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Ogre
01-30-2008, 03:06 PM
I have an 06 Long and Tall, 83K on the odometer. I woke up this morning after sleeping in the van last night with a generator powered heater. I started the van up, pulled my thermal curtains down to start defrosting the inside windows because they were frozen. Anyways I let the engine temp get to 180, then I turned the heater/defroster on level one-4, nothing happened. I checked and replaced the blown 30A fuse, thinking that was the problem. I tried the heater again on all fan levels and the only level it worked on was #4. It's also making a strange noise from the blower motor. Is it a possibility that some of the condensation built up on the blower motor/wheel and caused it to freeze?

Has anyone ever experienced this before wand what did you do to remedy it. Any help would be appreciated because i have no real heat in here which makes it difficult to live in it and do my job.

talkinghorse43
01-30-2008, 04:15 PM
Must be some reason why the 30 amp fuse blew. Others have had problems with the blower motor bearings and lubrication of them. Sounds like you now need to install a new blower motor resistor.

dpw
01-30-2008, 05:33 PM
It could be the same issue I had as the symptoms sound familiar. I removed the blower motor and lubed the two bearings in there. It's been working for 2 months now. Its a fairly easy job and took about an hour.

Douglas

sikwan
01-30-2008, 05:41 PM
I tried the heater again on all fan levels and the only level it worked on was #4.

2nd the resistor fix to see if that fixes it first.

http://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1534&highlight=fan+speed

dpw
01-30-2008, 06:34 PM
from the yahoo group:
Heater blower motor High speed only fix.
Posted by: "yahoogroups@bsupply.us" yahoogroups@bsupply.us ggoetz111
Mon Jan 28, 2008 12:41 pm (PST)
Blown resister module causes heater motor to run only on high speed.

The resister module is on the heater fan shroud, just under the hood up
front, left of middle. It is black plastic with 4 wires coming out. A green
a yellow and two of white yellow black mix NOT the one with Red wires.
Disconnect the harness plug, little tabs on each end must be pushed in while
plug is pulled up Then on the RH side there is a tab that you push to the
left this will release and slide the resister module to the left about ½ “.
The resister module will now come up (top away from you to clear housing)
and out. The following is from the manual but basically with an OHM meter
set to R1 the needle should deflect far right or show 1 to 5 ohms between
any two terminals, if any two are open circuit (no movement or reading) the
unit is bad. Local Sprinter dealer had one in stock and it cost me 32.00
Wow I have fan and heat now. The repair book lists several other causes for
the motor on high speed only but this is the most likely cause and is the
easiest to check.

Disconnect the Blower Motor Resistor Block harness connector.

Measure the resistance between Blower Motor Resistor Block cavity 2 and
cavity 1.

The approximate resistance should be 1.4 ohms.

Measure the resistance between Blower Motor Resistor Block cavity 2 and
cavity 3.

The approximate resistance should be 0.8 ohms.

Measure the resistance between Blower Motor Resistor Block cavity 2 and
cavity 4.

The approximate resistance should be 1.6 ohms.

Is the resistance as specified for each circuit?

All

Yes ! Replace the Automatic Temperature Control (ATC) in accordance

with the Service Information.

Perform BODY VERIFICATION TEST - VER 1.

No ! Replace the Blower Motor Resistor Block in accordance with the

Service Information.

gggGary

from Wisconsin

Ogre
02-04-2008, 04:59 PM
Hey guys, sorry for not responding sooner. Been busy running across the US, making deliveries. I had to order the part from Stoops Freightliner in Indi, as they seemed like the only ones able to get it. Anyways I picked up the part this morning and just installed it. Guess what it solved the problem and it was cheap too. I just wanted to thank ya'll for diagnosing the problem and saving me a couple of hundred $$ in dealer service fees. :cheers:

luckwoodhaveit
10-30-2008, 06:22 AM
Greetings,

Have an 06 Sprinter with 70K. Fan speed resistor went bad! I actually took the resistor apart to see what may have caused the problem. Seems that even though it is covered in a hard ceramic material, it develops cracks allowing for moisture to migrate down to the resistance wire wrapped on the substrate. This causes the internal resistance wire to degrade, get brittle and eventually fracture. The amount of corrosion on the actual wire inside was astonishing under the microscope. My resistor did not actually burn out, it just broke internally. I can say that this does seem like a design flaw. It should be re-designed to be much much more reliable. I think I'll build my own resistor that will work for the life of the vehicle. Because @ approx. 70K lifespan and a million+ miles of projected use of my van, I'll have to spend about $500 to keep the fan running on MB resistors over the lifetime. Seems very unreasonable to me.

Any other vehicle I have owned, I have never had a resistor break down so soon! Love the Toyota....

In the same month my auxiliary heater also does not work.
My radio sometimes stays on after the key is removed, killing my battery if not used for a couple of days.
So far, I am distressed by the surprisingly random electrical gremlins I am encountering on my first Sprinter at such low miles.

Are these common problems?

Luckwoodhaveit

sikwan
10-30-2008, 03:08 PM
Have an 06 Sprinter with 70K. Fan speed resistor went bad! I actually took the resistor apart to see what may have caused the problem.

:hmmm: Interesting. Any idea on the number of resistors, values, and wattages? Maybe I'll check on mine.

In the same month my auxiliary heater also does not work.
My radio sometimes stays on after the key is removed, killing my battery if not used for a couple of days.
So far, I am distressed by the surprisingly random electrical gremlins I am encountering on my first Sprinter at such low miles.

Are these common problems?

The resistor sound like a common problem. The aux heater needs to run at least once every month. Kind of like your A/C system. For the radio, it's a common symptom. It would stay on for no particular reason, but I removed it for something else before I figured out why it was doing it.

So far everything works on mine, but I only have 30k miles.

autostaretx
10-31-2008, 03:26 AM
My 2005's radio also stays on (but rarely)... so i have developed the habit of listening/watching to make sure it does go off.

Thanks for the heads-up on the resistor.

good luck
--dick

Aqua Puttana
11-14-2008, 02:26 AM
I just noticed yesterday that my fan didn't seem to work on the two lowest positions. 3 and high seemed fine. Today before shutting down the engine I left the fan in low and popped the hood. I reached in the area of the squirrel cage, felt no air movement and found the fan wasn't turning. Same deal on the next speed up. 3rd speed I could tell by the noise the fan was spinning. Needless to say I'm going to replace the resistor assembly.

I wish I still had access to all those Ohmite wire wound power resistors we never used after solid state became entrenched. I could probably patch a few in and have them last forever.

I guess the info here is that for me the lower two speeds failed first. If you notice the lower speeds of your fan not working it's a warning. It's most likely time for a new fan resistor pack. Hope this helps.
Greetings,

Have an 06 Sprinter with 70K. Fan speed resistor went bad! I actually took the resistor apart to see what may have caused the problem. Seems that even though it is covered in a hard ceramic material, it develops cracks allowing for moisture to migrate down to the resistance wire wrapped on the substrate. This causes the internal resistance wire to degrade, get brittle and eventually fracture. The amount of corrosion on the actual wire inside was astonishing under the microscope. My resistor did not actually burn out, it just broke internally. I can say that this does seem like a design flaw. It should be re-designed to be much much more reliable. I think I'll build my own resistor that will work for the life of the vehicle. Because @ approx. 70K lifespan and a million+ miles of projected use of my van, I'll have to spend about $500 to keep the fan running on MB resistors over the lifetime. Seems very unreasonable to me.

Any other vehicle I have owned, I have never had a resistor break down so soon! Love the Toyota....

In the same month my auxiliary heater also does not work.
My radio sometimes stays on after the key is removed, killing my battery if not used for a couple of days.
So far, I am distressed by the surprisingly random electrical gremlins I am encountering on my first Sprinter at such low miles.

Are these common problems?

Luckwoodhaveit

Aqua Puttana
11-14-2008, 08:56 PM
I just got my 5133432-AA Resistor 8035022 for about $35.00.

After reviewing the outline above by gggGary from Wisconsin I went out to change the part. Found the wires and all as he said. I was having a deuce of a time getting my fat fingers in to release the plug when the unit suddenly shifted to my left and became loose. I carefully pulled the still connected resistor assembly out of position and out into the open. There was enough wire that I could now get my fat fingers on the connector and release it no problem. I installed the connector on the resistor assembly, pushed the wires back a bit, put the resistor back into place and then shoved it over to my right to lock it into place. All done in about 5 minutes. I now have fan speeds.

My failed resistor unit shows many cracks in the ceramic. I suspect it has corroded wires similar to the one that was dissected in the previous reply. For as easy as it is to change out I'll not be bothering to do much investigating. Hope this helps. vic

leroy
06-03-2009, 11:48 PM
Did anyone actually build a blower motor resistor? I have a core that I was thinking of using to fabricate one. Just curious if anyone has tried it.

gggGary
10-08-2010, 03:20 AM
Second resister pack failure today maybe 30,000 miles on the last one. Dodge wants $41.00 now. So I figured I better check the motor. to see if it is causing the resisters to burn out. As others stated getting the blower out is easy, 3 Phillips sheet metal screws and the wiring plug and it's out. the bearings (bushings?) were stiff so I used spray white lithium grease on em and worked it in. To get at the bottom bearing I had to seperate the motor and wheel from the housing, there are three rubber bushings around the perimeter. A port on each one allows you to push a rubber tab inward while pushing it up so the motor starts to rise out of the housing as you work your way around. I used a little lube to slide it back together. My brushes were OK yet at 85,000 miles.

26892

26889

26890

26891

white whale
12-29-2010, 02:28 AM
same problems here - used the forum to get me back in 1-2-3 heat modes again.
Module was $70 - all in cost CDN$ :yell: - Europarts does not have for 2006.
Area is tight - small screwdriver is only tool required. Here are the pics of the old part.
Cracks as described in the forum are the culprit.

sssprinters
02-21-2011, 10:28 PM
I just got my 5133432-AA Resistor 8035022 for about $35.00.

After reviewing the outline above by gggGary from Wisconsin I went out to change the part. Found the wires and all as he said. I was having a deuce of a time getting my fat fingers in to release the plug when the unit suddenly shifted to my left and became loose. I carefully pulled the still connected resistor assembly out of position and out into the open. There was enough wire that I could now get my fat fingers on the connector and release it no problem. I installed the connector on the resistor assembly, pushed the wires back a bit, put the resistor back into place and then shoved it over to my right to lock it into place. All done in about 5 minutes. I now have fan speeds.

My failed resistor unit shows many cracks in the ceramic. I suspect it has corroded wires similar to the one that was dissected in the previous reply. For as easy as it is to change out I'll not be bothering to do much investigating. Hope this helps. vic

hey vic,
let me know your source info for this resistor, i need one.
thx,
jim

gggGary
02-21-2011, 10:36 PM
hey vic,
let me know your source info for this resistor, i need one.
thx,
jim

My Dodge dealer got me one in two days about $42.00

sssprinters
02-21-2011, 10:41 PM
i don't have any dealers where i am at,
what is your dealers website address? or other parts websites that have this part?
also need part numbers info,
thx,
jim

gggGary
02-21-2011, 10:59 PM
5133432-AA Resistor 8035022

Any Dodge, Mercedes, or Freightliner dealer should be able to order it and get it quick.

william@TechServSys.com
11-14-2013, 03:51 PM
>I was having a deuce of a time getting my fat fingers in to release the plug when the unit suddenly shifted to my left and became loose.

The "trick" to getting the resistor pack loose is to pry the right edge to the left. There is a tab sticking up on the right that does nothing I could see, but it bent to the left just before the pack shifted left and loose. If you look carefully you can see that there is a small indent on the bottom of the pack that engages a small tab. Prying left bends the pack up just enough to let it slide left.

white whale
01-01-2014, 03:46 AM
Just had déjà view all over again...... High down to a low rumble from the jet engine noise it was at. Almost nothing at 1 2 3.
I came across my old post. So I've had nearly 3 yrs out of the oem part from the dealer- if the same thing has occurred. But I will try the fuse fix first. Nice to see an eBay option for $20 this time now.

white whale
01-02-2014, 10:03 PM
:yell: fooled. First check should have been under the hood. Cover had popped off, filter was sitting out on top of engine. Mother:yell:. Had just opened hood to fill wash tank so assumed the worst. Placing the filter and putting that cover back on is an ugly job, what a nasty spot. Have fuse ready for next time.

justjake
01-19-2014, 06:05 PM
The heater on my '05 low & short 95kmi seams to only blow heat (or a/c cool) when the truck is moving. The fan blows four speeds 1-2-3-4, but sitting still it just circulates air. That wouldn't be the resistor anymore would it? Help?

sailquik
01-19-2014, 06:37 PM
justjake,
Are you sure that you don't have it set on "recirculate"?
When you hit the recirculate button, do you hear the shutter/duct door closing?
Does the blower speed selector actually change the blower speed? (If not, you probably need a new blower resistor module).
Do you hear the blower spinning up (increasing as you select the higher blower speeds)?
Hope this helps,
Roger

justjake
01-19-2014, 07:01 PM
no, I don't believe it's on recirculate (same as max a/c?) the button's not pushed in & the light's off although I can't / haven't heard any door operate. The blower operates just fine, 1-4 each blows harder than the last. so the resistor is not the culprit. Is there another blower that feeds heat to the main blower? or a baffle door that opens at 30mph that wouldn't move at standstill? would it be the heat exchanger? that doesn't explain the a/c. It would be nice to warm or cool the truck before we start moving.

sailquik
01-19-2014, 07:28 PM
Cooling the truck should not be an issue. When you turn the AC on and the blower up and open the top of the dash vents, you will get cold...lots of it.
Heating is a bit different.
The engine needs to get up to ~=> 140 degrees before you will get much heat from the system.
Another thing to check, does the temperature knob turn very freely and beyond the marked graduations?
Might be that the valve that feeds/shuts off the hot coolant flow to the heater core is bad and no hot coolant is
getting to the heater core.
In any event you will not have max. heat until you drive far enough to get the engine up to the full 180 deg. coolant thermostat
temp where the thermostat opens and hot coolant circulates all through the system.
Recirculate is not the same as max. AC. There is a small vacuum power door/flap in the interior air duct (before the heater core I think,
and when you shut that door (by pushing the recirculate button) you will hear the door go "thump" as it closes, but it will only stay closed for around 30 minutes.
Then it automatically opens back up and you get fresh outside (cold) air.
The reason it opens is so that you don't get too much moisture inside the cab area and fog up the inside of the windows.
So, look at the operation of the coolant to heater flow control valve and check that you have a good vaccum on the vacuum operated
recirculation flap/door.
Also check that you have the dash vents open and the top of the dash regulator vents closed (in winter) as only cold air comes out the top of the dash vents. It's good for AC in the summer to have them fully open.
Make sure that you don't have the directional vent flow control set to defrost as that puts all the available airflow at the bottom of the windshield. Also check that you don't have the directional vent flow control valve putting all the airflow down toward your feet.
Hope this helps,
Roger

justjake
01-19-2014, 09:13 PM
Cooling the truck should not be an issue. When you turn the AC on and the blower up and open the top of the dash vents, you will get cold...lots of it.
Heating is a bit different.
The engine needs to get up to ~=> 140 degrees before you will get much heat from the system.it does 140* if not more
Another thing to check, does the temperature knob turn very freely and beyond the marked graduations?yes temp moves freely but the other vent selector knob is stiff
Might be that the valve that feeds/shuts off the hot coolant flow to the heater core is bad and no hot coolant is getting to the heater core.
In any event you will not have max. heat until you drive far enough to get the engine up to the full 180 deg. coolant thermostat temp where the thermostat opens and hot coolant circulates all through the system. would it shut at a stoplight? the temp drops even after 60 mi freeway drive where the cabin gets quite warm but then first stop the temperature drops off completely
Recirculate is not the same as max. AC. There is a small vacuum power door/flap in the interior air duct (before the heater core I think,
and when you shut that door (by pushing the recirculate button) you will hear the door go "thump" as it closes, but it will only stay closed for around 30 minutes. well then no it's not on recirculate, that's what I was calling and using as max a/c
Then it automatically opens back up and you get fresh outside (cold) air.
The reason it opens is so that you don't get too much moisture inside the cab area and fog up the inside of the windows.
So, look at the operation of the coolant to heater flow control valve and check that you have a good vaccum on the vacuum operated
recirculation flap/door.this may be my problem, I may have good vacuum under throttle but not at idle
Also check that you have the dash vents open and the top of the dash regulator vents closed (in winter) as only cold air comes out the top of the dash vents. thought this was part of my problem cold air was overpowering any heat coming outIt's good for AC in the summer to have them fully open.
Make sure that you don't have the directional vent flow control set to defrost as that puts all the available airflow at the bottom of the windshield. Also check that you don't have the directional vent flow control valve putting all the airflow down toward your feet.
Hope this helps,
Roger

Yes it did thanks

Aqua Puttana
01-19-2014, 10:06 PM
Has anyone suggested checking the cabin filter yet? If the cabin filter is not serviced it can plug up to the point that you don't get air no matter how the fan sounds. It is located under the hood. Basically centered above the engine as part of the HVAC fan/duct assembly. It may even be shown in the operator manual.

vic

gggGary
03-12-2015, 03:14 PM
The Heater fan resistor module is now available from auto stores, about $36 at the store I stopped at. I was in a hurry so had to pay $56 for next day delivery at the dealer, when I called to order it from that dealer an hour later a different parts person quoted $68 for the SAME FREAKIN' part. Lucky I had a business card with the part # and price........

5133432-AA Resistor 8035022

The one I took out was bad, high speed only, but showed no signs of failure on the outside.

pinzgauer
12-12-2017, 05:51 PM
Gone through two resistor modules in 10 years (06 T1N). Used dealer replacements both times. One at 30k and again at 180k

Anyone gamble with the much cheaper third party replacements? I'm seeing as cheap as $17 and several $25-26.

If the factory parts were lasting longer I'd just pay the $45-55 and be done.

Will try to lube my fan motor this time around.

gggGary
12-12-2017, 09:07 PM
Think I bought a dorman a couple years ago (resister block #4 ??) was still in the van, working when I sold it.

bobmac
11-29-2018, 08:07 PM
The resistor unit on my 2003 Freightliner failed this past autumn. the resistors were fine but a temp sensitive 'fuse' element failed. My friend had a couple of very similar values in his 'junk' box so a quick and cheap replacement. The part number and temperature is on the component. I wrote it down to share, but it got thrown out with the bath water.

Function is to prevent over heating if, for instance, the filter is plugged and there is not sufficient air flow to cool the resistors. 'High' speed does not use the resistors so the temperature fuse failure allows high speed fan operation. A resistor failure would have the same affect.

The resistor block is easily removed by removing the downstream duct just past the resistor element.
Bob in Brisbane with a long and tall ex-ambo RV to sell here. MWB 4x4 is a keeper.
Faulty resistor element in a long and tall 2003 in New England