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View Full Version : 2006 low boost, P0101 and P2011 - newbie


f5hunter
07-13-2013, 06:32 AM
Apologies if this has been covered numerous times...I am on a trip and experiencing a potential problem with my (new to me) 06 Sprinter.

Going up long grade in California, I checked my OBDII reader on my smart phone to check load and water temp. Was surprised to see very low boost - 4psi at the most. actually saw vacuum when lifting off accelerator which I don't recall ever seeing. Van had normal boost - 16 or so yesterday. I checked trouble codes and have a P0101 mass air flow and a P2011 intake manf runner control circuit.

Van seems to have good power. Not all that familiar with these yet but the turbo hose at top of engine feels mushy at idle, I recall it being firmer from previous checks.

Any advice on what to start checking would be appreciated. Begin a long drive across the desert thru Vegas and further east...will I get the dreaded limp home mode thingy if I keep driving like this?

Thanks, Chris.

Aqua Puttana
07-13-2013, 11:38 AM
First let me extend you a hale and hearty welcome to the forum. 53397
...will I get the dreaded limp home mode thingy if I keep driving like this?
It sounds like you may have already been in a lower form of LHM at the time that you checked your pressure.

... I checked trouble codes and have a P0101 mass air flow and a P2011 intake manf runner control circuit.
Sprinter trouble codes read by a generic OBDII device are not always accurate. A 2006??... you don't have manifold runners that I know about.

...Van seems to have good power.
...


Thanks, Chris.
Have you rechecked the turbo pressure lately? You may have come out of the LHM event after an engine stop/start cycle. A hose leak or turbo resonator leak can hold enough pressure under lower power conditions, but open up at higher pressures like a long hill climb.

So many times these low power issues trace to leaks in the turbo charge air boost system. Carefully check all hoses for signs of oil residue or small splits. Check the turbo resonator for signs of oil residue at the seams.

The MAF is a calculated value which uses multiple sensors and inputs for monitoring and calculation. A MAF related code doesn't necessarily mean that the MAF sensor proper is at fault. This would be especially true when the code is revealed by a generic scan tool.

You can operate your Sprinter in normally aspirated LHM mode for quite some time before there is any real consequence. Your power will just be low.

Information, not a diagnosis. Good luck. vic

surlyoldbill
07-13-2013, 04:21 PM
Search forum for MAF test, there should be a proper ohm reading for a good MAF.
The MAF can get destroyed by poor fitting air filter.
The $50 aftermarket MAF is not a good choice for replacement, get the Bosch for $150 or OEM for $300.

f5hunter
07-13-2013, 05:00 PM
Thanks for the welcome and responses.

Just checked the hoses and tried to look at resonator. There is some soot/oil around the top of the hose connection that comes from the drivers side area of the radiator. The resonator is black plastic and looks fine from where the hose connects but I cant really tell the turbo side condition as its difficult to see.
The turbo actuator mechanisim floats up and down while revving engine. The top hose gets hard as engine revs. My tourque android app connected to the OBDII blue tooth reader shows light boost maxxing at 5psi while revving engine and light vaccum at idle.

Do have a minor coolant leak that appears to be coming from water pump area. Hard to see where thus is coming from exactly. I have put a quart of G-05 coolant to top off reservoir 2 days ago and level is still seen when I look.

I checked codes again with another reader...P0101 is the only code (other then glow plug codes) that shows up.

Will be heading to Vegas shortly. Would appreciate furthur advice on what to look for or reputable shops to stop at.

Thanks again.

f5hunter
07-13-2013, 06:28 PM
Update...
First couple of miles had normal boost - saw 20psi when I kicked it down a bit on ramp. Shortly after, boost dropped down, getting max of 6 or so and averages about 1 psi while going 65mph on the flat.

Checked turbo accuator in parking lot before I shut off. It wasnt moving when revving. Shut down and restarted and it moves when engine revs.

How much coolant do I put in reservoir? Thinking I may have overfilled it and that is what was leaking? Not leaking now...hate it when things fix themselves. Turbos dont have lube that resembles coolant do they? Light orange tint, clear and slightly oily.

Coast2Coast
07-14-2013, 04:19 PM
Search forum for MAF test, there should be a proper ohm reading for a good MAF.
The MAF can get destroyed by poor fitting air filter.
The $50 aftermarket MAF is not a good choice for replacement, get the Bosch for $150 or OEM for $300.


Not to get off topic... Where are you finding bosch MAF's for $150. That is a DEAL!

sailquik
07-14-2013, 05:04 PM
f5hunter,
When you were pulling up the long grade coming out of California (which grade as most of them are ~ 6% but I-15 (Cajon Pass) east of San Bernardino is probably the longest and steepest) what gear were you in?
Did you simply put your Sprinter in Drive and let it lug up that long, fairly steep, normally very hot (at this time of the year) grade in 5th gear (Overdrive 0.83:1)
Or did you take the advice of the more knowledgeable members of this forum and manually downshift to 4th gear (1:1 through the transmission) to bring your RPM up into the best power/best mileage range 2700-3200?
What axle ratio do you have?
The higher the axle ratio, in 2500 Sprinters, the more likely you are to over boost, pop a resonator or weak turbo hose, overheat, because your Sprinter will get to 100% of all the power it can make more quickly than the 3500's with the 4.182:1 rear axle ratio and 2500's with the 3.916:1 ratio.
When you %LOD gets to 99%...your Sprinters engine is packing in fuel at it's maximum rate (trying to make more horsepower than the %LOD is pulling out of it), your boost rate goes to the max. to balance the fueling rate to keep your emissions clean (and also to make as much horsepower as possible). So, you are running at 100% everything and your 2.7 liter Sprinter I5 engine is doing absolutely everything it's capable of.
Not a good situation for longer than about 30 seconds.
Contrary to popular opinion, your ScanGauge II will very quickly tell you that even @ < 2400 RPMs (max. torque RPM) your fueling rate (GPH) is ~3x what it is with 60% LOD.
Your boost will be at the max. (~>34 PSIA/~>21 PSIG) and all of your turbo plumbing and the intercooler will be hard as a rock trying to contain that much pressure over that much surface area.
Only thing you can do (as the driver) is manually downshift and possibly slow down a little to reduce the % LOD that is telling the ECM that you want max. power...using max. boost pressure...and max. fuel flow.
Bumping the RPMs up by ~500, by downshifting to 4th gear (NOT OVERDRIVE) will bring your RPMs up to ~2900-3200....precisely where you OM-647 makes its best overall power, and get the best fuel economy (when loaded enough to push the % LOD to > 65%).
Roger

shortshort
07-14-2013, 05:14 PM
Splits in the upper turbo hose can be hard to see. Never had the experience but the resonator can get a stealth leak too. Try cleaning the uppermost rubber turbo hose, then wrapping it in white gauze and going for a spin. Any fresh oil would source the leak.

surlyoldbill
07-14-2013, 05:55 PM
Not to get off topic... Where are you finding bosch MAF's for $150. That is a DEAL!

ebay, as usual. Mine just showed up yesterday.