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View Full Version : Sliding door rattle help please


sliver
03-05-2013, 04:44 AM
Our '08 144 passenger has a sliding door rattle that seems to come from the back edge, though I'm not completely sure about that being the origin yet. I need to have my wife drive the van while I get up close and personal with the door - maybe then I can narrow it down. Unfortunately I'm not driving it for the next day or so 'til I change the oil. We bought it with 11,500 miles on it and the dealer had just changed the oil. I asked for the receipts and brand/type oil since the van has some engine warranty left, and - of course they didn't use a 229.51 oil. I'm getting off the subject, but anyway I wanted to gather some info on this rattle thing, since I can't do much else for the moment.

I researched the postings but didn't find a whole lot on the sliding door rattle, at least for NCV3's. The most successful fix seemed to be lubricating the point/socket hardware on the front edge. In my case though, the rattle appears to come from the rear and it isn't a metal on rubber sound, it's more of a loose metallic "jiggle". It happens with the slightest, normal irregularities in the road, like there's movement of the door and it's working the roller hardware in/out or up/down. It's really annoying, especially because the vehicle seems so quiet otherwise. I'd love to hear from someone who may have dealt with a rattling door like this, or who has a NCV3 slider adjustment procedure.

drod0813
03-05-2013, 01:27 PM
I have an 07 that had the same problem. My rattle was coming from the upper rear corner of the sliding door. After trouble shooting, I found a rubber "bumper" in the upper corner. You have to be standing inside the truck and have the sliding door almost closed to find it. The "bumper" can be adjusted by twisting in or out, it is threaded like a screw. Spin it counter clock wise as necessary. It may take a few attempts. Hope this helps. I know how annoying that rattle can be.

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WPJ
03-05-2013, 03:08 PM
I have a new 2013 and i have the same issue, the damn sliding door if you don’t slam it it rattles with anything, hell if you yawn to loud it would rattle, but if you slam it just right it is silent as all get out.....bloody MB Canada, and BM USA why on this green earth would they not allow at lease the electric close assist. I will forever closing the door like a bloody chauffeur for years as my kids nor wife will get it just right.....oh well...

I will try your trick

Walter Clark
03-05-2013, 08:08 PM
Mine rattles now and again so I just looked at and adjusted mine. I turned it out 1/2 turn at a time and closed the door. Past about 1-1.5 revolutions the door became significantly harder to close - where the back would not latch unless really slammed. I moved it back in to about 1 revolution further out than I found it so it is just below where it suddenly gets hard to close. While doing this I watched how the door edge lined up at the surface to the body. It will move the top out at some point but not as much as it would seem when adjusting the stop out. Its probably not a good thing to load it up too much since that would shorten its life.

Based on that I would say the is a fairly narrow range of "just right", where it stabilizes the door and doesnt push on it so hard the door is difficult to close.

bobojay
03-05-2013, 08:15 PM
Is the rubber bumper on the door or the body?

drod0813
03-05-2013, 08:22 PM
If I recall correctly it is on the door. I'll post some pics as soon as I get home from work today.

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icarus
03-05-2013, 08:49 PM
Open the door a bit, and look at the relationship between the strike on the door, and the latch on the post. Very often the door is badly out of adjustment. Essentially you can raise (or lower) the door with (iirc) a 8 mm box wrench, jacking the door up or down so that the door properly centers the latch and the strike.

Once it is propery adjusted, the door should close and latch with just a gentle shove.

Icarus

Walter Clark
03-05-2013, 09:08 PM
Is the rubber bumper on the door or the body?

Yes, it is on the door. Top rear. As mentioned its helpful to have the door almost to the closed position (just before it moves in toward the door jamb) to see it. Mine could be turned by my fingers without difficulty.

bobojay
03-05-2013, 09:44 PM
"Just in case info" as we won't be picking up our new NCV3 until about April 4th...

kjgatc
03-05-2013, 09:49 PM
I have looked for an earlier post I used to adjust and limit the rattling of the sliding door, however, I could not locate it. If you stand inside your van with the door closed push out at the upper rear corner, if it moves or replicates the rattle the problem is in the door latching mechanism in that upper rear corner. With the sliding door fully open you will find a short post on the frame of the vehicle body in the same upper area. It is adjustable and can be moved inward/outward/up or down on an angle to provide a better latching. Before you begin mark the current location of the post by outlining with a pencil. Loosen the surrounding bolt (13mm, I think) and slightly adjust. I would take a pic but I'm in Chicago with another blizzard happening!

surlyoldbill
03-05-2013, 10:09 PM
Have you seen this?
http://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=13872&highlight=sliding+door+rattle
I don't know if the NCV3 doors are of the same construction as the T1N.

sliver
03-06-2013, 12:05 AM
I have an 07 that had the same problem. My rattle was coming from the upper rear corner of the sliding door. After trouble shooting, I found a rubber "bumper" in the upper corner. You have to be standing inside the truck and have the sliding door almost closed to find it. The "bumper" can be adjusted by twisting in or out, it is threaded like a screw. Spin it counter clock wise as necessary. It may take a few attempts. Hope this helps. I know how annoying that rattle can be.


Drod, that was a very worthwhile post, thanks for taking the time to share your insight! You don't post much according to your profile, but when you did it was a good one. When I got home from work today I took the Sprinter for a short trip to warm the oil (needs changing), and before I left I turned that screw bumper out about a turn-and-a-half. It decreased the rattle somewhat, so I stopped and gave it another turn-and-a-half, and then - no more noise! Great call. I felt a little sheepish that I missed that thing, I'm usually more observant.

For anyone else looking to dampen that sliding door rattle, the bumper looks very much like the ones many cars have for adjusting hood height. After adjusting mine there was no appreciable change in how flush the upper rear corner of the door was, the bumper was just turned in too much and needed to come out to take up the slack. So easy, but such a relief!

Thanks again to drod and everyone else that put in their two cents. :thumbup:

sliver
03-06-2013, 12:16 AM
Have you seen this?
http://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=13872&highlight=sliding+door+rattle
I don't know if the NCV3 doors are of the same construction as the T1N.

SurlyBill, I did see that. I was planning to look inside the door if I couldn't find the cause within the latch/roller hardware. Fortunately though, the answer for once was just "screw it". :smirk:

Albert
05-14-2014, 12:43 PM
Hello all, first time poster...
I was convinced my sliding door on my 2012 2500 was rattling and banging around after every time I drove over an imperfection in the road. After reading these threads I would bet it was that sliding door. Turns out that it is the rear most seat that is the culprit. The rear latch points are metal on metal and have enough wiggle room that when hitting a bump in the road it makes a horrendous racket. This is easy to trouble shoot, have a couple of friends sit in the back seat and take her for a drive. The added weight should quiet the seat. I am going to add some arc proofing electrical tape around the metal latch rods and see if this quiets my rattle trap. Perhaps your sliding door is playing tricks on you too?

Albert
05-17-2014, 01:20 PM
The cushioning of the arc proofing tape worked wonders. She is very quiet now. In order to remove the rear seat I Had to custom fabricate a tool to lift the levers. Unlike the second and third row seats, the fourth row does not come with the latch removal lever lifters. I cut a piece of ply wood 2" x 8". At one end I inserted two finish nails spaced one inch apart, with the heads of the nails protruding 3/8". You will need two of these to lift the two latches simultaneously and pull the seat in the rearward direction while lifting the latches. Maybe this direction isn't obvious- inspect how the other seat latches operate to give you an idea of how these lever lifters will work. You will slide the heads of the two finish nails into the holes on the latch, and lift, releasing the locking mechanism that holds the seat to the metal rod in the floor.

If you cannot find 3m arc proofing tape, you might want to try a piece of 1/2"d ABS pipe (sprinkler pipe). It might actually hold up better. Cut an 1-1/2" long piece and slice the pipe lengthwise to slip over the metal rod in the seat track.