Headlights burning out

red_johnny

Active member
So I searched and maybe using the wrong key words but I need to find a solution to the headlight burning out problem. I saw someone say use a diode but would like to know if thats the only fix. If it is how do I wire it? In line? What size diode in that case, would work best? I really like to drive with my lights on all the time. Thanks guys!
 

220629

Well-known member
...I saw someone say use a diode but would like to know if thats the only fix. If it is how do I wire it? In line? What size diode in that case, would work best?
I don't recall the discussion, but a silicon diode has about 0.7 forward voltage drop so a series silicon diode would reduce the voltage to your headlamps by about 5% when charging (using 13.8 volts as normal). Diode rating depends upon headlamp wattage. 55 watts would need about 4.5 amps continuous.


I really like to drive with my lights on all the time. Thanks guys!
What wattage headlamps are you using? I find that 55 watt headlamps have good longevity and give me enough light at night. The headlamp bulb size is the same for 55 watt or higher watt designs so for the most part less wattage = less heat (watt density) = longer life.

Have you checked and cleaned your common ground points and battery connections? Sometimes poor connections can contribute to small voltage spikes which can reduce lamp life. Perhaps you should monitor your system voltage by using a simple 12 power outlet (cigarette lighter style) connection. After the engine is running you should see between about 13.5 to 14.0 vdc. If you see voltages which are consistently above 14 volts then maybe you have a voltage regulator or voltage reference (poor/loose connection) problem. Sorry I can't offer more. Good luck. vic
 

Amboman

New member
Due to the physics of quartz halogen lamps dislike for taking knocks (bumps in the road) whilst hot or "on" combined with normal degradation or thinning of the tungsten filament lamp with usage its unlikely that a diode, Zener, SCR, or resistive modification will have any benefit. I would place an oscilloscope on the alternator output to highlight any unrewarding evident spikes after diagnosis i would try to change the manufacturer of the globe.
 

red_johnny

Active member
I don't recall the discussion, but a silicon diode has about 0.7 forward voltage drop so a series silicon diode would reduce the voltage to your headlamps by about 5% when charging (using 13.8 volts as normal). Diode rating depends upon headlamp wattage. 55 watts would need about 4.5 amps continuous.

What wattage headlamps are you using? I find that 55 watt headlamps have good longevity and give me enough light at night. The headlamp bulb size is the same for 55 watt or higher watt designs so for the most part less wattage = less heat (watt density) = longer life.

Have you checked and cleaned your common ground points and battery connections? Sometimes poor connections can contribute to small voltage spikes which can reduce lamp life. Perhaps you should monitor your system voltage by using a simple 12 power outlet (cigarette lighter style) connection. After the engine is running you should see between about 13.5 to 14.0 vdc. If you see voltages which are consistently above 14 volts then maybe you have a voltage regulator or voltage reference (poor/loose connection) problem. Sorry I can't offer more. Good luck. vic
Well, the prior owner told me about the headlights going out all the time and actually suggested that I keep a spare. I heard about reducing the tire PSI to help with the bouncing. What I was hoping for here was a solution and not band-aides to the problem. I have to say that the van does not bounce much on me so I don't see how that would be part of the problem but I will still reduce PSI. I will be using 55w and I will check connections and add dielectric grease when I add the new ones. Thanks for the suggestions thus far. I hope to hear more feedback. Additionally, is anyone aware of a HID kit? I mean a real kit that replaces the housings to add the projectors.
 

mendonsy

Member
I suspect that a HID kit could result in some serious problems on a Sprinter.
They are notorious for being very touchy about anything added to the electrical system. The HID ballasts generate high frequency noise that the Sprinter electronics probably would not like.
Our T1N averages about 1 pair of low beam bulbs a year. When one fails, the other one will usually fail about a week later.
 

red_johnny

Active member
My sprinter is a conversion and has tons of added electrical aftermarket goodies. Had zero problems with anything thus far. If it comes down to wiring a separate switch and powering directly off the battery to avoid bulbs going out then thats what I will do. I prefer long lasting solutions. Here shortly I will be adding ambient lighting to the interior overhead compartments that were part of the conversion. There are reading lights below the storage but only the single courtesy light when you open the door. At night it is very dark in there (as you know).
 

Doug

Member
My 04 3500 still have all of the light bulbs that was installed at the factory. If you have DRLs you might try disabling them to keep the bulbs longer. Or work a way to shut off the the lights on start up when you have a inrush of voltage.

Doug
 

red_johnny

Active member
The DRLs are inop, fuses are pulled. Pretty neat that your running on the same bulbs (knock on wood). I would like to replace all bulbs with LEDs in the near future but first things first is the headlights. :thumbup:
 

220629

Well-known member
Also, research quality lamps over cheap and cheerful?
I don't know about that. Based upon comments on forums regarding short globe life I bought 6 ea cheap and cheerful lamps from J.C. Whitney figuring that I would need them. I since have replaced each side once. The cheapies are lasting years now.

I run about 60 psi in my front tires, run lightly loaded so bounce a bit, and have DRL's which have not been defeated because I think they do add to highway safety.

That said, I'll likely lose one tonight just because I mentioned it here. :bash:


:cheers:

vic
 

mean_in_green

>2,000,000m in MB vans
Not always the case that expensive equals quality either is it Vic?! I can't find it now but there was an article I read about quality in lamp manufacturing...
 

surlyoldbill

Well-known member
Both of mine burned out at at the same time. Around 10 years/185k. I just put in standard "long life" replacements, because 10 years is pretty good for bulbs. No need for fancy HID or LED or other stuff that will f**k with the Sprinter's delicate electronic sensibilities.
 

Dingo

New member
Another thing to consider , unless the light unit was manufactured with HID in mind , retro fit kits are not always legal or are not as well defined in their beam pattern .

Most HID use a lens assy to focus the light source, halogen lamps have a shield in front of the bulb to remove this glare & direct light through a multi faceted lens ( all those little angle on the inside of the headlight glass )

In the Uk retro fit kits will fail the MOT test ( a yearly legal requirement for vehicle safety ) as the reflector cannot focus the new light souce & direct it through the lens assy .

If you can find HID headlights from a later model that fit your motor , then all is well swap & fit away .

Otherwise fit xenon filled halogen bulbs for a whiter light , but expect to swap them more often when they fail .

Oh and the same goes for LED headlight bulbs & focusing/ beam patterns as it does for HID kits
Nothing worse than some halfwit blinding you at night with poorly adjusted lights

BUT i would definately clean any earth points & ALL conncetions in & around headlight assy . My 312 had a spell of burst bulbs , it was the mulitplug on light unit that was making a duff connection . Soon cured & no problems since :shhh:
 
Last edited:

red_johnny

Active member
Another thing to consider , unless the light unit was manufactured with HID in mind , retro fit kits are not always legal or are not as well defined in their beam pattern .

Most HID use a lens assy to focus the light source, halogen lamps have a shield in front of the bulb to remove this glare & direct light through a multi faceted lens ( all those little angle on the inside of the headlight glass )

In the Uk retro fit kits will fail the MOT test ( a yearly legal requirement for vehicle safety ) as the reflector cannot focus the new light souce & direct it through the lens assy .

If you can find HID headlights from a later model that fit your motor , then all is well swap & fit away .

Otherwise fit xenon filled halogen bulbs for a whiter light , but expect to swap them more often when they fail .

Oh and the same goes for LED headlight bulbs & focusing/ beam patterns as it does for HID kits
Nothing worse than some halfwit blinding you at night with poorly adjusted lights

BUT i would definately clean any earth points & ALL conncetions in & around headlight assy . My 312 had a spell of burst bulbs , it was the mulitplug on light unit that was making a duff connection . Soon cured & no problems since :shhh:
Which is why I was looking for a true HID kit which would come with new projectors but good advice none-the-less. On the side that burnt out the plastic connector is broken. Looks like that plastic has gone through a couple of heat cycles which made it brittle. I will look for replacement connectors and fix both sides. It still has the metal connectors just the plastic housing is breaking away.
 

autostaretx

Erratic Member
I went to do a favor for a neighbor, and he said "do you know both of your headlights are out?"
In-city it was hard to tell, and the little "parking light" -style bulbs in the headlamp cavity kept other drivers from blinking at me.
Part of the trip was driven with the high beams.

The next (non-rainy) day i took out the bulbs, hoping it wasn't going to turn into a "replace the multi-function switch" exercise.
Nope: one H7 had "fast blown" (entire coiled section of filament disappeared), one had "simply blown" (coil fully there with minor gap).

But the high beam's H1 came out looking like the photo shows:

h1bulb.jpg

... yup... no bulb (and no glass fragments visible in the headlamp unit, either).
The filament is broken near the bend from "vertical" to "horizontal" at the top.

The lack of damage to the rest of the tungsten tells me that the bulb was missing when current was applied, so it burned the gap before the coil had come to full heat.

i was amused...
--dick
p.s. and stunned by the "rated life" on bulb packaging... "normal" is only 335 hours?
Long Life is 500 hours? (and the snazzy types went down to 110 hours).
My OEM bulbs seem to have lasted 8 years ... i think.
p.p.s. the Sylvania "Basic" H1 bulb was an exact OEM replacement: Osram for Osram (as marked on the metal), made in Germany.
 
Last edited:

Top Bottom