Start error !!

booger 746

New member
Woke up early this morning to do some mx racing. Pulled my 2005 sprinter out of the barn with no issues. Fired right up like always. Drove it 300 feet to the house to fill my cooler, turned van off.

Got my things done, got in van to leave went to start. Turned key all lights lit as normal. Waited for glow plug light to go out, turned key, and lost all power. Dash lights went dead, door was open/dome light went out. No juice !!

This lasted 5 seconds, then, everything came back on, all power/lights everything, on.

Went on ahead to start and got "start error" on display. I'm think'n I had dirty terminals. Pulled and cleaned. Still start error. Now thinking low battery, got charger out with boost and still start error.

I had messed with this for 30 min now so my racing was done. I wasn't gonna drive it 4 hrs away with it acting like this.

Got on this forum and searched for an answer.

This is what I have done and still have "start error"

Cleaned every terminal I can find, including everything on firewall.

Tested battery, shows 12.5 volts

Unhooked negative terminal for 1 hr to reset computer.

Tapped starter with mallet

Replaced shifter in all position

Pulled #7 fuse, all is good

Pulled top fuse in stack under seat, all good

Cycled key numerous times in ignition

Cycled lock/unlock buttons on remote numerous times

Popped remote

Popped the top of dash

What else is left ??? I have missed my race, and still have start error. Crappy day :bash:

Help,help,help

I do not know what else to do
 

220629

Well-known member
Sounds like you've done pretty much all I would think to try.

With everything going dead that would point to a bad/loose coonection as you pointed out so that may have been your original problem. The "Start Error" indicates that you are not getting beyond the SKREEM security check. That of itself will inhibit the start circuit because when you turn the key what is happening is you are really asking the computer to "Please check for problems and start my engine if everything is OK".

Some background on the SKREEM.

084CanBusExchgSKREEM.jpg

087Skreem5.jpg

088Skreem5.jpg

089SkreemKeyFob5.jpg

090SkreemBlockDiag5.jpg
 

talkinghorse43

Well-known member
I believe that message means the SKREEM is not satisfied. Maybe you already know the following from the '03 service manual:

"The Sentry Key’s transponder is within the range
of the SKREEM’s transponder ring when it is
inserted into the ignition lock cylinder. When the
ignition switch is turned to the ON position, the
SKREEM communicates with the Sentry Key via a
radio frequency (RF) signal. The SKREEM determines
if a valid key is present based on the information
it receives from the Sentry Key. If a valid key is
detected, that fact is communicated to the Engine
Control Module (ECM) via the Controller Area Network
(CAN) data bus and the vehicle is allowed to
continue running. If an invalid key is received by the
ECM or no status at all is communicated, the vehicle
will stall after two (2) seconds of running. The indicator
light will be flashing at this point. The Sentry
Key’s transponder can not be repaired. If it is faulty
or damaged, it must be replaced.
Common communication problems:
² Two transponder keys too close together.
² Speed Pass too close to transponder key.
Solid indicator that there is a system failure.
² Loss of ECM communication.
² Failed transponder ring circuit."

I'd get the van scanned for codes with a Sprinter-compatible scanner.
 

220629

Well-known member
091SkreemOperation5.jpg

092SkreemSkim5.jpg

093SkreemAnt5.jpg

094SkreemRKE5.jpg

Have you tried another key?

Now the bad news. Doktor A has indicated that not replacing a weak battery and subsequent jump starting SEEMS to be related to SKREEM module failures. A bad connection and resulting voltage spikes may have affected the SKREEM module. Your original problem may be cured by what you checked/cleaned and the Start Error is a new problem. That is completely a guess and just for information to you. I hope that it is not the case.

There is a thread which outlines a step by step procedure for measuring voltages and checking the SKREEM basics. I didn't search for it. Good luck. vic
 

booger 746

New member
I found that thread @ 4:30 this morning. I've read everything I can find, done everything I've read. Still the same result.

I'm sure the skreem modual is the issue. Looks like a trip to the dealer.

Now getting the van there might be another issue with it not starting.

Is it safe to tow/pull this thing in neutral if we keep speeds down ????

Dealer is about 40 miles away, wanting to tow on back roads.

Am I crazy ..........
 

220629

Well-known member
From my "dead" 2004 Operator Manual section 6.

If the Engine is Damaged
For towing distances up to 30 miles (about 50 km)
• Shift selector lever to "N" position.
• Do not exceed a towing speed of 30 mph (50 km/h).
For towing distances greater than 30 miles (about
50 km)
• Remove the propeller shafts leading to the drive
axles.
The vehicle can be towed without restriction.
If the Transmission is Damaged
• Remove the propeller shafts leading to the drive axles

They depend upon the residual lubrication for the transmission parts because the transmission pump is driven by the engine shaft. Towing too far can ruin bearings, etc.

You should disconnect the driveshaft completely, or at the differential and somehow support it up and away from the connection. Using a tow dolly? Otherwise steering will be very difficult without the power assist. Perhaps next to impossible. Good luck. vic
 

hulagun

Haulin' A** since 1974
For me the big clue is the initial "lights all went out" occurrence. If this was a SKREEM issue alone, would that have happened? As Vic said, it may be two different things.

For towing, get a flat bed tow platform truck to move it. If you are far from town, you can tow it a few miles closer to meet the flat bed (but as Vic mentioned you are risking your drive train). Hope you have road service coverage which can take some hurt out of the towing fees.

I race mc's too (30+ years now) and part of my program is premium auto club coverage which covers towing my Sprinter and covers me for "travel-related" medical transport / flight insurance. Not that expensive but if I ever need it, it will be very expensive not to have. :wtf:

Also, sorry to hit you when you are down but "only one key" is a bad gamble, don't you think?

Good luck, hope you figure the trouble out. :cheers:
 

glasseye

Well-known member
If you're sure it's a SKREEM issue, you might give SOS Diagnostics a call. They solved my SKREEM problems by re-programming it. You'll probably have to send them both the SKREEM and the ECU, but it'd be cheaper than a tow and the dealer costs.
 

booger 746

New member
Van is back, and run'n !!

I have tow insurance (to my surprise:clapping:) tow cost $0.00:cheers:

Towed van to Mercedes of Kansas city.

They wanted to try a new key, since I only had one. No luck.

Ended up being the transmitter (I guess the SKREEM module)

Had a long talk with the service manager about my van. This is the second time in 2 months it's been in the shop (transmission sensor).

Was look'n at the new sprinters and he said stay away from them. Said they are not near the van I have.
Costs more to keep on the road, fuel milage is worse. Lots of different things. Said that I need to keep mine till the wheels fall off basically.

Anyway, thanks all for the help.
 

220629

Well-known member
...
Ended up being the transmitter (I guess the SKREEM module)

...
Anyway, thanks all for the help.
The SKREEM is what was unhappy and set your "Start Error" codes. I believe the only other components would be the ring antenna or the chipped key so that leaves the module.

If you don't mind telling, what was the ballpark cost for SKREEM replacement? Did they have the part on hand?

Thanks for the follow-up post that you're back in business. vic
 

Top Bottom