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View Full Version : Engine stumble @1000-2000 rpms, LHM


MillionMileSprinter
07-25-2011, 03:44 AM
Saturday morning I woke bright and early to wash the Sprinter before heading off to SprinterFest East. I guess I didn't wake early enough because by the time we took off from the house, we were running late. I flew the 2 hour drive most of the way doing 75-80mph, but even though we had tripple digit temps, the van was doing fine. My LOD was little high at times, but I felt comfortable with everything else. About 3/4 of the way there, my mileage dropped a bit. I noticed it, but didn't think much of it. Then when I got off the expressway, I noticed a stumble or a shudder that felt like it was coming from the tranny. It would only happen once in a while, but I could tell that something wasn't right. By the time I got to SprinterFest, it seemed to be gone and I was happy to arrive. I mentioned it to the Sprinter Tech and he said the van was probably just reacting to the unusually high heat and to just take it easy on the drive home.
He was wrong (he was a great guy, and had been working on Sprinters since '02, but his suggestion/diagnosis was off this time)
When it was time to head home, I got in my van. She started right up and as I was driving out of the parking lot, I felt the shudder again. I drove around the complex a bit and figured that SprinterFest would be one of the best places to get some help with my Sprinter! So I turned back around and got Roger (Sailquik) to take the van for a spin. He didn't notice anything at first, and then, all of a sudden, he felt it, too. We couldn't pinpoint it. So then we went back to the parking lot and I asked Seans if I could use his DAD. He was kind enough to hook it up and we got some codes, but nothing that looked current or questionable.
Another Sprinter owner was there who suggested I clean my EGR valve and we figured I could probably get home without any major trouble. He also put my van in Park, pressed on the accelerator and checked out the MAF on the Scanguage. It stoped at 29.9. He said this was too low, but I don't remember if he said why it was too low. So off I went.
On the drive home, I figured out that that the problem is in the engine, and it happens between 1000 and 2000 rpms. At idle, the engine is fine. No surging, no rough running, nothing. But as I accelerate, wham, there it is. The engine is REALLY weak, and has trouble accelerating in those rpms, but once I get over 2000 rpms, it feels fine. So last night and then again today, I took to manually shifting to keep the rpms over 2000 when I upshifted. This worked fine until I had to climb an unusually long and steep hill. I had the van in 1st and had the rpms at 3000 because I knew that I couldn't upshift without getting the rpms down in that danger zone. All of a sudden, I felt the van shift into 2nd! I had the indicator and the shifter on 1. It seemed to not be able to make up it's mind because it went back into first and then back into second and then stayed there. Limp Home Mode. I got to the top of the hill, turned the key off, turned it back on and erased LHM. I then drove the 10 minutes home manually shifting to avoid that 1000-2000rpm range and the van was fine. Not fine as in "no more problems", but fine as in "no more LHM".
I'm going out to throw the DAD on her right now.
Any suggestions?
I'm thinking it might be an injector, but I just checked them all and replaced one a few weeks ago. Oil is good, tranny fluid is also good. Mass Air Flow Sensor was replaced within the last 6 months, new fuel filter, new cam sensor and I cleaned the snot out of my EGR and it works well, but no change in engine performance. :bash:

chris in BC
07-25-2011, 03:54 AM
What does LOD mean? And how do I post a problem I am having with my AC in this forum? I have 2 sprinters...an 05 and a 07. I was a truck driver for a long time, a mechanic told me once. Power for a diesel is produced by fuel in the lower bands and turbo in the higher bands. Do you think you might have a watery batch of fuel or condensation?

sailquik
07-25-2011, 05:11 AM
Chris,
LOD is the ECU/ECM/PCM computer caluculated % of engine load being currently used.
The % runs from 15-20% at idle with everything turned off to 99-100% when all the engines available power is being used up to move the vehicle and run all it's systems.
High LOD values indicate the turbocharger is pushing cooled air in at the max possible rate
(=> 35 PSI (Absolute)) and that the fuel injection system is pushing in the maximum possible amount of fuel by increasing the rail pressure and lengthening the duration of each injection cycle.
So, the LOD value can be used to indicate efficient operation of your Sprinter (or not!).
LOD calculated value is read through the OBD-II port using a ScanGauge II or other engine performance device (Dash DAQ/Bully Dog/ others).
With one of these engine performance readouts, you can downshift your Sprinter out of 5th gear (Overdrive 0.83:1 ratio) so the engine and transmission have more power and the engine
is running up in it's more efficient and powerful RPM range.
In order to post your question on your Sprinter AC, find the "Post new thread" button up at the top of the page near the Blue Bar.
Roger

autostaretx
07-25-2011, 05:38 AM
Joel...

Since you've got a ScanGauge check the IAT as well... (it should be 20F to 60F above ambient....
normally i'd consider 150F as a "failure" result, but on a 100F ambient day (at 70 mph) that may be a reasonable number.
If the engine is cold/cool, and you're just idling, the IAT should not be more than 60F over ambient (more likely 20 to 40F).

I don't floor my engine in Park, so i can't say if 29.9 was "low" for MAP.
Just puttering around in-city, i normally see about 4 inches higher than before-starting or just idle ambient pressure.
(so 18.5 when 14.9 is idle). I rarely see over 29 under "normal" (for me) driving.

--dick

MillionMileSprinter
07-25-2011, 06:30 PM
Sorry I don't have the DAD results from last night. I fell asleep at the computer before I got a chance to go out. :frown:
Update from driving to and from work:
I wonder if it isn't the Turbo or turbo related. I'm in the van by myself, and as long as I accelerate slowly and don't "ask" for the turbo, it revs up through the 1000-2000 rpm range without problems, but when I go up a hill or press harder on the accelerator, it boggs down under the load until it gets to 2000 rpms.
Can anyone tell me when/why the turbo kicks in? Is it possible for the turbo to malfunction at lower RPMs and then function fine at higher RPMs? Just stabbing in the dark, here.
And as far as gears go, I feel it less in first gear than I do in any other gear, but I wonder if that's just because I'm not requiring it to do as much work when it's in first. But could it be a tranny issue?
Yesterday when I was driving up the long, steep hill and it went from first into LHM, I had the van full of kids, so not only was it working to get up the hill, it was also pulling a few hundred extra lbs of weight, too.
Any more thoughts?

MillionMileSprinter
07-25-2011, 08:24 PM
Update #2
Stupid DAD still won't work. I can't figure that thing out. I've had it working before, when I first plugged it into the van back in February and then we got Seans DAD connected right away last Saturday, but two days later, after Seans and I figured out a workable method to connect it all, it won't work! :thinking::thinking::thinking:
*Sigh*
So I did a dummy injector leak off test.
Injector
#1- 1/4 teaspoon
#2- nothing (new injector)
#3- 1/8 teaspoon
#4- 1/2 teaspoon
#5- 2/3 teaspoon
Injector numbers 4 and 5 have the most fuel in their return vial, but are still minimal and nothing compared with the one I had to replace last month.
This is what the one bad one looked like:
http://sprinter-source.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=33929&stc=1&d=1307739049
#4 and #5 injector have about 1/4 of what #2 has in the above picture.
What are the actual factory specs on this? Anyone know?

MillionMileSprinter
07-25-2011, 08:48 PM
Just took another drive, this time watching the LOD carefully.
At idle, with the AC on, the LOD was between 55 and 65.
On acceleration, with AC on, the LOD jumped up all the way to 99 until it hit 2000 rpms and then dropped of to about 70, and this was NOT with the pedal to the metal. Just a decent bit of acceleration.
With the AC off, LOD was 45 at idle. Hmmmm:hmmm:
Any thoughts on interpreting these figures?

MillionMileSprinter
07-25-2011, 10:12 PM
One last post before I take a break.
I just spent the last hour or so inspecting all of my turbo hoses for cracks. Nothing.
I did, however, find a loose hose, or should I say, a loose hose clamp on the driver's side, coming out of the intercooler. I tightened it.
To remove the hoses, I had to remove the Intake air temp sensor. I just replaced it last week. When I put the hoses back on today and then in the IAT sensor, I took it for a drive. Same symptoms, loss of power around 1000-2000 rpms. BUT, instead of reading within a few degrees of the OUTSIDE air temp (87), my scanguage said that my IA temp was about 135! Up until now it has been very close to the outside air temp.
all I did was remove, inspect and then reinstall the turbo hoses.
What the Heck. :bash:

MillionMileSprinter
07-27-2011, 02:13 AM
Update:
Drove it to work today shifting manually. Kept my RPMs up like Sailquik has pointed out again and again and I kept it out of that "dead zone" from 1000-2000. She drive pretty fine. LOD was low, but even on heavy acceleration, I couldn't get the MAP up above 30. Now remember, this is with it pretty empty. Me, my two sons, and a small trailer with two trash cans full of mulch. I sure wish I had spent some time watching my scanguage when it was running right.
I think the long, hard drive to SprinterFest East managed to force some turbocharged air out of that loose ring at the intercooler because it's pretty oily right around that spot.
I'm still looking for ideas as to what could cause my loss of power ONLY between 1000-2000 RPMs. Anyone have any thoughts?

Altered Sprinter
07-27-2011, 02:20 AM
Update:
Drove it to work today shifting manually. Kept my RPMs up like Sailquik has pointed out again and again and I kept it out of that "dead zone" from 1000-2000. She drive pretty fine. LOD was low, but even on heavy acceleration, I couldn't get the MAP up above 30. Now remember, this is with it pretty empty. Me, my two sons, and a small trailer with two trash cans full of mulch. I sure wish I had spent some time watching my scanguage when it was running right.
I think the long, hard drive to SprinterFest East managed to force some turbocharged air out of that loose ring at the intercooler because it's pretty oily right around that spot.
I'm still looking for ideas as to what could cause my loss of power ONLY between 1000-2000 RPMs. Anyone have any thoughts? Simple but honest Question have you used [A] Upper cylinder lubricants, or [B] ever done an engine flush prior to an oil change? the differences in smooth operation if regularly performed is outstanding, especially with fuel economy.
Richard

MillionMileSprinter
07-27-2011, 02:29 AM
Simple but honest Question have you used [A] Upper cylinder lubricants, or [B] ever done an engine flush prior to an oil change?
Richard
Nope. Only had the van for about 3000 miles and I changed the oil when I first got it.
What do you recommend for upper cylinder lubricant?
Thanks.:thumbup:

Aqua Puttana
07-27-2011, 02:30 AM
Lack of boost may do that? I have not studied your previous posts.

Have you taken the hose off the turbo and checked that it spins freely?

Have you checked that the vane linkage moves properly? They have been known to get sticky.

Have you checked that the vacuum hose to your turbo actuator is intact? They have been known to deteriorate.

Is your vacuum system operating properly? No leaks?

Reports indicate that leaks in the boost hoses are sometimes difficult to find. It may be worth double checking. Have you carefully checked the charge air cooler?

You really should follow up and figure out why your DAD doesn't like you. It can be a great tool.

Good luck. vic
Update:
Drove it to work today shifting manually. Kept my RPMs up like Sailquik has pointed out again and again and I kept it out of that "dead zone" from 1000-2000. She drive pretty fine. LOD was low, but even on heavy acceleration, I couldn't get the MAP up above 30. Now remember, this is with it pretty empty. Me, my two sons, and a small trailer with two trash cans full of mulch. I sure wish I had spent some time watching my scanguage when it was running right.
I think the long, hard drive to SprinterFest East managed to force some turbocharged air out of that loose ring at the intercooler because it's pretty oily right around that spot.
I'm still looking for ideas as to what could cause my loss of power ONLY between 1000-2000 RPMs. Anyone have any thoughts?

Altered Sprinter
07-27-2011, 03:19 AM
Nope. Only had the van for about 3000 miles and I changed the oil when I first got it.
What do you recommend for upper cylinder lubricant?
Thanks.:thumbup: Simply put a precursor for the longevity of your engine.

I did note; purchase my van new in 2005.The van was an experiment so I always used an upper-cylinder non alcohol based additive Redline R2, three cap-fulls per tank, ion doing so the fuel has been kept free of impurity's and has assisted towards an internal assist towards keeping moving parts lubricated, and free of most carbon type build-up's of hard cocked carbonation especially, with hi pressure fuel pumps, injectors, and the glow plug burn etc.

The cost is negotiable $$$ over the years, as little is used.

Oil changes as to fuel types that vary over the seasons and years. every second oil change I have used an engine flush in OZ Nulon , or at both ends of the pond, Liqui Moly Engine Flush Plus, The product is added to a normal operating temperature engine pre-set at no less than 50 C for 15 minutes on idle before draining the oil.

all contamination sludge build up is taken away especially with freeing up oil pick up pumps This assists towards reducing oil top ups between oil changes, prevents blocks of oil screens, oil filters, and oil bores causing lubrication loss and or reducing bore damage on the piston crowns, and rings, and side bore walls.etc.

On a recent trip I just completed a 12 hr run with a medium load range on all terrain rods returning just under 600 miles with 20 gallon s US of fuel..I can achieve higher fuel returns but no ton this particular route.

Prior to the trip a full 250 Mil of Liqui Moly Diesel Anti-Knock Plus fuel enchantment was added to the fuel the end results are are smother running engine, with less chatter, the van need this program as to age six and half years on the road used full time. The above or similar additives are proven to maintain an engines longevity resulting in my case zero mechanical issues and no LHM ever recorded.

On the following morning -4c cold, real cold Brrrrr' with an iced windscreen the van instantly stated with ignition on start, for the first time a distinct white cloud of condensation blew from the exhaust, and cleared within 30 seconds removing what ever residue the fuel cleaners had deposited from the turbo back to the tip rear end of the exhaust, the six hour run back to home base, the temperature gauge remained at 70c 10c below the maximum of 80c the engine was exceptionally quieter and running almost like a gas engine.
Its worth considering for longer term usage of the Sprinters life span.
The above may not have anything to do with your engine stumble of course ,my point is I've never had the problems the NAFTA vans experience.
Richard
Al products are available in the United States ....They are not expensive.
35535

MillionMileSprinter
07-27-2011, 07:23 PM
Lack of boost may do that? I have not studied your previous posts.
Have you taken the hose off the turbo and checked that it spins freely?
Have you checked that the vane linkage moves properly? They have been known to get sticky.
Have you checked that the vacuum hose to your turbo actuator is intact? They have been known to deteriorate.
Is your vacuum system operating properly? No leaks?
Reports indicate that leaks in the boost hoses are sometimes difficult to find. It may be worth double checking. Have you carefully checked the charge air cooler?
You really should follow up and figure out why your DAD doesn't like you. It can be a great tool.
Good luck. vic
Thanks for the ideas. Turbo, huh? That's one area of my Sprinter that I haven't had to deal with yet. No time like the present. I've got the '03 service manual download and I was looking at that this morning, so I'll start by checking the vacuum lines and greasing the linkage.
How would I check my intercooler (charge air cooler) without removing it?
Yup, the few times my DAD worked I loved it. I would be happy if it worked half of the time. Right now, it's batting 2 for 10.
I've been over the DAD postings again and again. It feels like I've tried every combination known to the Sprinter Forum. And yes, I have an old school laptop with a serial port, not a USB adapter. :shifty:
Thanks again. :thumbup:

MillionMileSprinter
08-03-2011, 01:46 AM
Couple hundred miles later....
Still have the same problem.
My LOD is a little high, and my MPG is a little low, but the MAP seems be ok. Overall, nothing really strange.
Still a "stumble", now it seems to be right around 1800-2200 RPMs.
If I gently apply the throttle, it stumbles at that spot in every gear.
If I halfway floor it, the engine zooms right through the stumble, but hits it when the tranny upshifts and brings the RPMs down to ~2000. Flooring it all the way produces the same results. I've been shifting manually to avoid the stumble spot. Up to 3000 RPMs, shift, down to 2500... and so on.
I checked all my turbo hoses again. I took them off and visually inspected them. Then I put them back on, put my van in drive, pulled the Ebrake and chocked the wheels. Then I had my son revv up to 2000 RPMs and I checked for holes or tears in the hoses and clamps. NOTHING. I checked the vacuum. It produces about 20lbs at idle, but it bumps up and down by a pound or two. Is this normal?
I hooked up a hose to the vacuum actuated turbo lever thing and sucked... hard. (no jokes, please :professor:) The lever moved down about an inch. I pushed the lever with my finger and it was hard to move, but it did move and it didn't stick. I blew on the tube and what looked like tranny fluid or power steering fluid seeped out of the diaphragm.
How hard should the lever be to move?
What LBS of vacuum is needed to move it?
Should there be fluid in the diaphragm?
I pulled out my air filter and filter box, looking for obstructions. Nothing. Everything looked totally normal, like it should. No cracks or holes or oil seeping out anywhere.
ARRRRRGGGGGGG:bash: Then I put it all back together and took her for a drive. She was still the same...
I also spent about 2 hours troubleshooting my DAD. Went over every pin out on the OBD II, and the only weird thing I could find was that in the DAD manual, it said that pin #1 was supposed to be ground, but on my pins, #s 3 and 4 are the grounds.
Other than that, the comper recognized the cable, but kept saying there was a communication error and that I should check both ends of the cable. I tried every combination of plug-unplug-turn off- turn on I could think of, but still nothing. And the most angering part is that I hooked my van up to another DAD just last weekend and it worked perfectly. It just hadn't gone into LHM at that point, so I don't think any of the codes are worthwhile to read. Lemme look for the paper SEANS wrote them down on and I will post them in another post.
I was reading the "possible LHM causes" thread, but nothing jumped out at me.
Anyone else have any ideas? :thinking:

schwarzwaldsprinter
08-03-2011, 02:45 AM
Hello,
I encounter the same problems:shifty: on my 2004. It seems to be worse when it is hot outside. It was about 108 today and I had the same symptoms. Step gently on the throttle and it feels like LHM, step on it a bit harder and all is fine. I truly suspect a sensor to be the culprit. I did not had time yet to check with my DAD, but are following this thread with great expectations. I may have time tomorrow to hook up the DAD and will report my findings. I know I did not have any codes about 3 weeks ago. So we will have to see. If it would be the boost related it would put you in LHM permanently until restart.

Sven

MillionMileSprinter
08-03-2011, 05:18 AM
Hello,
I encounter the same problems:shifty: on my 2004. It seems to be worse when it is hot outside. It was about 108 today and I had the same symptoms. Step gently on the throttle and it feels like LHM, step on it a bit harder and all is fine. I truly suspect a sensor to be the culprit. I did not had time yet to check with my DAD, but are following this thread with great expectations. I may have time tomorrow to hook up the DAD and will report my findings. I know I did not have any codes about 3 weeks ago. So we will have to see. If it would be the boost related it would put you in LHM permanently until restart.
Sven

Oh yes yes yes. Finally someone who knows what I'm talking about! If you could please find a few minutes to stick the DAD on your '04 and read the codes, I'd be eternally grateful. :bow:
I got mine to go into LHM by driving in 1st up a loooooonnnnnnggggg, steep hill in high outside temps and a full van. If you intentionally put your van into LHM and then read the codes, you might find something useful. I would do it, if I had a DAD that worked.
I also think that it's heat related. It doesn't seem to do it when I first start up in the morning, or at least not as bad. I wonder if running the DAD once the motor is hot might help, also.
How are your injectors? I meant to do the injector run-off test after the motor was HOT today, but ran out of time. Maybe I can find some time tomorrow...
THANKS! I so look forward to reading your results. :hugs:

glas1700
08-03-2011, 05:45 AM
Maybe I missed it, but I didn't see where you set the com port on your computer to match the DAD software, which can only be set from com 1 to com 4. If your computer com port is set for com 1 to 4 and the software matches, they should communicate.

Byron
07 Navion

MillionMileSprinter
08-03-2011, 01:50 PM
Maybe I missed it, but I didn't see where you set the com port on your computer to match the DAD software, which can only be set from com 1 to com 4. If your computer com port is set for com 1 to 4 and the software matches, they should communicate.
Byron
07 Navion

Thanks, Byron, but I did do that. I even tried the DAD using all of the available COM settings, just in case something was wonky inside my computer. No luck. :thinking:

autostaretx
08-03-2011, 04:52 PM
Joel in Philly
Heck... you're close enough... amble over to Dr Andy's and let him kick it around
(we know he's got a PC that'll speak with DADs, and he's got a DAD that can be tested against your PC)

That's what i'd try.

--dick

MillionMileSprinter
08-03-2011, 06:11 PM
Heck... you're close enough... amble over to Dr Andy's and let him kick it around
(we know he's got a PC that'll speak with DADs, and he's got a DAD that can be tested against your PC)
That's what i'd try.
--dick
:thumbup: I emailed him last night and he sent me his address this morning.
I'm actually going to be about an hour from him in two weeks, so if I haven't got this whole mess figured out with my van by then, I'll be stopping in for a visit....
... BTW, a five hour drive isn't an "amble":smilewink:

schwarzwaldsprinter
08-03-2011, 08:45 PM
Oh yes yes yes. Finally someone who knows what I'm talking about! If you could please find a few minutes to stick the DAD on your '04 and read the codes, I'd be eternally grateful. :bow:
I got mine to go into LHM by driving in 1st up a loooooonnnnnnggggg, steep hill in high outside temps and a full van. If you intentionally put your van into LHM and then read the codes, you might find something useful. I would do it, if I had a DAD that worked.
I also think that it's heat related. It doesn't seem to do it when I first start up in the morning, or at least not as bad. I wonder if running the DAD once the motor is hot might help, also.
How are your injectors? I meant to do the injector run-off test after the motor was HOT today, but ran out of time. Maybe I can find some time tomorrow...
THANKS! I so look forward to reading your results. :hugs:


Okay - just got done checking with DAD for codes, but none are stored.
I still think that the intake air temp. sensor may be the cause, giving briefly funky readings. I left the DAD hooked up and will monitor the live data stream while driving home tonight and will report the findings.

Sven

MillionMileSprinter
08-04-2011, 04:46 AM
I just changed my intake air temp sensor a few weeks ago.... before this stumble started happening, so I don't think it's that. Sure, it could be faulty, but probably not.
It was cooler here today (80's), and I really didn't notice the stumble as much. I even stopped manually shifting for the most part.
That *would* suggest the air temp sensor....
Any more info from your DAD?
I just found a friend who is going to lend me his old laptop with a serial port and I'm going to install the DAD software on it and see if my problem isn't my computer. If that doesn't work, I'm mailing my DAD to Andy. He suggested I do that rather than wait and bring it to him when I'm near him in two weeks.
Keep me posted.
THANKS! :thumbup:

schwarzwaldsprinter
08-04-2011, 03:03 PM
I just changed my intake air temp sensor a few weeks ago.... before this stumble started happening, so I don't think it's that. Sure, it could be faulty, but probably not.
It was cooler here today (80's), and I really didn't notice the stumble as much. I even stopped manually shifting for the most part.
That *would* suggest the air temp sensor....
Any more info from your DAD?
I just found a friend who is going to lend me his old laptop with a serial port and I'm going to install the DAD software on it and see if my problem isn't my computer. If that doesn't work, I'm mailing my DAD to Andy. He suggested I do that rather than wait and bring it to him when I'm near him in two weeks.
Keep me posted.
THANKS! :thumbup:


I am on the road right now and have the DAD hooked up while driving. No problems with van and all data is good too. But it is only about 85 right now. Last night on my short drive home I did not have any problems as well. We will have to see how the drive back will go.

Sven

MillionMileSprinter
08-04-2011, 05:26 PM
Sven,
when you say "no problems", do you mean no codes were being sent out to the ECU or do you mean that there was no hesitation/loss of power at the ~2000 rpm range?
I have a funny suspicion it's my injectors. I have two that are on their way out, and I wonder if both of them, operating at less than 100% could cause this problem. When I had one injector bad, it was REALLY bad, and it caused my engine to shut off in 100 degree + temps.
So with two that are going bad, combined with the warmer temps...
I just happen to have an extra new injector in my garage, so I'm toying with the idea of replacing the worst of the two bad injectors.
My buddy with the serial port laptops just called me and said that none of them are functional right now, so that option is gone.
Looks like I'll be sending my DAD to Andy. Hopefully he finds something wrong with it. If not, looks like it's off to the stealership for me.
THANKS SO MUCH.
:thumbup:

MillionMileSprinter
08-04-2011, 09:53 PM
Here are two photos of my leak off test with the engine HOT:
Any thoughts? #5 looks the worst, but it's not much worse than #3 or #4. #2 was just replaced a month ago, but it was obviously bad (search for previous posts and you will find my photo of it).

schwarzwaldsprinter
08-05-2011, 01:23 PM
Sven,
when you say "no problems", do you mean no codes were being sent out to the ECU or do you mean that there was no hesitation/loss of power at the ~2000 rpm range?
I have a funny suspicion it's my injectors. I have two that are on their way out, and I wonder if both of them, operating at less than 100% could cause this problem. When I had one injector bad, it was REALLY bad, and it caused my engine to shut off in 100 degree + temps.
So with two that are going bad, combined with the warmer temps...
I just happen to have an extra new injector in my garage, so I'm toying with the idea of replacing the worst of the two bad injectors.
My buddy with the serial port laptops just called me and said that none of them are functional right now, so that option is gone.
Looks like I'll be sending my DAD to Andy. Hopefully he finds something wrong with it. If not, looks like it's off to the stealership for me.
THANKS SO MUCH.
:thumbup:


Well, when I drove back to the office yesterday it was about 10:30am and 95 degree. I had no power loss occurrences at all, and no indications on the DAD of any abnormalities. When I left the office last night at about 6:30 I had to take care of some stuff before going home. Of course I did not hook my laptop. Guess what about half way on may run the power loss incidents started. :bash::bash::bash:
It was 107 degrees outside. I could slap myself for not having my laptop with me:idunno:

So for me it is clear that it is heat related - but I have to retry and wait for the next time to find out what the DAD will tell me.

Sorry that I have no better news.

Sven

MillionMileSprinter
08-05-2011, 02:32 PM
Interesting... my power loss is constant. It gets a little better with the cooler air, but never goes away completely.
Of course it had to happen when you didn't have the DAD hooked up!
No big deal. Keep me posted when you get more info.
We have just learned to live with it until I get my DAD fixed/running properly.
Have you done the injector leakoff test like I did? When my #2 injector went bad, it never set off the MIL or threw a code. It just shut down the engine twice in a row. But from my testing, it was obviously bad. It's possible that you've got an injector(s) that's going bad, but aren't throwing any codes. That's the direction I'm leaning, but I've been wrong before...
Keep me posted.:thumbup:

Aqua Puttana
08-05-2011, 03:54 PM
Here are two photos of my leak off test with the engine HOT:
Any thoughts? #5 looks the worst, but it's not much worse than #3 or #4. #2 was just replaced a month ago, but it was obviously bad (search for previous posts and you will find my photo of it).
Aren't there acceptable parameters listed for the official test using the fancy Sprinter test calibrated vials? Maybe you can suck the fuel out of your hose with a calibrated syringe or squirt it into a calibrated beaker? Alternatively maybe add the max acceptable amount of fuel to one of the installed hoses and see where it lands? I have a couple syringes and calibrated beakers. :bash: Doesn't everyone? :rolleyes: (Actually it is from my wine making trials... and tribulations. :thumbdown:) vic

MillionMileSprinter
08-05-2011, 07:42 PM
Aren't there acceptable parameters listed for the official test using the fancy Sprinter test calibrated vials?
I don't know. I assume there are, but I don't know what they are. I was hoping someone on the forum would know. Andy probably would.
I've got a syringe... for administering baby medicine by mouth... looks like it will be re-classified and make it's way out of the kitchen and into my garage. :bounce: (I'll put a big black X on it or something to make sure it doesn't find it's way back into baby service).

MillionMileSprinter
08-06-2011, 03:02 PM
Andy just told me: 2.5 ml or more is considered unacceptable.
Visually, #3 and #5 injectors are looking suspect.:shifty:
I'll measure them today and post my results.

MillionMileSprinter
08-10-2011, 12:20 PM
#5 was the worst, right at 2.5ml. So I replaced it. Took me less than 20 minutes start to finish and the dead spot at ~2000rpms is 90% gone. WooHoo! I'm ordering more injectors from Wayne and #3 is next on my list. Thanks for all the suggestions! :thumbup:

PSH877@GMAIL.COM
10-24-2012, 08:28 AM
Thanks for the ideas. Turbo, huh? That's one area of my Sprinter that I haven't had to deal with yet. No time like the present. I've got the '03 service manual download and I was looking at that this morning, so I'll start by checking the vacuum lines and greasing the linkage.
How would I check my intercooler (charge air cooler) without removing it?
Yup, the few times my DAD worked I loved it. I would be happy if it worked half of the time. Right now, it's batting 2 for 10.
I've been over the DAD postings again and again. It feels like I've tried every combination known to the Sprinter Forum. And yes, I have an old school laptop with a serial port, not a USB adapter. :shifty:
Thanks again. :thumbup:
Thanks for your posting. Would you share where you got the 03 service manual on line? Just bought mine with 36k miles and having several issues - hesitating, tran shifting, rear diff leaking. Thanks for any help you can share. psh877@gmail.com. Phillip

autostaretx
10-24-2012, 05:59 PM
The 2003 service manual is here: http://aie-services-2.net/Sprinter/05%20service%20manual.pdf
(yes, i KNOW the file name starts "05", but it really really is the 2003 manual)

Many other helpful documents are at that server: http://aie-services-2.net/Sprinter/

(my similar loss of power was due to intermittent opening of the Q4 resonator's seam)
During the "limp" phase, the ScanGauge reported that MAP was not exceeding about 17 psi.
(the Sprinter would stop trying to use the turbo after the first blip of pressure-drop under 99% LOD.
If i kept the LOD (and MAP) down a bit, (85% max, 29 psi max) the symptoms would not happen

--dick

lindenengineering
10-27-2012, 03:07 AM
Simple but honest Question have you used [A] Upper cylinder lubricants, or [B] ever done an engine flush prior to an oil change? the differences in smooth operation if regularly performed is outstanding, especially with fuel economy.
Richard


Richard
I will second that.
Its always a recommendation to the customer once we have seen 100K on the clock.
I use specialist BG products for both diesel and gasoline (pet'rol) engines.
If its failed its e test I grab these products first.
Dennis

lightwave
10-27-2012, 04:39 PM
Which BG products have you used with success? I don't wish to experiment if I can help it

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2006 2500 118wb standard roof cargo 107,000