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ajakapari
02-08-2013, 03:20 AM
I have a problem wiht my sprinter heater booster for som reason its not working properly , the problem with it is that when i press the button on the dash it starts u can hear the fan spinning and whinning like it does , smoke starts to come out of the exhaust and then stops after like 2min or so.... then the fan stops and then after liek 2-3 min it does the same thing one more time and then after that nothing .. it shuts off i belive and it does not heat the motor or anything i have taken it apart liek 3 times and i dont know what might be the problem .... it seems like its trying to fire up or something like that , but it dosent happen.... or maybe not enough air idk.... if anyone knows or might have a idea PLZ help.!

Amboman
02-08-2013, 03:52 AM
A complex gas turbine engine which will shut down unless all parameters are correct.

Can you hear the fuel pumping?

The water heater pump motor has a high failure rate due to the carbon brushes being too soft and they wear our fast due to insidious and planned obsolescence techniques encouraging you to buy a new one in a short time frame.

Scan tool may be an option.

First poster with complaints (discussion ends).

ajakapari
02-08-2013, 04:05 AM
yes the fuel is pumping i can see it going into the heater booster at 1st, and the water heater pump works.. i have checked it . the fan spins i can hear and smokes comes out. and then the heater booster shuts off.... could it be glow pin?

Boater
02-08-2013, 10:26 AM
That is standard procedure if the heater built in control module detects a fault it will initiate the shut down process in 2 minutes and then automatically make another attempt to start. After 2 attempts it will stop trying.

Have a quick look for espar troubleshooting in google, they have troubleshooting manuals in their download section (look for TS in the file name), your heater should be a D5W or D5WZ if factory fitted, but the behaviour is the same for all.
Can't recall off the top of my head what usually causes the auto shutdown, but I would check the inlet and exhaust pipes are not plugged - snow, mud, stones, rodents...
The manual also lists resistance for things like flame sensor, temp sensor and glow plug (with table for different temps) so you can eliminate them the old fashioned way with a multimeter.
Finally if it is fuel starvation you might need to replace the filter at the pump and/or the screen that protects the glow plug - these are service items. You might also want to replace the burner gasket if you have had it apart that many times already.

If you can't resolve it yourself an espar dealer or service centre should be able to plug it in and read any fault codes off the unit, I think sprinter dealers can do the same with star, but I'm not sure if you can do it with your heater controls, suspect not since you mention push button not 7 day timer.

chads
02-08-2013, 12:55 PM
I would like to follow along here.
I looked at a spec sheet for my 2006 140 low see hz9 heater booster 5kw.
I am not sure I have it.
The guy at the dealer said that was the roof unit,
Im thinking that is a aux. air conditioner but could be wrong. Any way there is nothing on the roof.
Where are they located on the 2006.
I pushed the button on the dash and the light comes on but I don't think it is working.
Anybody have a photo of it?
Chad

talkinghorse43
02-08-2013, 12:59 PM
Anybody have a photo of it?

Look behind the driver's side headlight.

Aqua Puttana
02-08-2013, 01:03 PM
The OEM booster heater has no components mounted on the roof.

Here's some of my comments about the heaters.

http://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?p=80447#post80447

talkinghorse43
02-08-2013, 01:07 PM
I have a problem wiht my sprinter heater booster for som reason its not working properly , the problem with it is that when i press the button on the dash it starts u can hear the fan spinning and whinning like it does , smoke starts to come out of the exhaust and then stops after like 2min or so.... then the fan stops and then after liek 2-3 min it does the same thing one more time and then after that nothing .. it shuts off i belive and it does not heat the motor or anything i have taken it apart liek 3 times and i dont know what might be the problem .... it seems like its trying to fire up or something like that , but it dosent happen.... or maybe not enough air idk.... if anyone knows or might have a idea PLZ help.!

From your description it sounds like the heater is shutting down due to overtemperature. Does it run OK with the engine running (when running, push the bowtie switch below the AC switch and a LED will light up)? If it runs OK with the engine running, then the electric circulating pump is bad. If it doesn't run with the engine on, then you have bigger problems and need to get it scanned at a Freightliner or MB dealer; or at a Thermo king dealer.

ajakapari
02-08-2013, 06:00 PM
it does the same thing with the engine running it starts smokes for a lil bet and then shuts off... also Boater i have checked all the pipes and everything and they are not plugged.. it has to be something inside that is the problem i will check out the troubleshooting manuals u suggested. ill keep trying to figure this out. Thanks ... let me know if u guys think of something else that might be the problem. thanks again.

ajakapari
02-08-2013, 06:11 PM
as i mentioned i took it apart a few times to check it out and i have noticed that when i press the button and starts to smoke i can see smoke coming out of the air/vent pipe(that suppose to suck air in right?) as well as the exhaust pipe.... so idk if thats normal , maybe its not getting air and its shutting off??? idk

autostaretx
02-08-2013, 08:23 PM
see smoke coming out of the air/vent pipe(that suppose to suck air in right?) as well as the exhaust pipe
...which sounds like the fan that blows air through the turbine is not working. See item 2 in this drawing:
50221

...which came from here:
50222

good luck
--dick

talkinghorse43
02-08-2013, 08:37 PM
as i mentioned i took it apart a few times to check it out and i have noticed that when i press the button and starts to smoke i can see smoke coming out of the air/vent pipe(that suppose to suck air in right?) as well as the exhaust pipe.... so idk if thats normal , maybe its not getting air and its shutting off??? idk

Should not get smoke out of the inlet air pipe, so your combustion air blower must not be working as well as it should, or the control unit is bad. The prestart checks the heater goes through should check whether the combustion air blower is working. If not working it should shut down immediately before the dosing pump starts or the glow plug gets hot. In your case, maybe the blower is working enough to pass the prestart check & not well enough to actually ignite the flame (no flame and the unit will shut down). Or, maybe your control unit is bad. My control unit was bad and I replaced it after having its state confirmed by scanning at Espar in Canada.

ajakapari
02-09-2013, 05:22 AM
Thanks for the replies guys ... by the control unit u mean the MOdule correct? if yes i have 2 modules i though it was that before everything i did, so i got another one and have switched them out to see if it fixes the problem , but still does the same thing so i guess i need to go get it checked out at WARNER. see what they say. could it be just the glow plug? or maybe a sensor reading that is overheating and shutting off for som reason?/ ... i have not reset the ECU by taking the battery cable out of the battery for 30 sec... i think it was , maybe i should give it a shot ... and see what happens ... THanks Again.

talkinghorse43
02-09-2013, 01:18 PM
Thanks for the replies guys ... by the control unit u mean the MOdule correct?

I mean part 5 shown in post 11.

could it be just the glow plug?

If the glow plug were bad, then you wouldn't have smoke. And, if it were running as it should (even if eventually kicking out on overtemp), then no smoke would be coming out of the air intake hose. If you have replaced part 5 ($558 for the part at my Freightliner dealer) and it still doesn't work, then could be your combustion air blower is bad.

ajakapari
02-09-2013, 08:23 PM
i will check it and get back to you.

Van Campa
02-09-2013, 09:54 PM
Mine had the glow plug encrusted with soot. Easy to clean when opened. Same symptoms as yours.
I also had water pump faulty. Easy to test by touching by hand and see if it vibrates? I replaced the brushes and cost me only a few dollars.
Third issue was that I had a bad started battery. Worth checking if the battery voltage goes down too much while the heater being used. There is a cutoff point in certain voltage and the heater turns off.
Since cleaning the plug, changing the brushes and replacing the starter battery, I had no further troubles and heater starts every time :thumbup:

chads
02-09-2013, 11:26 PM
I am trying to figure out how you can test this heater booster.
It says that it will turn on if the vehicle is moving over x mph and several other parameters.( I have the 2006 behind the headlight) Is the speed thing once it gets up to temp?
I have been reading Vic's link but not really sure what applies to the 2006 standard unit on a cargo van.
I guess you guys have the 7 day rv type If your looking at it while its running.
I am kinda wondering if the fuel is gelled in there or something.
Is there anything to look for when taking it apart?
I tried the rest button and it seemed to work but I need to test that to be sure water pump is working at least.
I remember a distinct couple of clunks from the floorboard near the top of the transmission while parked.
Could of been the pump trying to get primed.

You may have gelled fuel, it says that the fuel needs cycled out in the fall to get any summer fuel out of there.
Chad

ajakapari
02-09-2013, 11:47 PM
VAN CAMPA my electric coolant pump works yes it vibrates i have checked it , if glow plug encrusted with soot... would the heater booster even start smoking in that case? like mine does? maybe it has something to do with battery i have not checked that yet i will look into it thanks for the suggestion , its weird everything seems to be working , but it shuts off in like 2-3 min. and it starts again after few min and then again it shuts off after 2-3 min. and thats it.

Van Campa
02-10-2013, 12:14 AM
VAN CAMPA my electric coolant pump works yes it vibrates i have checked it , if glow plug encrusted with soot... would the heater booster even start smoking in that case? like mine does? maybe it has something to do with battery i have not checked that yet i will look into it thanks for the suggestion , its weird everything seems to be working , but it shuts off in like 2-3 min. and it starts again after few min and then again it shuts off after 2-3 min. and thats it.

Having been an electronics technician, I have analytic mind and diagnosing problems is second nature to me. Still, I tend to get the more difficult faults in my gadgets:bash:

You can get the manuals from the net for free which should help if you can read electronics circuit diagrams.

7 day timer has got inbuilt diagnostics but it failed to diagnose my faults!

The glow plug should be easy enough to unscrew without pulling the two wires out of the plug. The cable might be twisted? I pulled the whole thing apart and got to the glow plug without removing it but this is too much work and the seals might need to be replaced? the seals are some sort of cardboard and stick into the case and break down when the fuel combustion chamber is opened! I could not find replacement seals so I used the old ones and it has not been a problem luckily.

One way to burn the soot is to use kerosene instead of diesel. This can be done by placing a small cup of kerosene to the intake of dosing pump. You need a small hose to replace the intake hose coming from the fuel tank.
Then crawl under the van and replace this. Burning kerosene for 20 minutes should burn the soot?
I did this but I had the bad battery so it did not run long enough for me.

I also bought another unit from older Sprinter without 7 day timer. This older unit had different number of wires and I did not use it but it helped to diagnose that glow plug. I might make a water heater for outdoor shower out of it?

Van Campa
02-10-2013, 12:37 AM
I am trying to figure out how you can test this heater booster.
It says that it will turn on if the vehicle is moving over x mph and several other parameters.( I have the 2006 behind the headlight) Is the speed thing once it gets up to temp?
I have been reading Vic's link but not really sure what applies to the 2006 standard unit on a cargo van.
I guess you guys have the 7 day rv type If your looking at it while its running.
I am kinda wondering if the fuel is gelled in there or something.
Is there anything to look for when taking it apart?
I tried the rest button and it seemed to work but I need to test that to be sure water pump is working at least.
I remember a distinct couple of clunks from the floorboard near the top of the transmission while parked.
Could of been the pump trying to get primed.

You may have gelled fuel, it says that the fuel needs cycled out in the fall to get any summer fuel out of there.
Chad

The way to test the heater is to eliminate the suspect components individually.
Start with the water pump. Turn the heater on and go to the engine compartment and test that pump vibrates when the heater is started. When the engine is running there is a magnetic clutch letting the motor pump the water. So if the motor is running I think the pump is not working.

Test the dosing fuel pump by removing the incoming hose from the heater unit under the left side headlight. Place a cup under the hose and see if there is fuel coming out when the pump is clicking.

Next thing is to test the glow plug. If you can pull out he plug by unscrewing it and leave it hanging out on its cables supported in such a way that it does not burn any cables. Then you need to inspect if the glow plug turns red while other person operates the heater controls.

Then check the exhaust by removing it and blowing air through it with cupped hand and feeling the other side. There should be no blockages.

Testing the electronics is not easy as it is a sealed unit but if you have two identical units you can swap them.

For service manual just Google Espar or Eberspacher and download them ;)

chads
02-10-2013, 02:14 AM
I guess I am still wondering how to test all at a stop of this if it is not on unless the engine is running and your are underway.
Do the other systems like fuel supply pump work if the unit is off?
Also where does the mixing valve setting need to be?
Does that have any effect?

Also on a cold start I am not sure why they don't want it to work unless under way.
Chad

Boater
02-10-2013, 11:28 AM
Chads - searching the forum for "booster heater mod" produces this article which should allow you to run the heater when you want;
http://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=668&highlight=booster+heater+mod

Ajakapari - the brief version of the troubleshooting guide can be found here:
http://www.espar.com/tech_manuals/Troubleshooting%20and%20Tips/Troubleshooting%20Hydronic%204-5.pdf

A more complete version is here, noting that the MB control is probably totally different to any of the ones listed:
http://www.espar.com/documents/hydronic4_5.pdf
The key info is on page 25 where the resistance values for the glow pin and sensors are listed to save you blind swapping them.

autostaretx
02-10-2013, 05:21 PM
Do the other systems like fuel supply pump work if the unit is off?
As a hidden "gotcha", there's a "rollover switch" which will kill the heater's fuel pump (until manually reset)...
It appears to be a weighted "slider" that will disconnect the dosing pump if you roll your Sprinter.
I don't know where it's physically located, i've just seen it in the schematics

--dick

glas1700
02-11-2013, 02:01 AM
I guess I am still wondering how to test all at a stop of this if it is not on unless the engine is running and your are underway.
Do the other systems like fuel supply pump work if the unit is off?
Also where does the mixing valve setting need to be?
Does that have any effect?

Also on a cold start I am not sure why they don't want it to work unless under way.
Chad

Start your engine, press the aux heater (ESPAR) button and wait for it to start up. That could take up to a minute before you hear a sound like a little jet engine. You don't have to be moving at all, so whatever you read that says you have to be moving is incorrect. You also don't have to set any of the heater controls for it to work. It's designed to help preheat or bring your engine up to operating temperature more quickly. There are options available to allow it to run before starting the engine.

Boater
02-11-2013, 03:29 PM
Start your engine, press the aux heater (ESPAR) button and wait for it to start up. That could take up to a minute before you hear a sound like a little jet engine. You don't have to be moving at all, so whatever you read that says you have to be moving is incorrect. You also don't have to set any of the heater controls for it to work. It's designed to help preheat or bring your engine up to operating temperature more quickly. There are options available to allow it to run before starting the engine.

The Auxiliary heater and the Booster heater work differently, although I think you have described the Booster anyway. The only difference is in the controls, the heater is physically the same.

I was wondering about the travelling at certain speed issue, and actually if you read Vics links carefully, I'm sure it says that the auxiliary coolant pump will only start at a certain speed/RPM i.e. when the speed/RPM is low enough that the engine coolant pump presumably may not be shifting coolant through the heater quickly enough.

I don't think this is at all relevant to the OP since his aux coolant pump is running, although running and pumping are 2 different situations, if the impellor is goosed that pump could run 24/7 and not pull any coolant through. Maybe he could try with the engine running (which made no difference at idle) but put a brick on the gas pedal to set a higher idle speed (unless he has the high adle option) - ah but the road speed is also implicated. I'm not going to suggest running the wheels whilst on axle stands because I have never felt it a terribly wise thing to do...

I still think it's worth running through the manufacturers troubleshooting procedure since it is published and free for all to read. And if all the sensors etc. are found to be OK and an overheat is suggested, pull the coolant pump off and test it with hoses into a sink.

chads
02-12-2013, 12:29 AM
All good suggestions lucky me the temps were too high to to attemp working on it.
We had about 50 here.
It will be in the 30's tonite so I hope to get a look at it tomorrow.
Chad

autostaretx
02-12-2013, 01:20 AM
the temps were too high to to attemp working on it.
In the older models (like my 2005), the Aux heater (at least) is perfectly happy to operate at 50F.
It only cares that the coolant is less than 180F

--dick

chads
02-12-2013, 02:57 PM
Thanks for the inputs you saved me a lot of time troubleshooting it.
I checked it out and the circulation pump is out.
If I bang on it it will run but sounds really slow.
There is 12v to the prongs.
I got the espar heater to kick in for a bit but then it shut off.
I keep fooling with it ,the running engine was up to110 deg on gauge but couldn't get it to fire again .
After a few attempts heater would cycle again but I'm guessing the the pump would not keep running and it shut down.
I tried the rest again and could only barely get pump to make noise.
I tried to run engine faster but it wouldnt refire.

I found one on ebay for $47 shipped.
Its new aftermarket. Is it worth a try?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/271144426166?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

autohausaz was $132
napa and advanced autozone said cant get it.
International parts locally wants $218 for a bosch
Chad

talkinghorse43
02-12-2013, 03:09 PM
Pump may be bad, but a good heater will run w/o the pump working if the engine is running, so you have bigger problems than just a bad electric coolant circulating pump.

chads
02-12-2013, 03:23 PM
I have the heater booster to be clear.
I got a little white smoke at first but then it was burning clean.
Do I need to hold the button in ,Bowtie type near the rest button, to make it work?
Just checking.
I ate lunch I will go back out and try it again maybe it cooled off and will work again.
The van is from texas so maybe bad fuel in there may take a bit to get it out.
I may take it for a spin to see if the higher rpms help

The water pump was just replaced by the selling dealer so there may be a gasket or something
stuck in there.
I am getting decent heat in the cab but noticed last week that it didn't want to get very hot driving in town after 6 mi or so it was about 140 deg stop and go traffic at 25 deg ambient.
My fan keeps running so i may have to check clutch on it too.
How long till it starts to freewheel on warmup?
Its about 35 here now.
Chad

buckeye dualsporter
02-12-2013, 03:27 PM
Does anyone have a supplier or source for the flexable metal tubes/ exhaust tubes that come off the heater? That is all I need and am running into the wall!

talkinghorse43
02-12-2013, 03:38 PM
Do I need to hold the button in ,Bowtie type near the rest button, to make it work?

Not on mine

My fan keeps running so i may have to check clutch on it too.
How long till it starts to freewheel on warmup?

If you're talking about the engine-driven fan, it locks up when the engine gets too hot. Otherwise it "freewheels" if engine rpms are high enough. It has a viscous drive clutch, so it will rotate with the water pump pulley if the rpms are low enough. With the engine off, try to rotate it by hand - there should be some resistance, but you should be able to get it to move w/o much effort.

talkinghorse43
02-12-2013, 03:49 PM
Does anyone have a supplier or source for the flexable metal tubes/ exhaust tubes that come off the heater? That is all I need and am running into the wall!

The dealer is supposed to be able to supply all required parts per agreement with Espar, but I've found that they can't get some parts. If the dealer can't, then I'd go to Thermo King and ask them to help you get a part for a heater they can sell/service that's equal to the Sprinter's heater part.

chads
02-12-2013, 04:45 PM
I started it again and the heater booster started right up and then shut off after a min or so.
I hope it will work once the pump is repaired.
I am wondering how long it would need to run till it got old fuel out of lines.
seems like it takes some time to spool it up maybe 20 or 30 seconds.

I got the little pump out of there and the brushes are toast.
I will have to get another one.
MB can order one $298
Napa order one with bosch part # $159 altrom? brand.
I will have to ck with freightliner
Chad

glas1700
02-12-2013, 04:55 PM
I started it again and the heater booster started right up and then shut off after a min or so.
I hope it will work once the pump is repaired.
I am wondering how long it would need to run till it got old fuel out of lines.
seems like it takes some time to spool it up maybe 20 or 30 seconds.

I got the little pump out of there and the brushes are toast.
I will have to get another one.
MB can order one $298
Napa order one with bosch part # $159 altrom? brand.
I will have to ck with freightliner
Chad

OEM Bosch pump, $128.73 from www.europarts-sd.com

cahaak
02-12-2013, 05:51 PM
You should be able to get an exhaust tube from a good auto parts store, they usually have the flexible tubes like that in various diameters. For the pump, just search online using the bosch parts number 0392020026. Just looked at bit and the cheapest that I found was a bit under $100. The europarts SD price is pretty good.

Chris

Boater
02-12-2013, 07:00 PM
I started it again and the heater booster started right up and then shut off after a min or so.
I hope it will work once the pump is repaired.
I am wondering how long it would need to run till it got old fuel out of lines.
seems like it takes some time to spool it up maybe 20 or 30 seconds.


Can't remember if this is water or air heater but likely to be similar, start up check takes 3 seconds, then the fan starts slowly and after 60 seconds the fuel pump starts (or is it first ignition attempt?). So don't expect it to fire up right away. Different sizes have slightly different times but I think all over 30 secs before ignition.

To bleed to air out of the fuel lines, and you could perhaps use to bleed old fuel too, take the fuel hose off and put in a jar. Disconnect the +ve wire to the pump and touch it to the hot +ve to make the pump pulse. You need to repeatedly touch the wires since the pump will only pulse once each time. I can't recall if this is the official method or a trick I read about somewhere. You will get a spark so don't do it near flammable gas, like a charging battery.
Safer method would be to push/pull fuel through a disconnected line with a syringe.

chads
02-13-2013, 01:05 AM
I put the hoses back on the pump and started it again and if I held the rpms to 1200 the heater would spool up and run till the temp gauge reached the mark between 110 and 180.
So about 145or 150. Then it would shut down.
I kinda got tripped up this morning when I was at idle and the electric pump would work intermittenly causing the heater to cycle on and off.
What rpm is the high idle set if you have that feature?
I am guessing the heat loss of 10 deg by the time it gets back to temp sensor so it may working pretty close to normal as long as you can keep the coolant moving past it.
It climbs pretty quick at 40 deg ambient you can watch the gauge move slowly.

Ordered the pump today and will get by till it comes in.
Now I am wondering if the thermostat is stuck open a little. It would get up to about 150 or so and thats about it.
Is there a easy way to check this?
I was just going to get a tstat and change it but they are $60 little suprised there it is built in the hose casting.



Once again thanks guys, I'm a very green on these sprinters and would be lost without reading up here first. I would pitty a mechanic who's boss said "Here's a sprinter manual get to it".
It seems that the parts guys I talked to had no idea what I was talking about but could run the part# I asked for.

Chad

autostaretx
02-13-2013, 02:54 AM
What rpm is the high idle set if you have that feature?
It's adjustable with a dealer tool (or DAD), but i think 2000 rpm is the usual as-delivered value.

--dick

Boater
02-13-2013, 09:53 AM
Now I am wondering if the thermostat is stuck open a little. It would get up to about 150 or so and thats about it.
Is there a easy way to check this?
I was just going to get a tstat and change it but they are $60 little suprised there it is built in the hose casting.

Haynes describes a method, if you can find out the opening/closing temp range and have a thermometer, a bowl, a tap and a kettle. Just boil some water, mix with cold in the bowl to get the appropriate temp and suspend the stat in the bowl and see if it opens. Notice that there is a range from starts opening to fully open, and starts closing to fully closed - try and check all 4 if they are different.
Fully open might be above boiling point of water so you may have to make a guess based on others.

2004 should be covered by my Haynes book, I'll try to remember to look it up tonight - but I will mention the Sprinter book is a lot thinner than the Vectra book and it might have been the latter I saw the details in.

chads
02-13-2013, 02:15 PM
I tried it out this morning again and the heater cycled some so I upped the rpms to about 2000 and it worked fine.
I was using a stick on the pedal and was having a hard time getting it to hold steady.

I am pretty impressed with how fast it heated up. Today ambient was about 28 deg.
It also climed to about 160 deg before it shut down with the higher rpms.

I will do the tstat test if I am not getting enough heat in the cab. With it heating up that fast I doubt it is open.
After a couple min. the fan started to freewheel so I am thinking that is ok too.

Chad

Boater
02-13-2013, 04:56 PM
Excellent, hope it continues to work as expected when you get the new pump in!

buckeye dualsporter
02-14-2013, 05:28 PM
The dealer is supposed to be able to supply all required parts per agreement with Espar, but I've found that they can't get some parts. If the dealer can't, then I'd go to Thermo King and ask them to help you get a part for a heater they can sell/service that's equal to the Sprinter's heater part.

The freight liner dealer found them in the book and ONLY avalable from the factory for more money then you want to imagine BUT they are out of stock.

I will go to thermo king Thanks!!

Thermo King hilliard has the parts in stock YEA!

Gulf SV
02-14-2013, 05:40 PM
Does anyone have a supplier or source for the flexable metal tubes/ exhaust tubes that come off the heater? That is all I need and am running into the wall!


If you have not found one yet, the Thermo King shop in Hilliard has a whole stack of them.

Guess I should have read your whole post. The boys in Hilliard are good guys. They don't have all the testing equipment for the Sprinter application, but they will do whatever they can to help.

buckeye dualsporter
02-14-2013, 05:50 PM
If you have not found one yet, the Thermo King shop in Hilliard has a whole stack of them.

Guess I should have read your whole post. The boys in Hilliard are good guys. They don't have all the testing equipment for the Sprinter application, but they will do whatever they can to help.

I went back and added the last line after I called Hilliard. They were super

Boater
02-15-2013, 02:07 AM
I tried it out this morning again and the heater cycled some so I upped the rpms to about 2000 and it worked fine.
I was using a stick on the pedal and was having a hard time getting it to hold steady.

I am pretty impressed with how fast it heated up. Today ambient was about 28 deg.
It also climed to about 160 deg before it shut down with the higher rpms.

I will do the tstat test if I am not getting enough heat in the cab. With it heating up that fast I doubt it is open.
After a couple min. the fan started to freewheel so I am thinking that is ok too.

Chad

Found more info about thermostat test and forgot to relay it!

In the Sprinter Haynes book, they don't list thermostat temp, but say it will be written on it. As thermostats age they react more slowly, the test advice is therefore to make up a bowl of water to the specified temperature and suspend the stat in it on a piece of string (presumably to ensure unrestricted opening). Time how long from when you put it in to fully open, if it takes longer than 2 minutes replace the stat.

chads
02-19-2013, 09:49 PM
I changed out the circulation pump today the espar is working great now.
Chad

chads
02-27-2013, 04:37 PM
The circulation pump is kinda noisy. Maybe like a washer motor or even the wiper motor.
How loud is yours?
Can you hear it in the cab?
Chad

cahaak
03-01-2013, 05:39 PM
The pump should be very quiet, suprised that you can hear it in the cab. It is not that loud. Is it still loud like you say when you use the REST function after turning off the van? I couls say something is amiss if the pump is that loud.

Chris

chads
03-02-2013, 06:41 PM
I can hear it at stop signs etc. I think I am going to return it and get another.
Chad