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View Full Version : Sliding Door needs a 'Firm Hand'


glojo
08-14-2013, 04:46 PM
Our sliding door needs a very firm hand when closing which I feel is not right and a recipe for disaster. Is there an easy way of adjusting this door so that it will close with love and kindness as opposed to brute force and ignorance?

MikeHowe
08-14-2013, 05:07 PM
I had to slam my sliding door in order to shut it until, finally, it refused to shut completely - it didn't seem to want to engage with the latch at the rear end. I cleaned out the bottom runner (there was a bit of debris in there) and greased all the runners and wheels. Whilst this helped a little it didn't completely solve the problem. So I removed the panel on the inside of the door to reveal all of the opening/closing mechanism. I simply blasted the lot with WD40 and hey presto problem solved, the door now opens and closes easily.

Hope that helps in some way!

glojo
08-14-2013, 05:25 PM
I had to slam my sliding door in order to shut it until, finally, it refused to shut completely - it didn't seem to want to engage with the latch at the rear end. I cleaned out the bottom runner (there was a bit of debris in there) and greased all the runners and wheels. Whilst this helped a little it didn't completely solve the problem. So I removed the panel on the inside of the door to reveal all of the opening/closing mechanism. I simply blasted the lot with WD40 and hey presto problem solved, the door now opens and closes easily.

Hope that helps in some way!Hi Mike,
THANK YOU very much indeed for the prompt and helpful advice. I am no fan of WD40 but will definitely be using some silicon oil type spray to lubricate those locations. The van is still new having done less than 1000 miles and there is definitely not any dirt or debris laying about but your hey presto remedy is a 'must try' option.

Thanks again

John

pfflyer
08-14-2013, 05:38 PM
Sounds like an adjustment is needed. Factory lube should last longer than 1000 miles unless your van is several years old. A little extra lube would be worth a try. I know there are details and specs on door gaps for older models but if you only have 1000 miles a trip to the dealer might be the best approach. I always try to be in place to close our slider because people not use to this type of door tend to slam it. I like your description "with love and kindness".

glojo
08-14-2013, 05:49 PM
Sounds like an adjustment is needed. Factory lube should last longer than 1000 miles unless your van is several years old. A little extra lube would be worth a try. I know there are details and specs on door gaps for older models but if you only have 1000 miles a trip to the dealer might be the best approach. I always try to be in place to close our slider because people not use to this type of door tend to slam it. I like your description "with love and kindness".As you rightly say a trip is on the cards to sort this out as I hate having to use excessive 'closure' If it is easy to remove the door panel then I prefer that to having to drive all the way up to Exeter to have this looked at.

As you can imagine it would mean a special trip for my wife to go up to Exeter and then I doubt they would be able to do this whilst we waited although that is what I would ask for, as the only other option is to leave it with the dealer whilst she 'twiddled' her thumbs for a few hours.

icarus
08-14-2013, 05:59 PM
Adjusting the door is quite easy, but not intuitive.

If you open the door fully, look at the rear of the door, at eye height. As you roll the door closed, you will see that the latch will line up with a steel hoop on the truck. What happens is the door Assy is on a jack screw, and over time settles so that the latch and the hoop (strike plate) don't line up.

You have to raise (usually) or lower the door until they line up properly, and when they do, the door should close with just a gentle push. To adjust the door, you need a small (7 mm iirc) box wrench. You can see the stub of the jack screw at the back of the door. Turning the screw 1/8 turn at a time is all you can do, raises or lowers the door until it is right. I can't remember if thte is a locking nut on the jack screw, if so you need to losen the lock nut before you move the jack screw, and then retighten.

Hope this helps, good luck and keep in touch,

Icarus

pfflyer
08-14-2013, 06:00 PM
My dealer gives a loaner (car not van) when in for service. It is still a pain to make the trip because I don't have any customers in the area to call on while they work. Hopefully I wont be making many trips. As you lube work the handle to make sure lube gets in all areas. Good luck.

cahaak
08-14-2013, 09:12 PM
My door was closing in the same way. Turns out that over time the steel hoop / pin on the van had moved in some. I adjusted it out a bit with T60 bit and now it closes great. Take a look at the door when it is closed to see if all the body parts line up. In my case, with the door closed, the door was actually in farther than the panel behind it. I move it out some and it works great now. You do need to keep up with the lube of cleaning of the various mechanisms, but that does not sound like the issue in your case.

Chris

glojo
08-14-2013, 09:43 PM
My door was closing in the same way. Turns out that over time the steel hoop / pin on the van had moved in some. I adjusted it out a bit with T60 bit and now it closes great. Take a look at the door when it is closed to see if all the body parts line up. In my case, with the door closed, the door was actually in farther than the panel behind it. I move it out some and it works great now. You do need to keep up with the lube of cleaning of the various mechanisms, but that does not sound like the issue in your case.

ChrisThanks Chris and constructive advice as ever and yes I can confirm the body parts do line up and it ius so reassuring to read posts that describe how when working properly the door slides shut silkily smooth.

ionlyski
08-15-2013, 09:57 PM
Mine worked like that brand new from the factory. I removed the panel and installed heavy sound mats, the one that just stick to the surface. I did this because I suspected it was a weight or mass issue and it works perfectly now. I spread the weight though out the door but put more of it towards the rear.

Arne

mean_in_green
08-16-2013, 10:58 AM
Sliding door alignment can take a little while on an NCV3 John. Look at ones out on the road - most are poorly adjusted. I spent a couple of hours getting the gaps looking good, but it has never closed as easily as the T1N's did. It is a much heavier door, so I've taken to closing it using the full run of the track and using the weight to help it close first time.

PlantLady
08-16-2013, 10:32 PM
Have you tried closing the door with one of the other doors or a window open? Mine closes much easier since I had a vent installed.

hein
08-17-2013, 04:28 PM
Here are some pictures of the adjustment points for reference and further discussion.
First step is to fit the door to the body- even gap all around and flush with the body surface.
Then adjust the strikers, pins and pockets to line up properly when closed.

http://www.impact3d.com/NCV3_sliding_door_track_hinge.jpg

http://www.impact3d.com/NCV3_sliding_door_front_lower.jpg

http://www.impact3d.com/NCV3_sliding_door_upper_track_support1.jpg

http://www.impact3d.com/NCV3_sliding_door_upper_track_support2.jpg

http://www.impact3d.com/NCV3_sliding_door_upper_latch+bumper.jpg

http://www.impact3d.com/NCV3_sliding_door_lower_bumper.jpg

http://www.impact3d.com/NCV3_sliding_door_front_locator.jpg