Astro 1442 13" Rivet Nut setter

PlantLady

Debbie with plants
I installed my first piece of L-Track with rivet nuts today and had a request for the details. I haven't used the track yet and haven't tried other tools, so I don't know that this is the best setup.

I used the Astro 1442 13" Rivet Nut setter. It was $66.39 with free shipping from Amazon
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003TODXQW
The kit can set six different sizes of rivet nuts, including the 1/4"x20 that I wanted to use for the L-Track.

The rivet nuts are Westward 5NNR9 Rivet Nut, Knurled, Zinc steel, 1/4-20x0.590, also from Amazon, but no free shipping. 50 rivet nuts for about $25 with shipping:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004ZROFG4

The tool worked much easier than I expected. I'm not super strong and it was plenty easy to set the rivet nuts. With the knurled nuts it was easy to tell when to stop. Once I got the process dialed in, it only took three squeezes of the tool to set the nut. Some of the reviewers in Amazon complained about the tool quality, but I think it will work quite well for the (limited) amount of use and force I plan. I can imagine someone much stronger breaking it.

Let me know if you want more pictures of anything. I can get those tomorrow when it's light.
 

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d_bertko

Active member
Congrats, Debbie, on your initiation to rivet nut setting.

I see that the majority of hand setting tools on the market look like yours.

I used a simple ratcheting tool---also with a quick learning curve of just a couple of nuts:
http://www.rivet-nut.com/C845%20Rivnut%20Tool%20Manual.pdf

The ratchet tool was straightforward to use but I found it tiring to set around 200 nuts for my many rows of L-track. Had to break it up over a few sessions.I would be curious about how our efforts differed.

The real answer for me should have been to buy an air tool. Should have bought an air compressor!

I do remember that my rivet nuts took a "Q" size bit (25/64") and I bought a couple of that size bit for a nice sharp cut. The preliminary holes were cut with a 3/8" Unibit and then finished with the Q bit. Not absolutely required but most of the holes were precise enough to require lightly tapping the uncrushed nut into place---wanted to max out the grip area.

Glad to see you got the knurled flavor of nut for its vibration resistance. Most of my nuts were for a "crush depth" of a single thickness of the Sprinter sheet metal. I did get a small number of double depth in case I needed to join two pieces of sheet metal anywhere. The nuts are reasonably forgiving and I think I could have done it all with just the thinner-metal nut.

Pleased to say they have all held tight for many years now.

Dan
 

PlantLady

Debbie with plants
The ratchet tool was straightforward to use but I found it tiring to set around 200 nuts for my many rows of L-track. Had to break it up over a few sessions.I would be curious about how our efforts differed.

Hi Dan - I saw that tool with references like "small tools to keep in your airplane for emergency repairs". Definitely more compact and economical, but my wrists wouldn't have lasted through much of that. By the time I got to my 7th nut I could set them in under 10 seconds, so setting a couple hundred wouldn't be out of the question. Drilling the holes took much longer and required more precision.

I only had the one kind of nuts, so I'm lucky that they worked for what I needed.
 

surlyoldbill

Well-known member
I have the Harbor Freight rivnut device, and it works just fine. I think it was $25, and packs of rivnuts are under $10 for 100-200. I've used the 1/4-20 for most things. I used it while restoring my '63 Corvair Rampside, and have used it in two places in the Sprinter. One trick I learned early was to use a small triangle shaped file in the starter hole to make some grooves, so the rivnut won't come loose if you screw something into it too tight.
 

mofo989

Member
\ I did get a small number of double depth in case I needed to join two pieces of sheet metal anywhere. The nuts are reasonably forgiving and I think I could have done it all with just the thinner-metal nut.



Dan
What is the sheet metal thickness of the sprinter body? I'd like to be sure I get the right kind for single thickness.
 

d_bertko

Active member
I did not yet own a micrometer when I got my rivets some years ago. And it is possible that some of the sheet metal is a little thicker in a place or two.

The bulk of my order was Marson knurled 1/4-20's #57350 grip range .022-.165"

I did get a few #57354's with grip range .165-.250 in case I needed any joinery of added sheet metal.

The 57350's had enough crush range for all the single-sheet applications on my Sprinter.

http://www.marfas.com/images/MarsonCatalog.pdf

Dan
 

d_bertko

Active member
The ratchet tool was straightforward to use but I found it tiring to set around 200 nuts for my many rows of L-track. Had to break it up over a few sessions.I would be curious about how our efforts differed.

Hi Dan - I saw that tool with references like "small tools to keep in your airplane for emergency repairs". Definitely more compact and economical, but my wrists wouldn't have lasted through much of that. By the time I got to my 7th nut I could set them in under 10 seconds, so setting a couple hundred wouldn't be out of the question. Drilling the holes took much longer and required more precision.

I only had the one kind of nuts, so I'm lucky that they worked for what I needed.
Yup, the airplane homebrew gang were the ones that convinced me to use rivnuts. I did have a very nice ratcheting wrench to assist me and counting the quarter-turns made it easy to repeat the same tightening each time. You probably got the more ergonomic solution.

I'd still go for an airgun if I did it over again.

I had not thought of carrying my small tool and nuts (no jokes, please) on trips but it sounds like a good idea. One of the other vans on a boat shuttle banged up his front end and it was a PITA to chicken-wire it back together. Would have been a great rivnut use.

Dan
 

pele

2012 2500 HR 144"
I must be nearly blind. In your photo I can barely see where the l-track is located. Is it within that crevasse mounted horizontally? What parts of the van walls did you drill your pilot holes through for the rivets? How much weight do you think it could hold and how many rivets did you use?

Also, if you did put the l-track in that horizontal channel in your photo. Was that channel there already or did you cut out an opening for the l-track to sit in? I think my van has that part covered.

Thanks,
 

reuselady

New member
Debbie, I'm curious about your use of the L-track now that you have had it for a while.
Has been it been a good thing?
How are you using it and how do you attach things to it?
Thanks
 

d_bertko

Active member
Dan here, not Debby,

I think I have the most extensive L-track install of anybody here with 10 rows on theceiling, floor and walls.

Installed in 05.

I re-ordered a dozen swivel ring fittings twice as I discovered how useful they are. Light duty items get a bungee for securement. The rings also work with 1" or 2" roller buckle straps and or with quick-release 1" backpack straps. The swivel rings move on 1" multiples and require no tools. Quick and convenient.

A favorite, albeit more expensive, securement are my 6 seatbelt sets with snap-ring ends. Used for both securing people and gear.

I use the threaded-stud fittings to attach my benches and shelves to the walls and ceiling and my fridge to the floor. Stronger than the swivel rings and 1/2" multiples for placement depending on the type of stud fitting. Requires a wrench to move.

Awesome for folks wanting flexible layouts. Less necessary if your layout has only things that will never move again.

The L-track itself helps spread point-load loads over a wider area. Important for the low load rating of the ceiling and helpful where the thin sheet metal of the walls would warp or not resist a significant load on a sheet metal screw.

Dan
 

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reuselady

New member
Thanks Dan,
Our 2008 came with L-track along each side wall but no attachment thingys. Researching, I found the wheelchair fittings and the O rings and snap ends but what we really desire are the threaded stud fittings. I realize it was a few years ago you did yours but do you have any suggestions on where to purchase these?
(this time I'll remember to refresh the page so I see a response sooner!)
Tkx, jeanette
 

d_bertko

Active member
Thanks Dan,
Our 2008 came with L-track along each side wall but no attachment thingys. Researching, I found the wheelchair fittings and the O rings and snap ends but what we really desire are the threaded stud fittings. I realize it was a few years ago you did yours but do you have any suggestions on where to purchase these?
(this time I'll remember to refresh the page so I see a response sooner!)
Tkx, jeanette
cargoequipmentcorp is where I got mine. Friendly folks. They customized some L-track for me for a very reasonable upcharge.

IIRC, you can get two kinds of threaded studs from them. I believe one type centers the stud over a L-track "hole" while the other over the constricted area. Occasionally useful where spacing is critical to have the effective option of 1/2" spacing.

There is also another supplier (could not find in my notes) that offers threaded receivers instead of studs. Just another option but perhaps useful for a quick-release fitting where a thumb screw might be desired.

Dan
 

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