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View Full Version : 03 3500 lousy acceleration after preventive maintenancemaintenance


sterling
04-15-2012, 06:59 AM
Thank you forum for your patience with me...after being stealer-shipped the past year; suffice it to say @ 100,000 miles I have a new intake manifold, 2 new injectors, new high-pressure pump, new rail pressure valve, new camshaft sensor, new crankshaft sensor, new brakes all around, new fuel filter with the wrong kind of clamps, new fuel lines, new MAF sensor, new air filter, new instrument cluster - (I think)...in any event, the van was finally running like a fine swiss watch up and 'til today when we did the following in this order:

replaced front struts to konis;

replaced EGR valve & gasket with OEM, without disconnecting the battery;

changed oil & filter - all spot on;

replaced OEM alternator with new 150 Bosh after disconnecting battery;

only to start-up to a marked-drop in acceleration...slow getting up to speed....Is the new EGR valve working?....motor sounds more throaty, but less power.....idk, but am learning. love this forum and so appreciate your input and replys!!. thanks so much.

icarus
04-15-2012, 07:12 AM
Year? Model?

At first glance I would think EGR since you just changed it. Why did you change it? Bigger question, why all the other replacement parts with just 100k on the vehicle? Sounds to me like some one doesn't know what they are doing!

Icarus

sterling
04-15-2012, 07:19 AM
Year? Model?

At first glance I would think EGR since you just changed it. Why did you change it? Bigger question, why all the other replacement parts with just 100k on the vehicle? Sounds to me like some one doesn't know what they are doing!

Icarus

most of the repair work done via extended warranty with chrysler. dealership in socal used trial & error. i do not own a scan tool.

Aqua Puttana
04-15-2012, 01:43 PM
Is the MIL Malfunction Indicator Light on? I agree with Icarus that the EGR change is the most likely of the things you did to make a difference. Double check that the electrical connector is properly seated. Presuming it was running OK before the EGR change, it would not be too much work to just remove the new EGR and re-install the old for test drive. Double check all electrical connectors in the areas you did work to make certain they are properly seated. Good luck. vic

talkinghorse43
04-15-2012, 02:31 PM
Any smoke from the tailpipe?

sterling
04-15-2012, 02:35 PM
no malfunction light on - will report my findings shortly..thnx so much:idunno:

NelsonSprinter
04-15-2012, 05:02 PM
Did you remember to plug the EGR valve wires back on?

sterling
04-15-2012, 06:00 PM
no funny smoke - wires plugged back in.. am partially soaking the old EGR valve in carb cleaner & will change out shortly

Also removed the plastic head cover to view the injectors...may have bumped something electrical idk

NelsonSprinter
04-15-2012, 06:19 PM
Can you post pictures of the engine now? maybe we'll see somthing missing?

sterling
04-15-2012, 10:39 PM
changed back to the old, now clean EGR valve, and same problem so not the valve, as an aside my mechanic jerk managed to strip a couple of the manifold bolt holes by using an air wrench on the removal, cannot believe he did this, its is aluminum, brand-new,.....(when it rains it pours)..... in any event everything seems snug now with a backside nut on one of the bolts...same problem as before, ie., very sluggish/boggy up hills, super poor acceleration....my mechanic also did not follow instructions as to first disconnect the battery before anything else and possibly this has served to throw off either the transmission shift relay or the air/fuel mix electronics....

no smoke, no dash malfunction lights, engine starts up nicely, oil change shows level to be perfect in the middle... just seems like rpm's not in sync with transmission so as to optimize power...only makes 70 MPH on freeway after too long of time..max rpm/s on hiway about 3000...seems like if the transmission would auto downshift all would be fine..your input is greatly appreciated as usual

maybe the new alternator is throwing something off:idunno:or turbo not kicking in....
my vehicle titled as 03 but the motor shows to be a MB 612 2002...per attached photo...don't know if this makes a difference as I always order parts for 03 3500MB

sterling
04-15-2012, 10:45 PM
motor label

sterling
04-15-2012, 11:02 PM
photo of motor
& battery

NelsonSprinter
04-15-2012, 11:31 PM
Was a turbo hose removed under the aluma-shield to replace the alternator, and forgot to put back? Does the Turbo whistle when accelerating?
Maybe ask a DAD/ scan owner or Sprinter Shop to scan for codes. 2002 & 2003 are near clones.
Try removing the battery cables for 1/2 hour and replace to reset the ECU ?

sterling
04-15-2012, 11:57 PM
Was a turbo hose removed under the aluma-shield to replace the alternator, and forgot to put back? Does the Turbo whistle when accelerating?
Maybe ask a DAD/ scan owner or Sprinter Shop to scan for codes. 2002 & 2003 are near clones.
Try removing the battery cables for 1/2 hour and replace to reset the ECU ?

Nelson, thanks for your input, attached is photo of installed new alternator...I did notice a thin hose hanging down that looked like a drain hose for something and following it up looks like it leads to MAF box or the turbo?...and then I see where it maybe fits onto the gold colored thing with a fluid/air male receptacle in the center? sorry to be so sprinter illiterate, but Im learning...should I plug the hose in or no or does it serve as some sort of drain?

NelsonSprinter
04-16-2012, 12:16 AM
Yes that is some kind of vacuum hose , definately belongs attached where you said, that's underside of the Turbo

sterling
04-16-2012, 12:49 AM
Yes that is some kind of vacuum hose , definately belongs attached where you said, that's underside of the Turbo

Nelson YOU ARE THE MAN!!:cheers: reattached the vacuum hose from the turbo and disconnected battery cables for 30 minutes....whichever, whatever, runs better than new!

Many Thanks!!

Aqua Puttana
04-16-2012, 01:26 AM
Nelson YOU ARE THE MAN!!:cheers: reattached the vacuum hose from the turbo and disconnected battery cables for 30 minutes....whichever, whatever, runs better than new!

Many Thanks!!
Disconnecting the battery was not likely to have helped anything. The vacuum hose Nelson had you reconnect is essentially the power for the turbo vane operator. Without that connected the turbo vanes would not open so you had no turbo pushing extra air to your engine. That causes the low power situation you experienced.

Good to hear it all worked out. vic

NelsonSprinter
04-16-2012, 02:28 AM
Yeah a kind of vacuum solenoid switch tells the turbo when it's needed, no turbo no power, glad to hear I helped you solve