I think those integers refer to yahoo sprintervan news group postings/emails.
I could be wrong, though....
-Jon
This is Yahoo Sprinter Van Group post 15104 -
Andy Bittenbinder wrote at Wed Feb 16, 2005 11:22 am
Here is a direct link to the aux. battery retrofit-
www.dodgesprinter.com/dos/AUXBATTINSTALL.pdf I'd like to comment on
the retrofit. The OEM aux. battery installation is wisely designed for
a worst case scenario of HIGH amperage consumption while driving. An
example of this would be a 2000 watt inverter, in use at full capacity
with engine running. The OEM installation uses awg 4 gauge cable and a
rather expensive( $214, part# 05133946AA) isolation relay capable of
switching very high amperage. If you're custom designing a light duty
camper and plan on using the aux. battery for lamps,heater blower etc.
and have no plans for high amperage devices being used while engine is
running (or driving) you can economise and design your own system
using a lower amerage aftermarket isolation relay and awg 8 gauge wire
to limit charging amperage to less than 80amps. Protect it with an 80
amp fuse link between battery and relay. Andy
-- In
sprintervan@yahoogroups.com, "swardcanoe" <swardcanoe@n...> wrote:
>
> Folks,
>
> I just finished searching all the pdf files and ect on
>
>
http://dodgesprinter.com
>
> They have added a lot since the last time I looked besides the new
> Geico videos. For instance the list of retro-fit options under OPTIONS
> and ACESSORIES now includes front aux heater, front aux battery and
> some new windows.
>
> Under Specifications, and then Technical they now have a new Fluid and
> Lube pdf file.
>
> Under Options & Acessories, then Photo Gallery and finally under
> Custom Solutions they show the Visor Shelf that is sold in Germany. I
> wonder if this means we will be able to get it sometime.
>
> Then under Maintence they have a pdf file on adjusting the doors.
>
> Looks like DC/DODGE is getting more useful information available for us.
>
> Suzanne
This is post 15119
Andy Bittenbinder wrote at Wed Feb 16, 2005 5:26 pm
Aux. battery isolation relay
Oooga, First- I wish you guys would use your real names. Second I
respectfully disagree with your posting. A "totally discharged"
battery is still testing at over 0 volts. When connected in parallel
a fully discharged (condition: serviceable, NO shorted cells)
battery's voltage will quickly rise and your fully charged battery's
voltage will quickly fall. This and the inherent wiring resistance(awg
size and lenght) AND the batterys internal resistance, WILL REDUCE THE
MAX CURRENT during transfer. I'm estimating less than 50-80 Amps. And
don't forget the relay is not triggered by the ign. switch, rather the
D+ alternator output(engine running). High current WILL flow thru an
isolation relay if you intentionally installed a bypass switch to
allow the aux. battery to aid in vehicle starting(primary battery
discharged). in which case you need to size wiring and relay for 100's
of amps. I have no objections to a electronic isolation device. They
are very useful if you did not have easy access to that D+ alternator
signal for relay triggering. Andy
--- In
sprintervan@yahoogroups.com, "ooogaaboooga" <ooogaaboooga@y...>
wrote:
>
> I don't like the use of a relay in a battery isolation circuit.
>
> Here's why:
>
> If the aux battery is fully dicharged, it will appear as a dead short
> to the starting battery when that isolation relay closes.
>
> A dead short carrying several hundred amps! except for the fuse that
> the Dodge engineers wisely put in to prevent a major electical fire.
>
> I would not bet on the longevity of that $214 relay either, switching
> currents like that. That number 4 cable carries a lot of current,
> and I hope you never see it smoke, then turn red hot!
>
> It is easy to fully discharge an aux battery as any camper will tell
> you. The 12V refrigerator can do it in a few hours.
>
> A much safer solution is the solid state battery isolators that do
> not have any relays or switching. This technique electronically
> isolates the batteries, and prevent the charged starting battery from
> dumping into the dead house battery. The dead house battery charges
> from the alternator, not the good starting battery.
>
> It would be far better to use a good aftermarket electronic isolation
> unit than the stock Dodge brute force relay technique. Get your new
> Sprinter WITHOUT the aux battery option, and have a modern electronic
> isolator installed.
> Best,
> Oooga
