Need Help Installing New Injector Hold Down Bolt

Okay, I have read almost all of the threads about "BLACK DEATH". I removed the #1 injector without any problem. The hold down bolt came out smoothly. I installed the injector with the new seal, but the hold down bolt is trying to lock up after just a few turns. Two threads actually came out with the bolt. I'm sure I need to run a tap. What is the best way to run the tap? Back in the old days, we would put some grease on the tap to catch the loose material. How should I proceed? Thanks!

I would check some of the other posts on this.
There are plenty of write ups about it.
I am almost sure you need a new bolt for it.
It is really important to get the gunk out of the threads and the hole so you can get it started right.
I am sure one of the better educated ones will chime in here.
Chad

you need a new bolt for sure. From what I understand you can use the old bolt as your tap by cutting grooves in it. Lots of write ups about this but digging thru all that info gets frustrating.

skill3 said:

Okay, I have read almost all of the threads about "BLACK DEATH". I removed the #1 injector without any problem. The hold down bolt came out smoothly. I installed the injector with the new seal, but the hold down bolt is trying to lock up after just a few turns. Two threads actually came out with the bolt. I'm sure I need to run a tap. What is the best way to run the tap? Back in the old days, we would put some grease on the tap to catch the loose material. How should I proceed? Thanks!

Click to expand...

Chasing the threads to remove debris which can bind the bolt is extremely critical. Were I you I would use a bench grinder or some other method to cut a couple slots in the removed original bolt. That bolt can then be used to clean the threaded bore of your hold down by using multiple in and outs and cleaning off the scrap. Also use a long blow gun tip between uses.

I wish I could say the relieved OEM bolt modification was my idea, but it isn't. I do think the method is explained somewhere in my injector thread here.

https://sprinter-source.com/forums/showthread.php?t=16068&highlight=injector+remove

Again, were I you I'd be nervous about the picked up aluminum thread material on the bolt, but I would clean the threads and try installation again. Most likely you'll be OK.

It has been suggested that the additional 90 degree turn after torque can be done in two 45 degree turns rather than one go. That may have some benefit in your situation.

Sorry I can't offer more. vic

I am using a new bolt and seal. I'm thinking that since the original bolt is prone to breaking, I should be using a tap. I'm assuming from the replies that the hole has a bottom. Could fuel in the hole create a seal and enough pressure that would cause the bolt to stop threading? I have tried to read all of the threads on "black death", but what I am asking was not mentioned in all that I have read. Thanks!

Finding a tap that will reach is the problem. Making one from a bolt bought at the hardware store, 4-6" long, might be better. What is the hold down bolt, 6x1? 8x1.25? I couldn't reach all the threads with my tap.
You can use a Q-tip damp with oil to pre-clean the threads and pull some of the aluminum bits out before tapping. Air gun is nice, too (wear eye protection and keep injector hole sealed or injector in place).

I ordered the recommended tap today. Bought a inch/pound torque wrench and a long T40 bit. As soon as all arrive, I will take the plunge to finish. Thanks for all of the suggestions.

I got the tap, replacement bolt and seal. My SNAPON digital torque wrench came in. I cleaned everything three times. It all went back together and so far no leaking fuel. Man, that torque wrench is nice. I can't believe it took me 64 years to buy one.

skill3 said:

I got the tap, replacement bolt and seal. My SNAPON digital torque wrench came in. I cleaned everything three times. It all went back together and so far no leaking fuel. Man, that torque wrench is nice. I can't believe it took me 64 years to buy one.

Click to expand...

Tell us about the torque wrench. Model , cost?

It's a Snap-on Tools 1/4" Drive TECHWRENCH Torque Wrench TECH1FR240 24-240 in.lbs. I did a BUY IT NOW for $200 with FREE shipping. It is in like new condition. When you reach the torque that you programmed for, it beeps and the handle vibrates. Isn't progress amazing? That's a far cry from my 45 year old click torque wrench.

Probably like this one

http://www.bing.com/shopping/snap-on-industrial-brand-cdi-torque-1002cf3-drive-computorq-3/p/CC5FDF5E18A17EF25012?q=snap+on+digital+torque+wrench&lpq=snap%20on%20digital%20torque%20wrench&FORM=HURE