Probable burnt piston in 06, What to do now?

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dremd

Member
Finally got around to testing injectors on my Dad's 06 freight liner, unfortunately it is most certainly to late to do all that much good. Probably didn't do a full 10 seconds as battery was fairly dead.



#1



#2#3#4



#4#5


It started running terribly about 50 miles north of Shreveport on way home from Omaha, and died after a few minutes (sorry, I was 250 miles away), after sitting for quite some time (probably 45 minutes before I got him to look at Scangauge) coolant temp was 276F, but he swears that the gauge (factory) was reading normal the entire time. We got it towed home.


Now it starts and runs terribly with what would appear to be fuel / air mix blowing out of oil fill cap (only when removed), and a noise that is not terribly different to a rod knock. I did the above test and it sounds completely normal when not trying to run (cam sensor unplugged).

I'm assuming that this is fairly conclusive evidence that there is a hole in a piston / elsewhere. I'd really like someone to tell me that I'm wrong though.

I'm now trying to decide if I should pull the motor myself, and get another motor, or try and pull it apart and hope that the cylinder walls are look ok, or something I haven't seen mentioned here which is try and pull the head / oil pan off while in the van. OR just have someone else do it.

I've got a fair amount of Mechanics experience, Lots of Toyota (Supras, Celicas,Corollas, Matrix), Fair amount of VW Diesel experience (been driving them for about 5 years, and have done plenty of Swaps/ upgrades), plenty of ford 5.4 / 460 experiences, fair amount of Navistar 7.3 experience. Probably much more that I can't think of. But basically no Mercedes experience.
So, Basically, how much will I hate myself if I take on this job?
 
1

1cylshort

...of a full Cummins.
Well, its a diesel engine just like any other when it comes to blow by and bad noises.

There's guys that have pulled engines out (along with the trans) - you can find their experiences here.

You'll hate yourself more if you see the bill from a Mercedes or Freightliner dealer.

Waynerodd up here in Ohio rebuilds engines, usually has one or two ready to go.

You might as well do the dirty time consuming work yourself. I did a transmission with no experience, so I bet you can handle an engine. Find a PDF of the service manual....
 
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dremd

Member
I've got the Service manual PDF (actually in Ibooks on my IOS devices as well).

How does he handle Re-Builds? Exchange? Straight out? Or ship to him and he rebuilds yours? Any Idea on pricing?

I've read a few engine swap threads, looks very doable, definitely thinking about doing it myself.

Anybody know of any threads that include the typical "if only I had known X . . . ." info?
 
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tegnamo

Member
My only "if only" aspect of my engine rebuild was wishing I had tried to protect my steering rack a bit better. The engine/trans tilted down onto a hard line on the steering rack and while it didn't damage anything I was pretty concerned about so much weight on a small line. Make some little plywood slides that let you "drag" the engine out over the frame rails and stuff.

Also consider using a floor jack to articulate the transmission up and down while removing/installing the entire unit. The removal motion is sort of a forward, tilt, forward, up and out motion. I'm sure there's people who can do it on their own with just an engine hoist but I found it all to be somewhat cumbersome.

You can check out my engine swap thread if you want. Maybe you've already seen it, of course.

https://sprinter-source.com/forums/showthread.php?t=17341
 
1

1cylshort

...of a full Cummins.
dremd said:
I've got the Service manual PDF (actually in Ibooks on my IOS devices as well).

How does he handle Re-Builds? Exchange? Straight out? Or ship to him and he rebuilds yours? Any Idea on pricing?

I've read a few engine swap threads, looks very doable, definitely thinking about doing it myself.

Anybody know of any threads that include the typical "if only I had known X . . . ." info?
Click to expand...
Just search for waynerodd and you'll find his contact info. I think he'll do all the above. He can probably give you some tips for pulling as well.

When I did my trans, I dropped the steering rack. Four big bolts, and it drops below the crossmember. When pulling the trans, you need to do it to get to the flex to torque conv. bolt access holes. That and a doubled up extension. Fun!
 
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dremd

Member
tegnamo said:
My only "if only" aspect of my engine rebuild was wishing I had tried to protect my steering rack a bit better. The engine/trans tilted down onto a hard line on the steering rack and while it didn't damage anything I was pretty concerned about so much weight on a small line. Make some little plywood slides that let you "drag" the engine out over the frame rails and stuff.
Click to expand...
Because of your insight, I tied a floor jack to the Transmission rear mount bracket, I'd recommend this method, right up until the jack hit the crossmember / steering rack, then it gets hairy.


tegnamo said:
Also consider using a floor jack to articulate the transmission up and down while removing/installing the entire unit. The removal motion is sort of a forward, tilt, forward, up and out motion. I'm sure there's people who can do it on their own with just an engine hoist but I found it all to be somewhat cumbersome.
Click to expand...
My Load Leveler made my hoist / chain combo far to tall, ended up with chain through lifts cross hole intended for bracket that holds the hook, not ideal, but worked ok.

tegnamo said:
You can check out my engine swap thread if you want. Maybe you've already seen it, of course.

https://sprinter-source.com/forums/showthread.php?t=17341
Click to expand...
YES, I was reading your thread prior to posting this thread, good stuff, thank you.
 
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dremd

Member
Well, Motor is out, Trans is off, motor would be on stand, but I need longer bolts.

Not much exciting other than what I mentioned above.

I'd recommend pulling motor out 1/4-1/2 way out to get to various connectors on drivers side, not required, just would have been easier.

Than damn bar (painted body color + welded in)behind the radiator support is a PITB, WTF does it do? I considered cutting it, but resisted.


Does any one know if the Injectors can be rebuilt by a Regular Bosch injector service place? is there a go to place for injector rebuilds? OR is it just a buy new item?


THANK YOU EVERYONE!!!!
 
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dremd

Member
Well, Guys, it is apart, Top End looks allright, Bottom end, well, Not So good.

#2 had loose rod bolts, Yes loose, not stretched, not stripped, not damaged, same length as the others. See below pic.



And another journal, blued. Eww



Obviously would need crank / rod, what do you guys think? worth overhauling? or just buy a Rebuild?
 
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tegnamo

Member
dremd said:
Than damn bar (painted body color + welded in)behind the radiator support is a PITB, WTF does it do? I considered cutting it, but resisted.
Click to expand...
Oh jeez. Yeah, that's another thing I should have mentioned. It's a thin strip of non-structural sheet metal, right? Just seems to sit there and do nothing, from the looks of it? Yeah...I cut it out with sheet metal snips.
 
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dremd

Member
Does anyone know the engine Subcode for the NAFTA sprinters?

My Supplier can get OM647-960 OM647-961 OM647-963, my engine tag (on injector cover) was black spray painted over, I'm not sure if the info is there or not, but it may be.

ANY help is ALWAYS appreciated.
 
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dremd

Member
All NAFTA T1N sprinters should be OM647.981, this info is highly difficult to to locate, not anyplace I could locate it on the motor/ chasis/ owners manual.
 
D

dremd

Member
Got a Bottom end from Wayne rod, it arrived earlier this week.
Got my cylinder head / accessories installed and timed yesterday.
Got the motor back in the van today.

Starts / runs with no codes, unfortunately it runs fairly (ok, very) rough. It smokes a bit under loading doesn't appear to make much power (haven't driven it yet).
Based on how it runs, I'm guessing that it is running on 4 cylinders.

Anybody have any ideas / clues?
 
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talkinghorse43

Well-known member
If one cylinder isn't firing, then no fuel or no compression. Since you didn't say you had white smoke, then probably no fuel to that cylinder. No fuel probably means a bad injector. I'd run a shade tree leak-off test. Search using the tool in the blue bar above for the thread by "type2teach" to see how to do the test.
 
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dremd

Member
I've done a leak off test (again) and 4 are borderline in prescribed leak down and 1 leaks very little. Basically the same as the injectors were prior to issue.

Not sure what hat actually means for my issue.


I'm also not actually sure if I have posted this or not, but my previous motor had 5 loose rod caps finger tight)(not stretched/ worn on 4) with 1 almost completely disconnected (but bolts exactley same length) and heavily beat crank. Absolutely nothing on the motor was torqued anyplace near spec, motor had 10 over pistons in it which were in excellant / low carbon condition. Cylinder walls were in much better condition than the motor i just installed)

I purchased the van with (some) factory warranty remaining, so, all and all poor situation.
 
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