Delayed brake job

I was doing the front brakes on my 08 Sprinter following Piper1's write-up and all was well.

Finished one wheel and started on the next only to be defeated by the rotor hold down screw.

Why they use such a small headed screw and have it tightened by an 800 pound guerilla is beyond me. I am going to have to drill it out and have two news coming on Tuesday. $1.47 each.

Back outside to put it back together. What a pain!

Can you post a picture of the fastener of woe?

-Jon

This is why every time I take the tires off, I loosen and lube the screw. They are awfully tiny to be exposed to that much heat.

Had this happen a bunch of times with Honda rotors in the 80's & 90's. Pick up a 3/8" hand impact wrench and they come out really easy with a small tap.

Make sure it's a small tap, because those are your wheel bearings you're hammering on.

One whack with a ball peaned hammer onto an impact driver loosens the screw, remember if there is rust creep into the thread re-apply a coating of thread locker the mild one of course. Tins and NCV both can be an issue. getting the nut off best done when the wheel is still hot.

The wheel was cold but so was the other one where I got it out. It was extremely tight also. In fact, I used a cheater bar on every fitting. Must be getting weak in my old age.

I will get a picture when I take it out next week.

Meantime, the brake pad warning light is no longer on so, we got that going for us!

Yes just finished the front brakes also on my 08 Sprinter also botched one rotor screw and drilled off the head to take off the rotor was able to grab what was left of the screw with a wise grip and turn it and get it out the screw is very difficult to drill out because it is hardened

My brake warning light did not go out after replacing both front brakes so wondering what is up with that? Maybe the rear brakes are doing it? Or maybe it needs to be reset? Is it expected to reset on it's own?

Mine wasn't on when I restarted the Sprinter. I would think it goes out automatically.

Providing your sensors are not down to the wire or removed they will go off. unless something else is odd in the mix like below minim rotor thickness Photos are not NCV but the principle is the same.

Thanks for the comments, having changed the brakes on the front and the alarm is still there I will go ahead and change the rear ones as well and see if the alarm clears

Got my problem screw take care of. This time I did tap the head a couple of times with a hammer and punch. I drilled out the head and using a #4 (10mm) Pro GraBit backed the screw out with no problems. I had bought a tool to compress the pistons but as these were new brake pads, there was no problem with that but at least I will have the tool for next time. For me other than this stripped out screw, pushing the pistons back was the hardest part of the brake job.

So the screw you're talking about is indicated as number one (1), the "locking bolt?"




(part of the instructions)

4. Install two lug studs (2) to secure the disc brake rotor when the locking bolt (1) is removed.
5. Remove the locking bolt (1) for the disc brake rotor (3).
6. Remove the two lug studs.
7. Remove the disc brake rotor (3).

What is used to drive that, a torx bit? T-what? T30?

-Jon

Yes, it is a T30. Mine was an old T30 and the "fins" were slightly bent - problem with a cheap tool.

If you try this at home you will need
•Nitrile gloves (or Lava soap)
•21 mm socket for the caliper bracket bolts
•5mm hex for the caliper screws
•T30 torx for the rotor screw
•Needle nose pliers for the warning sensors
•6mm box end for the warning sensors
•Large flat blade screw driver to pry pads open
•Rubber mallet for breaking the disk loose from the hub
•Wire bush for cleaning off rust
•Cheater bar (used to defeat the 800 pound guerrilla on all bolts and screws)
•Permatex® Ultra Disc Brake Caliper Lube