What needs to be done for first maintenance?

My van is 2 yrs old and only has about 7,500 miles on it.
I need to do an oil change, but I'm not sure what else I need to do.

My Operators Manual says to do these things at "Oil Service Plus" or "Maintenance Service":

Engine oil and filter change
Replace fuel filter with water separator
(DEF Fluid has already been replaced)
Retighten spring clip on the rear axel (to be done at 1st Oil service plus)
Renew brake fluid (Every 2 years)

I haven't been able to find ANY information on what, where, or how to retighten the rear axel spring clip. (Not in my operators manual, and a search of the forum produced no results).

I called a local tire & brake store to ask if they could bleed & renew the brake fluid and if it met MB's DOT 4 Plus with wet boiling point of 180 deg C and MB spec 331.0. The guy said YES, but he wondered why I would want to do this so soon. I told him that's what the MB Service interval indicated and that their note says; "Over the course of a brake fluid's service life, its boiling point falls due to the continuous absorption of moisture from the atmosphere." He said that it is a closed system and that nothing should be getting in there... but that he would be more than happy to change it for me.

If changing the fluid every 2 yrs is standard on these vehicles I'll have them rotate the tires at the same time (otherwise I'll just have them rotated).

Is there anything else I should do?

Thanks,
Kat

Im not 100% sure but I think your first oil change should be at 10,000 miles? Ive read new engines get a break in type oil. I would confirm this dont take it for fact from me.

2 Years is a lot of sitting, that would be my main concern. I would put a air filter on the list just because its cheap and Im not sure the "shelf life" on the air filters with little to no use.

I guess if this was stored inside I would be less concerned with the lack of miles put on it.

I just put 50,000 km in one year on mine

Kat,
I wouldn't worry too much about changing the brake fluid.
Besides which your local tire/brake guy does not have the necessary MB SDS
Diagnostics Computer to flush your brake system completely or correctly.
The ABS/ESP module needs to be "exercised" by the computer during the flush to
pump some new fluid through all the valves/ports in the ABS/ESP module.
Have you looked in the maintenance manual that came in the glove box of your
Sprinter.... it should list all the things that need to be done on the "A" service.
Also, did you run out of DEF and simply add some, or did you have it sucked out
completely replaced.
DEF fluid has a fairly short shelf life, and there is some MB literature that suggests
if it's been in the vehicle for > 18 months to 2 years, it needs to be removed and
completely replaced.
The nuts that need to be torqued at the first service are the "U" clamp nuts
under the saddle that holds the rear springs and the rear axle in alignment.
Not sure what the torque is, but you could easily do that yourself.
I know you want to change the oil, but it's suggested that you go the full 10K miles
with the original oil, then do a complete oil and filter change.
Hope this helps,
Roger

Wrong & wrong...

Go by the book, change brake fluid every two year... it is recommended for a valid reason. TWO STRIKES on your grease monkey... do not have him service your van.

The oils change interval is 2 years or 10k miles, which ever comes first.



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Thanks...

The things I listed are what were listed in my glove box operator's manual.

I bought the van in Oct. 2010, but it was manufactured before that, so the oil is technically more than 2 years old. Booklet says 10,000 mi or 2 years for normal use. However, some (not most) of that mileage has been for around town/short distance driving in which case the booklet says to change the oil every 5,000 mi. Also, the little wrench icon on my dash came on several months ago indicating service was needed at the 2 yr mark.

The thing is that I live in the Pacific NW and I don't have a garage or any dry place to do oil changes or other work on it. There isn't much time left before the rains start up here and once they do, I might as well forget about working on it until next June. I'd rather change the oil now than have to do it on the ground in the rain and cold.

I changed out the DEF fluid because that was also something that expires if it isn't used... I don't have a tool to suck out fluids from the fill neck, so I drained it out from below. That was done before I took a 4,400 mile vacation in it in August.

Thanks for the info on what it is that needs to be retightened... but, it sounds like I need to know what the torque on the bolts is supposed to be. I used to have a torque wrench years ago, but gave it away. Any ideas on what kind of torque wrench I should get? I'm hoping to NOT make this a full time career, but also don't like junk tools.

Thanks again!
Kat

You could try MB Vancouver in Richmond....

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sailquik said:

Kat,
Besides which your local tire/brake guy does not have the necessary MB SDS
Diagnostics Computer to flush your brake system completely or correctly.
The ABS/ESP module needs to be "exercised" by the computer during the flush to
pump some new fluid through all the valves/ports in the ABS/ESP module......

Hope this helps,
Roger

Click to expand...

OrioN said:

Wrong & wrong...

Go by the book, change brake fluid every two year... it is recommended for a valid reason. TWO STRIKES on your grease monkey... do not have him service your van.

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk 2

Click to expand...

Okay, I'll get the brake fluid done... I'd rather prevent problems than create them.

Since the correct grease monkey needs the "MB SDS Diagnostics Computer to flush your brake system completely or correctly", does that mean I am stuck with going to the dealer for service? Most dealers I've ever been to charge an arm for the parts and two legs for their service!

Kat

MB Vancouver in Vancouver (not the Richmond) does my servicing & break flush a year ago... they have been professionals, till now. They charge like any other dealer does.

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Kat,
Best info I could find was that the rear axle U bolts are torqued to:
U-Bolt To Spring Plate & Axle(SRW&DRW) 170Nm 125 ft/lbs
Hope this helps,
Roger

Kat 7500 is way to low for a diesel but that's another story,
Engine fluid is good for another 12 months accordingly to Benz.However it does depend on the WIS data common rail diagnostic report.???????

This is not a U.S way of doing things, however the guidelines laid down by Daimler suggest you change fuel filter and oil filters, as to agile biocides and waxing contamination as to aging diesel fuels in your tank, more so as to what is sitting on the base of tank, as water sinks and this allows the medium for microbes to flourish, as fuel degrades waxing fouls injectors with heavy fuels, and reduces the ultra fine spray pattern of fuels from the injection needle tips. for maximum fuel burn.

Brake Fluid is critical for your on board diagnostic management system as to ABS ASR ETC

DOT4 plus has a two year life span under normal operational conditions. You don't have this but a red sticker on the fluid check container is marked from the factory as to year dates and servicing schedules.

When in doubt about the fluids conditions a separate electronic BFT with a diagnostic printout is performed it takes 30 seconds basically a pre-heater boils the fluid to assess the condition of the fluid, if below the three required limits, the fluid is replaced it costs 30 bucks down under for the test.

Fluid fails under moisture content and rust accumulation on the lines etc.

If replaced the sticker is replaced with a new servicing schedule. as to year and month.

Premium service schedules for low mileage vehicles require and upper cylinder injector additive to prevent injection problems due to rusticates and carbon build up water biocide. rusticates are the precursors for early injection and EGR failure this in turn becomes an issue with glow plug tip damage, thus reducing the maximum fuel burn on pre-warming chamber combustion with cold crank starts, which can if defective through poor maintenance scheduling, increase your emissions fuel management EFI systems NOx C02 with internal soot and carbon build up, through your EGR and maximum injection capability.

Benz does offer an additive, but not all outlets are aware of the Premium/Platinum service schedules.

look after your van, and it will look after you.
Richard

Richards reply ought to scare the S out of you! Wecome to the world of Mercedes.

Graphite Dave said:

Richards reply ought to scare the S out of you! Wecome to the world of Mercedes.

Click to expand...

No Dave it's called preventive maintenance, it's not handled by dealerships very well at all as to time scheduling mechanics with poor information's as part of Daimler on-line training updates,'in conjunction with their suppliers preferred guidelines' it has a cost attached and the dealers are required to pay a small fee to cover the basic administration costs that Daimler incurred.

And that is normally done outside of normal business trading hours.

A key to failure is glow plugs, dealers pull and replace and that's pretty much it, if the glow plug was pulled and the threads DE-carbonized including the exact torque down sequencing with e correct white ceramic grease to prevent carbon blow back up through the threads.
ANTI SEIZE IS NOT RECOMMENDED.

the question is this glow plug issue is a CARB requirement for Federal-Warranty-Emissions . now that doesn't exist outside of the States. however a glow plug is covered under emission warranty then so should the injector be covered, now that sets off alarm bells with fuel manufactured suppliers..

It's no going to happen.'This a global problem'.
Richard

Yes, I know that 7,500 is way low... it sat while I worked on the conversion and then I got involved in a bunch of home remodeling projects. But I put about 4,400 mi on it this summer and I'm hoping to take some shorter trips soon. I can see that it is going to cost me $$$ whether the van is sitting or is moving, and I'd prefer to be in the van going somewhere.

So I don't know if my oil, fuel or any other fluids have bugs, moisture or anything else in them. The engine air filter looks like new, although that may not mean anything.... Do people in the US get their brake fluid tested? It seems that if it is at/past the 2 year mark I would have to have get it changed for warranty reasons.

I looked at the door tag on my van and it says my van was mfg. in 4/2010. Would that be when all of the fluids were added then and that they are now 2.5 years old? (Maybe I've already violated the warranty??).

Kat

Kat said:

...I can see that it is going to cost me $$$ whether the van is sitting or is moving, and I'd prefer to be in the van going somewhere.
...
Kat

Click to expand...

Very good observation.

Not that you asked...

In my experience with our northeastern states weather, unless the vehicle is parked in an indoor, dry area you are better off using the Sprinter as a daily driver occasionally (maybe drive it every other week?) than you are letting it sit unused. Vehicles which sit outdoors unused seem to develop problems with rusted under body components, exhaust systems, fuel quality, etc. Unless the storage is planned for very long periods and proper storage techniques are applied, in my opinion (so take it for what it is worth) it is beeter to use the vehicle than to let it sit unused. vic

Brake fluid tests as stated the dealership should be able to do it.
The question as to the Bue-tec has a different status for shelf life.
Shelf life measures from low to high range acidity.
10c (50c) 75 years
60c (40c) One week.

Now tick the boxes as your local Mercedes tech is certificated to carry out testing on the urea as to a DEF is tested using a litmus test or Diesel refractometer, of which requires requisites of 9pH as to three divisions of suitability of the fluids life span ranging from high to low with the uses of a chromatically treated strip for an annalist.
It's like a quiz test if the crack-head tech doing the test programs gets it right 85% of the time, he's certificated.and gets a raise.
Then the dealer can charge you more for the test, that's business folks.
Richard

Aqua Puttana said:

Very good observation.

Not that you asked...

In my experience with our northeastern states weather, unless the vehicle is parked in an indoor, dry area you are better off using the Sprinter as a daily driver occasionally (maybe drive it every other week?) than you are letting it sit unused. Vehicles which sit outdoors unused seem to develop problems with rusted under body components, exhaust systems, fuel quality, etc. Unless the storage is planned for very long periods and proper storage techniques are applied, in my opinion (so take it for what it is worth) it is beeter to use the vehicle than to let it sit unused. vic

Click to expand...

If I had a good spot to build a garage for my Sprinter I'd be on it. I'm sick of having all the tree debris falling on my van and I don't like the thought of having her sit out all winter in the rain/snow and getting covered with dirt and algae. I won't be able to drive her if/when we get snow & or ice (there are steep hills here and the city doesn't plow the back streets).

I live on a city flag lot, my front yard is very small, and there is no access to the back. So that leaves me with either building an accessory building that protrudes out into the main driveway, or extending a taller garage out from the front of the house, leaving little maneuvering room. Having such a tall garage attached to the front of the house might look kind of weird though. I could get a couple more feet for an accessory building if I cut down about six 35'-40' tall trees. I'd have to widen my regular driveway a bit too...

I was driving Katmobile exclusively until I needed to pick up some people at the airport. I suppose I could have had people sit on the van floor, but instead I put my car back on the insurance. Unfortunately, my insurance has a new rule where you can't just put a vehicle on for a day or a week, they want it on for 30 days... I barely drive enough for one vehicle much less two! So far, it hasn't made sense to keep 2 vehicles insured and running full time.

Well I'm sure there is an answer out there, but it hasn't come to me yet. I wish there was some easy answer.

Kat

Altered Sprinter said:

Brake fluid tests as stated the dealership should be able to do it.
The question as to the Bue-tec has a different status for shelf life.

Richard

Click to expand...

Richard,

I replaced the DEF fluid with new at the end of July so it should be fine.

What may not be fine is the engine oil, filter, fuel filter, brake fluid, and the rear axle bolts that need to be tightened. I think that regardless of whether I have the MB dealer change the oil, if I pay them to change the brake fluid they should tighten those bolts for me since it's something they normally do at the first service.

Since my engine air filter looks like new, I'm going to assume it is also fine for awhile. I don't think my van has a cabin air filter, if it does it's not visible under the hood!

Thanks,

Kat

If you live near Seattle or Portland, have you checked with the independent shops such as Kollmar Craft (Seattle) or Upscale Auto Sprinter Store (Portland) to see if they are a better alternative than the dealer?

Hi Kat, Re two vehicles... I got rid of my car partly because of the essentially double cost of insurance. In another forum in a disscussion of towing and having a toad, someone mentioned they just rent a car occasionally when they need it. He figures he saves lots $$$. I think I'll do the same. Cheers, Ross

PS. Have you got any quotes from Wilsons? I might want to do the same. Also, I haven't needed them yet but
I was going to inquire at the German car repair place on near Kentucky st. I think they had a Unimog as a company truck on display.

"I was driving Katmobile exclusively until I needed to pick up some people at the airport. I suppose I could have had people sit on the van floor, but instead I put my car back on the insurance. Unfortunately, my insurance has a new rule where you can't just put a vehicle on for a day or a week, they want it on for 30 days... I barely drive enough for one vehicle much less two! So far, it hasn't made sense to keep 2 vehicles insured and running full time. "

Kat ,
the air filter you can see from under the hood on the passenger side near the bulkhead is the cabin filter.
The engine air filter is under the center plastic cover.
At the dealer approx cost...
Brake fluid $125
Air engine filter $100
Oil change w/filter $ 150
Fuel filter $125

Buy a cabin filter yourself for $15 on line and change it yourself, takes 10 seconds.

Many dealers won't reset service ASSYST unless they do a "1st Service"
Ask the dealer for the "1st Service" cost, see what you get?
1st service would include an inspection and torquing the U-Bolts
U-Bolt torque takes 2 minutes.
lOOK to see if your dealers have specials for your Sprinter posted on their website.