locking the sprinter

72chevy4x4

Well-known member
the lock 'button' on the door itself can not be pushed down while the door is open and the electric lock button will not lock the doors while one door is open (as is the case if I walk out to the van to lock it while leaving the key inside the house). Did I miss something?
 

jdcaples

Not Suitable w/220v Gen
I'd just lock most of the doors with the central locking button and then lock the driver door with a turn of the ignition key in the handle.

Of course, this makes it really easy for you to use the remote key, which is probably a good, frequent test anyway.


-Jon
 

Krenovian

Member
I've been able to lock my van (2008 144" High Top) by manually locking the doors. I can exit through the drivers door and push the lock down and it will close and be locked. I cannot exit through the passenger side door and do this though. If I try this the door will not lock.

Curt
 

72chevy4x4

Well-known member
sometimes I'm looking for simplicity...remote range even with new batteries doesn't reach the van when parked at the garage-was only hoping for a workaround

one time I was able to get it to lock (~75' away) by holding the remote control to my chin...maybe it was dumb luck or I was the antenna
 

Düsseldorfer

New member
The key portion of the fob doubles as the antenna. Touch it to a large piece of metal while you hit the button (any bit of bare or plated metal, from a spoon to a storm door) and you will be amazed at the range you can get.
 

Froggy

Member
Help!

I have an 07 Sprinter 2500.

I can turn the door lock cores on the driver's door and back door with my key/FOB, but the doors will not lock or unlock.
Is there an electrical setting to make them work?

What must I do so that I can manually lock and unlock the vehicle if the vehicle battery should die or my FOB should die?

Thanks!
Larry
 

jdcaples

Not Suitable w/220v Gen
Help!

I have an 07 Sprinter 2500.

I can turn the door lock cores on the driver's door and back door with my key/FOB, but the doors will not lock or unlock.
Is there an electrical setting to make them work?

What must I do so that I can manually lock and unlock the vehicle if the vehicle battery should die or my FOB should die?

Thanks!
Larry
There is no electrical setting to make the vehicle (doors) lock or unlock with a twist of the key inserted into the driver side door; at least that I can tell from the service manual, the (dodge) factory scan tool, or the info available at www.sprintertekinfo.com.

Sprinters are like not a Japanese car - like my girlfriend's Nissan Xterra, which does what you're describing - it is what it is....

-Jon
 

220629

Well-known member
....
one time I was able to get it to lock (~75' away) by holding the remote control to my chin...maybe it was dumb luck or I was the antenna
Maybe if you wear one of these at the same time? The Altered Sprinter down under mind control shield comes as a free secondary benefit.

ManWearingTinFoilHat.jpg

:bounce:

vic
 

Froggy

Member
Vic, you are hilarious!!!!

Thanks Jon for your response. My problem is my key fob works fine, but the actual key will turn the door lock, but it will not open the drivers or rear door.

Found the problem. Looked into the back door issue this afternoon and discovered that a small plastic elbow had popped off the tumbler arm. I put it back on and it immediately popped off again. This 25 cent elbow is made of soft plastic and becomes distorted very quickly. DON'T use your key to lock and unlock the back door on a 2007 Sprinter. Reserve the key-in-the-door approach for that day when your fob is not opening any door and you need to get in the vehicle.

I'm sure everyone owning a 2007 (maybe later models) will eventually experience this problem because the plastic part is way too soft for the amount of pressure it has to exert to lock and unlock the door mechanism.

Jon, can you determine if the same elbow is used on the driver's door and if so, the part number? I can send a photo if necessary. It would be good to have a few elbows around because they will will not last long using the key in the driver's door and the rear door. The material is too soft.

Thanks!
Larry
 
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jdcaples

Not Suitable w/220v Gen
<snip>
Jon, can you determine if the same elbow is used on the driver's door and if so, the part number? I can send a photo if necessary. It would be good to have a few elbows around because they will will not last long using the key in the driver's door and the rear door. The material is too soft.

Thanks!
Larry
I spent 45 minutes looking for something that matched your description.

Post the photo.

I really need to see the part to be certain.

In the mean time, look at the attached parts list for the rear door locking system.

Call out the part number and I'll see if it's found on the front driver side door.

-Jon
 

Attachments

Froggy

Member
Hi Jon:

Thanks for taking time to chase this down.

The item number is 300 and it is titled "Link Rod." There really is no need to purchase the rod itself, but I guess MB doesn't want to sell the plastic elbow that goes on the end.

The amount of force needed to unlock the door latch is too much for the soft plastic elbow on the end of the link rod. I'm guessing that after a few dozen uses, the elbow becomes distorted and pops off the tumbler arm.

I did not take the driver's door apart today, but I would guess there is a similar configuration in that door. So, I'm guessing the plastic elbow in that door also distorted and popped off.

I'm going to use some heavy plastic and try making an elbow. I'm not so concerned about locking with a key as I am opening with a key.

Thanks so much for looking up the part! I would say, use the fob as much as possible! Only use a key when the fob won't work. :2cents:

Larry
 

Froggy

Member
Call out the part number and I'll see if it's found on the front driver side door.

-Jon
Hi Jon:

FYI...

I took the inside panel off of the driver's door to see what was wrong with my door lock. I found that the little link that connects the door lock core with the latching mechanism had popped off. For this reason, turning the key in the drivers door lock did nothing.

The little link (about 2 inches in length) that fell off has a plastic socket on both ends of a metal piece and each socket snaps over "a ball connector." This link connects the door lock with the latching mechanism at 90 degrees. The "hardness" of the plastic on the front door is much better than the rear door, however, in order to secure the plastic sockets over the ball connectors, there is a little flap that snaps over a small compression slit in the plastic. The tooth on the flap is very tiny and worse, the compression slit vertically aligns with any upward force when using the key. Therefore, that little flap will likely pop open in due time due to the plastic flexing and the key will not lock or unlock the vehicle.

Again, the moral of the story is to use the fob. Only use your key to lock or unlock the vehicle when all else fails. When it comes to using a key-to-open-the-door on an 07 2500, the driver's door and rear door locking systems are very weak. Both of mine failed before 30,000 miles. :thumbdown:

Larry
 

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