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View Full Version : 2011 Std.Alternator Only, No H.D./High Capacity Model?


TomH
10-09-2010, 11:43 PM
I am considering a Sprinter Sportsmobile, custom designed, with a battery bank of two to four 4D 200amp batteries. For that reason I am interested in an alternator that is both heavy duty and high output.

I have been reviewing all the Sprinter options with the Sprinter salesman @ the MB dealer in Rocklin, CA. He sold Sprinters @ the Dodge dealership for a number of years and transferred to the MB dealership when MBUSA took Sprinters back under their own badge, so he does have a lot of background. He tells me, and all the options printouts he has given me seem to confirm this, that only the standard alternator is available. Rather than an option for a heavy duty and/or high output/capacity alternator, there is an alternative to order the Sprinter with option N62: PTO at front bracket for additional alternator. Upon receipt of the vehicle, one can then purchase a second alternator from the local parts department and have the service department install it. Thus the vehicle can run with two alternators simultaneously. This seems quite unusual to me. Can anyone provide more details as to the accuracy of this or reasons for this? Thanks in advance.

Altered Sprinter
10-10-2010, 01:29 AM
I'll keep this brief it depends on your alternators currents draw; as to a USE X=Unknown.
You have an option in the U.S for pre-ordering a particular alternator 220amp plus aux alternators for a PTO,that can be used for multiple variants of operation, this entails a second optioning requirement high idle. Your Mercedes dealership can arrange for a retro fit if you ordered the PSM only. In saying this to override the can bus a separate pulse has to be found with additional relays incorporated as a stand-alone installation. In part you are limited, as to an automatic transmission for full PTO capability.
Richard

jdcaples
10-10-2010, 03:10 AM
The code for the 220 AMP alternator is/was M46.

Have your sales guy ask MB corporate if that code's been removed from the NAFTA options.

Alternatively, both you and Sportsmobile may contact the team at www.sprinter-engineeringcompliance.com (there's an email on the home page) and ask about the 220 AMP alternator option availability.


Let us know what you learn.

I suspect you'll find that Richard's correct: order the PSM and bracket, then have a dealership upfit the second alternator on your dime, outside the vehicle order. I've seen MB do similar things to their NAFTA SUVs.

-Jon

Mrdi
10-10-2010, 03:17 AM
It is my understanding that all the currently incoming US models come with the 220 alt as the standard. Those used to be special order and came with the extra battery for commercial applications.

TomH
10-10-2010, 06:09 AM
It is my understanding that all the currently incoming US models come with the 220 alt as the standard. Those used to be special order and came with the extra battery for commercial applications.

I'll have to ask the salesman to check into that. MBUSA currently has very little listed on its web site in the way of specs and options. The salesman says that it is purposely this way due to many changes in Sprinter options from '10 to '11 and to avoid confusion on the part of potential customers looking up specs online without the guidance of a salesperson.

If what used to be the upgraded alternator is now the standard alternator (220 AMP), and option N62 "PTO at front bracket for additional alternator" is for another of the same, it seems that would put considerable mechanical resistance on the engine, lower the fuel economy, and almost surely require either the manually adjustable high idle option, or more likely the non-adjustable high idle option. On the other hand, it certainly would give the ability to maintain both the main battery as well as an isolated house battery bank of two 4D batteries on a Sportsmobile conversion.

Thoughts and opinions?? Thanks.

Edit/Post Script/Afterthought: I wonder whether this power take off can be disengaged, and engaged only when needed for supplementary electrical power. If so, I wonder whether that would be manual like my tractor, or automatic electronically on demand. That would make sense for something like a refrigerated cargo (maybe an ice cream delivery truck) unit that did not have its own separate engine/generator/refrigerator.

P.P.S. I could be tempted to use this engine with two heavy duty alternators simply for electricity generation to run air conditioning while camping. In light of the thread recently running re. the near death of a Sprinter from idling (those pics of gunk buildup were gruesome), that doesn't seem a wise choice. Another afterthought, I wonder whether the electricity from these two alternators shares a common circuitry, or whether each is isolated: one for the standard system and the other totally for alternate supplementary application.

Altered Sprinter
10-10-2010, 07:13 AM
Fact: Body Builders guide current for the USA. this links to freightliner for a specif for Sprinter. The current V6 NCV V6 auto is limited as previously mentioned.
An increasing number of sprinter variants offer the PTO as an option on the standard transmission three of Model numbers for the manual trans are easy to obtain.
Generally one can match the PTO as well as the transmission ratio,to be able to run the required equipment at optimum engine [Programmable]characteristics,one should adapt the ratio of the PTO in such a way that the output of the PTO runs with approx 1000rpm.
The option code available fro the Governing speed control automatically compensates for the load in order to run the system over a wide range of rpm's,the generator itself runs with 3000rpm or alternatively 1500 rpm consistently.
Model variants: You are limited with a v6 and an the standard auto transmission,as previously mentioned on the Telma retarder thread. either one adapts an Allission transmission or a seven speed triponic transmission.
This has been shown via a pdf on the Telma thread.
Brackets are available for the three main transmissions via Dynawatt for compressors and generators for a 4x2 variant.for a 4 series sprinter onwards INCLUDING PART NUMBERS.USED ON A Mercedes SPRINTER.Alternative aftermarket variants are also available.
It's not a closed shop if you know where to look.
26968
Life starts with the electronics.
26969

Richard

Mrdi
10-10-2010, 03:30 PM
Just my thoughts as requested:
I would consult with Sportsmobile and see what the 220 standard alt could easily charge and limit electrical needs to that in combo with either solar or shore charge or a combination thereof. Taxing the Sprinter with idle intentions seems to lead to deleterious effects. Keep it as simple as possible, and allow it to run within the designed parameters.

jdcaples
10-10-2010, 03:52 PM
<snip>

If what used to be the upgraded alternator is now the standard alternator (220 AMP), and option N62 "PTO at front bracket for additional alternator" is for another of the same, it seems that would put considerable mechanical resistance on the engine, lower the fuel economy, and almost surely require either the manually adjustable high idle option, or more likely the non-adjustable high idle option.

<snip>

Thoughts and opinions?? Thanks.



Between 2007 and 2009, the Sprinter could not be ordered with both a 220 AMP alternator and the high-idle option. I don't recall anyone giving me a good, reason citing a control module or a wiring/electrical reason.

Make certain that you get some assurances and some mechanical/electrical reasons for a high output alternator being suddenly compatible with the high-idle option after three years of it being a "no-no."

One reason could very well be "Chrysler didn't know or care about the Sprinter enough to dig deep for info." I'd be fine with that.....


-Jon

Altered Sprinter
10-10-2010, 04:21 PM
Mrdi and Jon are correct: the standard 2010 Mercedes sprinter for a V6 auto runs a 14V/180 AMP
with a 12v ah AGM Absorbed Glass Matt battery.Optioning for a 220 amp requires a higher capacity battery including aux battery.
When ordering a secondary alternator, or bracketing for both an alternator +generator this is a separate order as the bracketing is for an uplifters fitment. usually arranged with an engineer via Mercedes Body builders portal. not the sales rep at your local MB yard in fact these units are normally supplied by a specialized builder for completion of a unit sold direct to the customer on a pre ordered SV design .
Why would you need such a massive bank of power for?
This is what can be done on the U.S.A side: modular rack and modular RF design,mobile power PTO system providing 7.5Kw continuous power.With a 1.4 CML 2 port telescopic tower antenna,95 cm C.Com V Sat Antenna 2 Msps 512 ksps or for higher Nat Sav com 100 GB fiber optic direct wif fi.
Mato-sat auto deploy DSS Antenna RFE U-Sat Monitoring multiple direct on screen visualization Live and data processing with video audio Sat cam +ancillary:thinking: I guess you just started a war,as a portable command base. :eek:
Richard

Diamondsea
10-10-2010, 04:40 PM
I question the need for the bigger alternator. I have a 2009 with the standard alternator, 210 amp hour house battery bank, a scan gage to measure van voltage, and an amp meter to measure charge current going into the house battery bank. I also note that the van has a 1000 watt electric heater that draws about 80 amps. This electric heater comes on automatically to help the van's heating system when first starting out on very cold mornings to get warm cabin air before the engine coolant is warm enough to do the job. I have noted that on very cold dark mornings with headlights and other accessories on, this big amp draw is still met by the alternator although the regulated voltage as measured by the scan gage is not up to its normal of about 13.6. It is often down to 13.1 or 13.2 until the boost electric heater cuts off. This is usually within a very few miles and then the engine coolant is warm enough. What this means is that the alternator can handle this extra 80 amp draw. Now I ask you what the expected charging current draw is going to be for your house battery bank? My 210 bank only draws about 25 amps after the initial surge of a minute or so. This is regulated by the internal resistance of the batteries. What I do is that after starting the van in cold weather is to wait a few minutes for the warm-up and the voltage to stabilize at 13.6 as shown by the scan gage. I then reach down to flip a high amp switch installed in the seat base and controllable below the hand brake. The standard alternator easily handles it. (If a switch is not reachable you can pull off to the side of the road to go reach a switch while engine idles for a few seconds then continue on.) I charge when driving. As previously often discussed on this forum long term idling at any speed is not good for any diesel that used exhaust gas recirculation to meet pollution requirements.

Altered Sprinter
10-10-2010, 04:42 PM
Between 2007 and 2009, the Sprinter could not be ordered with both a 220 AMP alternator and the high-idle option. I don't recall anyone giving me a good, reason citing a control module or a wiring/electrical reason.

Make certain that you get some assurances and some mechanical/electrical reasons for a high output alternator being suddenly compatible with the high-idle option after three years of it being a "no-no."

One reason could very well be "Chrysler didn't know or care about the Sprinter enough to dig deep for info." I'd be fine with that.....


-Jon Jon I'm sorry and with respect but your not correct as to Dodge or freightliner there was as is today direct communication with both private and government organizations in the N/A sector it's not public nor is this the domain of a dealership. Commercial contracts are done via MB in Germany as to a EU ISO directive. for both military,and civil for surveillance operations.
I can link both U.S pre 2006 Tin sprinters NCV and euro Australian sprinters using this application.
26980

26981
Part of the problem with civil operations today are emissions on idling for 2011. This is on your final emission standards for Cafe/Bin EPA 2012. that was stalled in September 2009.
Richard

TomH
10-10-2010, 05:40 PM
.....I would consult with Sportsmobile and see what the 220 standard alt could easily charge and limit electrical needs to that in combo with either solar or shore charge or a combination thereof. Taxing the Sprinter with idle intentions seems to lead to deleterious effects. Keep it as simple as possible, and allow it to run within the designed parameters.


I question the need for the bigger alternator. I have a 2009 with the standard alternator, 210 amp hour house battery bank, a scan gage to measure van voltage, and an amp meter to measure charge current going into the house battery bank. I also note that the van has a 1000 watt electric heater that draws about 80 amps. This electric heater comes on automatically to help the van's heating system when first starting out on very cold mornings to get warm cabin air before the engine coolant is warm enough to do the job. I have noted that on very cold dark mornings with headlights and other accessories on, this big amp draw is still met by the alternator although the regulated voltage as measured by the scan gage is not up to its normal of about 13.6. It is often down to 13.1 or 13.2 until the boost electric heater cuts off. This is usually within a very few miles and then the engine coolant is warm enough. What this means is that the alternator can handle this extra 80 amp draw. Now I ask you what the expected charging current draw is going to be for your house battery bank? My 210 bank only draws about 25 amps after the initial surge of a minute or so. This is regulated by the internal resistance of the batteries. What I do is that after starting the van in cold weather is to wait a few minutes for the warm-up and the voltage to stabilize at 13.6 as shown by the scan gage. I then reach down to flip a high amp switch installed in the seat base and controllable below the hand brake. The standard alternator easily handles it. (If a switch is not reachable you can pull off to the side of the road to go reach a switch while engine idles for a few seconds then continue on.) I charge when driving. As previously often discussed on this forum long term idling at any speed is not good for any diesel that used exhaust gas recirculation to meet pollution requirements.

Excellent points and questions. The SMB conversion would be on a 170" wb non-extended Sprinter. My house battery bank would be two, possibly three 4D batteries for either 400 or 600 AMP capacity. I would have the regular air conditioner as well as a 12,500 BTU a/c for the rear, in line on-demand water heater, microwave, 4 cu. ft. Isotherm refrigerator, roof mounted skylight-fan, and a few other small electrical items. At times we would have shore power, but at other times we would boondock. Along with the roof a/c and a small roof fan, we would place as many solar panels as would fit on the roof, though I anticipate times of boondocking under a forest canopy. I am still debating whether to have an installed generator running on diesel from the main fuel tank, an installed propane generator fueled from an installed undercarriage tank, a remote portable propane generator, a remote portable gas generator, or no generator at all. I do understand that running this engine at idle for extended periods is a very bad idea. I will talk further with SMB about the entire system. Thanks for your thoughts, and don't hesitate to add more.

K-9 SPRINTER
10-10-2010, 07:50 PM
The 220 alt IS standard on 2010 !!!!!!. My 2010 was ordered with NO accessory battery, I did get adjustable idle, and xtra bracket for AC compressor( goes on same place as 2nd alt) and yes the 220 alt is good enough to charge MY battery bank .... 3 /8D's (245amps ea):cheers:

TomH
10-10-2010, 09:47 PM
The 220 alt IS standard on 2010 !!!!!!. My 2010 was ordered with NO accessory battery, I did get adjustable idle, and xtra bracket for compressor( goes on same place as 2nd alt) and yes the 220 alt is good enough to charge MY battery bank .... 3 /8D's (245amps ea):cheers:

Outstanding. :rad: This is very helpful! Thanks!! :cheers:

Is this compressor for additional air conditioning?

K-9 SPRINTER
10-10-2010, 10:30 PM
Is this compressor for additional air conditioning?
Yes..... Its a 12v 32000 btu (yes, 32 THOUSAND) w/a 35000 btu heater http://proairllc.com/rear_mounted_evaporators.html model # 941

jdcaples
10-10-2010, 10:56 PM
Jon I'm sorry and with respect but your not correct as to Dodge or freightliner there was as is today direct communication with both private and government organizations in the N/A sector it's not public nor is this the domain of a dealership. Commercial contracts are done via MB in Germany as to a EU ISO directive. for both military,and civil for surveillance operations.
I can link both U.S pre 2006 Tin sprinters NCV and euro Australian sprinters using this application.


The Chrysler ordering system rejected my attempt to compose a vehicle with a 220 amp alternator and high-idle. I'm fine blaming US software for the mistake.

-Jon

PS: Just remembered this: When the sales guy called about it, he was referred to (by whom ever helped sales guys sell Sprinters) the Special Equipment Book (http://sprinter-source.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=2235&d=1182228930), these pages (attached)

He was told that a 220 volt generator actually was a 220 amp alternator.

d_bertko
10-11-2010, 12:10 AM
I've been doing fine with my 150a alternator for about 5 years now. It feeds a 420ah house bank. It rarely gets any help from the gen set and our drycamp style only gets us shore power about once a month. So with my all-electric kitchen the alternator gets plenty of work to do. No problems.

The van had a 90a alternator when I bought it used. The local Sprinter dealers at the time had never heard of the second alternator option and my auto-electric guy figured a custom bracket would be a pain. So I settled for the 150a upgrade after asking converters like Sportsmobile what their experience was with it.

I do agree that more alternator than you need will load down the engine considerably.

I have a Honda eu2000i because that seemed to be a good way to provide lots more kw-hrs. But I was surprised that I didn't really need it----the alternator alone was adequate for my needs.

Dan

TomH
10-11-2010, 12:30 AM
Yes.....(the a/c is) a 12v 32000 btu (yes, 32 THOUSAND) w/a 35000 btu heater http://proairllc.com/rear_mounted_evaporators.html model # 941

...MY battery bank .... 3 /8D's (245amps ea):cheers:

That's a big air conditioner. So I take it that is rear mounted? Is that in place of a window on a panel door? Is your Sprinter a motorhome? Where is your battery bank: suspended from the undercarriage, inside the van? Do you ever run that supplemental a/c from the house battery? (Hmmm...methinks that might not work if the compressor runs from a PTO on the main engine---compressor under the hood, unit on rear door, there must be a long coolant line buried in body somewhere???) If you can run from the house battery, how much time before it draws too many amps? Do you have a generator, solar to assist? Thanks for taking the time to answer all these questions. I greatly appreciate it.

TomH
10-11-2010, 12:37 AM
I've been doing fine with my 150a alternator for about 5 years now. It feeds a 420ah house bank. It rarely gets any help from the gen set and our drycamp style only gets us shore power about once a month. So with my all-electric kitchen the alternator gets plenty of work to do. No problems.

The van had a 90a alternator when I bought it used. The local Sprinter dealers at the time had never heard of the second alternator option and my auto-electric guy figured a custom bracket would be a pain. So I settled for the 150a upgrade after asking converters like Sportsmobile what their experience was with it.

I do agree that more alternator than you need will load down the engine considerably.

I have a Honda eu2000i because that seemed to be a good way to provide lots more kw-hrs. But I was surprised that I didn't really need it----the alternator alone was adequate for my needs.

Dan

When you camp, is it in hot/humid climate, and if so, do you use supplemental air conditioning? If yes, do you run the generator then? Thanks for your help.

d_bertko
10-11-2010, 02:14 AM
When you camp, is it in hot/humid climate, and if so, do you use supplemental air conditioning? If yes, do you run the generator then? Thanks for your help.

We live in New England. We camp year-round but just love the shoulder seasons. Plenty of control over when we go south. Lots of preference to sleep high in the mountains when the weather is hot.

The van is white, heavily insulated, and the microwave and mag-induction cooktop throw off very little waste heat compared to propane.

All of these factors seemed to make my DIY a borderline case for roof a/c. To make it worse, I am a white water canoeist and frequently put three canoes atop the walk-on roof rack. A real PITA to mount a roof unit.

So I thought I'd try a summer season without an a/c to at least get an idea of the btu requirements. I had already knocked down the heat btus to well within my little Airtronic D2's range---the cooling btu load should be less for a 30 degree drop.

Well, after five years I've given up on clever ways to install a seasonal 7000 btu house a/c. I just don't need an air conditioner. This summer featured a cross country trip across the upper half of the USA in July, Aug, Sept. Not our usual schedule. Several days watching the van thermometer reading 97 as we drove across badlands and desert. But no nights above the 80's due to luck with finding high camps.

My case is unusual in that my base location is cool and we have flexible vacation schedules. I think we've camped in over 40 states.

The usual solution for hot, moist camping is to install that roof unit. Most commercial van conversions are marketed for summer camping and the insulation is pretty minimal. Plus extra windows add a lot to the summer heat load. (I have three of eight possible windows in my cargo area) The upshot is that a single 11k roof units may be insufficient for the warmest bits of the South and Southwest. (A shame since I think you could design for 6000 btu cooling)

I have a single Honda eu2000i. Not for air conditioning, just available for longish stationary camps. The Honda 2000s are quiet and that size is pretty easy to carry. So a very popular a/c solution for drycampers is to buy two of them with a parallel kit to be able to start a standard roof unit. And of course you can skip one or both when its not hot and gain back the cargo capacity.

We get a lot of use out of our Fantastic Fan. On the hottest nights we slip our "back porch" over the open rear doors and that gives a 4x8 screened opening.

It is terrific to avoid the power requirements of air conditioning and to breathe cool fresh air instead. But sadly not an option for the majority of rv'rs.

Diamondsea
10-11-2010, 02:14 AM
To me, any generator is a pain in the axx. When boon docking I get by without air conditioning. Tow maxxair fans at either end of the roof (using the flat areas provided without raised ribs) one blowing in and the other exhausting keep a breeze moving through. When I am out on the road camping I am doing just that and get by without the air conditioning. I use a cooler with 2.5 inches of insulation for food/ice. I have an espar for heat in the winter nights and a 450 watt 115 vac one gallon hot water heater run off an inverter -- it sucks about 45 amps from the battery bank but for only 15 minutes to heat a tank of water. My 210 amp hour battery bank lasts 2 nights camping and is generally down about half way. Fluorescent lights, the espar, and other loads use very little. Refrigerators of any type suck power and eliminating them saves a huge amount of amp hours.

Altered Sprinter
10-11-2010, 04:25 AM
The Chrysler ordering system rejected my attempt to compose a vehicle with a 220 amp alternator and high-idle. I'm fine blaming US software for the mistake.

-Jon

PS: Just remembered this: When the sales guy called about it, he was referred to (by whom ever helped sales guys sell Sprinters) the Special Equipment Book (http://sprinter-source.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=2235&d=1182228930), these pages (attached)

He was told that a 220 volt generator actually was a 220 amp alternator.
The last sentence is double Dutch right as it is, the incorrect method of explaining the actual usage of the terminology. However..:rolleyes:
220 amp alternator,with high idle options! Lets just leave that standing as to this thread separating into two separate equations of generating a power-supply.
Lets be honest: it's for the pro's and it's high stakes in certain applications.
The prime energy source is a conventional vehicle alternator-a devise which -is designed to be mounted. N-62 N-63 PTO 6kVA 230 volt at tick over for a Mercedes Sprinter
27000
26999
27001
Available in 3,4 5kVA
Power up to 12kV two alternators are required,normally both alternators are chassis mounted with a separate PTO drive to transmit the engine power> Transmission 4 Mercedes variants.
The electronics enclosure stand alone unit controls the output power. of the alternator and or alternators.and convert this power into a highly regulated mains supply type electricity.
The throttle control {programmable governess] is interrogated to the PSM.
Te PSM manual body builders directive is quite specific in the applications
4.2 Engine only model 906
4.2.1 working speed control function.
4.2.3 Power take off function. Two basic but brief links as to the parametrized functions that activate the can bus via a single for awaking through pin locations, and voltage settings, including rpm, variable speeds for transmission ratios rpm's
27002
27003
The body Builders PSM manuals covers 2011 eev emissions. You are limited but it can be done, as to finding Australian, UK, and N/American alliances! A virual on line chit chat shop going on there sharing technology and sales, via Mercedes preferred partnerships of alternative non OEM equipment.
You have Sprinters operating in the USA with these applications.
A 220 amp would cover all applications for a RV even an 88Amp alt providing you use an appropriate matching aux microprocessor.
Any one for ice-cream, or emergency ambulances!... I'd better be careful, or SWAT.will take me out.:laughing:
Richard

K-9 SPRINTER
10-11-2010, 11:32 AM
That's a big air conditioner. So I take it that is rear mounted? Is that in place of a window on a panel door? Is your Sprinter a motorhome? Where is your battery bank: suspended from the undercarriage, inside the van? Do you ever run that supplemental a/c from the house battery? (Hmmm...methinks that might not work if the compressor runs from a PTO on the main engine---compressor under the hood, unit on rear door, there must be a long coolant line buried in body somewhere???) If you can run from the house battery, how much time before it draws too many amps? Do you have a generator, solar to assist? Thanks for taking the time to answer all these questions. I greatly appreciate it.
My sprinter is a motorhome/kennel with gen, and solar.(see my other posts)Batteries are undermount. The 12v AC evaporator is mounted inside,behind the pantry in the galley,the condenser is an undermount.It is a ducted system. Remember, this 12v AC runs off a seperate engine mounted compressor(in place of 2nd alternator), so it only works will driving,thus the reason for my 110v rooftop mounted 15000 btu AC, which is a ducted system also. As far as running my 110 AC, off the battery system,yes it can! As far as how long..... well 1 of the tests sportsmobile did was, to set the FREEDOM SW 3000 Sine Wave Inverter/Charger, to auto start the gen at 70% , the 110 AC ran for 2 hrs before the genset kicked in.All problems during testing my systems were with the due to the FREEDOM SW 3000 Sine Wave Inverter/Charger, which was switched out to a triplite unit. Again I have to say ...SPORTSMOBILE (texas):thumbup: was FANTASTIC in making sure I had a relieable 12v/110 system. Good luck in your build:cheers:

TomH
10-11-2010, 05:00 PM
My sprinter is a motorhome/kennel with gen, and solar.(see my other posts)Batteries are undermount. The 12v AC evaporator is mounted inside,behind the pantry in the galley,the condenser is an undermount.It is a ducted system. Remember, this 12v AC runs off a seperate engine mounted compressor(in place of 2nd alternator), so it only works will driving,thus the reason for my 110v rooftop mounted 15000 btu AC, which is a ducted system also. As far as running my 110 AC, off the battery system,yes it can! As far as how long..... well 1 of the tests sportsmobile did was, to set the FREEDOM SW 3000 Sine Wave Inverter/Charger, to auto start the gen at 70% , the 110 AC ran for 2 hrs before the genset kicked in.All problems during testing my systems were with the due to the FREEDOM SW 3000 Sine Wave Inverter/Charger, which was switched out to a triplite unit. Again I have to say ...SPORTSMOBILE (texas):thumbup: was FANTASTIC in making sure I had a relieable 12v/110 system. Good luck in your build:cheers:

Thanks so much! Your info is invaluable to me as I plan my SMB!! :cheers:

TomH
10-12-2010, 01:02 AM
We live in New England. We camp year-round but just love the shoulder seasons. Plenty of control over when we go south. Lots of preference to sleep high in the mountains when the weather is hot.

The van is white, heavily insulated, and the microwave and mag-induction cooktop throw off very little waste heat compared to propane.

All of these factors seemed to make my DIY a borderline case for roof a/c. To make it worse, I am a white water canoeist and frequently put three canoes atop the walk-on roof rack. A real PITA to mount a roof unit.

So I thought I'd try a summer season without an a/c to at least get an idea of the btu requirements. I had already knocked down the heat btus to well within my little Airtronic D2's range---the cooling btu load should be less for a 30 degree drop.

Well, after five years I've given up on clever ways to install a seasonal 7000 btu house a/c. I just don't need an air conditioner. This summer featured a cross country trip across the upper half of the USA in July, Aug, Sept. Not our usual schedule. Several days watching the van thermometer reading 97 as we drove across badlands and desert. But no nights above the 80's due to luck with finding high camps.

My case is unusual in that my base location is cool and we have flexible vacation schedules. I think we've camped in over 40 states.

The usual solution for hot, moist camping is to install that roof unit. Most commercial van conversions are marketed for summer camping and the insulation is pretty minimal. Plus extra windows add a lot to the summer heat load. (I have three of eight possible windows in my cargo area) The upshot is that a single 11k roof units may be insufficient for the warmest bits of the South and Southwest. (A shame since I think you could design for 6000 btu cooling)

I have a single Honda eu2000i. Not for air conditioning, just available for longish stationary camps. The Honda 2000s are quiet and that size is pretty easy to carry. So a very popular a/c solution for drycampers is to buy two of them with a parallel kit to be able to start a standard roof unit. And of course you can skip one or both when its not hot and gain back the cargo capacity.

We get a lot of use out of our Fantastic Fan. On the hottest nights we slip our "back porch" over the open rear doors and that gives a 4x8 screened opening.

It is terrific to avoid the power requirements of air conditioning and to breathe cool fresh air instead. But sadly not an option for the majority of rv'rs.

I want to thank you for responding with such an extensive post. I appreciate the time you took to compose all this. The information and opinions will be very helpful as I plan my SMB Sprinter.

I lived in your part of the country for a little while, just outside Stowe for a couple of years in the mid 80s. Ben and Jerry's was a local delicacy in those days. Miss the fall colors, but not the long gloomy winters and mud season. I also used to canoe a lot too, lots of canoe camping on class 1 to low 2 rivers and ran whitewater in C2 opens with flotation up to high 3s low 4s.

Thanks again for your reply. Would love to see pics of your rig.

russi49728
10-14-2010, 08:43 PM
Between 2007 and 2009, the Sprinter could not be ordered with both a 220 AMP alternator and the high-idle option. I don't recall anyone giving me a good, reason citing a control module or a wiring/electrical reason.

Make certain that you get some assurances and some mechanical/electrical reasons for a high output alternator being suddenly compatible with the high-idle option after three years of it being a "no-no."

One reason could very well be "Chrysler didn't know or care about the Sprinter enough to dig deep for info." I'd be fine with that.....


-Jon

I have a 2008 with both the 220 amp alternator and the the adjustable idle control. I special ordered it that way.

russi49728
10-14-2010, 08:52 PM
My sprinter is a motorhome/kennel with gen, and solar.(see my other posts)Batteries are undermount. The 12v AC evaporator is mounted inside,behind the pantry in the galley,the condenser is an undermount.It is a ducted system. Remember, this 12v AC runs off a seperate engine mounted compressor(in place of 2nd alternator), so it only works will driving,thus the reason for my 110v rooftop mounted 15000 btu AC, which is a ducted system also. As far as running my 110 AC, off the battery system,yes it can! As far as how long..... well 1 of the tests sportsmobile did was, to set the FREEDOM SW 3000 Sine Wave Inverter/Charger, to auto start the gen at 70% , the 110 AC ran for 2 hrs before the genset kicked in.All problems during testing my systems were with the due to the FREEDOM SW 3000 Sine Wave Inverter/Charger, which was switched out to a triplite unit. Again I have to say ...SPORTSMOBILE (texas):thumbup: was FANTASTIC in making sure I had a relieable 12v/110 system. Good luck in your build:cheers:

Which model Triplite did you go with? My Magnum Energy inverter will not start my rooftop A/C.

Happy
10-19-2010, 12:13 AM
with the Sprinter salesman @ the MB dealer in Rocklin, CA. He sold Sprinters @ the Dodge dealership for a number of years and

Hey I bought a big white van from that dude!
Say Hi to Loren for me! (me=Todd)

TomH
10-19-2010, 01:00 AM
Hey I bought a big white van from that dude!
Say Hi to Loren for me! (me=Todd)

Yup, he's the guy. I was about to email him, so I will say, "Hi from Todd."

K-9 SPRINTER
10-19-2010, 01:08 AM
Which model Triplite did you go with? My Magnum Energy inverter will not start my rooftop A/C.
http://www.tripplite.com/en/products/model.cfm?txtSeriesID=820&txtModelID=3136 Not happy about not being able to use the FREEDOM SW 3000, as the tripplite does not have the functions or programability I want and need