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lildevildee
12-18-2007, 06:53 AM
I noticed a couple of you saying you've had your center bearing fail on the '07 Sprinters. I have a bearing that is going out; haven't taken it in for warranty yet. If it will only cost me a couple hundred, I'll most likely have my husband change it out. I'm not fond of stealers...

However, I'd love more info on what you noticed, etc.

I just turned 14,000 miles tonight; this started last week and typically only happens below 40 degrees; don't know if it's temp related but never seems to happen on warmer days.

Altered Sprinter
12-18-2007, 07:02 AM
At the count we now have two centre bearing failures
Guess I'll have to track which one between the 2500 and 3500 series. PS lildevildee is your 2500, a passenger or cargo vehicle. if the latter do you know! your load carrying capacity.
Richard

lildevildee
12-18-2007, 07:05 AM
2500 passenger van, I'll update my siggy.

Sprinter
12-18-2007, 03:22 PM
Mine is 2500 cargo high top, bearing went at 40k, it's loud at any weather as soon I start driving, then becomes quiet ocassionally as I drive at highway speeds

tab380
12-18-2007, 06:42 PM
What is a center bearing? On the Motor? Axle? Trans.?:idunno:

Sprinter
12-18-2007, 07:32 PM
What is a center bearing? On the Motor? Axle? Trans.?:idunno:

It supports the propeller shaft but it's not really in the center. It's mounted closer to the transmission than to the rear end

Mine fell just after 36k warranty expired, at least it's not very expensive, $140 online, $235 at the dealership

http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/index.cfm?action=getJointLocator&siteid=213693&chapter=&sectionids=23,0&groupid=10047&subgroupid=20112&componentid=60223&make=8&model=Sprinter&year=2007&catalogid=1&displayCatalogid=0

sikwan
12-18-2007, 08:12 PM
What is a center bearing?

Pic in this thread.

http://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=749&highlight=saddle+bearing



Mine fell just after 36k warranty expired, at least it's not very expensive, $140 online, $235 at the dealership

What were the symptoms? Noise?

Altered Sprinter
12-18-2007, 09:07 PM
Sprinter! Has your bearing failed completely?
I noticed you said it starts when you engage drive then goes.
An interesting notation: flatten the pedel to the metal and the Drive shaft will bang, but it's the ESP adaptive system of anti-skid process cutting in.
Thinking lilevildee is saying only in the cold on take off, again this is the ESP adaptive breaking system doing it's thing before all becomes normal :hmmm: I think.
Richard

Sprinter
12-18-2007, 09:35 PM
What were the symptoms? Noise?


Yes, loud noise like metal scrubbing, sounds just like when brake pads are gone and are scrubbing discs. But instead from wheels it's coming from "between the seats", that's why it scared me when I first thought TRANNY At highway speeds noise becomes high pitch and then goes away eventually ( after warmed up?)

Altered, I still drive it as it wasn't replaced yet, seems there is no tension, just noise - if I let brake pedal go in D it goes nice and smooth. I just dont understand why noise is still there when I throw to N at high speed, I thought propeller is not spinning in neutral

Altered Sprinter
12-18-2007, 09:56 PM
Sprinter I'll run this back up again latter on in the day,
Quote I think with a combination of both cold weather and the ESP system combined is giving you the impression of a fault.
To be honest I tested the Living daylights out of the new NCV3 auto's! Hard acceleration they DO NOT LIKE IT FROM A COLD STANDING START
Sprinters still use live axles at the rear no independent supension there lies part of the reaon for vibrations etc.
BACK LATTER.
RICHARD

sikwan
12-18-2007, 10:40 PM
I just dont understand why noise is still there when I throw to N at high speed, I thought propeller is not spinning in neutral

Throwing it in Neutral only disconnects the engine from the driveshaft. Driveshaft still spins during any speed coasting.

lildevildee
12-19-2007, 05:46 AM
It supports the propeller shaft but it's not really in the center. It's mounted closer to the transmission than to the rear end

Mine fell just after 36k warranty expired, at least it's not very expensive, $140 online, $235 at the dealership

http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/index.cfm?action=getJointLocator&siteid=213693&chapter=&sectionids=23,0&groupid=10047&subgroupid=20112&componentid=60223&make=8&model=Sprinter&year=2007&catalogid=1&displayCatalogid=0

At least your stealer is nice. Mine said $300 and on backorder :rolleyes:

lildevildee
12-27-2007, 06:24 PM
Well, it's making noise daily now. Of course the bearing is on backorder at the local stealer. We're getting ready to move 3000 miles across country; I will be loaded with about 6000lbs (between travel trailer, dogs, humans, and gear.) I *really* do not want to be driving across country and have the dang bearing go out. Looks like I'll be ordering one of those aftermarket bearings and getting it installed before we move Feb. 1.

Sprinter
12-28-2007, 12:08 AM
Well, it's making noise daily now. Of course the bearing is on backorder at the local stealer. We're getting ready to move 3000 miles across country; I will be loaded with about 6000lbs (between travel trailer, dogs, humans, and gear.) I *really* do not want to be driving across country and have the dang bearing go out. Looks like I'll be ordering one of those aftermarket bearings and getting it installed before we move Feb. 1.

It's not after market actually, at trademotion You get original parts, You just pay less
good luck, BTW where are You moving?

lildevildee
12-29-2007, 12:27 AM
It's not after market actually, at trademotion You get original parts, You just pay less
good luck, BTW where are You moving?


That's good to know. Although I'm wondering if aftermarket wouldn't be better! I'll be ordering it tonight.

We're heading to Norfolk, VA.

lildevildee
01-24-2008, 04:39 AM
Just an update for this thread. I ordered the part through Berry Dodge. It was the wrong part; the catalog referenced the wrong number. They were really good about taking care of me.

The dealer was able to get in one of a few center bearings and replaced it for me under warranty. I turned 200 miles on the new bearing today. Both my husband and I noticed that it started having a low-pitched whirring noise intermittently, same as the last one started. I called the dealership today and asked them what they recommended since I'm moving on Friday (Feb. 1) and would they ship the van to me. He said I should just drive on it and when I get out to VA, to have it taken care of out there.

Looks like I'll be driving the 99 Ford F350 with almost 12 times as many miles (187,000 miles) out to VA and towing the Sprinter; I don't trust it.

jdcaples
01-24-2008, 03:48 PM
Just an update for this thread. I ordered the part through Berry Dodge. It was the wrong part; the catalog referenced the wrong number. They were really good about taking care of me.

Looks like I'll be driving the 99 Ford F350 with almost 12 times as many miles (187,000 miles) out to VA and towing the Sprinter; I don't trust it.

Thank you for taking the time to write some the feedback, lildevildee.

I'm curious about the dolly/platform you'll be using to tow the Sprinter from Washington State to Virginia.

Safe travels!

-Jon

lildevildee
01-24-2008, 07:26 PM
If we have to tow it, we'll flat-tow and remove the driveshaft. It's a bit too big for most carriers/dollys. I know it's not ideal but it'll work in a pinch, esp. if it does need to be towed. We will have it set up out here before we leave to connect to the tow bar.

We're still up in the air about driving it or towing it. I want to go to the Dodge dealership and have them put in writing that they recommend me driving on the bearing until I get to VA since I am moving. I don't want it to bite me in the butt at a later date. If I had another month here, I'd just have the dealership take care of it now.

dougwright
01-29-2008, 06:38 PM
Is a center bearing the same thing as a hanger bearing?

My van is in the shop right now for a high pitched whine at high speeds and a grinding noise at low speeds. The mechanic says it's the hanger bearing which supports the drive shaft at the center. Two weeks to get the part.

-Doug

lildevildee
01-29-2008, 07:00 PM
Sounds the same. I've also heard it called a carrier bearing and a support bearing in addition to the center bearing. I've also heard a carrier bearing being the inside the tranny. This is the exterior bearing that supports the drive shaft. 2 weeks? A couple weeks ago, there were 2 in Alaska; don't know if they are still available.

I took mine to the dealer for the second center bearing and they couldn't hear anything. I drove the service writer around and he barely heard anything. Anyway, they told me to drive it until it is more noticable. He's thinking new driveshaft.

Sprinter
01-30-2008, 02:13 AM
Is a center bearing the same thing as a hanger bearing?

My van is in the shop right now for a high pitched whine at high speeds and a grinding noise at low speeds. The mechanic says it's the hanger bearing which supports the drive shaft at the center. Two weeks to get the part.

-Doug

We have a third one!
Sounds exactly what You describing! At lower speeds when You just start moving it acually sounds like worn out brake pads, right?
Another recall coming soon?

Altered Sprinter
01-30-2008, 03:38 AM
Actually I'm the one that called this a centre bearing carrier OK. that is a Carrier that supports the inner bearing..it's an English variant MB may call it by a different name:idunno: I have three variations to the carrier not the bearing
One how the carrier is mounted (B) the last current ones have dampeners in between the chassis and the carrier and two out frame designs.
So one works, the other seems to have an issue but which one? If it's the carrier!or some other reason that causes this...unless we are talking about something completly different. even I'm confused now.
Richard

5992

5993

5994

Bikerdad
01-31-2008, 12:59 AM
My center/carrier/hangar bearing got noisey at about 7K miles than became quiet the day that I went to the dealer for repair. It got noisey again at 11K miles and stayed noisey. Although it was temperature sensative, it was never quiet once it started the second time. This time the dealer had no problem hearing it. They say that this is the first 07 center bearing that they have serviced. They had the same problem as all of the other dealers and could not get a new bearing quickly. I will only say that they appropriated a new bearing, installed it and I can hear the radio again. My van is a 144, 2500 with the ten passenger interior. This is the second time that my dealer has stood by me and I am very pleased with their service.

hkpierce
01-31-2008, 04:25 PM
This is the second time that my dealer has stood by me and I am very pleased with their service.



You should mention the dealer's name in the appropriate section of the forum Dealer Info, Reviews, and Experiences (http://www.sprinter-source.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=81)

Anthony d'Eon
02-04-2008, 02:10 AM
Hello,
I am brand new to this forum. It's very interesting indeed.

I also needed a new center bearing. Mine lasted till 12,000 kms. Almost till the first oil change. It too was on BO.
It's time DC and MB bring in a good stock. If they keep burning up at this rate we will need to fit an other brand bearing in its place.
One from Ford or GM can be purchased as aftermarket at UAP for about 1/4 the cost and will last 400,000 miles.

We'll see if MB can eventually build us a good one.

Altered Sprinter
02-04-2008, 02:16 AM
Hello,
I am brand new to this forum. It's very interesting indeed.

I also needed a new center bearing. Mine lasted till 12,000 mks. Almost till the first oil change. It too was on BO.
It's time DC and MB bring in a good stock. If they keep burning up at this rate we will need to fit an other brand bearing in its place.
One from Ford or GM can be purchased as aftermarket at AP for about 1/4 the cost and will last 400,000 miles.

We'll see if MB can eventually build us a good one.

Anthony
It would help if you state the model version you have 2500 or 3500 van hi top cab chassis etc
What is your average internal loading capacity! and which rear spring set are you running on please. has the van been retro fitted with shelving etc. work van or for private use passenger variant etc
Hailing your colours from Nova Scotia Halifax.6061
Richard

lildevildee
02-05-2008, 11:09 PM
A friend of mine that is a cargo pilot was driving a Sprinter in southern Italy last week. He laughed and thought of me when that center bearing was howling like mad!

I wonder if at the next place, I'll get a new driveshaft or just another bearing. I won't know until probably late Feb; we're having a heck of a time getting out of the Seattle area.

Altered Sprinter
02-05-2008, 11:13 PM
A friend of mine that is a cargo pilot was driving a Sprinter in southern Italy last week. He laughed and thought of me when that center bearing was howling like mad!

I wonder if at the next place, I'll get a new driveshaft or just another bearing. I won't know until probably late Feb; we're having a heck of a time getting out of the Seattle area.

On the wing! of a prayer.
Richard

Sprinter
02-05-2008, 11:29 PM
A friend of mine that is a cargo pilot was driving a Sprinter in southern Italy last week. He laughed and thought of me when that center bearing was howling like mad!

I wonder if at the next place, I'll get a new driveshaft or just another bearing. I won't know until probably late Feb; we're having a heck of a time getting out of the Seattle area.

You are gonna be fine, this bearing is just noisy but it'll keep spinning
Have a good trip

jdcaples
02-05-2008, 11:46 PM
A friend of mine that is a cargo pilot was driving a Sprinter in southern Italy last week. He laughed and thought of me when that center bearing was howling like mad!

I wonder if at the next place, I'll get a new driveshaft or just another bearing. I won't know until probably late Feb; we're having a heck of a time getting out of the Seattle area.


You're still on the west side of the Cascades?

lildevildee
02-06-2008, 12:06 AM
You're still on the west side of the Cascades?

For whatever reason, we're still here. Right now, we're waiting on a plumber to show up - lead pipe crumbled under the old cement wash basin. Of course the tools are all packed. The other night, my husband went to rewire a switch and ended up rewiring 1/3 of the basement. Right now, he's adding on the breakaway brakes to the F350 (it'll be much easier to flat-tow that than the Sprinter.) We have also been keeping an eye on weather; seems 90, 84, and 80 just aren't in great shape. As of right now, we're heading south then across 10 (I have family in FL.)

dougwright
02-17-2008, 03:25 AM
Dealer called and said my center/hanger bearing is in along with some other parts.

I'm worried that prolonged driving with this bad bearing might have caused premature wear on other components (ie: tranny). Should I be worried?

-Doug

lildevildee
03-03-2008, 02:20 PM
It was asked in another thread about my center bearing (the second one that is failing.)

Before I left Seattle, I had the dealership listen for the bearing (it sounded dry.) They couldn't hear anything. I drove it out to VA the LONG way (5 to 10 to 95.) It's louder now but still sounds dry; it isn't the same howl I had before. Stopped by the local dealer to get raped for an oil filter (was in the process of moving - I couldn't order one in time) and talked to service about the bearing. They've never heard of a bearing failing, looked at me like I had a 3rd head, and then said if I've gone through 2 bearings, something else MUST be wrong. I called Freightliner in the area but they don't service Sprinters. I'll have to make an appt. for this one to go in ... and hope that it's not the same story of parts being on backorder and they'll get to it when they can.

mobileoilchange
03-03-2008, 02:51 PM
Just another thing that they should of put a ZERK fitting into that would allow it to be greased. Look at the diameter of the bearing and the rpm it turns. it isnt under alot of load, but it is spinning under a high rate of speed.

Sprinter
03-03-2008, 02:53 PM
My Sprinter is grounded now so it makes no money. The second bearing that broke is lot worse case, different sound, louder and lot of tension so I don't drive it because it moves 1 MPH at idle speed. Also to get the bearing now is much harder, trade motion doesn't have it and I am on the "waiting list" at my dealer ship.

Add few rust spots! I just found before first winter is over and I think we are getting to the end of my Sprinter experice..

HERK
02-16-2010, 02:35 PM
I have a 2008 144WB 2500 standard roof with 3,700 miles that has been very babied that has about a 1000 pounds hauled in it for about 1500 miles. We took into the dealer for a noise that sounded like a bad brake and rotor to be told that the "Carrier Bearing" needs to be replaced. Does anyone know if they have come up with a better design or am I looking at this being a possible problem that I will be having again in the near future? It sounds like a very common problem for the NCV3 Sprinters.

jdcaples
02-16-2010, 03:43 PM
http://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?p=76411

See this posting (http://sprinter-source.com/forum/showpost.php?p=76414&postcount=2) for more unfortunate news from MB and from whence a fix may eventually be designed and brought to market.

-Jon

HERK
02-16-2010, 05:47 PM
http://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?p=76411

See this posting (http://sprinter-source.com/forum/showpost.php?p=76414&postcount=2) for more unfortunate news from MB and from whence a fix may eventually be designed and brought to market.

-Jon


Thank you for the info this is very disappointing knowing the MB is not going to do anything except keep replace the carrier bearing till it is no longer under warranty.

Altered Sprinter
02-16-2010, 10:49 PM
http://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?p=76411

See this posting (http://sprinter-source.com/forum/showpost.php?p=76414&postcount=2) for more unfortunate news from MB and from whence a fix may eventually be designed and brought to market.

-Jon
originally posted 30/1/2008
NCV plated My 2007 standard. Extra protection as sheave is available from a 4x4 NCV
Richard
21380

shanemac
02-16-2010, 11:50 PM
Yesterday at highway speed around 100kph i noticed a strange noise and some slight vibration, it was the first time i heard and felt this symptom after i slowed down for a turn the noise went away and stayed away even when i went back to the higher speed, at lower speeds things sound normal. Mine is a 2500 short and i have around 800-1000 lbs loaded all the time. My production date is January 2007. For what its worth i will include some pics of mine...and yes its dirty:hmmm:

http://shane.servicetechhelp.com/hangerbearing1.jpg http://shane.servicetechhelp.com/hangerbearing2.jpg

http://shane.servicetechhelp.com/hangerbearing3.jpg

Altered Sprinter
02-17-2010, 12:24 AM
Yesterday at highway speed around 100kph i noticed a strange noise and some slight vibration, it was the first time i heard and felt this symptom after i slowed down for a turn the noise went away and stayed away even when i went back to the higher speed, at lower speeds things sound normal. Mine is a 2500 short and i have around 800-1000 lbs loaded all the time. My production date is January 2007. For what its worth i will include some pics of mine...and yes its dirty:hmmm:

http://shane.servicetechhelp.com/hangerbearing1.jpg http://shane.servicetechhelp.com/hangerbearing2.jpg

http://shane.servicetechhelp.com/hangerbearing3.jpg
Tin series 3500 410 series 9014107408: Note Identical same as a continuance for NCV2006 onwards. Note 3500 =2500 supposedly, at your end of the pond.
Interesting that photo is from a 2 series sprinter referred to as a 2T wrong one it has no reinforced saddle bearing support back plate.
The shaft appears to be as narrow as a 2 T Sprinter,apart from the massive amount of viable rust!YUK:eek:
Richard

jdcaples
02-18-2010, 10:13 PM
originally posted 30/1/2008
NCV plated My 2007 standard. Extra protection as sheave is available from a 4x4 NCV
Richard


Do you have a part number and will it fit on my 2007 NAFTA 2500 NCV3?

-Jon

Altered Sprinter
02-18-2010, 10:26 PM
Do you have a part number and will it fit on my 2007 NAFTA 2500 NCV3?

-Jon
Jon pm Chris my vans are off the road for a while.I'll make a call for a part number cause I can't drive at the Mo.
Thinking if there are variations in the tail-shaft thickness as to NCV and NAFTA: they should, fit Your van.
Richard
Note the difference in the carriers support backing bracket

.21436
NCV:thinking:
21437

sprintguy
02-19-2010, 12:42 AM
I have noticed (on the many support bearings That I had to replace) that the actual support bearing is usually crooked from the get go (unevenly loading the bearing). This was confirmed by measuring the distance at 4 points from the bearing to a marked center point on the prop-shaft. So far the ones I corrected after replacement have not had an issue yet... Another good point is that if you have a 3 piece shaft arrangement it is definitely necessary to replace both support bearings PERIOD. No matter how good you think the other one is. :bounce:

Carl

Altered Sprinter
02-19-2010, 08:35 AM
Bearing assembly No:50 Via EPC net 1.23.2.0 DW 02/2010 Delta 2
Intermediate bearing 903 410 00 0
Bracket 901 411 09 40
have full schematics
Providing your Mid-based NCV U.S NAFTA cargo van has this matching; group:41-propeller shaft.
Europe: Subgroup 045-Split drive shaft 901 4107 408-304 this bearing assembly which includes bearing saddles hanger reinforcement plates two of plus cover this unit fits 901 903 904 906 variants.
As Carl stated;alignment must be exact to centre plus the additional dampeners must be fitted behind the saddle bolt plate to the chassis rail support bracket No 45.
Checking on failures over the years from 2002 now to 2010 six only were ever replaced in my locality,Ambulances of course.

21456

Richard

Altered Sprinter
02-19-2010, 11:32 AM
Jon: This one is for you.
Forum is having it's usual glitches time out's, or invalid posts with PDF's.
So I printed the schematic out.and snapped it, I also looked at the U.S site regarding the bearing design..
If that bearing on Shanemac's Photo is what you have,I can find nothing to match that on a 3 or 4 series Sprinter from 2002 to 2010.
I did find two that looked similar:hmmm: one on an ancient without the rubber boots, 1995 Sprinter, Vito, and sedans.
Unless I'm missing something :idunno: all 2 series variants passenger and sedan.
Anyway here is the full schematic.
Are your tail shafts different.?
Hope it helps.
Richard
21458

Hubert
02-19-2010, 01:33 PM
mine was raplaced on waranty at 73kkm, one was very loud and other have some rubber damage

jdcaples
02-19-2010, 04:52 PM
I received a part number from Chris for the Centre Bearings with protectors on 3-piece shafts: a9064100381



Attached are the two PDFs: the diagram roughly mapping the picture posted by Altered_Sprinter (thanks, Richard) and the part numbers.

NAFTA EPC says that a9064100381 is not valid for my chassis.
-Jon

PS: I'm also attaching the parts list and the picture (also in PDF) for a9064100381

folzag
02-20-2010, 05:50 AM
This was confirmed by measuring the distance at 4 points from the bearing to a marked center point on the prop-shaft.

Carl

Carl, can you elaborate how you take this measurement and how precisely you measure? Is it something one could accomplish in a driveway with simple tools?. Thanks much. -Allan

sprintguy
02-23-2010, 01:07 AM
simply done: using a tape measure , measure from the bearing casing to the rib on the front drive shaft (in 4 points ,top, bottom left side and right) even a well trained eye can see if the bearing is straight or not (the rubber mount tells all)

Carl

72chevy4x4
02-23-2010, 01:24 AM
I had to replace both mounts on mine but assumed it was from the accident before me...while putting all back together, I couldn't line up the carrier w/ the original bolt holes without putting tension on the rubber framework, so I enlarged the bolt hole in the top of the carrier ever so slightly and mounted w/ an additional washer. The end result was no noticable tension on the rubber mount.

Altered Sprinter
02-23-2010, 02:11 AM
I had to replace both mounts on mine but assumed it was from the accident before me...while putting all back together, I couldn't line up the carrier w/ the original bolt holes without putting tension on the rubber framework, so I enlarged the bolt hole in the top of the carrier ever so slightly and mounted w/ an additional washer. The end result was no noticable tension on the rubber mount.

From a proffessional point of view: Note & Quote! " I could not line up the carrier w/ the orginal bolt holes" Second quote: Without putting tension on the rubber framework"

This is a classic indication your front frame is bent out of alignment to the Mercedes Original specs.

Indicating you require the chassis to be placed on a chassis alignment with the correct jigs for resetting the exacting calibrations of the chassis memory set.
It is more than likely your left or right front rail crumple zone has a bend,kink or twist in it ,and this will effect your tracking of the vehicle especially under moderate to H/D Loads.
If I am correct you can not execute the repairs without professional help and this can only be done if the chassis repair shop has the right jig codes for realignment.
Richard

72chevy4x4
02-23-2010, 02:55 AM
Thanks Richard, I don't doubt it is twisted but unsure as to the degree of damage (from micrometers to centimeters). The alignment specs show where the camber is out on one side...I have a set of eccentric bolt 'camber kit' to be installed and then all the alignment specs will be within values.

I was curious if the propellor shaft was the culprit as the carrier bearing's position moved toward the rear end. It seems unlikely that the movement around and forward of the engine cradle caused a shortening of distance betwenen the carrier bearing and rear end.

Altered Sprinter
02-23-2010, 03:56 AM
Thanks Richard, I don't doubt it is twisted but unsure as to the degree of damage (from micrometers to centimeters). The alignment specs show where the camber is out on one side...I have a set of eccentric bolt 'camber kit' to be installed and then all the alignment specs will be within values.

I was curious if the propellor shaft was the culprit as the carrier bearing's position moved toward the rear end. It seems unlikely that the movement around and forward of the engine cradle caused a shortening of distance betwenen the carrier bearing and rear end.

I'm speculating as to thought if the front rail has a twist or whatever;then the engine is offline to dead center between A and B of the original specs;thus the drive shaft is out of line, to the differential, of which could reasonably explain why you Quote: enlarged the hole at the top of the carrier.
Get under the chassis and see if the carrier bearing that is attached to the mono rail member has a compression dent on it look very carefully.
Jon said you do not have this part No 50 on your carrier if this is correct it's designed as a re-reinforcing plate for flex adjustments are left to right facing directly to engine or rear differential, there is virtually no lateral movement adjustment, therefore adjustment can only be executed by dead center algorithm form part No intermediate bearing for centering alignment between the secondary plate attached to the mono rail where the only adjustment for equalizing the actual bearing is done via Part No 55 if you do not have the additional bracket Part No 40.
It's either left to right forward or backwards, "No drilling or widening of the carrier bearing holes should ever be required "EVER"

Look carefully for a twist or kink in the top Member
Note on the underlying mono support rail! there is a secondary plate installed over the existing Main Body Chassis support Mono rail, for re-reinforcement.
This adds further support for Part No 45 on the lower schematic
The first photograph is of a NCV Automatic
The Tin is identical ,with the exceptions of the rubber flutes in the surrounding bearing as are the standard Ruber dirt trap boots since 2002.
There should be little differences on ours and yours with the above support rail irrespective of what ever design bearing you have.
If some one cared to photograph both TIN and NCV at your end I can work out what Carl is actually saying and run a photo up with measurements for adjustments either laterally or what ever.
Richard

21593

21594
This is a Non NAFTA Thing No adjustments to cambers offset can be done with out the required tools to support anything removed in suspension components .
As the jigs retain the Original memory sets.
Do it without then it becomes very difficult to reset to factory specs.
Even I wont touch the front end without the right equipment.
Then again I'm not like a few of backyard Mechanics like I know down under.:thumbdown:
Richard

Eric Experience
02-23-2010, 10:25 AM
Chevy.
I have had a similar problem with a collision, What I think has happened in your case is the cross member has moved back in the accident. The cross member is located by 2 hollow dowells around the mounting bolts, thes dowell are stronger than the chassis so they tend to elongate the hole in the chassis. To find out measure from the jig holes in the chassis to the cross member. I found when I corrected this movement the front end alignment was also correct. If you measure between the jig holes for and aft of the cross member and then diagonaly you will know if your repair is correct. Eric.

Altered Sprinter
03-05-2010, 09:37 PM
That design is decade, out of date:idunno:
21789
Richard

jdcaples
03-06-2010, 12:02 AM
That design is decade, out of date
Richard


What should we, who are driving MY 2007 with 1997 designs, do about it?

-Jon

Altered Sprinter
03-06-2010, 01:28 AM
What should we, who are driving MY 2007 with 1997 designs, do about it?

-Jon
Take measurements,the last photo above is the rear bearing on the Long wheel base units not the front one.
2T variants under 2800 kg are the only ones I have seen with the rear bearing up front as first in line.
Richard

72chevy4x4
03-06-2010, 01:34 AM
2T variants under 2800 kg are the only ones I have seen with the rear bearing up front as first in line.
Richard

What does that mean?

Altered Sprinter
03-06-2010, 01:53 AM
What does that mean?
It by the way as to the many variations shown on these bearings that The boys are saying you have ! Then that bearing is off a 2500 sedan not a van unless you count the first baby 2800 kg sprinters you had SWB,MWB LWB use the revised front bearing system .in Aus at least. I see no difference on the chassis floor rail as mine up front, with the exception of the older version used on NAFTA units. but no one is saying front or rear bearing failure.
Richard

nikolay0630
03-06-2010, 03:52 AM
I also had the same issue with my 2007 cargo 144 Sprinter 2500 high roof. The center bearing fell at 55k. As soon as I start driving, it’s loud. It becomes occasionally quiet at highway speed. Was very funny to me, when the “high tech MB guy” drove the van with me and hears the noise – he starts guessing (couth be pressure pump, front suspension, brake rotors and so…):crazy: . I knew 99% is the center bearing, but I was quiet.
He ask me to come next week, so some other “high tech MB guy” can test drive the van again:lol:. I couldn’t believe – they start selling Sprinters, but they definitely not familiar with the Sprinters.
I ordered the Center bearing (fold.bear. package) A 906 410 0281. Got it in two days and released by myself in 40 min – was very easy. No noise ….like new again. :thumbup:

folzag
03-06-2010, 07:02 PM
What does that mean?

I have no doubt Richard is nice, knowledgeable, and sincere, but I've been reading Richard's comments for over a year now and for the life of me, I can't figure out what he's saying over half the time. Nor can I figure out if it's some Oz dialect or simply bad typing. Most people seem to be able to converse with him, so I've always reckoned it's just me.

folzag
03-06-2010, 07:38 PM
simply done: using a tape measure , measure from the bearing casing to the rib on the front drive shaft (in 4 points ,top, bottom left side and right) even a well trained eye can see if the bearing is straight or not (the rubber mount tells all)

Carl

Well it's a beautiful sunny day here in Portland. I just went out and measured my van. Both bearings are within 1/16" an inch of square right and left. Top obviously is harder to measure but bottom seems within the same 1/16" as the right & left. This is undoubtably how the dealer tech put them together after replacing them under warranty last summer. Is 1/16" good enough or should I try to get it perfect? (Wish I would have known to measure before taking it in for service... I wonder what the factory tolerance was.)

Thanks.
-Allan

jdcaples
03-06-2010, 09:07 PM
For those in the metric world, 1/16 of an inch is 1.5875 mm

... and I have no idea if that's good enough, or if it may as well be a kilometer out of spec.

-Jon

BBlessing
03-07-2010, 02:27 AM
I have no doubt Richard is nice, knowledgeable, and sincere, but I've been reading Richard's comments for over a year now and for the life of me, I can't figure out what he's saying over half the time. Nor can I figure out if it's some Oz dialect or simply bad typing. Most people seem to be able to converse with him, so I've always reckoned it's just me.

i thought it was just me...:lol:

bb

sprintguy
03-07-2010, 02:39 AM
Well it's a beautiful sunny day here in Portland. I just went out and measured my van. Both bearings are within 1/16" an inch of square right and left. Top obviously is harder to measure but bottom seems within the same 1/16" as the right & left. This is undoubtably how the dealer tech put them together after replacing them under warranty last summer. Is 1/16" good enough or should I try to get it perfect? (Wish I would have known to measure before taking it in for service... I wonder what the factory tolerance was.)

Thanks.
-Allan

I like to shoot for near perfect (even if the professional "re-engineering tool " has to come out). Note: on the 3 piece shaft design the first bearing should have a shim welded to the top on both sides (mounting holes) and the rear most bearing( on most models) do not have this shim, which is which can only be known by looking at the bearings before removal ...

Carl

Altered Sprinter
03-07-2010, 02:44 AM
Ah'rr but your bearings are failing at early premature stages, ours are not! So the question is why?
That's the Queens English.
American : MB should have fixed this ;Bitch,bitch,bitch yakking yak's and off the topic you go.
Since the inception of the forum,this continues to be a factor on thread after thread, with bitch and the blame game with MB:crazy:
Waht I'm saying is we have a front bearing redesign since 2000-2002 I think that has no real-time-short-time-premature failures.
No real photographs of note.or how to adapt the said mischievous bearing from My-side of the pond,
I hear adjusting the bearing to center of drive shaft, replace both:professor: not one,fair enough, outrageous prices etc, or our chassis is different,sorry they center rail is not that different if any, from ours as to your NAFTA ones in either 2 3 or 4 series single or dual wheel units as they share the same floor plan.with one exception on the Tin and that is the raised blocks on the front to adapt 16'rims NCV are identical at both ends of the pond.
Think about it,you may just learn something new,(maybe.)
Richard

sprintguy
03-07-2010, 03:17 AM
I have an idea :hmmm: How many of these center bearing failures (at early mileage up to 50k miles) occur in the southern or western states , compared to the northern East and northern West States.
I live and work in the Northeast, and it just so happens that the majority of bearing failure happens around winter and through till' spring. Sealed bearings with no dust boot still take on water and **** ( problem #2 )

Richard : I rarely see center bearings going bad on the T1N's (better design in my book)

Carl

Altered Sprinter
03-07-2010, 03:42 AM
I have an idea :hmmm: How many of these center bearing failures (at early mileage up to 50k miles) occur in the southern or western states , compared to the northern East and northern West States.
I live and work in the Northeast, and it just so happens that the majority of bearing failure happens around winter and through till' spring. Sealed bearings with no dust boot still take on water and **** ( problem #2 )

Richard : I rarely see center bearings going bad on the T1N's (better design in my book)

Carl Carl thanks for chiming in,I also note;state by state variations North East South West
Quote Tin and NCV use the same identical bearing apart from rubber spaces as a acting dampener. In Australia.
Look at [SHANEMAC'S PHOTO] Apart from a lesser bearing look at the condition of the entire chassis.No offense meant of course to shanemac, but that photo looks to be at least 20 years old.

Rust and dust are a Sprinters! Or even any other makes worst enemy.
Again I have the distinct advantage in identify problems over similar Makes in the class of a Sprinter,that have no wax applied to bare metal parts,that have no cadium plating, or even galvanizing on them.

I can run a current photo of my 5 year old Tin and not a scrap of rust can be found of any notation worthy of hitting me back on. it's almost as new as when it came off the lot.

Yet I have a 60 year old method [Canadian] on how to prevent a chassis and paintwork from degrading into a rust heap.As to keeping both, in a clean pristine state of repair.

Now you folks know how severe snow and salt can write a vehicle off inside of two to five years.
The method-equally applies to engines suspension, no alt, or bearing failure, or belts getting caught up in glazed conditions or deterioration where slippage or tensions place strain on working parts especially brakes and cables.
I'd be interested in as many who may reply, as to those who don't.
That is from those who seriously,want to address the issues.
Richard

folzag
03-07-2010, 03:44 AM
I have an idea :hmmm: How many of these center bearing failures (at early mileage up to 50k miles) occur in the southern or western states...

Carl

FWIW, mine died in August after about 12 months and 8k miles. I drove it in the preceding winter probably 6 times. And this is in Portland, Oregon where we only get rain in the winter anyway.

Altered Sprinter
03-07-2010, 03:56 AM
FWIW, mine died in August after about 12 months and 8k miles. I drove it in the preceding winter probably 6 times. And this is in Portland, Oregon where we only get rain in the winter anyway. This is where we need photographs to compare condition to help assist as to the demise of a bearing assembly.
8k just does not make any sense.
Richard

shanemac
03-07-2010, 06:07 PM
Richard that is one reason i took pictures of mine to show pretty much a worse case scenario, around hear its 90 % sand mixture that is put on roads in winter. I have close to 30,000km and at least half of those km is in nasty conditions, time and grim will tell how long mine will last. Maybe today i will measure the 4 points as Carl stated for a base point.
.

Altered Sprinter
03-07-2010, 06:42 PM
Richard that is one reason i took pictures of mine to show pretty much a worse case scenario, around hear its 90 % sand mixture that is put on roads in winter. I have close to 30,000km and at least half of those km is in nasty conditions, time and grim will tell how long mine will last. Maybe today i will measure the 4 points as Carl stated for a base point.
.
shanemac:I really appreciate your feed back yes off road conditions, requires some extra detail as a preventative maintenance solution/ During the week I'll run up photos of my Tin now 5 years old, as a guide I will detail a maintenance program to keep it in the same condition as similar to mine.
Yes I go through snow back roads with clay gravel grit roads too.
Richard

Chandlerazman
03-08-2010, 12:10 AM
Does this mean on my 1 ton dually, I have the puny little weakling of a center bearing??!!
(Gotta love the driveshaft loops in case of detachment :rolleyes:


http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z229/Chandlerazman/Sprintercenterbearing1.jpg


http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z229/Chandlerazman/Sprintercenterbearing2.jpg

Altered Sprinter
03-08-2010, 12:25 AM
It's the front one I'm interested in most please:bow:
Richard
PS: if you guys are serious there is a quick fix to the rear bearing as it has a common design fault that was never tested for longer term durability in part as to why the front bearing is different,to the lesser rear bearing.

jdcaples
03-08-2010, 02:12 AM
It's the front one I'm interested in most please:bow:
Richard
PS: if you guys are serious there is a quick fix to the rear bearing as it has a common design fault that was never tested for longer term durability in part as to why the front bearing is different,to the lesser rear bearing.


Longer term durablity was never tested?

Why would Daimler allow something like that to leave the Germany? Or do I really have a Chrysler product, manufactured in Detroit and a bunch of labels that are basically lies about where and when my Sprinter was manufactured? Honestly, I'm starting doubt that I bought a Sprinter.

-Jon

Altered Sprinter
03-08-2010, 02:50 AM
Longer term durablity was never tested?

Why would Daimler allow something like that to leave the Germany? Or do I really have a Chrysler product, manufactured in Detroit and a bunch of labels that are basically lies about where and when my Sprinter was manufactured? Honestly, I'm starting doubt that I bought a Sprinter.

-Jon
Jon don't you go negative on the forum
Ever.
What you got,:thinking: well it is questionable. I have no answer to that! [Honest.] Where I am attempting to go is on an uncharted path with the forums context,it goes in part off topic but it is directly 100% Sprinter related.

In fact I did start a thread that would have eventually migrated into this very problem you have but application of variations apply to all bearing pulley assemblies.
Name and Blame..Seek placed it into off topic,I closed it down as a result of a troll that do not belong on the forum.

He should, and should have asked beforehand.


If this issue can be resolved,either in part of! or full;? and I think it can. :hmmm: Then we all need to contribute towards the thread.

I need high quality front bearing photographs at varying angles including the point of the chassis bolt on connection,The rest with some chit chat, may just eventuate into a worthy thread of note.
Carl has indicated by default a part reason for failures we need John from upscale and Andy as to precise measurements,as to a highly possible retro fix.

I'm waiting for weather to clear before I place current, not the original photographs that I have to show a clear understanding of where failure will be accelerated as seasons pass,irrespective of which bearing design you have.

Here is a basic question.
:professor:
Why do you think the rubber flaps in the bearings outer carrier case are there for.????
Think about it.
Richard

OrioN
03-08-2010, 03:01 AM
... how quickly we forget...

remember the 'what it is it, who made it, and why is it in our 2007 vans' rear differential issue? Seems NA plays to a different tune...

Altered Sprinter
03-08-2010, 03:09 AM
... how quickly we forget...

remember the 'what it is it, who made it, and why is it in our 2007 vans' rear differential issue? Seems NA plays to a different tune...
Then lets stop the blame game, and show MB if I'm on the right track,and show the engineers that this is truly a global forum that folk read.

Either you all a bunch of Sheila's, or mice:thumbdown: If your real men step up and get with the forums true identity.... "Sprinters Dominate" They just need a little TLC:drool:
Richard.

Chandlerazman
03-08-2010, 03:20 AM
That's right you all you women (sheilas) out there... Step up to the program and lets git' r' done :tongue:

Chandlerazman
03-08-2010, 03:37 AM
Richard, I'll take another look under the van, However, the bearing I pictured is the only one I have on my dually.

Altered Sprinter
03-08-2010, 04:08 AM
Richard, I'll take another look under the van, However, the bearing I pictured is the only one I have on my dually.

Simon Is your CHASSIS SUPPORTING BEARING PLATE LOOK LIKE THIS,irrespective of it being the only bearing on your drive-shaft assembly.
21829
21828
21830
Note there is a difference between a 2500 and 3500 in the USA:As to the chassis supporting plate or are they the same.?
Yes or No>
Richard
Is there an exposed bracket such as this on your NCV
21843

Altered Sprinter
03-08-2010, 12:37 PM
CURIOSITY KILLED THE CAT
:rolleyes:
Sent a PM to Chris asking for help, basically I was not sure if the center bearing front one was the same for Manual and auto.
I believe Chris will log in with his photos too.
Currently the part No for the NCV is as follows.
And again thank you Chris for your help,as always.
2 prop A 906 4100 281\3 prop A906 4100 381

I assume a single bearing carrier is A 906 4100 181 as in 1.2.3

Tin is A 903 410 00 10 for the intermediate Bearing followed by 123.
Bracket (901 411 09 40)

Now this is where the mystery deepens,as it places me in a hard corner.
All of the recent photos I have run up, are direct copies from older threads going back to January 2007.
In copying, the camera properties have altered to current date 2010.
So if you search you will find the originals to back the dates up.

In saying this: Chris says that the Tin are Tin and so the NCV is what you have,the one that seems to give the problems.

However as I have said before on two recent threads ,at the Time I was photographing both the VW Volkswagen Crafter the current one, and the NCV automatic as the VW Crafter retained the semi automated sprintshift of which VW calls quickshift.

Looks like I will have to go to town and burn the original files to work out which was which.
In saying this the VW and the Mercedes are the same Brother and Sister.

Now this is where it gets to be interesting; it matters not as to what this photograph comes from either the current VW Crafter across the lot from Mercedes, or on the Lot with one of three new current NCV models, this was what was photographed at the time 2007 it was not on a Tin.
21853
First photo shows the introduction of the NCV the one on the left was the automatic I took the pic of the front bearing,I think?
21854
This photo was taken on the Mercedes Lot I recognized the concrete apron floor
21855
This photo of the front bearing on a automatic NCV was from either or either as it was cropped and zoomed in to get a better image of the photo.
This is why I need the original from the raw files to identify which van it came off.
At the time both Tin and NCV cargo trucks were being sent from Argentina not Germany
That's a different factory of final assembly as the stickers were all over it from customs
If out of bondage they were sent from S Africa.easy to identify by the manufactures glassware
Imprints, stated Argentina.

Now the glass is made in India,look on the side window glass manufactures name and Google it. As we all know each country as to where the Sprinters are being sent present themselves with a unique differences some as so,so almost not understood like brake pads,as to local laws that had different brake stopping distances.Batteries now that's ripper the good ones last seven to ten years.ones white the other is black apart from AGM and deep cycle starting batteries, not to mention paint and sealants, that have two types of finish.:shhh:

I need to go to the lot,in the latter part of the week, and see if the changes are different on the last for the NCV's prior to the newer Euro 5 variants.
I still say that if the prop shaft spline on the NCV is the same as the Tins, it should be able to retro fitted as Only six bearings were ever replaced in my sector 4 Ambo's and two high mileage long wheel base courier units. In conclusion you good old boys complain about costs well that bearing at full RRP AUSTRALIAN PRIOR TO GST
IS $363.41 CONVERT THAT TO U.S DOLLARS.
The saddle is AU $ 94.42
:crazy:
Chris can do better than that.
So lads bare with me I simply am not sure as to where the front bearing model photo came from.
Apart from the fact, it's the same as the TIN.
If wrong I'll go dig a hole
21856
Richard

SPRINTERUK
03-08-2010, 12:52 PM
tricky
the last picture is a tin sprinter

cheers
chris

Altered Sprinter
03-08-2010, 01:38 PM
tricky
the last picture is a tin sprinter

cheers
chris No new tins left on the lot at the time, read the last PM It may be the Krafter it would make sense as both the inline-5 and quick shift were retained.

I'll get the original photo files tomorrow and go through them one by one I know where the break was between the Mercedes Lot and VW over the road.
The Crafter is at Jackson's Hobart or the lot Moonah, so I'll nip out and check the Crafter if it's not in Launcston.

Still does not explain the high failure rate,the forum is full of various threads of both bearing and u joint failures.

It leads to the same old question as to why the U.S Vans are having these issues ,and I'm being honest as to the true numbers of failures, as the forum has only a small percentage of owners as compared to fleet operators,of whom are not represntative as a majourty on the forum.
This bearing problem needs a fix.
So where does the fault lay!. surely not rust??
Richard

Hubert
03-08-2010, 02:02 PM
not anly U.S vans have this issues, lots of them here in Europe have the same problem, no mater is it MB or VW, I think they done some money savings in factory making those bearing with crap material, when mine was replaced they told me the new one are redesigned but I don't know what exactly is changed

Altered Sprinter
03-08-2010, 02:10 PM
not anly U.S vans have this issues, lots of them here in Europe have the same problem, no mater is it MB or VW, I think they done some money savings in factory making those bearing with crap material, when mine was replaced they told me the new one are redesigned but I don't know what exactly is changed
Hubert look under your van and match the front bearing to any of my photos please. I asume you have a 5-inline with the manual or semi automated quickshift.
Richard

SPRINTERUK
03-08-2010, 02:27 PM
hi
the centre bearing are the lastest fix from mercedes
a9064100381 replaced a9064100181(do not use now)
a9064100281 replaced a9064100081 (do not use now)
these seem to be ok
we have put plenty of miles on these new units all ok
cheers
chris

Altered Sprinter
03-08-2010, 02:32 PM
Where is the difference Chris between the old variant,and up dated revision.
Richard

folzag
03-08-2010, 05:18 PM
Photos of front and rear center bearings. According to the warranty invoice, the item numbers were 082M/MOP 68031835AA. Not sure if that is a part number, or refers to the work procedure. Also, noticed they replaced the sealring on the differential bearing and re-lubbed the rear axle at the same time.

Richard, you may note the dirtiness of the underside. I haven't washed or waxed the undercarriage since buying the van. ;-)

This is a NAFTA 2500 passenger. Let me know if there's anything else I should mention.

21863
Above photo is the front hanger

21864
Above photo is the rear hanger

OrioN
03-08-2010, 08:33 PM
Can one of the symptoms of a failing bearing be a 'fluttering' or vibration when the van transitions from cruising at a given speed to going down an incline and using engine breaking?

aeroshots
03-08-2010, 08:54 PM
OrioN,
Thanks for asking this question. That is exactally a symptom I have. One example is going over an overpass on the interstate--on the back side of the overpass when zero (or close to it) throttle/torque is being applied to the drivetran. All while cruising at around 65 mph. A slight flutter, almost like "RSN" as discussed in the TIN sections except at higher speeds. Is that what you have?

folzag
03-08-2010, 09:56 PM
Can one of the symptoms of a failing bearing be a 'fluttering' or vibration when the van transitions from cruising at a given speed to going down an incline and using engine breaking?

FWIW, I never experienced that symptom.

One easy way to diagnose the bearings are to drive around a few miles, then put your hand on the bearing. If it is warm, you know they are bad. The other typical way to diagnose is by the sound. A dry bearing will sound like metal being machined, which is what is happening. It is a high frequency and the pitch will vary with the propeller shaft speed.

OrioN
03-08-2010, 10:04 PM
OrioN,
Thanks for asking this question. That is exactally a symptom I have. One example is going over an overpass on the interstate--on the back side of the overpass when zero (or close to it) throttle/torque is being applied to the drivetran. All while cruising at around 65 mph. A slight flutter, almost like "RSN" as discussed in the TIN sections except at higher speeds. Is that what you have?

YES!!

And the EXPERTS at the Langley Chrysler, BC just replaced the whole drive shaft, and while it did originally make a difference, it's now creeping back...

I originally asked them if the bearing that was installed at 5 degrees off angle was the issue, the proud techie said no...

Aqua Puttana
03-08-2010, 10:43 PM
...
One example is going over an overpass on the interstate--on the back side of the overpass when zero (or close to it) throttle/torque is being applied to the drivetrain. All while cruising at around 65 mph. A slight flutter, almost like "RSN" as discussed in the TIN sections except at higher speeds.
...
FWIW. This may not be relative to an NCV3 thread, but....

My 2004 T1N sometimes has a slight RSN under the same conditions going down a slight incline at about 43 mph or so. Not all the time, and not really even that noticeable, but it does happen. It stops immediately with a bit of throttle.

When I ran my transmission fluid beyond it's useful life I was getting symptoms which made me think I might have drive shaft or other drive line issues. I'm not saying you should change the tranny fluid, just that transmission symptoms may be capable of mimicking other problems. AP/vic

aeroshots
03-08-2010, 11:40 PM
Hmmmm? Wonder if we are broaching a new/different issue? I kind of think not, but. FWIW my vehicle has 14,000 miles and I've noticed this fludder/vibration since 9,500 miles--shortly after I purchased it. Mine will do it pretty much everytime the above conditions are met. When I first noticed it the first thing that came to mind was torque converter. I do not know why, but it sort of had that feel. I've tried to live with it, but this thread makes me rethink the issue.

aeroshots
03-08-2010, 11:53 PM
Well, lets think about this. :thinking: If a good non damaged bearing is out of alignment/tolerance it will function, and function, and function until wear sets in. Then, it seems to me, the wear/play could manifest itself as a slight vibration under certian conditions (described above). The vibration and range of conditions should increase as the wear/play increases until more extreme manifestations of the bad bearing (squeling) until complete failure. I don't know--I'm just saying......:hmmm:
A new bearing installed would function, and function, and function until.......

I have not worked my way under my rig yet to look at the subject bearing. From the photos it looks like rubber or some sort of flexible material is used as a dampener within its mount. This dampener would allow for misalignment to a degree. It would soften chatter from an out of tolerance bearing. Again, I am no expert just a guy trying to get by and enjoy my Sprinter. Others on this forum are the experts, for sure.

Someone correct my logic, please.

rayl
03-09-2010, 03:27 PM
Just reading these post, thought i would add about my propshaft problem, brought van new feb 09lwb 3.5 hi roof 311 cdi, after doing about 15,000 miles or so noticed a slight vibration at around 50 mph over the following few weeks i took note that this vibration came in at exactly 52 mph, and at every time i reached that speed then went out at around 60mph, vehicle went in for first service plus a check for vibration at said speed , had to go out with techy guy to get the vibration to show as he said could not find it, once i had replicated it for him he suspected propshaft and vehicle was booked back in for a week latter, a new propshaft was fitted and all was well, now, i am not sure what was relpaced as regards all shaft parts or hanger bearings as this was done under warranty. Now the van has 73,000 miles clocked up and have noticed on the odd occasion a loud squeal that comes and goes very quickly i'm not sure if its the propshaft and or bearings again but had a look underneath van and have noticed rust around front and rear hanger bearing and the yolk joint after the rear hanger bearing, vehicle is due back in for service in 3000 mile so this will be checked out at mercedes dealer, and i will let you know out come.
Just a little bit more info, the van runs every night on a set run and covers around 1,275 - 1,500 a week, it is carrying between 500kgs - 750kgs per run and i do not push the vehicle hard, ie, race through the gears, harsh breaking etc, plus keeping it around the 65 - 70 mph.

Altered Sprinter
03-09-2010, 09:54 PM
Rust can be fixed, but requires to be seasonally adjusted to-a non-Mercedes-maintenance, schedule.
Loud ,but sharp noise is your turbo,that cuts in a lower RPM usually caused by quick acceleration. under range 1800 to 2700rpm squawk lasts less than 1/2 of a second.
There are variations on the shaft on-outer bearings hanger design [From year of manufacture 2006 to 2009] plus rubber dampeners on the chassis rail between hanger and rail hanger,and rear shims on the back of the drive-shaft locking ring to prevent flex. or differential back-lash.
The latter may or may not apply to NAFTA vehicles as to European designs between 2 3 4 and 5 Tonne variants,of models from short wheel base through to dual wheel units and including cab over chassis models.

Daimler AG: reserves the right to change and or alter designs without notification.

There have been changes on the Outer Bearing Case with both NCV and sister Crafter;Sorry Chris:shifty: too many down under in Hobart but finding brand new ones is now a hard call.
Keep the drive-shaft clean and free of contamination and sealed with factory preservatives as a preventative measurement to assist against premature failure.
Richard

rayl
03-10-2010, 02:35 PM
Hi Richard, i have the same hanger bearings as in simon,s photo rust same area as well but slightly worse, my vehicle was brought from and will be serviced at the same dealer that chris works at, may be he would be kind enough to have a look at the shaft and bearings when it comes in maybe he could then tell if i have the updated bearings and shaft, plus, look up the data from the warranty change to see what was replaced and why

HappyFamilyVan
03-14-2010, 12:36 AM
FWIW, I never experienced that symptom.

One easy way to diagnose the bearings are to drive around a few miles, then put your hand on the bearing. If it is warm, you know they are bad. The other typical way to diagnose is by the sound. A dry bearing will sound like metal being machined, which is what is happening. It is a high frequency and the pitch will vary with the propeller shaft speed.


K...Now I am worried...I have the sound...not to bad and not constant...only while going uphill and at certain RPMS...however the shaft in front of the hanger...see arrow in pic...is "HOT" to the touch after driving a 20 miles at highway speeds...the rest of the shaft to cool...is this normal? Was about to go on 1000 mile trip into th booines...should I be worried?

folzag
03-14-2010, 01:41 AM
Actually, I did drive about a thousand miles on mine between first noticing the machining sound and getting the van in for repair. About 800 of the miles were highway miles from Portland to California and back. (It helped that above 40 mph the sound either went away or was unnoticeable above the road and wind noise.) And if memory serves, my shaft was noticeably warm, but not capital-HOT. Finally, I seem to recall reading on one of the other of many driveshaft bearing threads that ignoring the problem until it is more convenient to deal with is not going to cause additional problems.

Maybe one of the real experts will chime in, but until then I say if you need to make the trip, go for it. I did.

Altered Sprinter
03-14-2010, 03:04 AM
The heat issue on the front shaft was never ever thought about by myself so I'll take a trip to town and back and report back as I want to look at at a July 08 NCV demo vehicle and an August 09 NCV to see if the is a difference between the shims and rubber on the outer bearing cover.
Richard

Altered Sprinter
03-14-2010, 05:32 AM
This reply is for HappyFamilyVan.
Note: from a cold start to town and back, 20 minute trip the front shaft,that is the narrow neck connecting to the front bearing was hot as a cup off coffee . The bearing itself, was only warm.
21975
I did forget to take the macro lens:bash: sorry: as my intent was to photograph the front bearing in particular front,back side and how its mounted to the main chassis rail.
21976
Any color you want so long as it's White
:smilewink:
At the lot there were three NCV MWB low top 311Cdi manuals.
One was a fleet trade back My year 2006.
Buy it now $29.000 AU

NCV Dealer demo 2008
$56,600 drive away AU

NCV My year 2009 Euro 4 New
$59,600 drive away AU

All front bearing assembly's,bolt direct into chassis rail There is a variation as to bolt design one is the large Standard bolts and the latter the EU star bolts as one member has photographically shown.
Each has the shim spacers between the carrier and the chassis rail.

What I found was on the trade-back zero maintenance.
The front bearing catches a large amount of debris mostly a combination of carbon and oils.
The drive shaft flicks this between the floor of the van and left to right of the Floor pan ,it also builds up on the bearing.
:thumbdown:
It was noticeable that all saddle bars that support the drive shaft, in the event of a universal failure were as equally very dirty,those are not an issue.

No rust build up on the NCV 006 trade-back,so this is a U.S problem as to salt. or acid rain.
If you want I will show you how to keep them bearings clean, and rust free.
21977
Last photo apart from noticing our Vito's now have a 5year 200 hundred thousand full warranty as opposed to the NCV up until 2009 still carry the same warranty 200 thousand Kilometers or 3 years,
Think this will amuse some of the Lads a Fiat 500 on the lot; 19 grand, not a bad price either.
Oh notice my white paint reflecting it's gloss.
Rustless
:tongue:
Richard

folzag
03-14-2010, 07:21 PM
No rust build up on the NCV 006 trade-back,so this is a U.S problem as to salt. or acid rain.
If you want I will show you how to keep them bearings clean, and rust free."

I want. Thanks.

Keyland
03-15-2010, 09:49 PM
It supports the propeller shaft but it's not really in the center. It's mounted closer to the transmission than to the rear end

Mine fell just after 36k warranty expired, at least it's not very expensive, $140 online, $235 at the dealership

http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/index.cfm?action=getJointLocator&siteid=213693&chapter=&sectionids=23,0&groupid=10047&subgroupid=20112&componentid=60223&make=8&model=Sprinter&year=2007&catalogid=1&displayCatalogid=0

Where can I buy one?

Keyland
03-15-2010, 09:51 PM
Where can I buy a 2007 sprinter center bearing 68031835AA or an aftermarket one??

Aqua Puttana
03-16-2010, 12:00 AM
Where can I buy a 2007 sprinter center bearing 68031835AA or an aftermarket one??
I would check with Doktor A first. He's been very helpful here for many forum members. There are also other parts suppliers that help out here.

Personally I'm a bit torn. I have been dealing with my local Dodge dealership since 1974. On one hand I want to support businesses that support our forum, on the other hand keeping my local dealership around is a good thing too. That and I'm a sucker for good price on things like headlamp bulbs with free shipping from some internet suppliers. Sorry to go on, it's all so complicated. Check with Doktor A 412-366-6165. vic

gjvander
05-26-2010, 10:21 PM
Hi,

I have been reading this thread with great interest since my 2007 Sprinter (120k miles) has a drive train noise that disappears above 25 mph. I finally put it on jack stands tonight and confirmed that the noise is coming from the front hangar bearing.

I did some searching for the part and found this supplier:

http://www.driveshaftparts.com/center-supports/mercedes/dodge/cat_60.html

They are also on ebay, and it looks like they also have a branch in the UK.

Can anyone confirm that the parts are of decent quality? $45 vs $235 for OEM.

Regards,

Geo

pinelands
05-28-2010, 02:14 AM
My 07 sprinter see my post is going in tomorrow at 35989 for the center bearing failure . The dealer said they will be replacing the drive shaft and rear end seal as well because the drive shaft has been redesigned because of failure . I also had the guide on the trans replaced last week as i saw fluid all over the place.

gactive
05-29-2010, 08:15 PM
I tried telling my dealer that there might be issues beyond just the bearing. He said he's not aware of any other fix than replacing the bearing. How does your dealer know something that mine doesn't? Was there a TSB? Who's your dealer? Maybe they can share something with me to pass on to my dealer. Thanks

sprintguy
06-05-2010, 12:30 PM
You will all be happy to know that when I looked under an 2010 NCV3 (906) Sprinter the center bearing had the dust shields on both bearings :clapping: I guess that Mercedes is correcting past mistakes

If I have to replace a center bearing while at Mercedes I will report if the new ones come with the dust shield.


Carl

jdcaples
06-05-2010, 04:53 PM
You will all be happy to know that when I looked under an 2010 NCV3 (906) Sprinter the center bearing had the dust shields on both bearings :clapping: I guess that Mercedes is correcting past mistakes

If I have to replace a center bearing while at Mercedes I will report if the new ones come with the dust shield.


Carl

I think that was part of 2009's updated, standard equipment.

Checkout WIS regarding the inability to retrofit the new center bearing design to 2008/2007 Sprinters. As late as 3 months ago, it was very apparent that the 2009 Center Bearing was not compatible with older Sprinters and it was apparent that MB didn't redesign for the original NAFTA NCV3s.



-Jon

Chandlerazman
06-06-2010, 01:20 AM
I had mine replaced last week complete with both drive shafts on my '08. No dust sheilds and the bearings looked wimpy as the originals...

newrivermike
06-14-2011, 09:11 PM
Sitting here at the repair shop in Rapid City South Dakota. Had the carrier bearing replaced less than a year ago near home in West Virginia. The new one started squeeking when I was driving back from Arkansas on salty, snowy roads. Got progressively squeekier until this trip. It got louder and louder until it started to growl in the Badlands and we stopped for repair in Rapid City....

OK, I just read all 12 pages of posts and it seems like this is a common problem and it's also common that they don't really know how to deal with it. The guy here said at first that I might need to have a rebuilt driveshaft installed. Now they are struggling to find the part (hangar bearing). I wonder if it's OK to just keep driving on the bad bearing? I mean, is it actually bad, or just noisy? It got so loud and started to sound like grinding so I thought it best to stop. Is it all bark and no bite? this is going to be expensive to replace the bearing every 10,000 miles...

Graphite Dave
06-14-2011, 09:59 PM
Somewhere I printed out a Sprinter bulletin V-B-41.10/01a that says "The center support bearing without protective caps, which was previously described as noninterchangable, can now be retrofitted on a bearing with protective caps". "Only perform the retrofit once and where a customer has a complaint".
Parts kit for center support bearing without shim (2 piece propeller shaft) is part # A9064101781. Parts kit for center support bearing with shim (2 piece propeller shaft) is part # A9064101881.

I would replace the original with a properly designed American replacement driveshaft with relubable U-joints. They are available from several sources.

jdcaples
06-14-2011, 10:42 PM
Somewhere I printed out a Sprinter bulletin V-B-41.10/01a that says "The center support bearing without protective caps, which was previously described as noninterchangable, can now be retrofitted on a bearing with protective caps". "Only perform the retrofit once and where a customer has a complaint".


Parts kit for center support bearing without shim (2 piece propeller shaft) is part # A9064101781. Parts kit for center support bearing with shim (2 piece propeller shaft) is part # A9064101881.

I would replace the original with a properly designed American replacement driveshaft with relubable U-joints. They are available from several sources.

Dave cites an MB service bulletin and MB part numbers.

The reader should note that Dodge dealerships have no access to MB service bulletins and - as such - are under no obligation to honor the letter of MB service bulletin law.


-Jon

flman
06-25-2011, 01:22 PM
Here is a T1N for sale with a failed drive shaft The guibo/flex disc between the tranny and shaft shredded. It pretty much killed this van. A good reason not to put off drive shaft repairs.

http://dodgeforum.com/forum/dodge-sprinter/295084-value-of-this-sprinter.html

shanemac
06-28-2011, 04:50 AM
I suspect my center hanger bearing is near the end of its life, i noticed europarts shows the hanger bearing separate from the drive shaft, i would guess the dodge dealers only install the complete drive shaft? For me the hard part has always been convincing the dealer there is a problem unless its catastrophic failure they brush me off. To me i can not visualize the dissemble procedure to change just the hanger bearing.

http://store.europarts-sd.com/productimages/g4/9064100281.JPG

SPRINTERUK
06-28-2011, 12:29 PM
hi shane
using your vin number off your data card
the centre bearing to suit your sprinter a9064101881 uk cost £134.00

regards
chris

NBB
06-28-2011, 03:11 PM
Mine failed @ ~17k. I had maybe 20-30 miles total on dirt roads. I went to MB dealer with a service bulletin Jon posted to another thread detailing how to retrofit the new covered bearings to a 2007-2008 driveshaft. The work was done under warranty.

Graphite Dave
06-28-2011, 03:56 PM
NBB Could you post enough information that others can request the same modification. Could you list the new part numbers used for the sealed hanger bearing? Looks like we will all need to have this done. If Mercedes supported these vehicles, there would be a recall. Maybe they are planning to wait until someone is killed.

dukepilot
06-28-2011, 04:03 PM
Here is the Mercedes Sprinter Bulletin posted a while back by jdcaples. It includes the part numbers for the bearing.

bcislander
08-22-2011, 05:24 AM
I read through this thread a while ago, but it just 'dawned' on me that my 2007 Sprinter has 2 driveshaft support bearings to support the 3-part driveshaft. Most(All?) of the posts imply there is just one support bearing.

I assume that my van has the extra shaft & support bearing because it has a 170" wheelbase. So far so good, no unusual noises from the bearings at 28,000km, although there is some vibration at ~80km/h, which could be wheel balance issues.

Any opinions if the different support bearing configuration could lead to longer, shorter or no difference in support bearing life?

fishermunn
08-29-2011, 12:52 PM
My 2008 170" 3500 with 75k just had the front bearing replaced along with the seal for the pinion gear on the differential. I noticed some deteration of the rubber mounting on the center bearing support.
I brought it in for service concerning my air conditioner and asked the dealership to visually inspect the carrier bearing.
The center bearing was considered to be fine but the front bearing made noise and I was advised to replace it. There was a small weeping of fluid from the pinion seal and I thought it wise to replace it while the drive shaft was removed.
I have never had any issues with drive shaft bearings on any of the six previous dually pickups we have owned over the last 30 years. This is the first truck with a three part drive shaft we have owned. I am sure proper alignment is critical to long wear.

santafespecialties
01-02-2013, 06:27 AM
About to replace the second one and less than 50k, very lightly loaded 2500, '08 van. Squirt it with WD every 2-3 hundred miles and keeps it quite...tried chain lube but must be too thick to penetrate. Terrible design/bearing, considering opening up back side of bearing to get some of the chain lube in there...

Aqua Puttana
01-02-2013, 11:47 AM
About to replace the second one and less than 50k, very lightly loaded 2500, '08 van. Squirt it with WD every 2-3 hundred miles and keeps it quite...tried chain lube but must be too thick to penetrate. Terrible design/bearing, considering opening up back side of bearing to get some of the chain lube in there...
I once considered spraying my U-joints and bearings with WD-40 or other light lube. My thought was that it would keep the seals lubed a bit and maybe extend the life. After further consideration I decided that the external lube might attract and hold more fine road dirt which could work its way into the assemblies. That would work against what I was trying accomplish. As I'm not sure of the consequences I decided to not do anything. Just some thoughts, nothing scientific. vic

piper1
01-02-2013, 03:21 PM
I'd avoid WD40..it is a very thin, solvent based lube. Driveline components are under a lot of stress and need a heavy grease that has EP (extreme pressure) qualities.

The updated bearing, if installed properly and without bending the drive shaft, should last a fairly long time. If you are experiencing repeated failures with the new design you should check the runout or wobble of the drive shaft. You need a dial indicator to measure it properly. A Sprinter drive shaft is surprisingly easy to bend if a tech removes the bearing the wrong way.

Mrdi
01-04-2013, 12:23 AM
The center bearing on my 2008 144 cargo was replaced with the newer dust shield center bearing in September of 2012 by MB in Anaheim Ca, under warranty.

See this thread:
http://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=8645

Red Eye
02-04-2013, 02:08 AM
The longevity of this thread is testament to continuing problems with the poor carrier bearings in the Sprinter Vans.

Approximately a year ago, I bought my used 2008 Sprinter [108,000km] that within a month had a failed center carrier bearing.

The dealer reluctantly replaced the carrier bearings.

Guess what...Now 20,000km later my the rear carrier bearing is failing again.

(for those of you who have not yet experienced this failure, initially the sound is almost like a turbo whine, then after a few days later begins to sound worse, then starts to shriek to the point of not being able to hear anything else, engine, radio or conversation)

This red arrow in this 50107photo shows the protective cap, which is an upgrade from the original Sprinters which had no protection. This cap rotates with the driveshaft and prevents road debris from striking the seal.

The blue arrow in this photo 50108 shows the narrow gap where the seal is damaged, and you can actually see some debris lodged here.

Did you see? They put the carrier hangar in BACKWARDS!!! The protective cap is on the backside, where there is no road debris ever going to impact it.

And the delicate seal lip is being exposed to salt, road sand, slush etc....

No wonder the bearing failed in only a year!

I will be heading back to the Mercedes dealer to see how they will take care of this.

Will keep you posted....

shanemac
02-04-2013, 02:49 AM
Should be two spacers, mine is installed like yours.

http://sprinter-source.com/forum/showpost.php?p=154197&postcount=9

Red Eye
02-04-2013, 03:17 PM
Thank you Shanemac for your pictures.

The way they did yours makes more sense having two protective caps. In that way, the seals are protected both front and back.

Plus if a mechanic is half asleep, he won't have to decide which side to put it on.

I can't imagine why they would leave a bearing exposed like they did to mine.

I will be going back to the dealer tomorrow morning.

jdcaples
02-04-2013, 04:17 PM
I can't imagine why they would leave a bearing exposed like they did to mine.


... like they did to yours? You mean like they did to every single US/Canadian Sprinter built for model year 2007-2008.


For model years 2007-2008, the original design was like that.
For model year 2009, it was redesigned with dust protection.
For model years 2007-2008, the new bearing design for 2009s wasn't allowed to be put on the older Sprinters. Both Dodge and - after 2010 - MB dealerships were told "don't put the new bearing on older Sprinters."

Sometime later - I think mid-2010 to early 2011 - that embargo was lifted and all NCV3s in the US and Canada are allowed to have the newer design fitted.

-Jon

PS: I'm still running my original carrier bearing.

Red Eye
02-04-2013, 04:57 PM
Thank you jdcaples for providing the historical changing policy with respect to the driveshaft problems.

This information will be useful when I meet at the dealer tomorrow.

jdcaples
02-04-2013, 05:30 PM
Thank you jdcaples for providing the historical changing policy with respect to the driveshaft problems.

This information will be useful when I meet at the dealer tomorrow.

Take the PDF attached to the first (and only) posting in this thread
http://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=13223
with you...

-Jon

sprintguy
02-04-2013, 08:05 PM
There seems to be a couple of part numbers missing on the PDF file so here are the all the variables , note that if the bearings are ordered off EPC at the dealer the newer style bearings will be ordered but if you have a 3 piece shaft and you are doing the front most bearing you will not receive the proper dust caps and retaining ring.

A 906 410 15 81 - kit for 1 piece shaft without shim (rear most shaft)
A 906 410 16 81- kit for 1 piece shaft with shim
A 906 410 17 81 - kit for 2 piece shaft without shim (forward most shaft set) .
A 906 410 18 81 - kit for 2 piece shaft with shim.

Guys (and Ladies) note : you have to visually inspect the vehicle to see if it has a shim or not between the bearing and the body..

on another note ; Make sure if you have 2 bearings on the under side that they are replaced as a set ! Even if its under warranty.. push the issue please. the forward bearing does also fail shortly after the rear most bearing fails... and be sure they are aligned and orientated properly.

Carl

jdcaples
02-04-2013, 08:24 PM
There seems to be a couple of part numbers missing on the PDF <snip>

Thanks, Carl. Do you know if the document is current, or has it been replaced in SprinterWIS?

sprintguy
02-04-2013, 08:47 PM
document # SI41.10-D-0004A

This is a WIS Service Info document , not a Bulletin. it is dated 20.7.10 , so yes pretty current

This section in WIS is usually very current , and accurate.. Just a side note : any recall or bulletin is in the WIS system , it just takes a bit of searching to find if you are not used to using it. Tip : use the table of contents tab to find all the available info (you are a transporter in that section )



Carl

Red Eye
02-04-2013, 09:08 PM
jdcaples, there is more background to this story.....

The 2008 Sprinter was purchased in October of 2011.

The vehicle had a faint driveline noise when I bought it, but I mistakenly thought it would be a simple and cheap job to replace a U-joint or steady bearing (center bearing)

I was informed by Mercedes Parts person, that components could not be ordered individually, that I needed to purchase an entire $3500 driveshaft with all new components complete.

I had other issues with the vehicle, like discovering undisclosed damaged that seemed more pressing than a driveshaft at the time.

It was back then, that I saw your original posting of October 18, 2010. And yes, I took the information that you posted in the PDF file and through a frustrating time of delays, taking 7 weeks of meetings and waiting, the dealer reluctantly replaced the noisy bearing. Reference: my original issue ( http://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=18690&page=4

Thank you for your help a year ago.

However in fairness, I must take some responsibility with this, in that I did not inspect the work done at the time.

Who could have guessed that they would have put the bearing/protective cap orientation incorrectly.

Or as shanemac pointed out, there in fact should be two protective caps, not one, then orientation wouldn't matter.

Red Eye
02-04-2013, 09:19 PM
I have printed out JDcaple's PDF and sprintguy's parts reference #s for my trip to town tomorrow. Thank you to both!!!

Chandlerazman
02-04-2013, 10:11 PM
Can a driveshaft shop build a shaft/bearing assy for our Sprinters? I'm sure it would be way less expensive than $3500.

wmlog
02-04-2013, 10:32 PM
Contact Drive Shaft of Tulsa, OK. A new complete 3-piece shaft (170" WB) with grease fittings and serviceable u-joints will cost around $900 delivered. Includes 3 shaft sections and 2 carrier bearings - ready to install with a few tools.

There are other shops out there that will build one for you, also.

Red Eye
02-06-2013, 02:17 AM
I am back from the Mercedes dealer.

The service man at the desk was courteous, listened to my story, looked at the pictures, and jdcaples document.

Unfortunately, they couldn't find anything on their computer to indicate that the center bearing was changed by them a year ago.

The service manager could make a decision as to whether or not this would be covered under warranty.

They also did not want to discuss that the hangar bearing was put in facing the wrong way.

The service guy said that basically if the center bearing lasted an entire year, then that was an acceptable service life to him.

I disagreed.

As a solution, they said they would have to get direction from their General Manager.

General Manager was unavailable today.

In the meantime, they have offered to take a look at the bearing. (I suppose to confirm my findings)

So back tomorrow for them to put the Sprinter on their hoist.

Will keep you posted....

Red Eye
02-07-2013, 01:14 AM
I met with the General Manager today. A short meeting. He listened to my story. Next he entered the VIN into the computer.

Then he said he would do the repair on warranty, will get the parts ordered, and he expects to have them middle of next week.

He then apologized for the problems.

Good attitude.

He could have ruled either way.

He is making it right for us.

Will keep you posted.

Red Eye
02-26-2013, 05:58 PM
Here is an update for you.

Now 20 days later, since my last post, the noisy bearing has been replaced.

Driving 20 days with that loud screeching noise almost drove me crazy.

Total annoying time with my faulty steady bearing issue, 7 weeks a year ago and another 4 weeks this year = 11 weeks of annoyance when they could have repaired it properly in an hour a year ago.

Oh, and to add insult to injury. I brought the van in yesterday at 0830hrs. They said a coule of hours max. So I kind of hung around, then checked back and you know how it goes....

They got it off the hoist at quitting time 1800hrs.

Turns out that their master mechanic ran into a problem trying to install the new bearing on the front hanger instead of the rear.

Sometimes you just have to laugh.

Mrdi
02-26-2013, 06:28 PM
So....
Did you check on the Transit availability?

Pule'sLTV
06-27-2013, 08:08 PM
Have 2008 LT with same symptoms. Sounded like brake noise,ie. shrieking at lower speeds. Was coming from drive shaft forward bearing . Seal looked like it had gotten hot. Lubed it with spray lube & noise went away. Bearing seems tight but I will have mechanic look at it.

ajm3s
06-28-2013, 12:56 AM
I had all the same symptoms and just had bearings replaced at local Mercedes dealership two weeks ago. And all is well. I was reluctant to send for repair service to local Dodge dealership, so I opted to go to Shrewsbury Mercedes. I made the decision based on this sprinter forum and the reputation of Carl (sprintguy) who works at this dealership.

I recommend all those who wish to understand and work on mechanical and maintenance to bookmark this website. It is the best!

Good Luck.

manwithgun
06-28-2013, 04:31 AM
My 2007 was squalling like a soprano goose when I acquired it. I carefully pried away the original dust seal, flushed, and repacked the bearing with CV joint grease and snapped the seal back into place. Been problem free for the past 1500 miles.

Nhuskys
08-23-2013, 02:28 AM
'08 3500 144, with 185,000 miles. The bearing is making noise, rubber is breaking down and now get a "klack" in driveline. I just ordered bearing from M-B dealer, $245 ($305 from Dodge). I would have ordered from Europarts, but need it fixed now. Do I have to drop the entire prop shaft to swap the bearing out. Should I call the M-B dealer and check for warranty fix?

sailquik
08-23-2013, 02:38 AM
Yes, you need to remove the entire driveshaft, and getting the old bearing off/new bearing on, is best done with some sort of press.
A 185,000 miles on a 2008? What warranty were you thinking might still be in effect?
New car warranty was 30 K I believe....Emissions warranty was 85k or 100K and about 5 years.
You are well beyond those mileages.
Might be good to have the dealer change the bearing for you.
They have all the4 special tools, press sleeves, pullers, etc. to make it
easy as well as doing a first rate job.
Roger

Nhuskys
08-23-2013, 02:47 AM
Roger,
The only reason I mentioned warranty is, as I quickly ripped through 15 pages of posts.... I saw a lot of '08's and thought I saw mention of a M-B service bulletin, that still applied to them, with the mention that Dodge dealers couldn't see it. I may have misunderstood that, in my haste.

I have access to the tools to do the job.....
Norman

sailquik
08-23-2013, 03:03 AM
Norman,
If you can dig up the service bulletin, and find a Dodge or Mercedes Dealer to honor it, I say
go for it.
If you have the tools, pull the shaft, press the old bearing off, and the new one on, reinstall the shaft.
I do believe that you are supposed to replace the trilobular bolts on both end. They are really one use
bolts.
Roger

Red Eye
08-23-2013, 04:12 PM
nhusky, if your failing bearing does not have a metal deflector shield, the dealer should change it on warranty.

They changed mine on warranty then it failed a year later. It had been installed backwards (with the deflector shield to the back), so with no argument, they replaced it once again.

I believe there is a bulletin somewhere (either mercedes or dodge) that instructs dealers to change these (only one time) for customers with problems.

wiartonallan
12-20-2013, 11:51 PM
What is the ultimate fail symptom? Squealing or catastrophic failure of the the drive shaft? I just removed my floor and can now hear a noise which I am pretty sure will be from the hanger bearing. I intend to lube the bearing if possible and see if the noise changes.

OrioN
12-20-2013, 11:57 PM
What is the ultimate fail symptom?

Extreme vibration during the transition from acceleration to deceleration forces, as the shaft tries to stop fluttering. NOT GOOD FOR JOINTS AND OTHER SEALS.

Drive-By Cycles
01-24-2014, 10:22 PM
My front bearing has been squealing for a few months and started getting worse so I brought it to the dealer. They confirmed it was the bearing and ordered two new ones. When the parts showed up they said the front assembly wasn't the same as what was on there and was identical to what was on the rear. They put a call in to Gemany and were told to use the same rear bearing assembly in the front. Does this sound right to you guys?
It's on a 2007. They also mentioned that mine has a 3 piece driveshaft in place of the normal 2 piece but they have seen them before :idunno:

4wheels
01-25-2014, 05:14 AM
A 3 piece driveshaft ? :idunno:
Picture?

mywildstove
04-10-2014, 07:11 AM
I've gotta whine in my 08 144" WB between 5-20mph. Thought it was the tranny at first. One shop even tried to get me to replace the tranny for $4500. The dealership says it's the carrier bearing. Called a few MB dealers and mentioned the bulletin, but no one wants to replace it as a recall. Only 46K miles and just outa warranty. Doh! Looks like I'm out $800-1500 bucks, unless I can figure out a way to sneak some lube in there with a grease syringe or something. Still trying to figure out if there's an inner seal behind the outer seal.

Also, something no one else seems to be talking about is whether or not they need the replacement bearing with the shim or not. Apparently, there's two versions and it's impossible to know which you have until you remove the old one. Which means, waiting 1-5 days for the new part to arrive while the vehicle is disassembled.

Been researching for hours, time to call it a night.

manwithgun
04-10-2014, 09:01 PM
, unless I can figure out a way to sneak some lube in there with a grease syringe or something. Still trying to figure out if there's an inner seal behind the outer seal.

As mentioned above, I was able to use a tiny flat head screwdriver blade to carefully pry open the dust shield and repack with grease. The tip of box knife may help to pull up the outside edge of the seal/shield. Just be easy with it as its rubber backed and quite malleable. Of course, I only consider this a temporary repair but it may work for a year or three...

awaywego
04-11-2014, 12:07 AM
Manwithgun, I wasn't sure you were posting anymore...glad that you chimed in. Is it possible at all for you to post pics of the seal that you pried? Having read your posts I tried to slip under and pry the seal. Seemed like its outermost edge was behind a metal ring and I wasn't able to pry it off. Shall I try poking it with a really fine gauge needle held in the jaws of a wrench and pry? I'd like to try this sophisticated fix so pics would help a lot. Thanks

manwithgun
04-11-2014, 01:37 PM
The van is across town so I can't post any pictures now. Mine is an 07 and I don't remember anything unique about the bearing. Maybe mine was pre-update but I believe it's just an inner and outer race, and a dust shield that is pressed on. If my memory stays with me, I'll crawl under it this afternoon and snap a pic.

Edit- Do you have access to both sides of the bearing? I can't remember how the bearing fits into the carrier. Maybe if you posted a pic of what you're dealing with I could comment sooner.

If your bearing looks like the one in this post (pic#1), then it's the black ring that you should be able to pry out.
http://sprinter-source.com/forum/showthread.php?t=17037
Mine does not have the updated rings/washers so the bearing is exposed (like pic#1).

It's not meant to be serviceable so if you can't easily get the outside lip unseated, you may have to use your chosen tool and some pressure to deform the pliable shield to create a gap in order to remove it. Then do your best to flatten it out once removed. I endorse none of this, simply stating one of many options.

mywildstove
04-11-2014, 05:57 PM
Yesterday the van started making the whine noise at higher speeds (30-40mph) in addition to the lower speeds (5-20mph).

Today, I tried using a medical syringe to squirt some grease in there, but I don't think the needle make it past the crevasse in the seal. Then, I sprayed some heavy lithium grease on it and it's not making any noise. I know others have used oil/wd40 and it caused a major freeze down the road. Any thoughts if the lithium grease is safer?

Manwithgun, did you pop off the seal without lowering the drive shaft? Once the seal is off was it possible to change any damaged bearings?

Aqua Puttana
04-11-2014, 06:25 PM
... Then, I sprayed some heavy lithium grease on it and it's not making any noise. I know others have used oil/wd40 and it caused a major freeze down the road. Any thoughts if the lithium grease is safer?
Light oil or WD40 would tend to wash out or dilute the existing grease. Lithium grease would be better, but any grease which sprays through a tube will likely be thin and not have the needed properties.

In my opinion some type of grease specific to wheel bearings would be best. Putting the grease where it is needed is also preferred as long as the seal is removed and re-installed without damage as Manwithagun did. Maybe your needled grease finally worked into where it quieted things down?

... Manwithgun, did you pop off the seal without lowering the drive shaft? Once the seal is off was it possible to change any damaged bearings?
Popping the seal off will not allow bearings to be changed. It is not a retainer. It just keeps the grease in and the dirt out.

vic

manwithgun
04-11-2014, 07:47 PM
Light oil or WD40 would tend to wash out or dilute the existing grease. Lithium grease would be better, but any grease which sprays through a tube will likely be thin and not have the needed properties.

In my opinion some type of grease specific to wheel bearings would be best. Putting the grease where it is needed is also preferred as long as the seal is removed and re-installed without damage as Manwithagun did. Maybe your needled grease finally worked into where it quieted things down?


Popping the seal off will not allow bearings to be changed. It is not a retainer. It just keeps the grease in and the dirt out.

vic

vic covered everything that I would have said.... I used some Valvoline synthetic wheel bearing/cv joint grease that I had laying around. Without the updated press-fit flange/washer/debris shield on mine, it was quite simple to repack.

mywildstove
04-11-2014, 08:30 PM
Thanks for the quick feedback Vic and Man. I'm pretty sure it's the spray lithium that stopped the noise, not the needle grease. I just hope the spray didn't wash too much of the original grease out. Tomorrow's 100 mile drive will be a better performance test.

manwithgun
04-11-2014, 10:16 PM
. I'm pretty sure it's the spray lithium that stopped the noise

If you're talking about the stuff in an aerosol can, I wouldn't put much faith into it being a long term fix. That stuff uses a solvent as a carrier that may flush out some of the remaining "good" grease and I don't believe it's got the right properties for the application. Wheel bearing grease is usually fortified with molly and has a high resistance to pressure and heat so it won't liquify and fling out. If you're trying to save a few hundred dollars plus labor, I'd at least spend the $5 and 5 minutes to properly repack the bearing. If you've got the debris shield to contend with, it may be a bit more work but I worry that the lithium quick fix sets a precedent on this forum and then leaves someone stranded on the road with a larger problem. This is all just opinion and theory, of course... :thumbup:

Aqua Puttana
04-11-2014, 10:42 PM
If you're talking about the stuff in an aerosol can, I wouldn't put much faith into it being a long term fix. That stuff uses a solvent as a carrier that may flush out some of the remaining "good" grease and I don't believe it's got the right properties for the application. Wheel bearing grease is usually fortified with molly and has a high resistance to pressure and heat so it won't liquify and fling out. If you're trying to save a few hundred dollars plus labor, I'd at least spend the $5 and 5 minutes to properly repack the bearing. If you've got the debris shield to contend with, it may be a bit more work but I worry that the lithium quick fix sets a precedent on this forum and then leaves someone stranded on the road with a larger problem. This is all just opinion and theory, of course... :thumbup:
I agree.

I'm surprised that the spray grease would penetrate the seal enough to actually reach the bearings. The seal is good enough to keep water out. WD40 might be thin enough to work in.

Some questions.

Did the WD40 applied by others really accelerate the failure?

I presume the spray lube was applied because there was noise. Noise often indicates that failure is coming. Maybe the bearing would have failed regardless of the WD40. :idunno:

Did the needled grease work in?

If the seal holds out water, then it likely would hold back lithium grease.

This is all just opinion and theory, of course... :thumbup:

vic

Pule'sLTV
11-12-2014, 11:19 PM
Light oil or WD40 would tend to wash out or dilute the existing grease. Lithium grease would be better, but any grease which sprays through a tube will likely be thin and not have the needed properties.

In my opinion some type of grease specific to wheel bearings would be best. Putting the grease where it is needed is also preferred as long as the seal is removed and re-installed without damage as Manwithagun did. Maybe your needled grease finally worked into where it quieted things down?


Popping the seal off will not allow bearings to be changed. It is not a retainer. It just keeps the grease in and the dirt out.

vicHaven't posted before. hope I'm doing this correctly. In my case the noise apparently was coming from the seal. It started at low speed only, but got worse & the rubber got hot and warped away from prop shaft. I lubed with white Lithium spray & noise went away for a few hundred miles then returned. I now lube , especially the forward bearing, before long trips. Have made two annual trips to Homer Alaska and returned to southern Arizona with out any problems. Just had MB dealer check bearings on prop shaft & they say they [2] are showing no wear movement. 2008 Leisure Travel 22 ft. 2500 V6 . they do need a grease fitting. Pule

mywildstove
11-13-2014, 12:52 AM
Hi All,

I just wanted to provide an update. It's been about 7 months and I've put about 12K miles on the van since I used the spray lithium grease on the outside of the seal (I never popped it off) and I still don't feel any vibration.

CJPJ
11-13-2014, 01:56 AM
Hi All,
I just wanted to provide an update. It's been about 7 months and I've put about 12K miles on the van since I used the spray lithium grease on the outside of the seal (I never popped it off) and I still don't feel any vibration.
Brings back theory that the noise comes from the dust cover.
:2cents:

...I'M NOT CONVINCED that the cause of all hanger bearing noise is from a worn out bearing

I'm suggesting; that in my case the bearing noise came from the rubber isolators sheet metal dust-ring cover that is in close proximity to the spinning bearings, ... when enough dirt/dust creates contact that friction causes the noises.

There never was any vibration or heat to indicate a dry failing bearing, only a intermitted noise/sound that progressed relatively louder...over months of time. Not what I would expect from a dry failing bearing!

The reasoning; (I lived with the noise for months), ... and many times I crawled under the van and put my hands on the bearings, checking the bearings for HEAT but never found either Bearing to even be warm, and couldn't detect any slop in them.
The Drive-shaft would be warm from drawing heat out of the Transmission, but that heat wasn't transferred through the Rubber isolators and the Bearing remained realitvely cool.


:After (they put ears on it) MB replaced the rear most bearing which solved the noise.

btw ... I whish ... I'd asked to keep the old bearing for a examination autopsy!


WD 40 worked on mine also :thinking: I have had the noise for about 30,000 mi now have 137,000

Red eyes photo and put the arrow
50107

CJPJ
11-14-2014, 05:39 PM
Brings back theory that the noise comes from the dust cover.
:2cents:






Red eyes photo and put the arrow
50107
:smilewink: