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tylaus
03-08-2013, 03:59 AM
I have tried to find how to remove the front caliper without a specialty tool, does anyone have any thoughts. Not much space to get a flat screwdriver in between rotor and brake pad to try to compress the dual piston enough to get pads off. I have a 2005 dodge sprinter 3500 with a 2.7. Thank you for any thoughts.

Eric Experience
03-08-2013, 10:30 AM
Tylaus.
I have never seen a dual caliper on an 05. Most have single piston sliders. With the sliders you just use a lever against the disc to move the slider away from the disc. Eric.

cahaak
03-08-2013, 01:39 PM
Just slip a pry bar in there and push it back. Any basic thin pry bar - not a crow bar works well.

Chris

Aqua Puttana
03-08-2013, 01:56 PM
I never pry against the brake pad/rotor proper. I use a large screwdriver inserted into gap of the caliper stationary frame and the sliding part. I generally move the top a bit and then go to the bottom. That method doesn't risk damage to the pads or rotor should you want to reuse them. :idunno: vic

surlyoldbill
03-08-2013, 02:17 PM
I'll second the above advices. Don't damage the rotor.
I pry back one cylinder a little, then the other, enough to remove caliper from rotor, and then I use an odd shaped C-clamp (two heads) that I have to retract both cylinders all the way so I can install pads. You can also use a board or something and a regular C-clamp.
It doesn't take much prying to loosen the caliper enough to jiggle it off the rotor.

Aqua Puttana
03-08-2013, 02:41 PM
I'll second the above advices. Don't damage the rotor.
I pry back one cylinder a little, then the other, enough to remove caliper from rotor, and then I use an odd shaped C-clamp (two heads) that I have to retract both cylinders all the way so I can install pads. You can also use a board or something and a regular C-clamp.
It doesn't take much prying to loosen the caliper enough to jiggle it off the rotor.
Good description. I also go back and forth top and bottom. I didn't make that clear.

For newbies, don't ever pop off both sides calipers and then compress the pucks on just one side in. It is possible for the compression pressure to transfer to the pucks on the opposite side, over extend them (pop them out), and screw up the seals. I either put a just touching clamp on the removed opposite side, or do only one side at a time so the opposite side puck(s) bump the rotor.

The problem may not be true for all manufacturers, but I haven't felt the need to test it on any brakes that I've done.

FWIW. vic