Espar and dual battery question

JohnForde

New member
My goal is really to get heat out of my Espar for 8 hours ( 4 cycles of the heater) I just need the van to start again in the morning. Also, I don't mind running a high idle half hour in the middle of the night if I need to.

I have installed a battery isolator and a used deep cycle battery (may need replacing) under my right seat. The most important electrical loads (espar and water pump) are still on the starting battery under the hood. I need to get those loads transfered to the deep cycle battery before it gets too cold. As I have been thinking about how to do this, I wondered, might it be easier to just switch the batteries, putting the starting battery under the seat and the deep cycle battery under the hood, then switching the cables at the isolator?

Thoughts?
 

mean_in_green

>2,000,000m in MB vans
Good strategy to move the feed although I've used my heater for extended and repeated cycles without being unable to start on main battery (I only have one battery).

I only mention it because if you are also not averse to a brief night time idle then you could save yourself a job particularly if your night time heating is just an occasional requirement. That is my scenario too and it copes fine, I fitted an accurate LED battery charge indicator which confirms battery state too.
 

Boater

New member
Starting needs a heavy duty (thick, high amperage) cable, I would think it would be easier to re-route the heater and pump cables. Bear in mind if you increase the length of the starter cable you will increase the resistance and cause a voltage drop, meaning you need to upsize the cable as you lengthen it to maintain correct voltage to starter. On the other hand you might find an alternative route which is no longer than the original, so it's one to think about, not necessarily a game stopper.

My D2 is wired directly (through a fuse) to my leisure battery, as is my invertor, so can still be used when the rest of the circuits are off (this is mainly due to location of the charge panel away from the battery, and heater and invertor near it), the leisure battery is separated from the starter system by a relay, and the charge panel (which can be left connected in error, hence the relay). I really ought to fit a master isolator to the leisure battery - re-wiring has taken a back seat to engien and body work recenty!
 

Amboman

New member
I wouldn't do any cable modification but would carry one of these or similar and
sleep better at night.

 

JohnForde

New member
My D2 is wired directly (through a fuse) to my leisure battery, as is my invertor, so can still be used when the rest of the circuits are off
This rewiring of the D2, how many wires is it? I am still trying to find out the relative amperage draw of the D2 as well as the draw of the coolant pump. I suspect the coolant pump may be the majority (3-5 amps?) I may try to switch the load of the coolant pump first. Does anyone kknow these two amperages: water pump and D2?
 

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