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zmotomann
08-22-2013, 12:10 AM
I have a 04 Sprinter 140 Passeger T1N:bash::bash::bash:
Note I park on a slanted drive way at home
I got in it the other day crank no start. try again started all seemed good drove all day and running around. next morning crank no start tried multi times.... felt the fuel lines and they felt soft. so I put a small hose i the tank with a rag as a seal and blew in and prssuresized the tank and it started right up. I got around for a few days like this , sometimes it started sometimes not. So talked with guys at Europarts SD and I was going to order a pick up pump for the fuel tank. he said I would change the fuel filter and lines at the filter first. did that, it started up fine when I was done , started it a few times no problem, next day go out no start ,had to crank it 4 times to get it to start.
have over 1/4 tank of fuel in it. dont want to do the tank pump job if not sure thats the issue, any ideas any one???????
Thanks,
zman

zmotomann
08-22-2013, 12:12 AM
test reply

sailquik
08-22-2013, 12:57 AM
zmotoman,
You need to pull the fuel line that feeds into the fuel filter off, and simply turn on
the key. Have a pail or bottle ready as you should be getting a solid stream of fuel @
60-80 PSI.
If not, check the fuel pump fuse, and if that's good you will need to drop your fuel tank, and replace the electric fuel pump in the tank.
If you get fuel at the inlet to the filter, check the outlet from the filter (might need a length
of the proper size hose for this) and see if you get about the same fuel flow as before the filter.
Your '04 Sprinter, with the electric booster pump in the tank will have no issue getting fuel up to the high pressure pump on the front of the engine if all the lines are clear and the booster pump is working as it's designed to work.
Roger

zmotomann
08-22-2013, 02:42 AM
Thanks Roger,

Will do those simple tests and post results.

How do you know if you have a heater on your pick up pump?
If it is the pick up pump that's the next question to order one.

Zman

zmotomann
08-23-2013, 12:01 AM
Roger,

I just pulled the outlet line on the filter and turned the key on it filled a 12oz bottle in seconds. van starts but needs to be cranked a few times??? Next thing to check?

thanks for the help. :bash::bash:

sailquik
08-23-2013, 12:53 AM
Crank position sensor....EGR valve.... could be any number of things.
Do you have a Scan Gauge II or similar?
Does anyone in the Tucson area have a DAD diagnostic unit.
The easiest way to find the best way forward from here is to get your 2004 Sprinter hooked up to a good T1N capable scan tool.
Obviously, you were under the impression (a lot of owners new to Sprinters have the same impression) that if it won't start, it must be because the fuel line to the engine is leaking back and there is no fuel at the front of the engine.

That scenario only occurs on the '02 and'03 OM-612 engines. Those earlier Sprinters do not have an electric (or any other kind) of booster pump and depend on the pump up at the top front of the engine to pull fuel all the way up from the tank. Any tiny vacuum leak, and no start due to no fuel at the pump.

Your OM-647 Sprinter (model years '04-'06) has a strong booster pump to get fuel up the high pressure pump on the top front of the engine.
Your booster pump seems to be working as advertised so your starting issue is not lack of fuel at the high pressure pump.

Is you engine turning over very slowly/sluggishly?
If so, charge your battery as even with the booster pump supplying lots of fuel to the high pressure pump, sometimes the engine does not turn over fast enough for the high pump to develop the required fuel pressure to satisfy the fuel rail high pressure sensor.
Is there any apparent fuel leakage around the seams in your high pressure pump up on the front of the engine.
A few of those have had the internal fasteners that hold the parts of the pump together loosen up.
If you find it's leaking there, get in touch with Dr. A (Andy Bittenbinder) at the Global Sprinter Centre.
He can rebuild your pump quite economically.
But I'll bet it's not a fuel issue.

Best thing to do is scan it.....then you will have an idea if it's perhaps the EGR is gummed up/not operating correctly, the crankshaft sensor not picking up the correct signal, lots of electronic and sensor type issues that a plain old nuts and bolts mechanic simply cannot deal with.
Even if you took it to your local Mercedes Benz authorized Sprinter dealer (I know, the tow would be a $$ + PITA) but they can hook your Sprinter up to the MB SDS diagnostic system (Star Diagnostic System) and read a lot of the sensors and tell you which one (s) are causing your starting issues.
They can read a lot of older codes that are stored in your ECM and that can lead directly to the current issue if you look at the newest first then work back in the history of your particular Sprinters stored Diagnostic Trouble codes.
Getting it scanned will save you buying a bunch of parts that aren't bad.
Just changing this and changing that can cost significantly more that if costs to have it scanned at an authorized Sprinter dealer.
Looks like there is a Sprinter dealer right there in Tucson:
MERCEDES-BENZ OF TUCSON
6001 E. SPEEDWAY BLVD.
TUCSON, AZ 85712
Phone: (520) 886-1311
Call and make an appointment for their service staff to run the MB SDS on your problem.
If you have a Dodge or Freightliner (could be either one in 2004 you might also check it there is a Dodge dealer still doing Sprinters, or a Freightliner Sprinter dealer near you.
Hope this helps,
Roger

zmotomann
08-23-2013, 01:25 AM
Thanks Roger,
I have access to a scan tool. Will run a scan and see what's stored in vault codes. the van starts I can drive it all day and it runs good that's the funny part. Just after it sits she wants done help to start done times.

Will advise code read out.

Thanks again Roger.

sailquik
08-23-2013, 02:28 AM
zmotormann,
Here is the "effectiveness hierarchy" of the various scan tools:
Best: MB SDS (dealer only)
Better: DRB-II (I heard the Dodge dealers had these)
Good: DAD unit (from Dr. A) a recycled Carsoft device from Europe. Works well on T1N Sprinters as that is what it was originally designed for.
Snap On unit with the right attachments may be OK as well.
Scan Gauge II/ UltraGauge EM/DashDAQ Generic...not good for diagnostics, but work well to watch "on the road" performance. Can show low boost, maybe fuel pressure??
Other generic scan tools....almost worthless on a T1N...completely worthless on an NCV3.
Roger

zmotomann
08-24-2013, 08:51 PM
I have not run a fault codes yet, my friend with the scan tool from Dr A( early version) have not hooked up yet.

see if this points to anything.

tried it in the morning crank no start 3 4 tries

4 hours later walk out it starts right up I drive it for 3 hours running around runs perfect. I didn't shut it off.

5 hours later walk out to leave turn key on every things lights up on dash turn key to start.

nothing.. not a sound just what's powered up by key on try 6 7 times nothing when key turned to start position.

check battery little low 12.6v put charger on there get up over 13.6v
try again a few times nothing.

leave it for a while, still l nothing. 45, min later leaving try it for ****s and giggles, starts right up???

next AM try it crank 2 3 times no state.. 4 try starts. runs

check and reseat grounds at battery and fire wall check cond. of copper ground under fuel filter all seems ok. I notice when I hook up the battery charger that something starts running or making noise up in engine dept. when jumper cables are attach ???
I hooked up a test light to the disconnected neg cable on the battery and run the test light as my jump and it lights up so there seems to be a draw in there// trying to isolate the circuit now???:bash::bash:

I love my sprinter VAN!!!!!!!!!!!!

NelsonSprinter
08-24-2013, 10:14 PM
If the thing that runs with a boost from cables is the rad fan, you may have an error with the engine control unit software, and this can be corrected by sending the ECU to SOS Diagnostics, Oregon.

Or you might have a loose wire/ bad connection to or poor Crankshaft timing sensor,

Or you may have water in the filter, open the bottom drain valve and see if it's all diesel or some water at first.

zmotomann
08-29-2013, 06:21 PM
Ok I thought I had this sorted out, when the key was in the crank position and there was no cranking by wiggling the key it would crank... sometimes start sometimes just crank..
I bought a new ignition switch $40 installed thing started up 30 times drove it for hours all good stopped later in the day try restart... will not crank.... check battery 12.5v get a jump starts right up
drive home all good I go out later get a new battery and put it in it in wont start.... jump it starts right up... get home charge all night come out in am cranks 4 - times no start on 5th nothing as usually all the lights on dash come on and key to crank pos not a sound but after a few seconds with the key held in the crank position the ac van turns on...... tried a jump even thought battery is good nothing.... so I tap on the fuse box on the steering Colum and it starts to crank in small increment's like I was trying to index it....... I have swamped around the relays at the bottom there to see if it mad a difference. any ideas anyone???

NelsonSprinter
08-29-2013, 06:49 PM
my humble theory:
The column's fuse box may need to be pushed up while the hazard light and multifunction are pushed down to re-connect the two better, or replace the fusebox , it may be causing electrical gremlins/ drain/ shorting

Or it may be a bad brake switch connection or sensor

zmotomann
08-29-2013, 07:04 PM
Thanks NelsonSprinter,
I will give it a go ..The bolt on the top is stripped so to remove the thing I have to deal with that. will try some pressure on fuse box and see what happens. and check other switchs as mentioned

Zman

zmotomann
08-30-2013, 03:00 AM
Ok ran the fault codes on a launch diagnostic tool .

Read these codes first
B1040
B1041
B1042
B1470
B1010

Cleared faults and only b1040. Came back

No can communications

No power on any ECM fuses at steering colum.

With key on ac fan runs constant....

Where to begin???????

Aqua Puttana
08-30-2013, 03:37 AM
Ok ran the fault codes on a launch diagnostic tool .

Read these codes first
B1040 - CAN ECM
B1041 -CAN ABS/driving systems
B1042 -CAN TCM
B1470 - Fuel Sensor
B1010 - Airbag

All are CAN related.

Cleared faults and only b1040. Came back

That generally points to the ECM.

Where to begin???????

You need to understand that the aux cooling fan combined with no starter action is your best diagnostic clue.

The aux fan is triggered not only by A/C refrigerant pressure but also by high coolant temps.

This fan is activated by the HVAC module which receives coolant temp info from the Engine Control Module via the CAN com network.

If this fan turns on when you switch on the ignition AND the engine starter will not activate with a turn of the key- then the HVAC module is not receiving coolant temp which results in a worst case temp substitution and the aux fan is activated to 'save' the engine.

No coolant temp from ECM can be due to faults in the com network or a ECM which is not powered up or less likely, a faulty ECM.

Power and grounds to ECM can be checked with pin-out info at the body plug of the ECM. Com issues can be checked by using wiring diagram and CAN resistance values.

Most likely cause in most cases is power issue to ECM which trace back to the fuse/relay panel under the steering column or ground issues which trace to the body connection stud.

Doktor A

If you click on the blue arrow in Andy's quote box it will take you to the thread he posted in.

vic

zmotomann
08-30-2013, 04:35 PM
Awesome Thank You!!!!:cheers:

I must mention this as now it is all starting to make a pattern.

1 ac has been acting funny

2 when I had the key in the crank position and tapped on the fuse panel on Colum it would try to start. click click

Where would I find the pin call outs on the ECU to trace out.

I do have the factory manual, but the diagrams in there don't look like fun to follow.

and it seems that the fuse panel is a source of a problem, where should I get one EBay? etc or take this apart and see whats up?


I am new to the fourm and am trying to learn to dig threw so much great info.


Thanks again!!!!!!
zman

NelsonSprinter
08-30-2013, 06:52 PM
Awesome Thank You!!!!:cheers:

where should I get one EBay? etc or take this apart and see whats up?

I am new to the fourm and am trying to learn to dig threw so much great info.

Thanks again!!!!!! zman

The ODB plugin is at the very bottom left of the dash, 10 o'clock to the brake pedal

eBAY has had fuse panels, so does Europarts-sd.com, Berry Dodge Sprinter Parts

zmotomann
09-04-2013, 03:36 PM
Thanks,

I have the factory manual what I am looking for is the info to trace the wires in the ECU. Pin by pin to see what's what. I have a new fuse panel on the way. The one in there the top bolt is stripped. Hoping by changing the panel, charging the ac and topping of the coolant, clearing faults again Weill get my baby strait.

NelsonSprinter
09-05-2013, 04:54 AM
Very common for the top bolt to be stripped from overtightening.
Try inserting a flat screwdriver above/below the bolt to stop the turning of the other part which has a flat side, the flat screwdriver against it while turning the bolt might free it up.

zmotomann
09-27-2013, 07:39 PM
Ok. So I got a new fuse block 1 on steering colum,
Installed it , van started right up . Ran it for a few minutes all seemed fine.
Turned off . Then that back to no crank no start aux fan turns on in key in crank pos.

Tried to run a scan and reader would not communicate with engine management or instrument cluster but did with abs and trans.

ALso found the plug on trans full of oil cleaned that and reinstalled . Trying now to get the pin call outs to check the modules.

Going online to Alldata was recommended to get a download of diagrams and pin ID.

Don't want to bring it to the dealer I feel I will be hammered pretty good. But the damn thing started and ran?

Any ideas are welcome!!

surlyoldbill
09-27-2013, 09:03 PM
Was it on this thread that someone mentioned some ECU specific wires near the exhaust can get worn and ground out?

Are the fuses good on the new block, particularly #17?

zmotomann
09-28-2013, 01:20 AM
I checked all fuses and 17 was good, looked around header did not see any harness close to anything. thanks for the tip.... vans been down almost a month its killing me!!!!!!

zmotomann
10-04-2013, 04:22 PM
OK!!!!

So I got the pin call outs for the ECM I went threw the trouble shooting steps and
it's telling me that the ECM is bad.. grounds are good and the signals are going in but there not coming out. I just don't believe it because the dam thing has started and ran fine at times with this intermittent problem....

This is what is also interesting I have new battery in there and (I made a volt meter and put that in my accessory outlet so I could voltage reading all the time )

if I turn the key on to crank there's no start and the ac fan comes on in a second later. the norm in its downed state.

then if I put my battery charger / booster on the battery and up the voltage to the battery

the ac fan wont come on with the key in the crank position ?????

I am going to make three new grounds cable for the thing
1 will go from battery to engine
2 one from engine in same place to frame where original is
3 will go from engine to original body ground next to battery Negative

HELP!!!!!!!:bash::bash::bash::bash::bash::bash
if someone has the time and is really up on this please pm me or give me a call I have no confidence in my local dealer here in Tucson.
zman 520-907-6904


Can I repair the EMC???? there seems to be a debate on that and I just don't buy that its bad anyway.



.

A.Hayes
10-04-2013, 06:21 PM
Intermittent problems are such a pain...

I would try sending the ECM off, with SKREEM unit and keys, to SOS Diagnostics here in Oregon (no affiliation or direct experience with them myself). They can test the unit out of the van and offer re-programmed units if you need. Plenty of other forum members have mentioned them in other threads. They will certainly be much more reasonable than the dealer.

Good luck!

NelsonSprinter
10-05-2013, 03:30 AM
remove and send the ECM to SOS Diagnostics in Oregon , they specialize in testing and reprogramming Sprinter ECMs , Skreems and keys , and have fixed similar problems with other users here.

zmotomann
10-05-2013, 06:28 AM
Thanks guys!!!
Spoke to them today and will ship it out to them and have them do there magic.
What's great is I had dynocomp remap it a fews years back and up the HP and torque
And remove those 80 mph Govenors .

They say they can save that for me... Very happy, that was a pricey bit of work.

Will report results and how it goes on return of ECM!!!

Thanks again !!!!!!
Zman

zmotomann
10-17-2013, 06:38 AM
next!!!!:bash::bash::bash::bash::bash:

had inmotion tuning look at and test the ECM. James says as best as he can see it is working, seems good even tought its not 100% proven that is not the ECM.

the idea now is to find a used ECM for this year etc and plug it in and only turn key on not try to start and see it talks with a code reader. (mine doesn't talk to a code reader) but James can with his equipment ???.if the test ECM does James will copy my ECM and write it onto a new one since I have had performence tuning done in the past.

needles to say I am quite bummed the van has been down over a month....

Any input would be welcome. Does DR A do house call???

zman

Aqua Puttana
10-17-2013, 12:29 PM
... (mine doesn't talk to a code reader) but James can with his equipment ???....
zman
I don't believe that you mentioned that issue before, but I didn't review the thread.

You may have something affecting the CAN bus signals in vehicle. SOS would not have that on the bench.

Do you have any aftermarket electronic devices installed? There have been cases where an incorrectly installed radio or other device can screw up the communication. The speed signal wire on the radio should not be connected to anything.

Another potential problem area is the TCM connector(s) getting contaminated with transmission fluid. It can be cleaned if that condition is found. You did have some TCM CAN codes.

Wire harness damage or rub through anywhere could also be a problem.

If you do get a used ECM I would consider having them restore that one to factory settings. That way it eliminates the re-flash as a possible contributor. I know that it may be a long shot, but why leave anything to chance?

Good luck. vic

GREYGHOST
10-17-2013, 12:42 PM
Hi Vic, I just posted about not being able to access the TCM from my DAD. I should check my connector, it is the upgraded part with the new o-ring seal, not leaking anymore. I've done Trans fluid replacement with the Ryder Shell Trans fluid, that seemed to go well. It was a while back, trying to remember when the Trans stopped downshifting correctly.... It's been so long.
**I just realized Vic you are referring to the connection under the seat and I was thinking about the connector at the transmission. ** it's like the fourth Monday of the week for me.

surlyoldbill
10-17-2013, 02:54 PM
Inspect the wiring at the OBD connector to make sure everything is good? Mine seems to be flimsy, or at least what the port is mounted to.

zmotomann
10-26-2013, 10:20 PM
I got A DAD and cant get that to work with the laptop, and since there seems to be endless problems it seems with people not being able to read some of the modules in the system , I do not think that is the way I want to go trying to hunt down a can commnaction problem in the first place.. I am Really at a lose at what to do to test this thing to see what going on, I know the fan coming on is part of the key but what to do....have gotten lots of good suggestions but have had no luck..... looking for a needle in a big hay stack... be nice to know which end to start... one very bummed sprinter owner!!!!

JAM
10-27-2013, 12:23 AM
I got A DAD and cant get that to work with the he laptop, and since thee seems to be endless problems it seems with people not being able to read some of the modules in the system , I do not think that is the way I want to go trying to hunt down a commnaction problem in the first place.. I am Really at a loose at what to do to test this thing to see what the cummnacations problems is. What to do to fix this thing?? but to have it towed somewhere where someone knows what there doing on this thing. I know the fan coming on is part of the key but what to do....have gotten lots of good suggestions but have had no luck..... looking for a needle in a big hay stack... be nice to know which end to start... one very bummed sprinter owner!!!!

Hang in there zmotoman. I'm in the same boat as you. Different problem with the no crank no start. Took mine to the dealer and they could not figure out my problem.

NelsonSprinter
10-27-2013, 01:00 AM
Have you sent the ECU to SOS Diagnostics? Doing that has solved it for most with the fan-on/ no start

zmotomann
10-27-2013, 07:31 AM
I was about to send it to SOS, then James from inmotion tuning called and got me to send it to him, as I wrote in my last post he was able to talk to it on his bench and it all seemed to be working fine to him, he sent it back. Now I'm going to try and isolate the problem with a snap on code reader by unplugging models and see if we can isolate a area to where they may be the problem.

Thanks,
Frank

GREYGHOST
10-27-2013, 04:18 PM
My "crank no start issue" was a bad fuel injector. Andy Bittenbinder told me to always start with the fuel system. The injector was leaking off pressure and would not let the rail build to needed 23,000 psi. Please do a leak off test. Search this site. It's very straightforward. I had one injector fill a 3" tube in ten seconds. Replaced myself. Andy will sell you an injector and the seal ring and bolt. Good luck, john

zmotomann
10-27-2013, 09:17 PM
Were you able to comunacatie with the ECM???. I have a comunincation problems with modules and no start.
will research the injector.... the van was intermited for a bit ,but would start and run perfect ??

zmotomann
10-29-2013, 05:25 AM
Can anyone care to share there experiences with InMotion tuning???

pacman_34
10-29-2013, 06:18 AM
If I was in your shoes I would send the ecu to sos. Worst case they tell u its good and u lose 350. That would then eliminate the ecu as the culprit. I haven't heard of the other guys, but I've dealt with sos and they were able to solve my issue.

zmotomann
11-04-2013, 06:05 AM
UPDATE!!!!!!:thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:

Got the van going... I can't say enough good words about Doc A !!!! the short of it is
We spoke on the phone the other day for just a few minutes he gave me a few a few test to perform,( all off the top of his head,pin # etc's) ,I did the tests reported back to him and really in about 15 minutes of tests he then had me make a ground jumper wire with a on/ off in the middle. and bingo the damm thing started..... After almost 2 mounts of this and that.. Doc broke it down to a few simple tests...
the Key is aux. fan coming on with the key in the crank pos and no cranking..... I wont go into what he had me do because it may not be the same thing with your van if you have the same symptoms.... one thing is for sure to check. Make sure it pretty quite when you try this little test. put your ear close too or your finger on the Engine control relay which is in fuse panel # 1 on the steering colum the engine control relay is the middle of the three relays on the very bottom of the panel. best to take the cover and shroud around it off. two phillps head screws and a 10 mm nut on the bottom. the test is when you turn the key on that relay should click on and after the key is turned off 6 seconds later it should click off. in my case it was not powering up. Doc had me make up a seperate ground with the on/off to mimic that on /off connection by tapping it into pin # 44 wire from the ECM body plug side to groung. This proved to be my problem as to why my relay was not powering up.

So now that were running and have communication with the ECM now I will read all the codes write them down.. clear then of then drive it for a bit then read them again. Doc will look at what that indicates as I sent my ECM out to be copied and a new one flashed.

There may be more wrong besides a problem it seems with somthing inside the ECM. But looking back a little bit, before this all happend I had some altonator problems the led to a few jump starts trying to get it back home one day. replaced the altonator and not to long after that is when little things started happing that lead to this.....

Very happy to have my van back and will post the final results of what comes out the rest of this.

DOC A thanks you again for your time, skill and enthusiasm!!!!!!!

Cheers,
Zman

autostaretx
11-04-2013, 04:02 PM
For the curious, (i was) Pin 44 on ECM C2 (18 gauge, YeLlow/BLue) is the ENGINE CONTROL RELAY SIGNAL

As far as i can tell, it's a signal FROM the ECM to the "Wiper/Turn Signal/Engine Start" control module that's mounted in/on/behind Fuse Block 1 ... that module then activates the Engine Control Relay itself.

--dick

JAM
11-04-2013, 06:44 PM
hmm interesting. I am having the same issues but I can just flick or tap on the ecm relay and the fan shuts off, I turn the key back to off and it starts right up. Sometimes when that dont work I give it a jump with a running vehicle and it fires right up. I dont seem to think mines a bad ecm either cause it runs beautiful when it runs with no check engine lights or anything. My van also started doing this when my alternator went bad and I went through 3 remans before I finally bought a Bosch and put that in. Wonder if by jumping the vehicle it screws with the ecm. I know they say to not jump start motorcycles with car batteries cause it can fry the ecm. I hope you figure yours out zmotoman. Trust me, I been pulling my hair out too on this one. I just want the dam thing fixed. I cant afford down time with my biz. Please keep us posted.

zmotomann
11-04-2013, 07:09 PM
Dick,
Yes that is correct. Yellow with thin blue strip 18ga wire from pin#44


...
Frank

zmotomann
11-04-2013, 07:16 PM
hmm interesting. I am having the same issues but I can just flick or tap on the ecm relay and the fan shuts off, I turn the key back to off and it starts right up. Sometimes when that dont work I give it a jump with a running vehicle and it fires right up. I dont seem to think mines a bad ecm either cause it runs beautiful when it runs with no check engine lights or anything. My van also started doing this when my alternator went bad and I went through 3 remans before I finally bought a Bosch and put that in. Wonder if by jumping the vehicle it screws with the ecm. I know they say to not jump start motorcycles with car batteries cause it can fry the ecm. I hope you figure yours out zmotoman. Trust me, I been pulling my hair out too on this one. I just want the dam thing fixed. I cant afford down time with my biz. Please keep us posted.

Try swapping that relay with the one next to it there the same I believe??.. By tapping it and getting it to a change I would swap first.

I also replaced my fuse panel #1. Was not that much$$

Also I am adding all new grounds and a reserve battery also.

JAM
11-04-2013, 09:14 PM
Yep tried that along with new fb1. No go. Also new starter. I'm guessing the contacts in the relay make connection by tapping it. I think there may be a flaw in the copper circuitry in fb1. Took apart my old one and the copper bars seem like they fall out of there brackets. Hard to explain but if you get a new one take it apart and you might see what I'm talking about.

surlyoldbill
11-04-2013, 09:48 PM
People have discussed needing to re-solder parts of the fuseblock. In guitar amps we call this "dry solder", usually found in old tube amps where the solder has cracked and only makes contact (or loses contact) under the right conditions. The fix is to go over all the solder connections with a HOT soldering iron and re-solder it to the things it's supposed to be connected to.

Aqua Puttana
11-04-2013, 10:13 PM
... The fix is to go over all the solder connections with a HOT soldering iron and re-solder it to the things it's supposed to be connected to.
I agree. The trick is always hot enough, but not too hot.

I also learned to use a little bit of Solder Wick copper braid as a bridge, or to hold more solder in place where the mechanical joint seems a bit under designed or at all stressed. I use a similar technique with roof repair mesh and sealants like Sikaflex or other polyurethane. Solder and sealant alone aren't necessarily all that strong.

Solder Wick also can work to re-establish burned traces. I don't just use it only for solder removal. vic

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062744

JAM
11-04-2013, 10:30 PM
So could a brand new fb1 have bad solder joints?

zmotomann
11-28-2013, 02:11 AM
VAN is up and running perfect..... Can'tThank Andy enough!!!!! 10 min on the phone and it was running.... long story was that the ECM had some bad circuts in it most likley form a faulty altonator that and a few jump starts. SOS flashed me a copy of my ECM on a new one and it's been running great for 10 days now.... If I have any issuses i'll post update.


Cheers,

zman