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Turbo John
02-05-2013, 01:50 PM
Have their been anybody on this forum that has tried to quiet their engines with dynamat etc to try and quiet these engines? I have never been in a newer v6 sprinter but they probably are quieter if you go by some of the threads.

I have all the stock flooring so I am thinking if I remove it and do some work with the best sound deadner I can purchase it might help?

Has anybody done any work in that area?

sailquik
02-05-2013, 01:59 PM
John,
Your data card suggested that your Sprinter came with a factory partition behind the drivers/passengers seats.
Do you sitll have that installed?
My '06 T1N was fairly quiet, but not as quiet as the NCV3's, so you are correct there.
I've always had a partition (I cut about 24" out of the middle of them and hang a double
thickness fleece cloth blanket in the void after cutting) and this keeps alot of the noise that
gets generated actually in the cargo area from coming forward and keeps the heat up in the
cab as well.
Roger

shortshort
02-05-2013, 02:51 PM
I drove a truck with the factory partition. If you still have that in there I feel your pain. It seemed to concentrate engine noise in the cab area. Try removing it. Might be easier to get a "porous" partition than all the insulation work. It would certainly make a bigger difference. I use a lot of dynamat like stuff in my truck, but only in the cargo area. Helps with sheet metal vibration related noise.

Old Crows
02-05-2013, 02:55 PM
TJ .... FWIW.... if you have a roaring sound..... I'd check the hydrostatic clutch on the cooling fan. If it's locked up, you will get a roaring sound as the engine rpm increases. Also, if it's kaput, your mpg will decrease and it will not warm up quickly.

glasseye
02-05-2013, 04:06 PM
I think the OP was asking to quiet the noise coming from the engine, not from the cargo area.

The factory steel bulkhead is a big tin drum. As well as concentrating and reflecting the cab noise, it originates significant noise. Padding and de-resonating this panel will help with cab noise. I made one out of 3/4" plywood. I managed to quiet the cargo area significantly (search a thread called "Frito's Bulkhead") and now the only noise-maker is the engine.

Keeping engine noise out of the cab (the OP's problem) is not so easy. Because of the difficulty of accessing the firewall and the relatively small area available for applying the soundproofing, I'd suggest sheet lead. If ever I need to pull my engine, that'd be my strategy.

My testing with Dynamat-like materials was uninspiring. High price, limited effect.

Turbo John
02-05-2013, 05:01 PM
John,
Your data card suggested that your Sprinter came with a factory partition behind the drivers/passengers seats.
Do you sitll have that installed?
My '06 T1N was fairly quiet, but not as quiet as the NCV3's, so you are correct there.
I've always had a partition (I cut about 24" out of the middle of them and hang a double
thickness fleece cloth blanket in the void after cutting) and this keeps alot of the noise that
gets generated actually in the cargo area from coming forward and keeps the heat up in the
cab as well.
Roger

No I took the partition out. I am building a camper/driver out of the van.
I want the seats to turn around. You gave me an idea with a curtain track and I could install a sound deadner type curtain I suppose.......

Turbo John
02-05-2013, 05:04 PM
TJ .... FWIW.... if you have a roaring sound..... I'd check the hydrostatic clutch on the cooling fan. If it's locked up, you will get a roaring sound as the engine rpm increases. Also, if it's kaput, your mpg will decrease and it will not warm up quickly.

I think the fan is fine but I will check it.......normally if it turns by hand with some resistance they are fine......I get about 23MPG so If it is that I cant wait to see the new mileage! LOL

I think its the nature of the T!N van in general. I want to work on this and see what kind of improvements I can make. I have used the Dynamat in hot rods and normally a hot rod is so loud why do it.

chads
02-05-2013, 05:04 PM
I was able to find a piece of carpet big enough to cover 90% of the bulkhead and another to cover the floor.
I just cut the piece out for the floor and laid it in there if it gets too dirty I will get another
or take it out and hose it off.
I have about 12" exposed at the floor level but have another piece to put there now.
I was having a hard time talking on the phone before that.
Now I can hear the phone no problem the diffrence was definately noteable.
Seems more comfortable in there now too.
Chad

Turbo John
02-05-2013, 05:06 PM
I think the OP was asking to quiet the noise coming from the engine, not from the cargo area.

The factory steel bulkhead is a big tin drum. As well as concentrating and reflecting the cab noise, it originates significant noise. Padding and de-resonating this panel will help with cab noise. I made one out of 3/4" plywood. I managed to quiet the cargo area significantly (search a thread called "Frito's Bulkhead") and now the only noise-maker is the engine.

Keeping engine noise out of the cab (the OP's problem) is not so easy. Because of the difficulty of accessing the firewall and the relatively small area available for applying the soundproofing, I'd suggest sheet lead. If ever I need to pull my engine, that'd be my strategy.

My testing with Dynamat-like materials was uninspiring. High price, limited effect.

Yea I hear you on the Dynamat..still the highest rated sound absorbtion material.

Only a DB meter reading would really be accurate for pre & post applications

Turbo John
02-05-2013, 05:09 PM
So I contacted dynomat and they had some ideas which sound good. The first is the dynamat extreme and then their sound absorber that is 1/2 think and then some quality carpet. I am not real keen on carpet but its not that big of deal to keep it clean.

I also think you can pull out the heater/ac box and put sound absorber under that firewall area.

owner
02-05-2013, 09:26 PM
I also think you can pull out the heater/ac box and put sound absorber under that firewall area.
It will expose some sheet metal for sure, but the heater box is a tight fit.

I insulated my whole heater box in a foil backed dynamat type stuff. The main area is where the cabin filter is. There is only a thin sheet of plastic between the top of the engine and your ear.

Im also thinking about some mass loaded vinyl on the rocker cover plastc thingo. Maybe a layer on the turbo heatshield too.

There is nothing inherently noisy about the engine. I have the same OM612 in my ML270 and it is virtually silent.

Also the bottoms of the doors and the step area need attention.

Boater
02-05-2013, 11:55 PM
I turn the stereo up. :popcorn:

Heater blower box is just 4 nuts, a few wires and vac hose, and then hours of finding the right orientation to withdraw it past the inlet manifold (OK that may different on other engines), so is relatively easy to pull out for access to a vast area of panel with minimal sound deadening. As Owner says though there is a hole almost the same size as the pollen filter leading into the heater box, from where it is nicely ducted to all the vents. One correction though, there is a piece of thin plastic AND a piece of paper between you and the engine noise! :lol:

I have arrived late to camp with friends and they were surprised to see me there the next morning - the van is much quieter on the outside than it is on the inside!

owner
02-07-2013, 07:28 AM
After a run on the motorway today, I'm in two minds now as to whether adding sound insulation on the firewall is going to make much difference.

If you lift off and coast on overrun at motorway speeds, there really isn't much difference in noise. The engine is basically making no noise at that point, so its got to be something else. There seems to be a lot of wind noise around the edges of the windscreen and door mirrors. I wonder if some MLV in the pillars might help? I know everything helps, but its diminishing returns, and MLV isn't as cheap as I'd like it to be, not by a long shot. Also maybe a pane of lexan in the front quarter windows for double glazing like I'm doing to my rear windows...
http://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=22667

Eric Experience
02-07-2013, 10:34 AM
John.
If you want to work out where the noise is coming from, duct tape around the edges of the doors then clime in through the back door and drive it. you will be surprised how quite it is. To partly fix the wind noise glue a strip of foam rubber along the edges of the door openings. Eric

shortshort
02-07-2013, 03:04 PM
http://www.piercehome.us/Sprinter/WindNoise.pdf

Might help

surlyoldbill
02-07-2013, 03:07 PM
Most vehicle noise is from the sheet metal acting like a drum (or reverb spring for you old timer guitarists). Undercoating or adhesive rubber materials prevent the sheet metal from resonating. Other road noise comes from knobby M/S or all-terrain tires on pavement (why would you have these on a VAN?!). The roar of the engine comes in after that. People have had good results adding a noise barrier such as Brown Bread or Dynomat over the front wheels and firewall, as well as adding that or other insulation to all the large sheet metal surfaces. I've used an adhesive duct foam and foil insulation material designed for construction use (get it at Home Depot/Lowe's) with great success on the sliding door. I'm planning on doing the walls and ceiling with the same material.

glasseye
02-07-2013, 03:15 PM
Frito is so quiet following my sound insulation project, the loudest noise source (other than when the engine is revving above 3K) comes from the B pillar, right beside my left ear. I did nothing there at all.

Carpets and curtains might absorb a little of the high frequencies, but to eliminate the real problem (the low frequencies) you need isolation and mass.

glasseye
02-07-2013, 03:21 PM
John.
If you want to work out where the noise is coming from, duct tape around the edges of the doors then clime in through the back door and drive it. you will be surprised how quite it is. To partly fix the wind noise glue a strip of foam rubber along the edges of the door openings. Eric



Not to start an argument, but my experience is exactly the opposite. I taped over all of the front door joints and climbed in the back doors and drove fast.

Zero difference.

I put a layer of 1/4" self-stick dense foam between the front doors and the body, effectively sealing the joint.

Zero difference.

My conclusion was that very little noise is generated by the door gaps. :professor:

The mirrors? Now that's a different story.:idunno:

surlyoldbill
02-07-2013, 03:48 PM
just a thought, an unproven thought:
Owls glide silent because of the little feathers on their legs. What if there was some type of fuzz on the mirrors that worked in the same way?

Turbo John
02-07-2013, 04:05 PM
just a thought, an unproven thought:
Owls glide silent because of the little feathers on their legs. What if there was some type of fuzz on the mirrors that worked in the same way?

I vote this the : Best Answer !:cheers:

Boater
02-08-2013, 01:54 AM
Check your grille, there are probably a couple of Owl wings in there you could carefully dig out and glue to the mirrors. Just be sure not to use any Bald Eagle wings you may find wedged in there, might get yourself into trouble. :cheers:

M+S tyres on my car make a huge difference to the noise, I think it's on the verge of packing up all winter.

surlyoldbill
02-08-2013, 04:15 AM
I should have turned around and found that Great Horned Owl that smashed my windshield on the Utah/Nevada border on 50 last summer...

Aqua Puttana
02-08-2013, 12:51 PM
I should have turned around and found that Great Horned Owl that smashed my windshield on the Utah/Nevada border on 50 last summer...
We hit one in the wee hours in Virginia last year. It looked like a basketball that came in low from the side of the interstate. Scared the sh*t out of my wife and me.

Stopped for fuel. Found a mouse body hanging from the grill by its head stuck in the slats.

The owl never got to enjoy his meal. I felt badly, but what could be done?:idunno:

Back to topic.

I just yesterday put some tires on the front that have less aggressive tread than those replaced. Much quieter on the highway now. No other sound modifications. vic

glasseye
02-08-2013, 04:07 PM
I took a bird hit in the chest on a motorcycle once. Knocked the wind right outta me. I had to stop. Neither of us ever saw the other.

surlyoldbill
02-08-2013, 04:37 PM
Birds:
The owl that hit me (swooped in out of the dark) was bigger than a chicken. I was going about 50mph, luckily it hit sort of at the rearview mirror, so the fractured safety glass was not in my field of vision for the rest of the trip (interior layer was not broken).

I'm writing a list of van stuf to do if I ever get warm sunny afternoons free again, including taking out the headliners and wall panels and putting in that adhesive foam insulation I mentioned; as well as a roof vent and bundled 16 gauge low voltage irrigation wire front to back for later adding whatever. My van is ok, but when I ride in friend's X5 or Escalade their's are noticeably quieter.

glasseye
02-09-2013, 12:45 AM
My van is ok, but when I ride in friend's X5 or Escalade their's are noticeably quieter.

:lol::idunno::hmmm::bounce:

surlyoldbill
02-09-2013, 01:19 AM
And I can't believe how much louder my van is than my Mom's Bentley.

Turbo John
02-09-2013, 10:56 PM
And I can't believe how much louder my van is than my Mom's Bentley.

I went an plucked a few feathers from the Hoot Owl. Not sure if they would work or not:idunno:

So I went out and attached them to the mirrors.........and to my surprise! :thumbdown:

I have decided after all of this R&D that nothing will work except a new amplifier.:rad: