and also make sure the black plastic non return valve on top of the filter is seated correctly with a good O ring seal - Have a close look for hairline cracking here too.
I am not sure if its time to do a DIY leak off test now you don't have any fault codes caused by the other items you have already rectified. At least now you are in a good position to fault find just the one fault and not a collection, with one problem masking another.
Good luck
Steve

Edit - May also be worth checking intake air temp sensor is not reading a way off what it should be (perhaps your scanner will allow this)

icarus
05-22-2014, 07:10 PM
What are you using to scan for codes...a dealer level scan system?

Icarus

acvr4
05-27-2014, 05:58 PM
Icarus - not a dealer level - I have the ScanGuageII installed in the van plus I have a CreadrV1 reader too.
Steve I tried disconnecting the MAS and van will run but it effects the turbo boost. I still happened when I had it disconnected.

MercedesGenIn
05-28-2014, 09:17 AM
http://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=33019

I don't know if this worth a look Andy.

Regards Steve

acvr4
05-31-2014, 01:50 PM
I have been monitoring the Fuel Pressure and it seem good. The one OBDII tested has data streaming. Had a spell yesterday and the Crank sensor triggered - I had just replaced that last fall - not sure what's happening. I think I need professional help :)