Lock Sycronization

General Disarray

2012 NCV3 170" Hightop
I can't find my exact problem in all the threads about the quirky locking system on my '06 2500, so forgive me if this has been covered.

My locks are out of syc; the driver wont lock or unlock with the rest of them. The rear cargo never locks, which started first. Then the FOB stopped working. Now that I use a key, they're not sync'd which means I can't lock the van. Here's my question:

1)I found the sync procedure, followed it EXACTLY about 12 times with no success. Is there another procedure to sync the locks without using the FOB?

2)It says if it doesn't work, use reprogramming procedure. Whats that?
 

Eric Experience

Well-known member
General disaray.
Can you give us a bit of history, Was it all normal before or have you just done some repairs? Can you "see' the motors with an ohm meter when you connect to the contacts on the back of the doors? Eric
 

General Disarray

2012 NCV3 170" Hightop
General disaray.
Can you give us a bit of history, Was it all normal before or have you just done some repairs? Can you "see' the motors with an ohm meter when you connect to the contacts on the back of the doors? Eric
I was trying to be brief, but I see I left some things out. They worked off of the FOB or center panel when I bought the van used last year. No repairs whatsoever besides maintenance. One day the cargo door stopped locking, although I can hear it try. Then a few weeks later the FOB wouldn't unlock the van all of a sudden, so I replaced the battery. No luck. FOB sync from the manual did not work to restore it to functioning (yes red led blinks on FOB). Then in the last couple days the locks started becoming out of sync; i.e. pushing button on console doesn't unlock all doors. Sometimes driver door stays locked, etc.

So, is there a manual sync without using my broken FOB? Also, Can the system be reprogrammed with the FOB?
 

autostaretx

Erratic Member
If only *one* lock stops working... then the root problem has nothing to do with the syncronization between the key fob and the Sprinter.
(a radio/sync issue would affect all locks equally: they'd either all work/try or not. Distance from key to antenna (A pillar) would be a radio factor, too)
So stop confusing yourself chasing that issue.

It's going to be lock mechanisms, wiring, button-contacts (between door and frame) or connector pins falling off the back of those buttons.
Or (most expensive part last) the Central Timer Module (CTM), since it's what drives the lock mechanisms.

"...although i can hear it try" would be a symptom of a wire/contact gradually failing, becoming too thin to pass the current required
(or the door frame contacts becoming very dirty)
A plug on the CTM may be falling loose (or the CTM getting damp, etc)

Chase the wiring and parts... not the radio. It ain't the "programming"

What does the dash switch do? Use the dash switch as the only control until you have the wiring/doors sorted out.
Has the dash switch always been working properly (up until "the last couple days") ?

--dick
 
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