I think I solved lack of power problem.

Today, I changed transmission filter & oil, and fuel filter at MB dealer.
Mechanic said that transmission filter was crazily dirty, and fuel filter was dirty, but not too dirty.
He said that it looks like this truck hasn't changed transmission filter so far.

After chaining, I could feel more power, but still I'm not sure.. I need more test.
Can dirty transmission filter cause lack of power?

I'll update soon.
 

PLUMMER

New member
I've learned that sprinters love and need to be ran hard, otherwise they can gum up earlier than normal. In my case simply running 100% throttle to top speed from a dead stop or under 5 mph getting on the highway will always trigger a reduced power mode if a problem is still present. For my 07 its the quickest way to test a fix. The tranny filter and fluid will help a small bit but from what I was told bad fluid isn't gonna cause a LHM unless its low or the filter was completely plugged. And there are codes for these problems. Same with the fuel filter, if it was bad enuff a fuel rail pressure code will pop up quickly.
 
Thank you for the reply, but I think there's many reason causing lack of power.
And I saw someone who fix the problem after chaining fuel filter. He also doesn't have any code.

>>running 100% throttle to top speed from a dead stop or under 5 mph getting on the highway will always trigger a reduced power mode
By the way, in above case, what is your reduced power mode symptom?

And I have one more question.
How can I check if there are hole or crack in many hoses?
I think it is close to impossible to see tiny size of hole in many hoses in sprinter.
Is there a specific method to check?

I went to 2 dodge dealer and 1 benz dealer, and I described my sprinter problem(lack of power), and possible reason(filter,holes..).
But I got a feeling like this..
Me: (In restaurant ) I want to order two medium steak that is not too salty, well done, and blah blah..
Owner: (to the chef) two medium steak.

Because It's hard to talk with mechanic in dealershop, I'm not sure if they really checked every hoses or not.
 
Last edited:

PLUMMER

New member
>>running 100% throttle to top speed from a dead stop or under 5 mph getting on the highway will always trigger a reduced power mode....(only if a problem exists or still exists, otherwise you just bounce off the speed limiter)
By the way, in above case, what is your reduced power mode symptom?
For me, when it kicks in, rpms won't go over 2800 or 3000. From a stop no matter how much throttle input you give it, it drives all on its own, shifting at 1200-1400 rpm till its in 5th gear at 22-25mph.

There are 3 types of LHM I gather from reading Aqua Putina's posts.
Getting stuck in 2nd gear can relate to tranny,tcm,ABS,ESP, brake switch areas.....
 
For me, when it kicks in, rpms won't go over 2800 or 3000. From a stop no matter how much throttle input you give it, it drives all on its own, shifting at 1200-1400 rpm till its in 5th gear at 22-25mph.
I have didn't try such thing, but I think that's not my case. I'll try to see the result.
I need more test to see the performance.

However, I think What I though that it is LHM may be the nature of sprinter or diesel.

One other major problem is bad MPG..
I saw your review of additive. Is it really help your MPG so much?
 

PLUMMER

New member
I would suggest driving a brand new sprinter, and compare it to how yours drives. My biggest improvements came from a cleaned EGR & cooler, complete charge air system that has no leaks, and tranny fluid & filter change. I made the mistake of not changing my fluid sooner. (82,000 miles) city driving. It lost its red color fast from 70k looking good to very bad at 82k. I had to replace my connector plate with the speed sensors most likely from this. As with 1,000 miles on the fluid its red is fading fast. Think I will be doing another fluid change or flush in another 1k. After the trans fluid change and DR. A NAG1 tech cleaning, the van shifted very good, but it became very dirty quickly. If yours was very brown or clear, you might wanna check the fluid and magnets in 500 miles after a service. As thats how long it took mine to act up again. Good Luck

PS: both HOWE"S Meaner power Kleaner ULSD ok, Diesel treat and Redline RL-4 work very good. I would see good gains, however whenever those LHM's acted up milage would go in the rubbish
 
Last edited:

PLUMMER

New member
I appologize, its actually RL-3 by redline http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=33&pcid=11

Howes = http://www.howeslube.com/ both of these bottles of treatment. The meaner kleaner IS THE BEST that I have tested and been able to see immediate results from cleaning. Now those great results were on a very dirty 6.5 GMC turbo diesel, but I still was able to notice it on my sprinter. I've run Howes fuel conditioner the most on my 07,hard to say which one is the best. For cleaning, I will definitely say Meaner Kleaner and rl-3 a close 2nd. For milage its Howes conditioner , but this is only because I have more accurate test data. I've had some issues with the van since using redline ( not because) so I don't have fair testing conditions, or consistent engine performance to give accurate data on the RL. I think they are the same from what I do have. The meaner kleaner I only use for clean up doses and not all the time. I would say 10% improvement from any of these. I pretty much burn Marathon diesel 95% of the time.
 
Thank you.
Today I went to San diego area with empty, and came back with load(truck+load:10600lb).
This time I drove little faster than usually I drove to see the performance.
60mph to 70mph(most time 65mph) depend on traffic on I-5

When I drove my sprinter, I still feel some lack of power, but when my father drove it, he said it's very good.
May be my expectation for sprinter is too high. However, for sure, it's better performance after chaining filter and oil.

I found better power and speed when I make rpm more than 2800.
Once I make a high enough RPM before hill, It was easy to climb hill.
It was not always easy to make a speed more than 60mph on hill when I drive with D.
To make a speed more than 60mph on hill, I had to change 4.


This time I got a 12.5 mpg. Very disappointing.
Next time, I'll use addictive, and I'll drive at 60mph, and I'll see the result.
However, I think it's not gonna make more than 20mpg, right?
 
Last edited:

PLUMMER

New member
wow! probably not at 10,600 lbs. At 7500 or less I can get over 20 mpg. But when I'm loaded to the limit 8600 lbs I'm in the 13-15's above 70 mph and around 15-16 at 60 mph. By having the rpms higher before you climb a hill, it is easier for the turbo to light and it makes much more power earlier. If you lug the turbo sometimes it never lites, and raises the psi to compensate. Best way I can describe is...... If you ever watch a diesel at the drag strip or truck pulls, you will notice sometimes it takes them a long time to stage, and the exhaust just chugs heavy black smoke while they are carefully trying to increase rpm & load to light the turbo. As soon as the black smoke starts to disappear,( but before a huge flame comes out) this is when the exhaust temps are good in the correct sections of the turbo and exhaust pipe. We call this lighting the turbo, so it doesn't fall on its face when you take off or increase the load dramatically. If you find yourself slowing down as you go up hill, then give it more pedal, your too late, now you have to downshift.
 

PLUMMER

New member
possibly in your case. I think if you go test drive a new one you'll find out quick whether somethings not right. Oxygen sensors are supposed to be replaced after 160km I think thats 100k miles. Even tho it won't show a code or even be bad, a new one will have closer limits or tolerances in readings. IF yours is pushing the limits of its acceptable readings , a new one WILL improve milage. I have seen this with my older diesels. Working on the sprinter is fun compared to many other brands I've had, so keeping a tight rig is much easier once you read all you can here and have it figured out.
 

suzieque

Member
I appologize, its actually RL-3 by redline http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=33&pcid=11

Howes = http://www.howeslube.com/ both of these bottles of treatment. The meaner kleaner IS THE BEST that I have tested and been able to see immediate results from cleaning. Now those great results were on a very dirty 6.5 GMC turbo diesel, but I still was able to notice it on my sprinter. I've run Howes fuel conditioner the most on my 07,hard to say which one is the best. For cleaning, I will definitely say Meaner Kleaner and rl-3 a close 2nd. For milage its Howes conditioner , but this is only because I have more accurate test data. I've had some issues with the van since using redline ( not because) so I don't have fair testing conditions, or consistent engine performance to give accurate data on the RL. I think they are the same from what I do have. The meaner kleaner I only use for clean up doses and not all the time. I would say 10% improvement from any of these. I pretty much burn Marathon diesel 95% of the time.
I dont see the rl products readily available so i cannot look at the packaging. Is rl2 and rl3 safe for the dpf? The rl website says the rl2 and rl3 are ok with low sulphur diesel but no mention of ultra low sulphur, whats up with that?
 

jdcaples

Not Suitable w/220v Gen
I dont see the rl products readily available so i cannot look at the packaging. Is rl2 and rl3 safe for the dpf? The rl website says the rl2 and rl3 are ok with low sulphur diesel but no mention of ultra low sulphur, whats up with that?
Both are safe for ultra low sulfur diesel (15ppm).

-Jon
 

OrioN

2008 2500 170" EXT
I just picked up my second gallon of RL3 last Saturday. I ordered it in from RL through MoPac Auto Supply - Langley. They have branches in Calgary & Edmonton. Their pricing is lower than all others and less than what I paid from RL shopping cart for my first gallon 2 years ago.
 

Top Bottom