Didn't pass emissions

Here is a copy of the PDF report from the emissions test this morning. It failed first on WVO and then it failed a second time on diesel. The opacity rating is off the chart up around 60 with a limit of 40.

I wonder if either my MAF or EGR has failed.

Will plug in the DAD tonight and report. Driving around illegal

I am am interested in what the fix is.

Why is your Sprinter listed as a VW?

it's a state of washington registration thing ..... after I pass the emission's test and go in to get my tags I will ask them if they can update the information ....

jmoller99 said:

Why is your Sprinter listed as a VW?

Click to expand...

Could it be a build-up of waxy oil on the injector tips from the WVO making fuel injectors clogged enough to make droplets instead of a fine mist? Injector cleaner might fix?

It's possible. But it would not be waxy oil. It would be caked carbon buildup like what is in this photo.

I will check the error codes tonight with DAD, from there I might go ahead and put a can of sea foam in and drive the van around at 80 MPH in 3rd gear. Next I would pull the injectors, its almost been about a year since I pulled them.

Further thoughts. Last April when I pulled the original 5 injectors, and put in the replacement injectors I did not match the injector codes to the ECU. I wonder if this could have also contributed to my problem.

Either way my wife is going to kill me when she finds out the cost of fixing the van. $400 for EGR or $600 for rebuilt injectors. Thank goodness its paid off ...... and good that I have a job and should be getting a healthy paycheck tomorrow.

NelsonSprinter said:

Could it be a build-up of waxy oil on the injector tips from the WVO making fuel injectors clogged enough to make droplets instead of a fine mist? Injector cleaner might fix?

Click to expand...

Your O2 Sensor may be screwed up. If so, it likely is not throwing any errors, just causing the fuel/air mixture to be wrong.

You might try to add the Colorado Al EGR circuit (I am waiting on parts to build mine) to eliminate the EGR completely.

I don't think eliminating the EGR functionality is going to help me pass emissions ....

jmoller99 said:

You might try to add the Colorado Al EGR circuit (I am waiting on parts to build mine) to eliminate the EGR completely.

Click to expand...

Maybe it's as simple as accumulated soot (stuck to surfaces) that gets blown out of the exhaust system under the conditions of the test (how is the test run?). Might just have to run it at high rpm out on the highway before you go in for the next test.

In washington they do what is called a "snap" test. Basically they have a sensor in the exhaust. They also plug into your ODB port. Then they have you stomp on the gas and then let it go while the vehicle is in park.

I know that I had to take the passat and run it at 90 in 3rd gear for twenty minutes before it passed. So yeah I may take a can of seafoam and put it in the tank then run the heck out of the van.

talkinghorse43 said:

Maybe it's as simple as accumulated soot (stuck to surfaces) that gets blown out of the exhaust system under the conditions of the test (how is the test run?). Might just have to run it at high rpm out on the highway before you go in for the next test.

Click to expand...

If you get it to a point where you (or someone you know) can stomp on it in your own drive way and not see a plume of opacity out the pipe, you'll pass the next test.


Evenso, if it were me, I wouldn't go back to lane 4 in station 14 for a while because I have serious trust issues about our state's emission tests and the maintenace of the gear.

-Jon

PS: In the words of Seattle-ite Dan the Diesel Doctor, "Power Service helps the smokers."

Yeah after checking the DAD tonight I might go ahead and buy some of that. I just ran a full container of sea foam in 1/4 tank of diesel. Basically ran it on the free way down into portland in 3rd gear the whole way down and back.

Since you have a DAD, you can set the injector codes (assuming you have/know them)

good luck
--dick

talkinghorse43 said:

<snip>
how is the test run?<snip>

Click to expand...

A copy of the SNAP test document - SAE J1667 - is attached.

The driver pulls into the test bay. Equipment is used to measure engine RPMs at idle.
Upon instruction, the driver depresses the accelerator to the floor and holds it until instructed to release; usually three or four of the longest seconds of your life. The RPM governor is the only thing between engine destruction.

There are a few preliminary "snaps," then the probe is inserted into the tail pipe and three SNAPs are measured for opacity.

In WA, diesels starting at MY 1993 are allowed to blow a 40. Prior 1993, they're allowed to blow a 60. Vehicles are required to be tested every other year.

The same vehicle tested twice in the same bay will score differently in back-to-back tests; but in my personal experience, not wildly differently.

Vehicles test better in the summer - think 90 degrees F - than they do in the winter.

Mack, for registration year 2014, take your test the August prior to expiration, well before the state sends you the love note indicating you need a test before you get your tabs for 2014.

The test results in WA are good for 365 days.

You pass "easier" in the summer because the ambient temp & summer blend fuel promote more complete combustion.

You can send for your tabs well-before they expire (6 months, I think); well before the test expires.

-Jon

Another item on the WA SNAP: i believe the OBD hookup is *only* to extract the RPM during the test.
When i did mine, they tried to do it as if i was an ignition (gasoline) model: they just tapped into the cigar lighter socket (looking for electrical noise pulses ).
Funny thing... they couldn't get a reading.
So i suggested the OBD socket, and off we went...

--dick

Well I only had glow plug and rail pressure to low errors. I know I need to do my glow plugs, and the low rail pressure is because I need to replace my WVO filter.

Was able to actuate the EGR valve to under that test in DAD.

mackconsult said:

Well I only glow plug and rail pressure to low errors.

Click to expand...

Maybe the low rail pressure is the problem? That might interfere with injector operation. I would expect a clogged filter to result in low pressure at the HP pump inlet, as well as low rail pressure. Maybe too much leak-off from one or more injectors, or a rail pressure control valve issue?

I don't think so. The low rail pressure alarm is one time event. When it happens it throws the alarm, and goes into LHM. A simple re-key and the LHM mode goes away and the van runs normally but the error will stay in the ECU.

If I am able to rev the motor using the SNAP method then no low pressure rail occurrences are occurring. I also verified this with the DAD. Rail pressures and injectors I believe are find. I am going to go throw $20 diesel and some more cleaner in, then drive the heck out of the van and see if it will pass. If it doesn't I will pull the injectors.

talkinghorse43 said:

Maybe the low rail pressure is the problem? That might interfere with injector operation. I would expect a clogged filter to result in low pressure at the HP pump inlet, as well as low rail pressure. Maybe too much leak-off from one or more injectors, or a rail pressure control valve issue?

Click to expand...

driving it in 2nd and 3rd gear at 3500 to 4000 rpms for 20 minutes did it.

PASSED

mackconsult said:

driving it in 2nd and 3rd gear at 3500 to 4000 rpms for 20 minutes did it.

PASSED

Click to expand...

What was your opacity number?

When you pass they don't give it to you. Something 40 or less.

jdcaples said:

What was your opacity number?

Click to expand...