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View Full Version : Rust proofing van, worth it on a 2006?


chads
03-18-2013, 01:45 AM
I recently bought a 2006 140 and it is in relativily nice shape comming from Texas.
No rust to speak of and when I craw under there I see no rust maybe a dot here or there.
I have some surface rust on the stone chips etc.

I also have a windshield leak and rust on the lower seal that needs repaired soon.
I guess the windshield was just replaced but poorly the way it looks.
I could use some leads here also.
I am thinking of running it this summer then if it pans out as a good vehicle I need to think of rust proofing it.
What does it run to get one of these undercoated?
Has anyone tried it themself?
What or who is the best one to use?
I tried the spray cans of black undercoating on a new astro once but it just chipped off around the tires I guess from stones etc.
My Uncle thinks I should get the ext paint glaze done too. Given the weak paint I wonder if this may be money well spent.

I currently have 218k on it and hope to run it for 5-10 years god permitting.
I plan to run 10-15k a year so not really high use but we are in the semi-salt belt of mid Ohio.
Not as bad as northern Ohio but still we get enough.
What do you think?
Chad

flman
03-18-2013, 11:05 AM
I think a new paint job and clear coat would be a good idea, and have them rust proof the seams at the bottom of the 5 doors, or 6 if you do not have the slider. Maybe pull the windshield for the painting as well.

My 05 has rusted mainly on the surface due to poor paint, and the seams at the bottoms of the doors where condensation will collect.

hulagun
03-18-2013, 11:45 AM
Ditto what flman said. Check under the door well plates and clean out the moisture drains. There are spray waxy rustproofing coatings you can apply yourself that may work as good as the black gooey ones without the mess but will need reapplied annually. They have the benefit of not trapping moisture under them and don't get in the way of repairs. The black gooey undercoating may help attenuate road noise.

Aqua Puttana
03-18-2013, 01:39 PM
Ditto what flman said. Check under the door well plates and clean out the moisture drains. There are spray waxy rustproofing coatings you can apply yourself that may work as good as the black gooey ones without the mess but will need reapplied annually. They have the benefit of not trapping moisture under them and don't get in the way of repairs. The black gooey undercoating may help attenuate road noise.
I agree FWIW.

To the best of my knowledge my 2004 has spent its entire life in Western New York. Road salt is king here. I've quipped that with as much salt as they spread around to run into the waterways we'll soon have sharks living and breeding in the Niagara River.

As badly as my Sprinter Arctic White-wash paint has deteriorated (rumor is that lazy Tom Sawyer was involved in the painting), the undersides of my van still look good. I'd go with the waxy DIY for underneath and spend the real money on the topsides. The topsides will likely be your issue as time marches on. Good luck. vic

Boater
03-18-2013, 07:15 PM
My 1996 underseal is sound, only rust underneath is from inside out where holes above have let water get into sealed areas.
Having rebuilt some extensively rusted out sill areas (held together by the underseal in some places) I yesterday got round to applying shutz over the out of sight parts of the new sills.
Warmed the can in a sink full of hot water first, set regulater to about 85psi on my compressor, fitted the gun to the tin and crawled half under. It's kind of high volume delivery, it took me longer to keep re-positioning myself than it did to apply it to the sills. 5 minutes after I started I had the pickup tube in a jar of thinners which I blasted through to clean the gun (followed up with partial dismantle and wipe down as necessary - blockages can cause pressure rise which can burst the cans).

In terms of doing the whole underside, you will spend longer removing and/or masking components you don't want undersealed than you will applying it. For wheel arches you might want to look at stonechip instead of shutz, it can be overpainted normally (body colour if you want) and is more chip resistant. I will try and have a look under in a bit and make sure it dried OK and didn't react with existing underseal where I overpainted.

Plan is to spray the sill voids with Dinitrol wax, I think the product I ended up going for is ML, although there are numbered products that do similar jobs, the ML seems to be best for when there might be old rust left (or I got mixed up and ordered the wrong stuff!). Probably not tonight though, it's freezing and we had some flurries of snow earlier. Got to go, need to get my horn working before the snow comes back properly!

Boater
03-18-2013, 11:40 PM
I will try and have a look under in a bit and make sure it dried OK and didn't react with existing underseal where I overpainted.

Shutz looks perfect despite warming it up and then spraying on cold metal

chads
03-19-2013, 12:44 AM
So all the rust I see out there is generally from the surface rust getting worse.
What about having it clearcoated?
I have never done this but see enough of it pealing off repaired cars.
Is clearcoat hard to apply in the shop setting?
Chad

flman
03-19-2013, 11:19 AM
So all the rust I see out there is generally from the surface rust getting worse.
What about having it clearcoated?
I have never done this but see enough of it pealing off repaired cars.
Is clearcoat hard to apply in the shop setting?
Chad

Chad, I wish I only had to deal with pealing clearcoat vs ugly rust eating away at my van.

You might just skip the CC and get it repainted with a good quality paint?

Bigdaddydaveh
03-19-2013, 02:48 PM
I have some tiny rust stains appearing on the upper surfaces of our 2004. I'm totally tempted to spot treat them (sand down to bare metal, rust converter, new primer, touch up painting,) and following with roll on truck bed liner from the windows down. I've seen this on off road vehicles and trucks and there are brands available in white. Anyone ever try this?

flman
03-19-2013, 03:09 PM
I have some tiny rust stains appearing on the upper surfaces of our 2004. I'm totally tempted to spot treat them (sand down to bare metal, rust converter, new primer, touch up painting,) and following with roll on truck bed liner from the windows down. I've seen this on off road vehicles and trucks and there are brands available in white. Anyone ever try this?

I was going to ask myself if any one has used a marine paint, epoxy or something similar to embalm the rust? I have painted over mine a bunch of times, and it always comes back after a winter of road salt.

NelsonSprinter
03-20-2013, 04:16 PM
I would touch the dots underneath with a bit of Vaseline petroleum jelly, it keeps water away for years and costs 1/100 of a undercoat, the original is a good job. Wax/ polish the paint and stop the rust spots with a Dremel , prime and fill and touch-up paint every 2 years. I recently bought a 2006 140 and it is in relativily nice shape comming from Texas.
No rust to speak of and when I craw under there I see no rust maybe a dot here or there.
I have some surface rust on the stone chips etc.

I am thinking of running it this summer then if it pans out as a good vehicle I need to think of rust proofing it.
What does it run to get one of these undercoated?
Has anyone tried it themself?
What or who is the best one to use?

My Uncle thinks I should get the ext paint glaze done too. Given the weak paint I wonder if this may be money well spent.

What do you think?
Chad

Coast2Coast
03-24-2013, 03:58 PM
When I get out of a area with road salt in the winter, I hand wash my van and spray it down for a solid 5 min at the DIY carwash.