View Full Version : radiator swap...

01-12-2013, 09:33 AM
is it as easy as it it is in my head? im thinking drain,undo hoses,remove shroud,flip off clips and pull out?....or do i have to remove slam plate?....i need to do it quickly as im suffering man flu,and its threatening to snow here in the uk,i dont fancy drain the water if it starts to snow,im doing this as the engine still runs hot on the motorway,and asking people after telling them it was a secondhand rad they put in everyones pointing to blockage in rad,so i bought one from ebay for 70,it blew the head gasket in sept so they put a brand new head on so the easiest thing to eliminate now is the rad...if it still happens then it must be a slipping impella....

01-12-2013, 02:54 PM
you have to take the grill, top plate, fan, condenser, and such away from the front then you can get to the hoses easier, remove the radiator and the charge air cooler as one piece, it will take less time if you pull the whole front off. change the fan clutch while you have it off.

01-14-2013, 12:10 PM
I guess if you haven't already done this the snow has started, but just in case, I'd suggest removing the slam panel (bumper, grille, headlights + 5 bolts) to make life much easier. In fact, the slam panel is over the top of the rad and not much clearance to the fan so you will almost certainly need to remove the panel.

The rad is secured to the panel by 2 clips, the shroud is secured to the rad by clips and there is one more clip for the right hand plastic trim (looking at the engine from standing in front).
The top plastic trim screws also hold the top of the power steering cooler brackets (don't think you can get to them with slam panel on).
The side trims are held in place by the screws that attach the intercooler to the rad - for your purposes might as well leave intercooler and power steering connected together and slide rad out from behind.
With the shroud unclipped and pushed back over the fan the Rad should come out OK once the hoses are disconnected, as long as whoever last tightened the bottom hose clip up angled it sensibly there should be no problem getting to it to undo it - I tend to use a 7mm socket on hose clips, the screw driver slots are usually mangled (Intercooler RHS uses 8mm hex hose clips - no idea why).

If you are concerned about the impeller it would be a good idea with that amount of dissassembly to remove the water pump and check, but I realise this is more difficult on the CDI models than on my 312D.

01-27-2013, 11:19 AM
all done had to take it all off as i took it out all in one!!

11-26-2013, 07:41 AM
Any other tips on this? I am going to change my rad on my 1999 mk1 T1N on friday and would appreciate any other info.
How long did it take please and is the slam panel easy to remove?
Also i am in two minds about changing the fan viscous clutch while i have the rad out. How free should the fan be on a cold engine whilst the engine is off?


11-26-2013, 09:46 AM
Not difficult at all. I had to replace mine when the trans cooling lines just spun around in the fittings when I was trying to replace them. Steel fittings into a aluminum radiator, the top care right off the bottom just spun around till it destroyed all the threads (typical MBZ, I guess)!

11-26-2013, 12:48 PM
For the '99 (some changes around the headlights and slam panel in 2000)
I think 5 bolts hold the slam panel in, 2 on each wing (high and low) and 1 on the centre strut in front of the radiator (remove strut with panel is easiest).

First remove bumper - 2 bolts, might be behind number plate) and then slides off brackets each side.
Also remove grille - 2 plastic screw rivet things, both mine died, and flex gently to unhook top from slam panel and lift up because there are 3 lugs at the bottom.
Indicator clusters can be a nightmare, look on the inside for a plastic tab wth serrations that hook onto the edge of the slam panel, you need to push the lever outwards to release it and then pull the cluster out forwards, mine needed careful levering with screwdriver the first time....
All headlight screws should now be exposed, 4 each. Carefully pull the vac hose and cable connector off the rear of the units, I did snap a vac lug on one and had to replace the headlight, I think, or was it a replacement headlight that the lug snapped on so I had to transfer the internals from the old headlight?
Remove the rad clips from the panel and it will be ready to unbolt - if you don't need to move it right away you can leave the bonnet release connected but might be worth unbolting that and cleaning and lubing it whilst you are in the area.

On mine, because I have had it apart before I could probably do it in 2 hours, first time fighting with rusty screws (some might snap and need drilling out) and working out how things go together, allow yourself a full day just in case, especially if you do the fan clutch.

How free should the viscous clutch be - you know I can't remember but freer than mine was! If you don't have the correct tool to counterhold the fan whilst undoing it, I managed by jamming the drivebelt with a stout piece of timber and using the entire belt as a strap wrench :)

11-26-2013, 02:27 PM
Thanks boater that sound very promising. I have had all those parts off bar the slam panel before so hopefully it won't be too bad.
My rad is only slightly leaking but i am about too head over 1000 miles to go snowboarding in the french alps and the last thing i want is to be worrying about a possible radiator failure.



11-29-2013, 07:16 AM
It took me 90 mins to get this far

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q109/two_much_wind/new%20album/WP_000715_zps30e1ea31.jpg (http://s134.photobucket.com/user/two_much_wind/media/new%20album/WP_000715_zps30e1ea31.jpg.html)

and then 3 hours in total to do the swap. Knowing what had to come off saved me a lot of time, no messing around. Hardest bit was the two bottom 10mm bolts that hold the intercooler to the rad. The captive nuts were spinning roun so i had to wedge a few screwdrivers in there to fix them.
Job done. :thumbup:


11-29-2013, 10:03 PM
Good result!
I think I had the most trouble with the 4 screws that hold the power steering cooler (loop of pipe) onto the rad pack - it's the little bits rather than the big ones that slow these jobs down!

06-06-2014, 04:32 AM
swap my radiator today. Thank to Boater for the instruction. A couple of cautions when ordering the correct radiator for 2003 sprinter.

1st off Behr makes three model for 2003, one for manual transmission which does not have a transmission fluid connector.

2nd Behr also make a gas radiator with part number A9015003600, whereas the diesel part (which is correct) has part a901500800. The ..800 vs ..600 makes a different.