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OrioN
01-03-2013, 05:12 PM
...so had a Service A & Tranny flush/filter done yesterday at me local MB...

They did a 'Short Test', and all is good, just a bunch of old 'stored' codes, and no 'hidden' ones for engine/exhaust/etc's... :rad:

From the adviser, it seems MB has yet again, adjusted the service intervals and requirements for various service... 25k km's for fuel filter :idunno:... 16k km's or 1yrs (not 2) for oil/service a/b :idunno: Anyone have a current 2013 Service Manual?

Techie was very impressed will old tranny fluid. First one done, and at 80k km (50k mi. for you folks who held off the private contractors at gun point back in the 70's). Said the fluid was nearly as bright and clean as new, minor particles on the magnet, nuttin' in the filter. However, I have a slight rubblin's as I near 0 mph when coming to a stop at slower speeds... :idunno: anyone notice this?

Look's like I will need a front break job shortly...could be 3 months or 12 months away... so I'm getting quotes.
Anyone know what the book and/or real life hrs are for this service?

jdcaples
01-03-2013, 05:30 PM
I don't know the real time.

Book time used to look like this.... probably close enough for budgeting purposes.

49039

-Jon

OrioN
01-04-2013, 03:41 PM
Mucho's Jon...

My main dealer quoted the job as I left... 1.5hrs and $417 for parts... I don't have issue with 1.5, I'd even say 2.0 is fair and covers road testing and me gabbing for 45 minutes... however, $417 seems 'too profitable' for my likings.

That said, the other dealer in the valley, just quoted $1060...and wouldn't give me details or entertain my line of questioning regarding their pricing. :bash:

I see parts online listed as 'oem' for $225-ish plus shipping/duties which which could bring it to $325-ish. Doesn't say Genuine MB though... 'oem' in my experiences is very grey...:shifty:

FireandIceHVAC
01-06-2013, 02:20 AM
...so had a Service A & Tranny flush/filter done yesterday at me local MB...

They did a 'Short Test', and all is good, just a bunch of old 'stored' codes, and no 'hidden' ones for engine/exhaust/etc's... :rad:

From the adviser, it seems MB has yet again, adjusted the service intervals and requirements for various service... 25k km's for fuel filter :idunno:... 16k km's or 1yrs (not 2) for oil/service a/b :idunno: Anyone have a current 2013 Service Manual?

Techie was very impressed will old tranny fluid. First one done, and at 80k km (50k mi. for you folks who held off the private contractors at gun point back in the 70's). Said the fluid was nearly as bright and clean as new, minor particles on the magnet, nuttin' in the filter. However, I have a slight rubblin's as I near 0 mph when coming to a stop at slower speeds... :idunno: anyone notice this?

Look's like I will need a front break job shortly...could be 3 months or 12 months away... so I'm getting quotes.
Anyone know what the book and/or real life hrs are for this service?

I'm in the middle of reading through my 2013 manual. they call for oil change at 1 yr or 10,000 miles, 20,000 miles for fuel filter ( I find that too long , I will probably change at 10,000) 2 yrs for brake fluid flush and 40,000 for tranny service. but there is no mention of when to change rear end fluid? anyone know if rear end fluid is synthetic from the factory?

Arthur

Jchirchirillo
01-06-2013, 04:01 AM
Mucho's Jon...

My main dealer quoted the job as I left... 1.5hrs and $417 for parts... I don't have issue with 1.5, I'd even say 2.0 is fair and covers road testing and me gabbing for 45 minutes... however, $417 seems 'too profitable' for my likings.

That said, the other dealer in the valley, just quoted $1060...and wouldn't give me details or entertain my line of questioning regarding their pricing. :bash:

I see parts online listed as 'oem' for $225-ish plus shipping/duties which which could bring it to $325-ish. Doesn't say Genuine MB though... 'oem' in my experiences is very grey...:shifty:

400.00 ish what they get down here @ GMC land. I dooze it meself in an hour.. fronts for a 110.00 ish . I buy them cheapos from pepboys. There warranteeeeed . Its all good. Never had a problem . YET..
Yes sir, they call there parts OEM replacement . But theres a name brand called "OEM" . HAHA .. the bastards.. But they wear just as terrific . Them rotors rust up like an s.o.b.. though .. But I still run them on all 3 of my gas burners :thumbdown:

Skiyup
01-08-2013, 04:41 PM
I've used the NAPA rotors, pads and the price is good. I've done front once, back once, have 285K on my 2006. After you by the torx bit for the rotors the job is relatively straight forward if you have the inclination to go it yourself.

Jchirchirillo
01-08-2013, 04:51 PM
I've used the NAPA rotors, pads and the price is good. I've done front once, back once, have 285K on my 2006. After you by the torx bit for the rotors the job is relatively straight forward if you have the inclination to go it yourself.

Do you happen to know the size of that torx bit?

Tks, jimmy

cahaak
01-08-2013, 05:52 PM
I think the torx is a T60, but I could be wrong - going from memory when I did the brakes. I will second that the job is pretty easy. I would get a set of Torx (Estar) bits that fit on the end of a socket from Harbor freight or your local hardware. Only like $9 and you use them everywhere on the van. For me, the hardest part of the brake job was getting the caliper bracket off. It was on there tight and I had to use a cheater pipe on my socket to loosen it. If the rotors have been on the van for any length of time, you may have to use a 2 lb hammer to pound them off. All detailed in threads here. If you have a decent jack and stands, the job goes pretty quickly and easily. Probably take you about 2 hours total for the first time (both sides).

Chris

newmilford
01-09-2013, 11:03 AM
Arthur, I read yesterday that the rear end fluid should be changed at 150,000 miles.

Jchirchirillo
01-09-2013, 11:31 PM
I think the torx is a T60, but I could be wrong - going from memory when I did the brakes. I will second that the job is pretty easy. I would get a set of Torx (Estar) bits that fit on the end of a socket from Harbor freight or your local hardware. Only like $9 and you use them everywhere on the van. For me, the hardest part of the brake job was getting the caliper bracket off. It was on there tight and I had to use a cheater pipe on my socket to loosen it. If the rotors have been on the van for any length of time, you may have to use a 2 lb hammer to pound them off. All detailed in threads here. If you have a decent jack and stands, the job goes pretty quickly and easily. Probably take you about 2 hours total for the first time (both sides).

Chris

Hey ,tks pal:cheers:

Jchirchirillo
01-09-2013, 11:34 PM
Arthur, I read yesterday that the rear end fluid should be changed at 150,000 miles.

Unless you make it a practice of going through deep puddles like I did ... :frown:

PTChambers
01-18-2013, 07:28 PM
There is a breather on the differential somewhere (have not looked at my Sprinters Diff). If whatever is on there is removable, put a hose barb connection on it (making sure it wont hit anything on rear end movement) and a rubber hose. Run the hose up high somewhere under the body and put a clamp on it to hold it there, of course leaving enough "play" to account for rear end movement.

Including a loop in the hose so the end points down is a good idea as well as putting some kind of a filter on the end to keep the bugs out.

The issue is that you warm up the diff and oil and air that is in the volume by driving, then you douse it in cold water and everything contracts drawing in whatever is outside the breather. If it is under water, it sucks in water and you are hosed.

Once the mod is made, you can drive in deep water all you want (but I dont know how the tranny is breathing so ...)

Used to do this on jeeps.. Only takes one trip through a stream and replacement of rear end gears to learn this (on a jeep, the transfer case and tranny also have breathers that need to be extended).