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Jim42
04-15-2013, 02:12 AM
Hello!On regular check few weeks ago I find something,what must to be fixed a.s.a.p.(05,158" with 476k)On pictures I try to show 2 lost nuts on 5th cylinder exhaust manifold.First is rusted out and still there and totters.Another on bottom is lost.When truck is idling,I feel some fumes in a cab.:hmmm:
This is my dilemma.
To fix that, I need take off exhaust manifold before that turbo and exhaust pipe need to be removed too.My exhaust pipes is too rusted and if I will try to do something,it will broke.Need replace them too(another $1600price from dealer)
And big question about studs in cylinder head.Probably,it will be so hard to take them off and install new(may be rebuild head will need).In following,my timing chain clinking so loud and need to be change too.Injectors is 476k old and probably need to be replaced too.When I open oil cap ,I see some smoke coming up and oil sipping from oil seperator under plastic cover,it mean valves seals is going bad.
To fix that will take a lot of time and money.
I find guys in Florida(big business) with rebuild heads ($900-$300 core).I have some parts stored previously.
What you will to do?What is you advise?Truck runs great,but starting to bring a lot small troubleshootings.
May be is better to buy new truck to solve that problems?:lol:

NelsonSprinter
04-15-2013, 02:43 AM
I would look at a newer truck with those set of problems and wear issues, but if you're into having the engine rebuilt or replaced, I'd ask Dr. A or Waynerod what they say. Where are you located?

lindenengineering
04-15-2013, 05:48 AM
Well
In this business there is often a saying that remove the fuel cap from what you have , drive a new vehicle up without faults sans cap, and fit the cap and you have fixed the problem!:thumbup:

But seriously faced with that bolting/stud issue I would use a nut splitter to remove the nut(s). drill out the busted stud. (if the tools I have won't budge the broken stub bit)
Then remove the manifold and either remove the studs or cut/chase new threads on the existing studs, refit the manifold with new gaskets/nuts etc , torque it all up then fire it up and drive it like you stole it!
(Frankly It looks JUST like a LandRover problem--nothing new! Please don't be offended :laughing:
Problem easily solved
Dennis.

Aqua Puttana
04-15-2013, 01:02 PM
My "temporary" 1/4-20 replacement stud is working just fine. I inspect it whenever I need to remove the heat shield for any reason. YMMV. vic

http://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?p=161657#post161657

Boater
04-16-2013, 01:01 AM
The manifold nuts are probably copper (they were on my OM602 engine), they can seize up good but I found a nut splitter to be of limited use, copper nuts don't really split - they just mash! I ended up using a junior hacksaw and cold chisel as I recall. The only ones I had any real trouble with were the 3 for the turbo (it was one of them I tried to split), the ones to the head all undid in some way - either the nuts came off or the studs screwed out. The studs that stayed in the head came out using my stud extractors (tool that slots over and grips with a camming action) with little trouble. I bought new studs and nuts from MB, can't remember the prices now, the studs were inexpensive but the nuts are 2 or 3 each (which adds up over 5 cylinders).

Watch out for the sizes - they are not standard metric spanner (wrench) sizes, maybe 12mm or 11mm? If you let the spanner/socket slip the soft nuts will round.

Even with the exhaust and turbo off some of those studs are hard to get to - I left mine until I had the head off, which was the job I was doing when I spotted some missing ones. Good luck!

lindenengineering
04-16-2013, 02:35 AM
Boater
The nuts are bronze metal--they will split with a nut splitter believe me!
Dennis

Boater
04-16-2013, 12:32 PM
Dennis - I remember now, the exhaust and turbo nuts are different, the exhaust are bronze as you say, it was a copper turbo nut I mashed with the nut splitter. They look similar when old and dirty but are not the same size, or material!