I'm noticing that my EGR valve is leaking a bit more oil than usual, and upon removal of the black plastic cover, I have another concern.
When I rotate the actuator arm, the piston (with roller) does not get smoothly pushed into the valve housing. Rather, it sort of cocks to one side and jams. If I help it along for the first few millimeters of travel, the actuator arm seems able to push the valve in the rest of the way.
That said, perhaps I am misinterpreting how the valve works? If there is a suction/vacuum that pulls the valve into the valve housing, then I can imagine the jamming won't occur, since the actuator arm is simply "allowing" the valve to move, and not actually pushing it, per se.
Lastly, I managed to find a used EGR valve with about 90,000 miles for $160. Would that be an acceptable replacement for my EGR valve with 350,000 miles? Granted, there are less miles, but if I can expect the same behavior and leaking from a 90,000 mile EGR valve, then perhaps I shouldn't bother.
Thanks!
When I rotate the actuator arm, the piston (with roller) does not get smoothly pushed into the valve housing. Rather, it sort of cocks to one side and jams. If I help it along for the first few millimeters of travel, the actuator arm seems able to push the valve in the rest of the way.
That said, perhaps I am misinterpreting how the valve works? If there is a suction/vacuum that pulls the valve into the valve housing, then I can imagine the jamming won't occur, since the actuator arm is simply "allowing" the valve to move, and not actually pushing it, per se.
Lastly, I managed to find a used EGR valve with about 90,000 miles for $160. Would that be an acceptable replacement for my EGR valve with 350,000 miles? Granted, there are less miles, but if I can expect the same behavior and leaking from a 90,000 mile EGR valve, then perhaps I shouldn't bother.
Thanks!