144" NCV3 cargo.. internal length

Does anyone know the distance from the back of the driver's seat to the rear doors on a 144" NCV3? (2007/2008)

I'm trying to figure out what length of a mountain sled will fit in it

129 3/8" is length of wood floor. There is an additional 2" or so between floor and rear doors. The drivers seat protrudes over floor at about 24" elevation several inches depending where you have the seat adjusted.

Will the distance between the real wheel-wells be a factor? There is less than 48" between the wheel wells of a 3500.

-Jon

From the rear base of the passenger seat
to the inside of the back door I measure:
137", 11feet 5 inches.(2008, 144, Cargo)

Hello all, I'm a wheelchair bound man who is designing my rv style Sprinter Mobility Vehicle. I am having a problem finding two specific dimensions. I have spent hours on this site, and even days all over the internet trying to locate this info.. Resurrecting this post from the dead seemed like a good idea...

I need to know the length from the b-pillars to the leading edge of the wheel wells. Then from the rear end of the wheel wells to the rear doors.

Thanks much, and I hope I can find this critical missing info through this.

edit: forgot to mention this would be on a 144"wb.

Cityracer,
Are you looking at a 2500 (single rear wheels) or a 3500 (dual rear wheels).
It makes a difference on the rear fender wheels.
Roger

I had posted this in another thread a while back. If you can work with x,y,z coordinates or just want a quick dimension it will work. It is from a laser scan. The scanner manufacturer has a program that turns the point clouds into "pixels" with 3D orientation for web collaboration. It will only work on Internet Explorer and needs the plug in listed below. You can move from scan head location to scan head location by clicking. You can zoom in and out and measure things. You can retrieve X,Y and Z coordinates. The web interface is actually cool, but, has a fragment of the total resolution. The scan cloud of just the van is 6.15 million points. Because of what it is, it isn't as accurate or has the density of the actual points.

Van site http://www.cpctruview.com/Sprinter/SiteMap.htm

IE plug in http://hds.leica-geosystems.com/en/Leica-TruView_63960.htm

I hope this helps!

Hey, thanks for getting back to me so quickly. This would be for a 2500 144 wb.

I usually use mozilla, so I have to download the plug in. Then work on the site you posted. I will post back as soon as I am finished going through it.

Thanks much guys.

Oh, my name is Christopher btw.

Hey, thanks for getting back to me so quickly. This would be for a 2500 144 wb.

I usually use mozilla, so I have to download the plug in. Then work on the site you posted. I will post back as soon as I am finished going through it.

Thanks much guys.

Oh, my name is Christopher btw.

ok, got the info and all worked out beautifully. It looks to be about 68" b~pillar to wheel well leading edge. Then another 8.5"from rear wheel well edge to d~pillar. This is great news for my designs, and I can't tell you how happy I am to have received the help.

Thank you all for helping not only in this thread, but in many many others I have read through. I hope everyone is having a great weekend.

Best,
Christopher

Great, sorry you had to use IE

Sportsmobile has 3 free options for doing a layout,
You can contact them, they will mail you a kit , or you can download the kit http://www.sportsmobile.com/2_dyo-sr.html , for the kit ,You Will Need to Supply
Scissors and removeable tape
or they have a nice, easy, simple, online design center http://sportsmobiledyo.com/dyo/Public/Frames.php ......Here is their galley of wheelchair accessible sprinters for some ideas on your build http://www.sportsmobile.com/3_handicapped_sr.html

There is a PDF drawing of a 144" WB at Orton DIY - Backgound. You also might want to look at Orton DIY - Floor.

Christopher: You want to download the "body builder's manual", which is Mercedes' bible on what's allowed (and what's not) in terms of Sprinter modifications.

Although you're not legally bound to follow its "rules", it *does* help avoid doing things like trying to run a securing bolt through the fuel tank and/or accidentally severely compromising the frame rail's strength.

Follow the links from this posting by Jon Caples: https://sprinter-source.com/forums/showthread.php?t=16289&highlight=body+builder

good luck
--dick

Hello all, I am sorry I missed the other responses months back. I was cruising through the threads today, when I saw them.
I am actually about 8 months into learning and planning my upcoming Sprinter. Sadly it's all in the planning stages while I wait out some personal health matters.
I am aware of Sportsmobile, and if I can do all I plan. They will put in a Penthouse for me. The interior I have designed myself and will purchase all major components minus the cabinet and a 6" raised platform that will need to be built. Beyond the penthouse, I am stepping pretty far from Sportsmobiles styles.
I also have some concerns about the material to be used when the build happens. I have been in contact with Creative Mobile Interiors who use a 14ply marine grade for their cabinets and such. They are my first choice at the moment while I am planning.
I actually have downloaded and studied "the body builders directive", as well as the "oem equipment ordering codes". I even have read the online "owners manual". Additionally I discovered and studied RV systems as a whole, then backtracked to my needs in my Mobility Sprinter. (I am second half life wheelchair bound) I hope I am an educated consumer now.
As I plan this out I continue to refine and simplify. I hope sooner then later I can start my build, and start sharing my hard studied plans with you all. All the best, until I pop in again.

Christopher,

A friend used CMI and the quality looked very good if too rich for my wallet.

I'm late to the discussion here but I did find it really useful to spend a half hour looking at and measuring a bare-bones cargo Sprinter at a dealership when I needed to plan. My particular need was to see where my L-track could be mounted on the sides, floor and roof. I'm a good visualizer but the real thing can't be beat sometimes.

The L-track system meant I could secure cabinets and other fittings on one inch multiples. That allowed me to fine tune a few spacings and helped whenever a redesign improved an item.

Others here have used 80/20 extrusions for similar reasons.

Not necessary if you get it completely right the first time!

Hey Geek,
My Buddy and I just got back from a 5500 mile 10 day trip on our bikes, I was in Grand Junction BMW/Hardly getting a replacement rear tourance and saw a newer Sprinter there with a bike on a rear hitch mount, was that you?, I looked around and before I knew it, the van was gone.
I saw the strips your thinking of putting on the van

Unfortunately it wasn't. Although I try and go biking out there as much as I can.. I've been too busy with ye ole' grind stone lately