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woodash
08-13-2013, 05:41 AM
WiF dash light started to display intermittently and now permanent. No water present out of drain valve. Tank recently removed and inspected for contamination (but not drained). New fuel filter. Do these sensors go bad or are they pretty much bulletproof? Is there a test procedure to determine if the fault is with sensor or wire lead? Im assuming to wire lead runs straight to ECU so no fuse check.

autostaretx
08-13-2013, 04:43 PM
The WiF sensor really is an "active" sensor .. it gets +12v and ground from the ECM, and there's a signal wire talking to the ECM. Thus there are transistors and stuff inside it.

So, as with all things electronic, it is possible for it to "fail" (it's not just two wires dipping their toes in...).
But i'd also check the cable harness between ECM and sensor, and that the sensor's connector is firmly seated without a chunk of debris trapped in the joint.

What happens if you simply *unplug* the WiF connector at the filter?

--dick

woodash
08-13-2013, 05:31 PM
I currently have the sensor unplugged from the harness and the dash light is permanently illuminated. Is this as expected? If I looped the two wire leads together would it trick the ecm into thinking the system was functioning and get rid of the dash light?

woodash
08-15-2013, 04:36 AM
Tested voltage at wire harness plug and got reading of 12.3 volts.
I was not sure how to test sensor once plugged back in? Anyways I cleaned sensor and harness plug ends with electronics cleaner. I discovered when attempting to replug sensor that it would not fully seat into harnesses plug. The plug on the harness has some clear silicone type seal that was swollen, degrading and inhibiting proper connection. I removed what I could with a scalpel and tweezers and reconnected. I tested by looking on dash and light is now gone. Hopefully, it will remain that way because those sensors are arduous to remove and install. My sensor definitely shows wear on the ear tabs and o ring. I ordered a replacement o ring to be on the safe side. Time will tell.

MikeHowe
08-15-2013, 08:02 AM
Keep an eye on this. I had a similar problem with wear on the WIF sensor and this turned out to be the source of all my air in fuel lines woes, which in turn led to very difficult starting problems (air was being sucked in past the sensor - I have an 03 T1N). I have installed a fuel filter with no WIF sensor and my air in fuel problems have disappeared:thumbup:

Aqua Puttana
08-15-2013, 01:24 PM
Keep an eye on this. I had a similar problem with wear on the WIF sensor and this turned out to be the source of all my air in fuel lines woes, which in turn led to very difficult starting problems (air was being sucked in past the sensor - I have an 03 T1N). I have installed a fuel filter with no WIF sensor and my air in fuel problems have disappeared:thumbup:
Good advice. IF Woodash has an OM612 engine then what you say is an important consideration.

But, we don't know because he hasn't added his vehicle info to his posts.


A Canned Posting Add-on

Please take the time to add your vehicle info to all your posts automatically!!!!! It's easy to do. It will help you to get answers. Thank you.

Here's how to do it.

The most direct method is probably in your "Details".
After you are logged in click on "Private Messages" (or “Quick Links”) in the upper right corner.
On the left side under "Your Profile" click on "Edit your Details".
Scroll down to the "Custom User Title" box.
Click in that box and type the information.
I suggest “Vehicle year – NAFTA or 311, etc.” depending upon your location.
Scroll down to the "Save Changes" box. Click on that and you are done.

Another place is in your "Signature".
Click on "Private Messages" (or “Quick Links”) in the upper right.
On the left look for "Setting and Options".
Click on "Edit Signature".
Scroll down to the text box which looks like what you use to add a post to the forum. Type in the information you want.
I used “NAFTA 2004 OM647 140 2500 Std Roof >246,000 mi. DAD” [/QUOTE]
Scroll down to "Preview Signature". If the preview looks like what you want, scroll down to "Save Signature", click on that and you're done.

[Color="Red"]I don’t know what objection anyone could have to adding their model year and Sprinter detail information permanently. (You don’t need to include your location.) Consider it this way. Members of the forum will try to help you. Do you think that it is fair for one to expect anyone to dig up your vehicle information before they reply? You only need to add the info once using the guide above and you’re done. Sorry if I'm being too straightforward for some.

Thanks. vic

woodash
08-15-2013, 06:12 PM
I've made the suggested changes. Thanks for the info.

autostaretx
08-15-2013, 09:19 PM
If I looped the two wire leads together would it trick the ecm into thinking the system was functioning and get rid of the dash light?
In general on the Sprinter, that's a bad idea to do blindly.

The two leads you'd "loop" the Signal line to are either +12v or ground.
But i *suspect* that the signal lead has a much smaller range... something like (perhaps) +3v and ground.
So i would certainly *not* (without additional knowledge of what the signal voltage range is) tie the signal to +12v.
You'd stand a good chance of damaging the IC or ECM.
Very few of the Sprinter's signals use the full 12v range. Very very few.

I have to admit that i would be tempted to loop the signal line to ground, but even that's risky for some of the circuits that look for proximity to +12 instead of proximity to ground.

--dick